British Fashion Council Launches China Partnerships Strategy in Shanghai with Ambassadorial President David Beckham

What has David Beckham been up to in Shanghai this week?
For one thing, he's been helping the British fashion industry to break into the vast Chinese market.
So Victoria is not the only one with global fashion credentials in the Beckham camp these days.

In his new role as the British Fashion Council’s (BFC) Ambassadorial President, David Beckham has launched the organisation’s China Partnerships Strategy supported by Stephanie Phair, BFC Chair; Dylan Jones, BFC Chair of Menswear and Caroline Rush, BFC Chief Executive.

The strategy was launched at a lunch attended by existing and potential new key partners, invited by the BFC and Mr Beckham. Guests included Xia Ding, President of JD International Fashion; Paul David Haouzi, President & Executive Director Trinity Group; Claire Chung, China General Manager Yoox Net-A-Porter, Patrick Tsang, Chairman Tsang Group and Judy Liu, Managing Director China Farfetch.

The lunch, hosted at The Middle House Shanghai confirmed £500,000 worth of deals including JD.com and Ruyi’s co-sponsorship of the BFC/GQ Designer Menswear Fund, JD.com’s support for the BFC/Vogue Designer Fashion Fund and support from Britain’s Department of International Trade.  In addition to deals done, the BFC continue to explore the next stage of their innovative partnership with VIP.com and their long-term partnership with Fung Retailing Group.

The development of the BFC’s China Fashion Business Network is a key pillar of development for the next 12 months, and many attendees at the lunch pledged their support to assist the BFC create a network of credible partners across investment, licensing, manufacturing, property, communications and retail in China.  As Stephanie Phair, BFC Chair commented: “China has always been a key market for British designers, from emerging businesses to established brands. There is a growing appetite for British fashion in China."

David Beckham, BFC Ambassadorial President said: “Promoting the British fashion industry in China is an important part of my new role with the British Fashion Council. I hope that through events like today we are able to shine a light on the incredible creative talent we have in the UK and promote that talent on a global scale. The opportunity in China for connecting creatively and driving investment into British fashion is huge. Today we are able to show real commitment from Chinese businesses to future fashion leaders in the UK and in parallel, share our experience, knowledge and platforms with emerging Chinese designers.”

The BFC’s China Partnerships Strategy is focused on three key areas and solidifies the organisation’s commitment to making access to the Chinese market easier for British designer businesses: 

Support for emerging talent with mentoring on the Chinese market Partnerships of Fashion Weeks; stimulating demand through content and access, in relevant cases supplying that demand through retail partnerships in the UK and China.Network development of investors, creatives, influencers, media, retailers and high-net worth individuals to partner with British designer businesses on local growth strategies.

At the lunch hosted by BFC Ambassadorial President David Beckham at The Middle House Shanghai, a Memorandum of Understanding was signed by Dylan Jones, BFC Chair of Menswear and Editor of British GQ, Caroline Rush, BFC Chief Executive, Xia Ding, President of JD International Fashion and Francis Srun, Executive President of Ruyi International Group that confirms funding, mentorship and additional opportunities to develop partnerships for the shortlisted designers into China.

Xia Ding, President of JD International Fashion said: “The UK is now increasingly recognized by Chinese people as a global fashion centre and JD is proud to serve as the most convenient channel for British designers to reach China’s many discerning fashion consumers.”

Francis Srun, Executive President of Ruyi International Group commented: “Aside from a range of joint initiatives in offline retail and e-commerce, Ruyi’s extensive collection of global brands are already working closely with JD and we are confident that this network will give a strong boost to designers supported by the BFC/GQ Designer Menswear Fund.”

The BFC/GQ Designer Menswear Fund is the UK’s biggest menswear prize for emerging talent.  The prize was established in September 2013 following the success of the BFC/Vogue Designer Fashion Fund providing one designer with a £150,000 grant to provide necessary infrastructure to take them to the next stage of their business and significant value in kind services as part of a bespoke, high level mentoring support programme over a twelve-month period.

Craig Green for Moncler, unveiled in Milan for 2018-19.

Dylan Jones, BFC Menswear Chair and Editor of British GQ, commented: “We are delighted to re-instate the BFC/GQ Designer Menswear Fund thanks to JD.com Inc. and Ruyi who have committed to two years of support for our brilliant emerging menswear designers.

The last British designer to win the BFC/GQ Designer Menswear Fund was Craig Green, a talent and business that has gone from strength to strength.”

Rado announces the winner of Rado Star Prize UK

David Knowles named winner of the Rado Star Prize UK

The various shows and events including designjunction that marked this September’s London Design Week have come to a close but for one designer, his design journey continues after winning a prestigious prize from the Swiss watch maker Rado.

This year, a panel of distinguished judges have awarded the second edition of the Rado Star Prize UK to David Knowles who impressed the judges with his entry “GC18” – a coffee table inspired  by  the   Giant’s Causeway in Northern Ireland, a unique landscape of stunning natural beauty. 

The inspiring place features interlocking hexagonal columns of ancient black basalt staggering out of the ocean, forging a majestic pathway of multi-faceted levels.

Knowles’ GC18   coffee  table responds  to  that landscape’s  aesthetic elements resulting in a furniture piece that is tactile, intriguing and thought-provoking; consequently inspiring mindfulness. 

“It has been a great opportunity to showcase my design at Rado Star Prize UK.  I am honoured to  win  the award, especially to have been judged by a panel I admire  so much.  I hope  this  will  be  the  start  of  setting  up  my  design  career”  comments David Knowles,  winner  of  Rado  Star  Prize  UK  2018. 

Knowles, a  3D  Design  student  from Northumbria University received £5,000 and a True Thinline Plasma as a prize for his winning project. GC18 was selected from a shortlist of ten designs, with each entry responding  to  the  theme  ‘On  Time/Time  Off’.

David Knowle, left, with Hakim El Kadiri, Bethan Gray
and Will Sorrell.

 The  theme  explores  the  concept  of passing  time,  enriching  life,  and  products  that  enhance  user’s  awareness  of  where they spend their time. 

Rado CEO Matthias Breschan commented: “The creativity and thought present in this year’s Rado Star Prize UK entries is very impressive. I am pleased that Rado can help to promote the work of young designers such as David, the Rado Star Prize UK is a great example of Rado’s continued dedication to design.” 

“This  second  edition  of  the  Rado  Star  Prize  UK  has  challenged  the  judges  with  a fantastic selection of projects.” commented designjunction Event Director, Will Sorrell.  The stellar line-up of judges who selected the winner included award-winning designer Bethan Gray; Head of Design at John Lewis Philippa Prinsloo; Vice President of Product Management at Rado Hakim El Kadiri; Founder of Arts Thread Katie Dominy and designjunction Event Director Will Sorrell. 

LONDON show ROOMS Paris at TRANOÏ WEEK / SS19

LONDON show ROOMS Paris at TRANOÏ WEEK  for the Spring/Summer 2019  season opens on Wednesday 26th September until Tuesday 2nd October 2018 at a New Venue: 22 rue de la Roquette, 75011 Paris, France
Hours: 10.00 – 19.00 (closing at 18.00 on 02.10.18)

Here are the fashion designers showing there: -
Alighieri | BITE | CAMILLA DAMKJAER | Edeline Lee | Eudon Choi | ISOSCELES
Luna Del Pinal | Marta Jakubowski | NABIL NAYAL | PHOEBE ENGLISH | Räthel & Wolf
Roberta Einer | Sabry Marouf | Supriya Lele
Fashion East: ART SCHOOL | ASAI | Yuhan Wang

Textile and leather companies won top prizes from the industry they serve

Italian wool mill Marini Industrie has won the PV Fabrics Grand Jury Prize 2018 at this September’s PV Awards held during the prestigious Premiere Vision group of trade fair in Paris specifically for global experts and professionals from the textile, garment and fashion industries.

Head judge – the talented Belgian designer Olivier Theyskens – commanded the Prato-based Marini for producing “the most outstanding, symbolic and pertinent fabric of the season.”

In the same event, the PV Leather Grand Jury Prize 2018 went to FC Creacio I Innovacio of Spain, for offering “the most exceptional, symbolic and pertinent leather of the season.”
The Spanish company also won the PV Leather Fashion Smart Creation Prize 2018.

The prize presentation ceremony celebrated the 10-year anniversary of the awards which were created in 2008 to highlight the most creative and innovative work of companies exhibiting at Première Vision Paris from the leather and fabric industries.

Witnessing the event held on 19th September at Parc des Exposition were influencers, movers and shakers of the whole fashion industry -weavers, tanners, designers, buyers, as well as international journalists, who congregated at the Forum PV Perspectives (Hall 5) observing eagerly to discover the winners of the 8 prizes of the 10th PV Awards, and to celebrate textile and leather excellence.

To select the products to be awarded, influential personalities from the international fashion scene responded to Première Vision's invitation and submitted their new developments to an exceptional jury headed by Olivier Theyskens who, after having successfully shaped the destinies of Rochas, Nina Ricci and Theory, has made his re-entry on the Paris stage with his own eponymous label in 2016.

Here is the full list of the 2018 WINNERS:

THE 4 PRIZES FOR PREMIÈRE VISION FABRICS

• The PV Fabrics Grand Jury Prize 2018 goes to Marini Industrie (Italy) for the most outstanding, symbolic and pertinent fabric of the season.

• The PV Fabrics Handle Prize 2018 goes to Texlover (Italy) for the fabric allying the most astonishing tactile and behavioural qualities, the fabric that touches the emotions.

• The PV Fabrics Imagination Prize 2018 goes to Stylem – Zen Kiwami (Japan) for the boldest, most original, most amazing fabric in terms of decoration, technique, finishing, innovation or technology.

• The PV Fabrics Fashion Smart Creation Prize 2018 goes to Toray Industrie (Japan) for the most creative responsible fabric.

The 4 PRIZES FOR PREMIÈRE VISION LEATHER

• The PV Leather Grand Jury Prize 2018 goes to FC Creacio I Innovacio (Spain) for the most exceptional, symbolic and pertinent leather of the season.

• The PV Leather Handle Prize 2018 goes to Naturca By Aysen Butik (Turkey) for the leather combining the most amazing tactile and behavioural qualities, the leather that touches the emotions.

• The PV Leather Imagination Prize 2018 goes to Ckd Cetinkaya (Turkey) for the most daring, original and amazing leather in terms of decoration, technique, finishing, innovation or technology.

• The PV Leather Fashion Smart Creation Prize 2018 goes to FC Creacio I Innovacio (Spain) for the most creative responsible leather

All photos © Lucia Carpio 2018

Recycled Cashmere and Velvet from recycled polyester for H&M’s new Conscious Exclusive Collection

This autumn, H&M is launching its debut Conscious Exclusive A/W 2018 collection showcasing a range of sustainable fabrics, including recycled cashmere and velvet made from recycled polyester.  The Conscious Exclusive A/W 2018 is available online 

from 27 September on hm.com.

Inspired by a lost fragment of an ancient tapestry, the collection merges the life and journey of lost historical artefacts with the latest in sustainable fabric innovation, proposing dramatic yet romantic silhouettes and a modern edge.

“The Autumn/Winter collection of Conscious Exclusive started with a desire to create a statement coat in a sustainable material that could be worn for both those special occasions and day-to-day life, but then evolved into something more substantial by merging the journey of historical artefacts with a modern design sensibility,” says Ann-Sofie Johansson, Creative Advisor at H&M.

"Fabrics in this collection, like recycled cashmere, the new velvet made from recycled polyester as well as the use of leftover ECONYL® from the previous collection.  In addition, organic silks and cottons are used.  The quality and textures not only complement the designs but highlight the fabric innovation that H&M is closely involved with. The velvet, for instance, has taken years to develop in order to create a high enough calibre that we were happy with,”  says Cecilia Brännsten, Environmental Sustainability Manager at H&M group.

In addition to women’s ready-to-wear, the range includes lingerie, shoes and accessories that balance drama with sophistication, allowing the modern pieces to be worn for party season, but also for more laidback yet luxurious-feeling days.

Key items include a sweeping full-length black coat with an oversized collar and striking waist-high side slits made from a recycled wool blend, and an all-over sequinned flower jacket made from recycled PET bottles, while the long printed dress with voluminous sleeves and deep v back in 100% organic silk will also turn heads.

Overall, the colour palette consists of black, off-white, dusty rose pink, mustard yellow, dusty blues and a touch of light grey.

Accessories include sculptural earrings made from recycled plastic, black sock booties made from recycled polyester and slingback stilettos with ribbons made from recycled polyester and TENCEL™, a large printed scarf with long fringes in a TENCEL™ blend, a black shoulder piece with recycled velvet circles attached to long ribbons and a black sequinned hoodie.

Prints, Colours and Patterns at Decorex 2018

Above, top to bottom, Waves - Linwood fabrics and wallpaper; Deya Meadow by Matthew Williamson at Osbourne & Little; Studio Damask by Timorous Beasties.  All printed in the UK by John Marsh using Hewlett-Packard Latex Ink Technology.

Design by Annie Sloan's print and colour Specialist.

Photos © Lucia Carpio 2018

Tom Dixon unveiled new headquarters at The Coal Office, King's Cross, London

The Coal Office -  British designer Tom Dixon’s new headquarters - was unveiled during London Design Festival, with a breakfast reception at its new Restaurant on premises.

The Coal Office’s Gallery, Reception, Shop, Factory and Restaurant have been transformed into ELECTROANALOGUE exhibition spaces, showcasing a variation of digital interpretations.  Tom Dixon's latest interior products are showed off to great effect in the historical architecture of the Coal Drops Yard.


All Photos © Lucia Carpio 2018

Data Experts suggest UK Brands re-think strategy to celebrate the best of UK fashion

While London Fashion Week has put world focus on the best of UK fashion, data from customer relationship experts at Optimove suggests retailers should use the event to build long term relationships rather than focus on sales.

Photo © Lucia Carpio 2018

Optimove* data has found there is no dramatic change in online purchasing during Fashion Week, while also suggests that for most retailers the impact of sales will not be significant.  This is despite retailers try to drive a sales boost with ‘see now, buy now’ initiatives from brands such as Topshop and Burberry; or getting involved by sponsoring after-parties, pop-up shows and events.

Instead, Optimove said retailers should be focusing the development of long term relationships that can provide future value.

Pini Yakuel, founder and CEO of Optimove, comments: “Featuring in London Fashion Week is a great asset for many brands as it helps them to reach a wider audience.  However, focusing on boosting sales directly through showcasing at Fashion Week could quite possibly be a fashion ‘faux pas’. 

“Fashion is a passion industry: it brings together people with a shared love for style and design, and brands can utilise this to build a relationship with customers that lasts beyond Fashion Week. Simply aiming to sell more during this one week means that brands will miss out on connecting with customers and cultivating lasting brand loyalty and increasing customers’ lifetime value. 

“For the more valuable work of offering customers real value, brands need to communicate in an emotionally intelligent way.  Retailers should be able to identify a particularly fashion-forward customer and give them sneak peeks to an exclusive collection, access to limited editions or treat them to VIP/Concierge experiences, for example. 

Pini continues: “This means moving away from general demographic assumptions and towards segmentation based on behaviour analysis.  The data which helps brands to build up a fuller view of their customers is the most valuable thing to come out of London Fashion Week, because it can help retailers develop a relationship based on ongoing exchange of value.”

*Optimove is the Science-first Relationship Marketing Hub, used by over 300 customer-centric businesses to drive measurable growth by scaling customer engagement.

Textile experts to judge this year’s TexSelect Awards in Paris at Première Vision Designs

Helen Palmer, director of textiles, materials & knitwear at WGSN and her team at WGSN will be choosing a winner for a new award this year, the WGSN TexSelect Textiles of the Future Award.

“As Foundation Sponsors of TexSelect, we decided to do more for TexSelect and the young designers it supports, as well as raise awareness of the world-critical issue of sustainability. WGSN is all about the future and future creativity and helping to showcase upcoming talent, so this new award and everything it stands for is a perfect fit for us,” said Helen in an interview with TexSelect.

Separately Natasha Lenart of Victoria Beckham and Eda Karadogan of Ipekis are judging this year’s The Woolmark Company TexSelect Award.

“This is such a wonderful opportunity to encounter young designers with boundless creativity that hasn’t yet been influenced by the day-to-day of the working industry,” says Natasha Lenart, who is fabric and knitwear development manager at Victoria Beckham.
Eda Karadogan from historic Turkish company Ipekis is equally enthused: “I am excited to be judging The Woolmark Company TexSelect Award. It’s such a good way to discover new talent and to support them.”

The winner of The Woolmark Company TexSelect Award will receive £1,000 plus ongoing support from The Woolmark Company and opportunities to learn about developments.The Woolmark Company has supported TexSelect since the charity was founded more than 40 years ago, with the Award established in 2011. It recognises design excellence in fabrics created with 60% or more Merino wool, whether presented as printed, woven, knitted and/or mixed media fabric.

Other awards also to be announced on Thursday 20 September in the DESIGNS FACTORY area of Première Vision Designs, Hall 5, will include the Fashion Prize, Interiors Prize (donated by Clothworkers' Company), Pattern Prize (donated by Liberty London Fabrics), and Colour Prize (donated by mode...information and Pantone).

Also to be announced are the Marks & Spencer TexSelect Fashion Textile Award, and the Worshipful Company of Woolmen TexSelect Design Innovation Award for Wool in Interiors.

Elka's AW18 Sea Crew collection honours the heritage of the hard-working fishermen and sea crews of the North Sea.

The weather is turning and the north wind will soon start to blow and bite.  Spare a thought for those who bear the brunt of the cold when their work takes them out to the cold north sea.

I'm thinking of fishermen who throughout history have always mended their workwear with patches whilst at work in the harsh conditions of the rough seas. These patches bear testimony to years of fighting and working in often inhospitable conditions. These patches act as badges of honour and can signify the duration of one’s service.

Since the foundation of the brand Elka in 1958 one of their main objectives has been the outfitting and protection of Danish fishing fleets. Thus the Sea Crew collection is a reinterpretation of designs that have kept fishermen dry for 60 years.

Built with original 320g OEKO-TEX® standard 100 PVC fabric and high frequency welded seams Elka makes sure that every jacket from the Sea Crew collection meets the same exacting standards that we send to sea.

The original PVC collection has been the heart of our DNA since the company’s inception, and that the company takes pride in making clothing that is durable and waterproof enough to be worn by fishermen on the North Sea.

Handmade in their own factories since the beginning their materials are OEKO-TEX® certified and the Original PVC Collection still utilises their classic designs with bonded seams and raglan sleeves for maximum flexibility and waterproofing. After sixty years of sending these jackets out to sea the company declares proudly that their garments still stand up to the test every time.

Read in full on the Textile Innovations page.  Click HERE. 

Ethical footwear brand Po-Zu unveils AW18 and SS19 collections ahead of London Fashion Week

This Autumn/Winter 2018 season, British ethical footwear brand Po-Zu's signature style returns with chrome-free leather boots and best-selling sneakers. The new collection features new developments and silhouettes, including a non-leather runner which nods to the continuing athleisure trend, a vegan Chelsea boot, a vegan high top and a vegan snow-boot to see us through the après-ski season.

Building on the 12 year history of the brand, Po-Zu launched a new ethical line from Sri Lanka for the Spring/Summer 2019 season while also growing the Portuguese product range to offer a stylish ethical alternative for both men and women.

Sven Segal, CEO of Po-Zu, commented: “Seasons may come and go but the ethical footwear trend is here to stay. Therefore, we are also introducing new styles, a large amount of which are also vegan.

Spring/Summer 2019 features fresh new colours and stylish easy-to-wear sneakers made with organic cotton, coconut coir and Fair Trade rubber. “

Safia Minney, MBE, Managing Director of Po-Zu and Founder of Fair Trade fashion pioneer, People Tree, comments: “It’s been incredibly exciting building our ethical and sustainable supply chain in Sri Lanka and we’re so pleased to be able to offer customers an even wider choice of ethically-made footwear at prices that are ever more accessible.

Safia continued: “Consumers are waking up to the harmful consequences of their purchasing decisions. We are seeing ever more a shift towards vegan fashion that is not just cruelty-free but also plastic-free and environmentally-friendly. Working with naturally vegan and biodegradable Po-Zu shoes offer style and substance with top-class sustainability credentials."

Meanwhile, Po-Zu continues to maintain a cult following with the geek and Star Wars community, adding several new styles to the AW18 offering for Star Wars fans. Most notable is the new Leather RESISTANCE in luxury soft chrome-free leather.  Referencing the Rebel Alliance emblem with a heat embossed logo on the side the new sneakers shine new light on the timeless Star Wars brand. The range, which has been officially licenced by Lucasfilm and Disney has been worn on actors and stars alike including Daisy Ridley (Heroine Rey) Mark Hamil (Luke Skywalker), director, Kevin Smith, Youtuber, Casey Neistat and more.

Consumers’ increasing awareness of sustainability, ethical fashion and sharing economy

Some of the industry's visionaries on sustainability, ethical fashion and fair trade joined up to discuss Sourcing and Design and the Next Chapter on Fashion and Sustainability at Bloomsbury Gallery in London on September 4th  while ethical footwear brand Po-Zu’s launched their new SS19 and AW18 collections.

Photo from Pu-Zu. 

The discussions highlighted consumers’ increasing awareness of the harmful consequences of their purchasing decisions, and the growing shift towards vegan fashion that is not just cruelty-free but also plastic-free and environmentally-friendly. 

Sven Segal, Founder and CEO of Po-Zu said: "Everything starts with awareness. Most people are completely unaware of the issues with the footwear and the fashion industry.  My speciality is shoes and I can tell you there are tonnes of really nasty chemicals put into ordinary shoes. There ought to be a list of ingredients if you buy online on the product page much like with food."

On the next chapter for the industry, Safia Minney, MBE, Founder of People Tree and Managing Director of Po-Zu commented: "I see the work of the pioneers informing the agenda. The problem with ethical fashion and footwear brands is that we have to run so fast and compete on an unlevel playing field because we are competing with sweatshop fashion and fashion that is highly polluting and exploitative."

Caryn Franklin MBE, British fashion commentator, Professor of Diversity in Fashion and former Fashion Editor and Co-Editor of i-D Magazine: "It is a case of joining up the dots. If we are looking to be empowered and emboldened by our choices and to feel that to a certain extent we have embodied cognition: that we are feeling good about what we are wearing so therefore we have confidence and self-belief..."

Caryn continued: "If you know that something has been made by somebody in despair, then it has absolutely nothing to contribute to  life and your experience of yourself, because that information, you can't un-know."

On the vegan revolution, the plant-based economy and cruelty-free fashion, Bel Jacobs, freelance fashion journalist and former Style Editor at the Metro said: "The very fact of the matter is that sentient beings are suffering."

Bel added, on the next steps for the industry "I think social media is putting forward stories about what is going on behind the factory walls in a more efficient and devastating way than ever before and I think consumers are going to react to that."

Tamsin Lejeune, CEO of Common Objective and Founder of the Ethical Fashion Forum remarked: "The entire fashion and economic system is dysfunctional. We need tax breaks for ethical fashion pioneers to level the playing field, so they can compete."

Last but not least, on the sharing economy, Zoe Partridge, Founder of wardrobe rental concept, Wear the Walk said "It is about changing people's mindsets and how they consume."

Modern fashion meets Japanese sub-culture as new clothing brand Tokkou arrives for London Fashion Week

Contemporary Japanese fashion brand Tokkou is setting up a pop-shop in London’s trendy Notting Hill to coincide with London Fashion Week.

The London-based brand takes inspiration from Japanese youth subculture Bousou-zoku for its cutting-edge looks.

TOKKOU’s visionaries want to bring their fresh approach to couture by using technologically enhanced fabrics.
Photos from TOKKOU

The designs are inspired by traditional garments worn by the bousou-zoku biker gangs and the traditional sotsuran worn by students during their graduation ceremony, the Tokkou collection reinterprets clothing as an art form used to express team names and beliefs with words and illustrations.

Inspired by the recent popularity of Japanese culture in Europe and the current trend for Japanese writing, embroidered jackets and jeans, the Tokkou brand symbolises Japan’s cultural heritage while incorporating elements of British punk-rock and Gothic culture. The result is a striking Asian-British fusion of silhouettes, cuts and styles with unmistakable Japanese flair.

Its 2019 Spring Summer collection, Shining in the Dark, is designed in the hope that the wearer shines even while riding their motorcycle in the dark.

Featuring dark and brooding hues emblazoned with eye-catching traditional Japanese characters and bold graphics, the Tokkou range includes oversized hoodies, tailored jackets, trousers, sweatpants, shirts, dresses and tailored shorts.

Each garment is created in the country that the company has drawn much of their inspiration from and aims to transmit traditional Japanese culture to the world through fashion.

TOKKOU’s visionaries want to bring more of their fresh approach to couture to stores and streets around the country by using technologically enhanced fabrics.

Billed as "utterly wearable and very on trend," the collection is designed to be edgy yet timeless and uses modern materials such as a soft Lyocell Cotton blend, with a gentle and drapeable texture that unlike nylon and polyester, does not require petroleum for its production.

There’s also high dense stitch fleece lining, luxurious 80 yarn count poplin and luxury fabrics spun in the Biella region of Northern Italy.

Tokkou has ambitious plans to present its designs to the world, and will host a guerrilla fashion show on the 15th September alongside London Fashion Week. 

The Notting Hill pop up shop will be open to the public, the media and fashion merchandisers alike from the 21st September for two weeks.

During their time at London Fashion Week, Tokkou’s creators are hoping to meet with suppliers to clothing stores throughout Europe as well as independent fashion retailers who understand the brand’s vision and share their view of Japanese fashion as an art form. 

UK fine jewellery industry to reach £3.3billion in 2018

In the UK, the retail value of the fine jewellery industry rose for the fourth successive year to a high of £3.2billion in 2017, according to research from Euromonitor International and is predicted to rise again in 2018 to reach GBP £3.3 billion.

“Diamonds are a girl’s best friend” and British women’s favourite choice of gem to wear, according to research published today by leading UK online jewellers Gemporia (www.gemporia.com).

All categories of fine jewellery; rings, neckwear, wristwear and earrings have grown, with necklaces showing the largest (10%) uplift over the 2014 – 2018 period. Overall, rings are still the biggest category of fine jewellery sales in the UK worth £1.39bn in 2017, predicted to rise further to £1.435bn by the end of 2018, while watches saw the slowest growth with 2% retail value increase in 2017.

Karolina Zlotkovska, beauty and fashion analyst at Euromonitor International comments, “The decline in the British pound sterling, following the Brexit vote in 2016, was beneficial for fine jewellery retailers in the immediate aftermath. With a cheaper currency and plenty of stock, jewellery could be sold with a preserved margin to foreign customers happy to seize the opportunity.”

The Euromonitor research has been released to coincide with the International Jewellery London trade event, current held at Olympia, Kensington, (2-4 September 2018).

India set to overtake US as second biggest market for fine jewellery

The top 5 countries or economies – notably  China, India, US, Japan and Hong Kong - account for 70% of worldwide jewellery spending according to research provided by Euromonitor International and are predicted to reach a staggering US$331bn by the end of 2018.

The country that brings Bollywood to the world, is now set to be a leading market for serious bling.
Photos: Illamasqua India Fashion Week London 

According to newly released figures revealed at the International Jewellery London trade fair (September 2 - 4 at Olympia, Kensington), India is set to overtake US as second biggest market for fine jewellery by the end of 2018, while China remains the biggest market in the world for fine jewellery.

Fotoulla Michael, Head Of Sales, International Jewellery London (IJL) said:  “This research shows that the Indian market for fine jewellery has grown enormously over the last five years.

“There has been news in recent months about increased appetite for platinum, diamonds and also coloured stones, alongside the more traditional demand for gold jewellery. India’s growing domestic market will have a huge impact on worldwide jewellery trade,” said Michael, adding that Indian designers, manufacturers and gem dealers are welcome to the International Jewellery Week in London this session.  They include Kohinoor, Karats & Carats, Videotron Gems & Jewellers, Spectrum Jewels and Lotus Gems.

Jewellery industry expert David Brough, concurred that India is a vast and growing market for luxury, notably for diamond jewellery. “Advertising campaigns in India led by groups such as the Diamond Producers Association (DPA), are bound to increase demand by the country's increasingly affluent consumers for diamond jewellery in the coming years," he said.

The figures from market research experts at Euromonitor International, highlighted that the Indian fine jewellery market will be worth USD $62.8bn,  $4billion more than US retail spend which will reach $58.6bn, by the end of 2018.

The US market for fine jewellery has grown by 12% over the last five years (USD $52.2bn in 2014) but the Indian market has increased by a phenomenal 74% over the same period (USD $36.1bn in 2014).

China remains the biggest market for fine jewellery, with sales reaching USD $86.3billion and is expected to reach USD$92billion by the end of this year.  Overall Chinese market has grown by over 21% in the last five years.

More than 550 exhibitors and 10,000 visitors from over 50 countries are expected to attend the International Jewellery London trade fair.

ROICA™ Joins Première Vision Paris - Smart Square

Come September 19, 20, and 21, 2018, ROICA™ will set up camp at Première Vision Paris -  Smart Square -  where their experts will discuss responsible innovation and well-being.

This season, ROICA™ will showcase their Eco Smart family that offers 2 responsibly-made yarns: a GRS (Global Recycled Standard) version 3 certified yarn and the world’s first yarn awarded Cradle2Cradle Material Health Gold Level Certificate and Hohenstein Environment compatibility certification.

On display in the Smart Square, a 800-sq. m. area dedicated to shed light on a new generation of values combining creativity, innovation and sustainability, is a  unique  range of ROICA™ Eco-Smart family based fabrics, the world's first responsibly made premium stretch fibers creating ROICA™ smart yarns that offer sustainable solutions with impressive certifications:
- Global Recycled Standard (GRS) certified by Textile Exchange - ROICA™ constructed with more than 50% pre-consumer recycled content.
- Cradle to Cradle Certified™ Gold Level for Material Health product and ingredients - ROICA™ yarn evaluated throughout the supply chain for lower impacts on human and environmental health. Striving toward eliminating all toxic and unidentified chemicals for a safe continuous cycle. Hohenstein Environment Compatibility Certificate - ROICA™ proudly breaks down without releasing harmful substances.

Conferences at Premiere Vision Paris on Sport and Technology

Three conferences exploring the close relationship between fashion and sport will be held during Premiere Vision Paris, hosted by Pascal Monfort, founder of the research firm REC Trends marketing, along with two presentations by companies in the sector, all to take place in the SPORT & TECH Forum.

Premiere Vision Paris attract fashion and garment trade visitors from all corners of the world.
Photo © Lucia Carpio 

Here is the schedule for the Conferences:

Wednesday 19 Sept. at 2 pm
Sport & Fashion, partners in success.
‘Sportswear’ has become the most dynamic sector in the fashion industry. How can fashion and sports co-exist, drawing on each of their codes and references, for a win-win situation?

Thursday 20 Sept. at 3 pm
Sport: where performance meets with elegance.  Technical cuts and fabrics are no longer just for sports, they’re conquering the world of style as well. How performance products gained new uses, broad acceptance, and moved into the zeitgeist.

Friday 21 Sept. at 11 am
Sport, from «Street Culture» to «Sport Couture»: Luxury meets a young generation of consumers. Luxury cosies up to sports to better connect and inspire a young generation of consumers around the world. How brands gain a better comprehension of new consumer standards by viewing sports as an ally.

TWO MASTERCLASSES BY EXHIBITORSOn September 19 and 20, SPORT & TECH exhibitors along with PV Paris fashion team will present some of their latest products highlighted in Fashion and Sport with an analysis of major influences and a broad look at the key points for technical and performant fabrics for autumn winter 2020.

Première Vision Paris to highlight close association between sport and fashion this September

PREMIÈRE VISION PARIS: SPORT GAINS GROUND 

AT PREMIÈRE VISION PARIS:  A FIRST- EVER SPORT & TECH SECTOR, INFORMATIVE FORUM, AND EXCLUSIVE PROGRAMME!  

"From mass market to luxury houses, everyone needs sports,"
says Pascal Monfort, fashion consultant of sport and
lifestyle founder of Trends Marketing REC agency.
Photo taken at Premiere Vision Paris 2017.
Photo © Lucia Carpio  

The association between sport and fashion has never been closer.  Today thanks to new technology and innovation, functional performance is integrated into fashion and textiles development.

Thus in the next edition of the fashion and textiles fair Première Vision Paris, due to take place 19 – 21 September at Villepinte, Paris, the show will dedicate new spaces to highlight sport and technical innovations on offer from exhibitors, to assist ready-to-wear brands looking for innovative products to develop their high-performance fashion pieces.

Fashion and sports are closely associated.
Photo from Premiere Vision Paris 2017.
Photo © Lucia Carpio 

The new spaces will include a dedicated fashion decoding system, and a specific conference programme.

Trade visitors and industry professionals should look out for:-
• A SPORT & TECH sector in the heart of Hall 6 at Première Vision Fabrics.
• A SPORT & TECH trail available on the show's mobile app available to download
• A SPORT & TECH forum (formerly the Tech Focus Forum).
• A dedicated program of conferences in the SPORT & TECH forum, moderated by Pascal Monfort, founder and director of the Trends Marketing REC agency.

Monsieur Monfort, a notable fashion consultant specializing in sport & lifestyle, acknowledges that the communion between sport and fashion has reached its maturity and all areas are affected.

"From mass market to luxury houses, everyone needs sports, and they take real risks if they try and give it up. Refusing to integrate sneakers into a collection today is almost dangerous.  You can also see that a sports spirit is mixed in with fashion too," he said in an interview with Première Vision Paris.

"Yes, and the entire sports world has been summoned. Athletes walked straight into the fashion universe. They sit in the front row of the runway shows. Their reach is immense and covers all parts of the world, far more than celebrities.

"In addition, sporting events also dictate fashion calendars with, for example, the creation of capsule collections for soccer’s World Cup or the America’s Cup.  This has transformed the needs of brands. 

Premiere Vision Paris 2017.  Photo © Lucia Carpio 

M. Monfort continues: "The new generation of artistic directors in major houses like to work with technical fabrics and materials that previously caused no excitement for people outside of the sports world. We used to want comfortable materials. Now they also have to be efficient and ultra-technical."

The complete interview can be found on the Première Vision website and in the Cloud of Fashion Newspaper #3.