Sustainability the key message at Denim Premiere Vision in London in December

It’s no longer regarded as a novel idea or a trend, but a must-take path for textile and material companies to embrace sustainability and there is no exception for denim, traditionally seen as one of the most un-eco-friendly materials.  

Thus it was not a coincident that sustainability was the main message from many exhibitors at the 2nd London edition of Denim Première Vision, held December 3 – 4 2019, where the fair focused on creativity and eco-responsible denim collections as the headline project for the Spring-Summer 2021 season.

Showcased at the fair, held in Printworks in Canada Water, south London, was a selection of sustainable developments in terms of sourcing, production processes and finishings.  These were highlighted in a focus area named Habitat 21, created in collaboration with Italian designer Kristian Guerra with installation designed by Filippo Maria Bianchi.

Displayed fabrics were from a selection of exhibitors selected by PV’s own Smart Creation team.  Exhibitors in this area included Advance Denim, Berto, Bossa, Calik Denim, Kilim Denim, Naveena Denim Mill, Orta Anadolu, Panama Trimmings, Properity Textile, Rajby Industries, Raymond Uco Denim, Soorty, and Tavex-Evlox.


According to the organisers’ fashion team, the SS 2021 denim fashion trends presented by Manon Mangin, focus on the key words of the season: Earth, Water, Work, Mobility and Fantasy.

Earth and Water refers to environmental links with nature with renewable materials such as linen and hemp, with pared down surfaces and clean refined elegant dimension, and denim inspired by ecological aspects with soft handles mixing organic with soy fibre.
Work denotes the raw appearance of visually more compact denims for apparel with structured silhouettes, surfaces with light reflection and dyed with shine.
While Mobility is  lifestyle-led focusing on fabrics with abstract movement, with smooth suppleness, fine substances with density while Fantasy is a colour story with dyed fabrics, soft contrasting patterning, tone on tone brights for offbeat silhouettes.

Emulating qualities from nature was a popular direction from many exhibitors.  New developments from a number of exhibitors combine refined elegant textures with irregular surfaces and non-uniformity as the norm, in blends of linen and hemp, organic, biopolymers and alternative along with organic and recycled cotton and soy protein fibre, along with traceable supply chains with conscious applications to manage waste and energy efficiently under social and ethical initiatives.

The eco-ethics transcend to accessories as well, including Lyocell zips, responsible galvanised rivets and buttons, and organic cotton trimmings and labels.

Spanish denim maker Evlox drove its message of total sustainable denim fabrics with natural inky hues and textures and patterns inspired by waves and sky.  The company prides itself on authentic sustainable fabrics linking cutting-edge technology with reliable suppliers.  In addition to utilising recycled materials, they use a dyeing technolgy that reduces water consumption, and sustainable finishing and better performance through laser finishes. Their bionim high-tech denim is boosted to stay cool, dry and comfortable to wear with a polyester layer fibre with water repellency and high tenacity.

PG Denim of Italy celebrated main innovations in 100% sustainable denim with a fashion twist thanks to the tireless research by CEO and project Founder Paolo Gnutti, who has driven the company to a substantial turnover increase by 40% this year, and rapid expansion into the US market through partnerships with more than 20 US brands.  The company’s new WOW Denim SS 2021 collection shows printed materials restyled through colourful techniques drawn from flowers from the historical traditions of Provence and inspired by nature.  There is also a new range of printed velvet denim and velvet stripes using viscose flock achieving different effects using various washing processes.  Another new collection is called Studio 54 inspired by the metallised colours of cars in the 1950s and 60s featuring colour pastes glittering against dark backgrounds and painted effects.


Italian shirting expert Canclini took part in Denim PV for the first time, showcasing a restyled collection Blue 1925 for its new denim range, with blue and indigo as the main colours, and trendy tones using over-dyeing. The goal was to make the fabrics more appealing to the younger generation. Main qualities included linen, hemp and bamboo, regenerated cotton, and recycled fibres.  Effect innovations range from garment to yarn-dyed, shuttle-loom developed as well as jersey, jacquard fil-coupe and printed materials.

Another special event during the London Denim PV was a special workshop: “Learn how to Re-Trace an iconic pair of jeans”, run under the watchful eye of the maestro Alessio Berto from the Tailor Pattern Support in Italy.  

The workshop run on both days of the trade fair focused on the importance of pattern-making allowing participants to have hands-on opportunity to learn how to create patterns based on heritage jeans of three iconic brands: the Levi’s 501, Lee 101Z and Wrangler 11MWZ.

One of the highlights in this December fair was an exhibition of valuable iconic jeans in collaboration with M.O.D.E. – Museum of Denim Elleti in Verona Italy.  It gives visitors insights into the history of denim through a selection of rare original jeans selected from the museum in three areas of exploration that tell the history of the iconic workwear fabric through showcasing the brand identity of the LEE jeans and their transformation, the designing, creating and wearing of WWII influenced clothing and the vital history of the hard-wearing dungarees or overall.

Photos by Content Editor Lucia Carpio (except for the one she is photographed with the pattern-cutting maestro Alessio Berto at the "Re-Trace" workshop during Denim PV London.

The next Denim PV event will take place June 10 & 11 2020, at Superstudio Piu, Milan, Italy.

Classic Blue, the Colour of the year 2020, says PANTONE

Classic Blue will the red-hot colour for 2020, according to the US colour institute  PANTONE, as they reckon that this colour represents a dependable and stable foundation to move forward to a new era.  

Pantone Color of the Year 2020 - Classic Blue Mood board  from Covet House. 
Instilling calm, confidence, and connection, this enduring blue hue highlights our desire for a dependable and stable foundation on which to build as we cross the threshold into a new era. Suggestive of the sky at dusk, the reassuring qualities of the thought-provoking PANTONE 19-4052 Classic Blue highlight our desire for a dependable and stable foundation on which to build as we cross the threshold into a new era.

It is said that Classic Blue brings calmness, confidence and connection, which is probably when the world needs now at a time when many global economies are shrouded in uncertainties and political unrest.
‘We are living in a time that requires trust and faith. It is this kind of constancy and confidence that is expressed by Pantone 19-405 Classic Blue, a solid and dependable blue hue we can always rely on.' said Leatrice Eiseman, Executive Director of the Pantone Color Institute.

Coffee Mug from COPENHAGEN DESIGN, a Danish design company that develops products under the license of PANTONE made for the creative professionals, who already work with the PANTONE colour system and made for those who just loves to see the world more colourful. 
COPENHAGEN DESIGN will exhibit at Top Drawer London Januasry 12 - 14 2020.

As a versatile and popular colour, Blue is widely regarded as soothing as well as strong and regal even, and can easily be paired with a wide range of colours, from pink and red to all spectrum of green and yellow.  

According to Covet House, the different hues of blue, like the colours of the ocean, are the new black, this season. The more mix of blues incorporated in the design, the better, from the navy blue, the denim and colbat blue to the ocean and peacock. The options for the design are endless.

Majority of UK fashion shoppers switch, avoid or boycott brands because of their environmental policies, says consultants at Kantar

Sustainability and social responsibility are of paramount importance 

to today’s modern shoppers.

Brazilian denim specialist VICUNHA TEXTIL has brought in denim guru Adriano Goldschmied (who has established a number of brands including Diesel and Replay) to help develop a denim fabric that saves up to 95% water and up to 90% chemicals in its production. As it is made of recycled pre-consumer denim, additional dyeing is not necessary. The special character of the fabric is down to the indigo of the original material, which is shredded and turned into a new fabric. With its authentic and unique appearance, ABSOLUT ECO offers an innovative alternative to reusing denim waste without the need for further dyeing. Items from the ABSOLUT ECO line are barely washed or not washed at all. They can be used directly for ready-to-wear, without any other chemicals having to be used.  

New consumer research published this week by Kantar, a leading data, insights and consulting firm, reveals that over three-quarters (76%) of UK fashion shoppers have, in the last 12 months, switched, avoided or boycotted buying certain fashion labels, or would consider doing so in the future, based on brands’ environmental policies.

Kantar questioned over 1,200 UK consumers between the ages of 16 and 65+ about their concern over a range of environmental issues, their purchasing decisions based on a brand’s sustainability credentials, environmental responsibility and whether, as a consumer, they had ever decided to boycott buying a product or switch to another brand based on its environmental reputation.

Brand loyalty is lowest among the youngest age group of 16-24 year-olds with 83% saying they have switched or might do so, with more males (22%) switching or boycotting brands than females (16%).

Responses differ considerably among generations too, with over a third (35%) of Millennials saying they have avoided buying, or decided to choose a different brand over the last 12 months, compared to only 8% of Baby Boomers. However almost half (49%) of this generation of 55-65+ year-olds indicated that while they hadn’t switched or boycotted brands in the last year because of their environmental credentials, they might consider doing so in the future – the highest among all age groups.

Harsh working conditions, environmental pollution and the overuse of packaging are some of the issues consumers think carefully about before purchasing clothes.

Much more work needs to be done by the fashion industry when it comes to publicising the positive work it is doing to address the environmental problems resulting from the throw-away, ‘fast fashion’ culture we live in today, say 72% of consumers. This sentiment is high across all regions (>69%) with more shoppers in Greater London (76%) agreeing. Only 13% consider this issue unimportant.

Mark Chamberlain, managing director of Brand, Kantar UK said: “Responsible living is being driven by cross-generational groups of ‘woke’ consumers that look towards inspiring brand heroes as change leaders. Governments and organisations are being forced to listen and respond to consumers’ demands for greater transparency as businesses strive to become more purposeful.”

Almost 90% of respondents surveyed agree that brands need to take more responsibility for the waste they produce and the impact it this has on our environment. This sentiment was high across all age groups (>82%) but highest among those aged 65 and over (92%). Three-quarters of shoppers agree that, due to inaction from many of the world’s governments, they want brands to act as forces for positive change in our society. However, when questioned about their response, over 70% of all consumers agreed that efforts by businesses to protect the environment are ‘too little, too late’, with younger generations of Millennials agreeing most with this statement (78%).

Premiere Vision celebrates 45th anniversary with new book on key fashion creative moments

Along with archive images, portrayals of exceptional craftsmen and designers, INSPIRING FASHION TEXTILE REVOLUTIONS retraces the growing influence and leadership of Première Vision in becoming a pivotal force that put forth material innovation and technological progression in the fashion and creative industries, through its long journey from a humble beginning originally created by an association of just 15 Lyon-based weavers.
The authors are two distinguished industry experts: Editor-in-Chief of lifestyle magazine L’Express Dix, Lydia Bacrie who has been identifying, deciphering, analyzing and setting the trend in fashion for over 15 years; and Charlotte Brunel who was for a long time fashion editor at L’Express Dix (and author of T-shirt published by Assouline in 2001), who has also collaborated with Le Journal du Dimanche and Le Monde.

The Paris-based Première Vision is not only well-known for organising and staging world-class international trade shows and marketplace for the world’s fashion professionals, it is also highly respected as a go-to valuable source for inspiration and known for its influential ability to recognise greatness, nurture creativity and decipher trends.
It is therefore fitting for Première Vision to celebrate its 45^th anniversary and achievements by putting it in writing, with the publication on December 5, 2019 a fine new book entitled Inspiring Fashion Textile Revolutions,  published by La Martinière editions.
Highlighted specifically in the book are chapters to focus on key turning points in the fashion and textile industries over the last four and a half decades, including the emergence of knitwear, the rise of Lurex® or polyamide, the crowning of accessories, the arrival of eco-responsible materials and related garments … key developments that have shaped and changed the world of global fashion, telling the unique story behind the makers and the shakers along the way with Première Vision as it develops its role as a leader in the global fashion industry.

DENIM PREMIÈRE VISION in London, December 3 - 4.

Innovative denim developments on display at Première Vision Paris in September 2019.

Photo by Lucia Carpio.

Following on the success of its first London edition last December, and a Milan edition lauded by fashion professionals and the denim industry last May, Denim Première Vision will be returning for  the second time to the UK capital come 3-4 December.

It will be held in a new venue, Printworks London, a cultural destination in southeast London.

Denim qualities from Portuguese mill Trificolor 

 on show at Premiere Vision Paris in September 2019.

Photo by Lucia Carpio.

Presenting the latest on offer from 97 exhibitors from around the world. the show will focus on Spring-Summer 2021 trends and eco-responsible innovations in materials, the latest technologies and techniques as well as various contemporary denim developments.

Organisers say the fair will be targeting all creative fashion brands that develop denim collections - fashion and luxury brands, pure jeanswear players, web players.  This season’s broadened offer is up by 9% over the 89 exhibitors showing in December 2018.


As an itinerant show, Denim Première Vision aims to ensure a continuity between its various editions. While the show relies on new destinations to help professionals conquer new markets, the goal is also to build lasting relationships between these various players.

Sustainability and Smart Materials are key factors 
at Denim Première Vision in London

Returning to Denim Première Vision this December will be Platform C.L.A.S.S. - the acronym for Creativity Lifestyle And Sustainable Synergy – which will take up a booth to educate, share sustainable innovation and promote smart textiles to professionals in the fashion business.

“In London, we will bring forward its vision and strategy with a set of initiatives, talks and projects,” explains Giusy Bettoni, CEO and founder of C.LA.S.S. and sustainability consultant for the Première Vision in Paris.  Ms Bettoni will curate a programme of #SmartTalks in London with some of the most influential players in the industry.

The programme focuses on the concept of Jeans ReDesign exploring denim becoming smarter with many different expressions, interactions and brand new solutions dedicated to today’s consumers. The series includes The Jeans Redesign Guidelines by Make Fashion Circular; a talk dedicated to the new generation of contemporary fibres and circular economy business models. Other talks focus on the role of the designer as an enzymatic power triggering sustainable change in fashion and the role and the innovative design strategies of brands and retailers bringing together circular economy and a new level of aesthetics, performances and unexpected multiple lifecycles.

C.L.A.S.S. will also bring its Smart Materials Bank featuring some of the most innovative materials on the market to provide an open and inspirational resource and educational tool for designers, students, brands and researchers, allowing them to discover and experiment with a unique selection of sustainable textiles, yarns and fashion components.

This year, Italian denim manufacturer Candiani Denim joins the Smart Materials Bank with its  smart collections, in particular, the ReGen, winner of the 2019 ITMA Sustainable Award.  It is a rigid selvedge fabric composed of 50% Refibra™ fibers and 50% recycled fiber, ReLast, a stretch fabric, composed of organic cotton and the world’s first ROICA™ EF premium stretch yarn made with 58% of pre-consumer recycled content, the ROICA™ EF comes with the Global Recycled Standard - GRS - certification by the influential Textile Exchange. 

“At C.L.A.S.S. we constantly monitor the textile business looking for sustainable and innovative products. Our Smart Materials Bank, the result of such observatory, is open to creatives who can purchase at affordable prices samples and small quantities of sustainable materials up to 50 meters.” Explains Luca Olivini, Eco Hub Material Manager of C.L.A.S.S.

PREMIÈRE VISION, PATRON OF THE EXHIBITION ON THE HISTORY OF SHOES at the MUSÉE DES ARTS DÉCORATIFS OF PARIS

One of the main highlights at the next edition of Première Vision Paris - from February 11 to 13, 2020 at the Parc des Expositions de Paris Nord Villepinte - will be a relay of an exhibition on the history of Shoes currently showing at the Musee des Arts Decoratifs of Paris - through animations and educational installations about the conception and manufacture of shoes, providing a prospective and creative look at these key products that have entered the collections of all the fashion brands.

The exhibition "Marche et Démarche, Une histoire de la chaussure" focuses on the history of shoes and footwear, and is on until 23 February 2020 at the MAD, the Musée des Arts Décoratifs of Paris.

Above, a wide range of creative leather qualities on show at PREMIÈRE VISION LEATHER in Paris, and 

Below, displays of components and accessories at PREMIÈRE VISION ACCESSORIES, 

both events took place at the September 2019 PREMIÈRE VISION Paris show.

Photos by Lucia Carpio.

It is an exhibition of natural echo for Première Vision, which, through its flagship event Première Vision Paris, highlights each season the creative complementarity of the fashion industry’s professions, particularly in its specialized spaces: PREMIÈRE VISION LEATHER, the leather specialist universe which presents a selection of tanners and manufacturers for the leather goods, clothing and footwear markets, and PREMIÈRE VISION ACCESSORIES, which presents an offer of components for fashion, accessories and footwear.

British artist among 10 to participate in international exhibition at Istanbul Museum of Modern Art in February 2020 as part of residency programme

Rana Begum, “Baskets” (2017), at Kettle’s Yard, Cambridge, UK

London-based artist Rana Begum is one of ten artists from around the world invited to participate in a new residency programme at the Istanbul Museum of Modern Art, and their work will culminate in an exhibition in February 2020, with the support of the Istanbul Development Agency (ISTRA).

Rana Begum was inspired by the architecture of Istanbul, in particular the domed roofs that are such a prominent feature of the skyline. During her research trip, she visited workshops and learned about different metal spinning techniques. Renowned for her impressive and varied sculptures, Begum will use the practices she observed in Istanbul to create 60 different molds to make a large-scale wall piece for display in the final exhibition.

Born in 1977 in Bangladesh, then moved to the UK with her family, Rana Begum received a BA in painting from the Chelsea College of Arts, followed by an MFA in the same field from the Slade School of Fine Art. She currently lives and works in London. Using various modes of expression such as painting and sculpture, the artist draws inspiration from urban architecture and Islamic arts. She won the Abraaj Prize at Art Dubai 2017 and has had solo exhibitions and participated in group exhibitions in diverse countries, including the UK, the United States, France, Sweden, and China. Her works have appeared in exhibitions at Tate St Ives, UK (2018); Gemeentemuseum Den Haag, the Hague, the Netherlands (2017); Parasol Unit, London (2016); and MAK – Museum of Applied Arts, Vienna (2015).  One of her recent creations "Baskets" was shown at Kettle's Yard, Cambridge, UK, in 2017 as shown in picture above.

Each resident artist invited by the Istanbul Museum spends a total of six weeks in Istanbul over two separate visits, with the first part devoted to first-hand research and the next to the making process. During their first visit, the artists tour the workshops of different artisans, learning about traditional designs, material choices, and production methods. On their second trip to Turkey’s cultural capital, they apply this understanding of local crafts to their own artwork, creating a new piece that will be unveiled in the group exhibition.

Outi Pieski, “Čohkiideapmi / Falling Shawls” (2017), photo by Ari Karttunen / EMMA, and “Ovdavázzit – Forewalkers”, sitespecific sculptural installation for the Finnish Pavilion at the 58th Venice Biennale (2019), photo by Ugo Carmeni

Istanbul Modern is producing a series of short films recording the artists’ individual journeys, and will also compile and present an archival section as part of the exhibition. The museum will hold talks with the artists and organise educational workshops in conjunction with the show.

In addition to Rana Begum of London, the other participating artists are: Faig Ahmed (Baku), Benji Boyadgian (Jerusalem), Rodrigo Hernández (Lisbon and Mexico City), Servet Koçyiğit (Amsterdam), Outi Pieski (Utsjoki and Numminen), Randi & Katrine (Copenhagen), Wael Shawky (Alexandria and Philadelphia), and Jorinde Voigt (Berlin).