Showing posts with label catwalk. Show all posts
Showing posts with label catwalk. Show all posts

Tuesday, 27 January 2026

Catwalk Report: Copenhagen Fashion Week - OpéraSPORT Fall/Winter 2026 Collection — Venice by Night

OpéraSport, established in Copenhagen by Stephanie Gundelach and Awa Malina Stelter, opens today, January 27 2026, the AW26 edition of Copenhagen Fashion Week, integrating classic and contemporary styles with a sporty edge, bringing a clear sense of relevance and timelessness to each piece. As the first show of the season, the brand sets the tone for a memorable week, embodying the values at the core of Nordic fashion.

Entitled Venice by Night, the collection FW26 is inspired by Venice after dark - interpreting Venice's nocturnal elegance through sculpted tailoring in contrast with liquid recycled satins and sequined surfaces that shimmer like reflections on the water. 

Layers of lace, ruffles, and softly draped satin echo the faded grandeur of Venetian palazzos, while structured silhouettes and recycled faux fur details introduce modern depth and warmth.

Referencing H.C. Andersen’s poetic vision of the city as a dream suspended between water and light, the collection translates nocturnal Venetian elegance into a contemporary wardrobe.

“It was as if the sea itself carried the city upon its waves, and as if the sky had cast its glow down to be reflected in its canals.” – H.C. Andersen, Improvisatoren (1835)

FW26 balances sculpted tailoring with fluid recycled satins and shimmering sequins that evoke reflections on water. Lace, ruffles, and softly draped satin recall the faded grandeur of Venetian palazzos, while structured silhouettes and recycled faux fur add modern contrast, warmth, and depth. The color palette mirrors dusk in Venice: deep chocolate, pale pink, and olive tones dissolve into lilac hues, pearlescent whites, and silver highlights—creating a dialogue between shadow and glow, nostalgia and modernity.


True to OpéraSPORT’s DNA, the collection is produced using recycled and organic materials. As a seasonal highlight, the brand introduces its first footwear collaboration with British heritage shoemaker Clarks. Two exclusive styles reinterpret iconic Clarks silhouettes through OpéraSPORT’s lens, merging craftsmanship, functionality, and modern expression. The OpéraSPORT x Clarks collaboration launches in early October 2026.



The collection is presented at H.C. Andersen Slottet in Tivoli, Copenhagen, in an immersive show that fuses Venetian-inspired theatricality with Tivoli’s historic spectacle culture. The cast combines street-cast talent with emerging and established faces, reflecting the brand’s commitment to individuality. Beauty is defined by clean, glowing skin with subtle warmth, created with Saie, while hair is styled by Hanna Ramirez using Iles Formula.

OpéraSPORT Fall/Winter 2026 launches online and in stores from August 2026.

Runway images by James Cochrane, courtesy  OpéraSPORT / Copenhagen Fashion Week.

Wednesday, 13 August 2025

Fashion Event: London Fashion Week to Return This September with Expanded Line-Up and Global Focus

London Fashion Week (LFW)* will return this autumn, running from 18 to 22 September, with an expanded schedule celebrating Britain’s bold creative voice and welcoming a new wave of talent. The British Fashion Council (BFC) has confirmed a line-up featuring both established names and rising designers, alongside a series of strategic changes aimed at strengthening the event’s cultural and commercial impact.

Burberry SS 2021

This season marks an 18 per cent increase in the number of designers showing on the official schedule, reflecting Chief Executive Laura Weir’s renewed focus on cultural relevance, global competitiveness, and meaningful support for emerging talent.

Among the changes, the BFC has waived show fees for designer members presenting physical shows on the main schedule and doubled investment in the LFW Guest Programme—supported by the Department for Business and Trade—to host a larger cohort of international press, buyers, and cultural commentators.

Emilia Wickstead

The provisional schedule includes fashion powerhouses such as Burberry, Erdem, Emilia Wickstead, Simone Rocha, and Roksanda—celebrating its 20th anniversary—alongside the influential talent incubator Fashion East, which marks its 25th year. 

Roksanda AW24

JW Anderson will host a special evening event in collaboration with the BFC to celebrate the brand’s relaunch, while BFC/Vogue Designer Fashion Fund winner Conner Ives will present a new collection. Cult label Chopova Lowena returns to the schedule, joined by Ahluwalia, Harris Reed, Labrum London, Marques’Almeida, Paolo Carzana, Patrick McDowell, Richard Quinn, Talia Byre, and Tove.

Simone Rocha AW24

The BFC NEWGEN programme will once again showcase emerging talent both physically and digitally, including Aaron Esh, Aletta, Charlie Constantinou, Ewusie, Johanna Parv, Karoline Vitto, Kazna Asker, Liza Keane, Louther, Lueder, Octi, Oscar Ouyang, Pauline Dujancourt, Steve O Smith, Tolu Coker, The Ouze, The Winter House, and Yaku. The Department for Culture, Media and Sport has reaffirmed its support for the BFC NEWGEN showspace at 180 Strand for the next four years.

This season will also feature retail-led activations bridging culture and commerce, with stylist Harry Lambert launching a Disney x Zara collection at Selfridges and H&M returning to the schedule with “The London Issue” catwalk.

International collaboration will be in the spotlight as celebrated Indian designer Anamika Khanna makes her LFW debut. Other first-time catwalk appearances include Dreaming Eli, Kseniaschnaider, and Rory William Docherty, while Kyle Ho, Lucila Safdie, and adaptive fashion brand Unhidden will debut with standalone presentations.

LFW will conclude on Monday evening with a closing party hosted by the BFC in partnership with Outlander magazine, supported by 1664 Blanc, which returns as Principal Partner for the second year. Other official partners include eBay, Dylon, Pandora, Sprayground, The Londoner, Toni&Guy, HM Government, and the Mayor of London, with Malin+Goetz and Ocean Outdoor confirmed as official supporters.

Click HERE for the London Fashion Week schedule.

*First established in 1984, London Fashion Week is one of the world’s “Big Four” fashion showcases, alongside New York, Milan, and Paris. Organised by the British Fashion Council, the biannual event presents collections from leading British and international designers to global media, buyers, and industry figures. Renowned for its creativity, innovation, and support for emerging talent, LFW has played a pivotal role in launching the careers of designers such as Alexander McQueen, Stella McCartney, and Christopher Kane, while cementing London’s reputation as a global hub for bold, forward-thinking fashion.




Friday, 8 August 2025

Copenhagen Fashion Week: Marimekko Showcases Bold Expression of Pattern and Heritage

Finnish fashion and lifestyle brand Marimekko unveiled its Spring/Summer 2026 collection in a  runway show that merged bold pattern expression with industrial performance art on August 7 at Copenhagen Fashion Week.


Staged in a former industrial site along Copenhagen’s harbour, the venue’s raw, utilitarian backdrop created a dynamic contrast to the vibrant, energetic summer collection. Known for its iconic prints and colours, Marimekko explored playful proportions and carefully balanced compositions in what the brand called a “performative expression of pattern.”

 

The SS26 collection draws deeply from the art of printmaking, with overlapping lines and layered textures forming ever-changing, human-made motifs. This visual rhythm was accompanied by a specially produced industrial soundscape, created from recordings at Marimekko’s textile printing factory in Helsinki and mixed by Finnish musician and artist YSI. The result was a multisensory experience that blurred the boundaries between fashion, art, and performance.


Creative Director Rebekka Bay described the collection as a transformation of familiar ideas into new, unexpected forms. 

“We re-formulate some of Marimekko’s most perennial styles and silhouettes and turn known ideas into something entirely new,” said Bay. “This is seen in a new version of the iconic Marimini dress from the 1960s — now reimagined as a playful summer co-ord set.”

The collection featured a vivid palette of pinks, greens, and summer blues — from peony and cherry blossom to hydrangea and spirulina — punctuated by accents of pistachio, peach, and zesty lemon. The garments created poetic interplay between femininity and pragmatism, mini and maxi, soft layering and utilitarian edge. Every look was paired with contrasting adidas Tokyo footwear, emphasizing the collection’s theme of unexpected harmony.

Central to the showcase was a celebration of the 70th anniversary of Marimekko’s most enduring design icon: the Jokapoika shirt, originally designed by Vuokko Eskolin-Nurmesniemi in 1956. Known for its genderless silhouette, distinctive silver buttons, and bold Piccolo stripe, the shirt was reintroduced with modern interpretations. Variations included cropped silhouettes, enlarged prints, multicolored designs, and utilitarian dresses — all while paying homage to the hand-painted origins of the Piccolo pattern, where overlapping brushstrokes create a unique third hue.


Founded in 1951, Marimekko remains globally recognized for its original prints and vibrant use of colour across fashion and home décor. With around 150 stores worldwide and an online presence in 35 countries, the brand continues to build on its legacy of artistic integrity and design innovation.


The SS26 show reaffirmed Marimekko’s place at the intersection of craft, culture, and contemporary style — celebrating its heritage while boldly pushing the boundaries of pattern and proportion.

All photos by James Cochrane, at Copenhagen Fashion Week SS26 edition.

Thursday, 7 August 2025

Copenhagen Fashion Week: Baum und Pferdgarten Unveils SS26 Collection “Notes from the Grandstand” at Historic Danish Racetrack

Danish fashion house Baum und Pferdgarten brought equestrian elegance to the runway with the debut of its Spring/Summer 2026 collection - Notes from the Grandstand - presented on 6 August at Copenhagen Fashion Week. The show took place at the Charlottenlund Travbane, the oldest racetrack in the Nordics, still active today and steeped in history — a fitting venue for a collection inspired by the world of the Derby.


Set between the old horse stables, the show highlighted the equestrian spirit that forms the heart of the collection. Creative Directors Rikke Baumgarten and Helle Hestehave drew on their lifelong connection to horses to create a collection that captures the atmosphere of the racetrack — from the sharp, functional uniforms of jockeys to the pageantry of guests dressed to impress.

“We were drawn to the sharp colour-blocking and purpose-driven silhouettes of jockeys — so bold, so functional, so instantly recognisable,” said Baumgarten and Hestehave. “And just as captivating were the guests, dressed to be seen from every angle. That tension between performance and pageantry gave us a rich foundation to explore character, contrast, and everything in between.”

Notes from the Grandstand is a study in contrasts. Sporting elements are reimagined through a refined, fashion-forward lens. Striped nylon nods to jockey uniforms, while checks and vibrant colour-blocking bring a sense of dynamic movement. Feminine details — such as frilled accents on outerwear and softly draped blouses — provide tension and elegance in equal measure.



The collection is also rich in texture and symbolic motifs: powder pink hues and faux suede accessories evoke composed drama, while horse rosettes and vintage lace reference equestrian tradition. Leopard prints and faux leather inject modern energy into the otherwise heritage-inspired lineup.

Silhouettes ranged from dropped-waist dresses to sharp, tailored pieces and fluid layering. The overall effect was one of graceful utility, grounded in tradition but reaching confidently into the contemporary.

The casting blended familiar faces and new talent, with models including Anaa Saber, Emma Rosenzweig, Eddie Klint, Bibi Abdulkadir, and Boy Ewald. Many have previously walked for the house, underscoring the brand’s ongoing dialogue between continuity and innovation.

Beauty direction was provided by M.A.C. Cosmetics Nordics, with hair by Oribe. A special runway-exclusive T-shirt was also introduced during the show, available for immediate purchase via Baum und Pferdgarten’s website and flagship Copenhagen boutique.

For Baumgarten and Hestehave, the show marked a personal return to their roots. Both designers grew up around horses, and this collection weaves their childhood memories of racetracks and stables into a rich visual narrative.

With Notes from the Grandstand, Baum und Pferdgarten continues to celebrate storytelling through fashion — where tradition meets transformation, and every garment is part of the show.

All photos by James Cochrane, at Copenhagen Fashion Week SS26 edition.

Wednesday, 6 August 2025

Copenhagen Fashion Week: Caro Editions Delivers a Love Letter With SS26 Show “Under the Bridge” - Featuring a Collaboration with Mulberry

Beneath the steel beams and cobblestones of Knippelsbro (Knippel Bridge in English) - a place steeped in personal history - Caro Editions unveiled its Spring/Summer 2026 collection with a show that was equal parts fashion, memory, and poetic resistance.

Caro Editios designer and founder Caroline Bille Brahe flanked by two of her models.
Copenhagen Fashion Week Photo by James Cochrane

Titled “Under the Bridge,” the presentation held on August 4 - day one of Copenhagen Fashion Week, marked a deeply intimate return for designers Caroline and Frederik Bille Brahe, who were married in this very spot. Years later, the bridge now served as the emotional and symbolic foundation for a show that explored the intersection of romance, public space, and soft rebellion.


In a raw, urban setting beneath one of Copenhagen’s busiest thoroughfares, Caro Editions built a dreamscape of tenderness and texture. Flowing silk dresses, hand-embroidered garments, and veiled silhouettes evoked memories of bridalwear, while simultaneously subverting traditional tropes. The bride here was not bound to convention — she was a symbol of visibility, activism, and individuality, inspired in part by Yoko Ono’s Brides on Tour.

“There’s lots of black, a first for me,” said Caroline Bille Brahe. “But also glorious colours and contrasts. I was thinking about wedding guests of all kinds — different ages, sizes, styles. Rich silks in workwear shapes. Comfortable, glamorous, real.”

One of the most talked-about moments was the finale: a bride in a lace hoodie, a silk windbreaker, and custom Crocs — Caro’s idea of a down-to-earth muse, ready to dance all night. This wasn’t a traditional wedding procession. It was a playful yet profound meditation on the joy of showing up — as yourself, in full colour.


Soundtracking the show was a custom composition by Frederik Valentin. His mix of punk and pop created a sonic collage, echoing the show’s nostalgic thread — a fragmented love story slowly unfolding into something melodic, emotional, even euphoric.

This season also saw a standout collaboration with British heritage brand Mulberry. In a celebration of reuse and reimagination, Caroline reworked vintage Mulberry bags into eight one-of-a-kind designs — adorned with Caro’s signature silk bows, embroidery, and contrasting linings. “In my generation, if your mother had a Mulberry bag, you were lucky,” Caroline recalled. “Now I’ve made my own — with the lining on the outside instead of hidden. It’s all about turning memory inside out.”


Founded in 2022, Caro Editions has quickly built a reputation for blending romantic nostalgia with modern ease. Often working with deadstock fabrics from Chanel, Dries Van Noten, and Harris Tweed, the label champions craft, sustainability, and individuality — always with a playful twist.

“I resist the idea of the Caro girl,” said Caroline. “I don’t want to put anyone in a box. I want people to fall in love with a piece of our world and make it their own. That’s the essence of Caro Editions.”



With Under the Bridge, the brand didn’t just deliver a fashion show — it delivered a love letter. To Copenhagen. To memory. To presence. And above all, to the quiet power of showing up — together.

All photos by James Cochrane, at Copenhagen Fashion Week SS26 edition.