Fashion and history: Jewish immigrants' contributions made London a "Fashion City" at Museum of London Docklands, now extended to July 7th 2024

Garment factories have been a significant part of London's industrial landscape, particularly in the 19th and early 20th centuries, when the city was a hub for textile manufacturing and garment production. Many immigrant entrepreneurs, including those of Jewish heritage, played key roles in establishing and operating
garment factories in London during this period. 
The 1917 photograph above of Schneider's Garment Factory showing the working life of
garment workers in the early 1900s.

Jewish immigrants arriving in London in the 1800s and early 1900s found abundant opportunities, notably in the clothing industry and accessories trade, significantly contributing to London's evolution into a fashion capital.  Exploring this rich historical narrative has been made accessible through the exhibition "Fashion City" at the Museum of London Docklands, now extended to July 7th 2024.

A short film shown at the start of the Fashion City exhibition explains the long history of Britain's Jewish population.  Many of them came as children during the Kindertransport rescue mission that took place in the months leading up to the outbreak of World War II, primarily in 1938 and 1939. It involved the organized evacuation of thousands of Jewish children from Nazi-occupied territories, particularly Germany, Austria, Czechoslovakia,
and Poland, to the safety of Great Britain.

This popular exhibition delves primarily into the intertwined narratives of Jewish immigrants in the East End of London, their impactful presence in the West End, and the enduring legacy of Jewish designers, makers, and retailers in London's fashion world. In addition to their commercial success, they brought diversity and creativity to London's fashion scene, drawing inspiration from their cultural heritage and experiences. 

Dr Lucie Whitmore, curator of the exhibition, explained in a recent interview with the BBC, the capital's garment business was "a really, really big story for people whose heritage is Jewish London".

"We really wanted to celebrate the fact that Jewish Londoners have operated in so many different segments of the industry," she said.

"In the exhibition we look at the importance of portable trades, so this idea that you can move with your business, you've always got of working and earning a living," Dr Whitmore explains.

"Sadly, the reality for Jewish people throughout a lot of history is that they had to move for safety, and having a portable skill is very good; you can set up and start making a living for yourself quite quickly."

Against the backdrop of escalating persecution and economic turmoil in Eastern Europe, Jewish immigrants sought refuge in the burgeoning industrial landscape of Britain, particularly in urban hubs like London during the mid-19th century.

This vanity case, known as "Tula," was crafted by Molmax, a company that boasted clientele from the UK, the US, and the Far East. A significant aspect of their operations involved manufacturing for esteemed retailers like Harrods and renowned brands such as Burberry, Dior, Aquascutum, Bloomingdale's, and Brooks Brothers.
Heinz Moldau, the founder of the business in London, hailed from a lineage of luggage artisans originally from Lemburg (now Lviv, Ukraine), who later resettled in Vienna during the 1890s. Their luggage factory in Vienna fell victim to Nazi seizure in the late 1930s. Heinz himself arrived in London through the Kindertransport rescue mission.

By the late 19th century, the Jewish community in London had become one of the largest in Europe.  According to various historical sources and estimates, the Jewish population in London increased from around 10,000 in the mid-19th century to over 150,000 by the early 20th century. The interwar period saw further growth and diversification of London's Jewish population, with immigrants arriving not only from Eastern Europe but also from other parts of the world, including Germany and Russia. By the 1930s, the Jewish population in London was estimated to be over 300,000.

The intricate frame of this bag exhibits the elaborate patterned silverwork characteristic of pieces crafted by Rosenthal, Jacob & Co., esteemed silversmiths of well-established Anglo-Jewish families. It is plausible that this bag once graced the possession of Queen Victoria or her daughter, Princess Louise.

Upon their arrival, many Jewish immigrants settled particularly in areas such as Whitechapel, Spitalfields, and Stepney.  Particularly streets around Houndsditch and Petticoat Lane to the east of the City were made famous by Jewish businesses.  The East End provided affordable housing and opportunities for employment in the burgeoning garment industry, which was flourishing due to the growth of the ready-to-wear clothing market.

Military boots from Morris Angel and Son of Shaftesbury Avenue
founded by Daniel Angel who hailed from a Jewish family with origins in Germany. The company specialized in providing bespoke military uniforms and accessories, catering to the needs of both civilian and military clientele, and continues today as Angels Costumes & Fancy Dress, run by a 7th generation of the family.

Structured chronologically, the exhibition highlights how the clothing industry and accessories trade became central to the livelihood of many Jewish immigrants.  While they often worked in sweatshops or small workshops, where they could utilise their skills in tailoring, sewing, and garment production.

Evening dresses and handbag by Sophie Rabin, a much sought-after dressmaker for bespoke fashion in London's West End.  Born in Poland, she came to London with her family in 1914 and settled in Whitechapel, living at the synagogue where her father worked.

The East End of London became a vibrant hub of Jewish culture and commerce. Synagogues, kosher food shops, and Jewish social institutions proliferated, creating a sense of community and solidarity among the immigrant population. Yiddish, the language spoken by many Eastern European Jews, could be heard in the streets, contributing to the area's distinctive cultural identity.

A shop window showcasing the tailoring skills and craftsmanship of Winston Giscombe, a talented tailor who worked for Julius & Co, a Jewish-owned tailoring family in Whitechapel in the 1950s.

The influence of Jewish immigrants extended beyond the East End, particularly into the West End of London, which is known for its upscale shopping districts and fashion scene. Jewish entrepreneurs and designers played a significant role in shaping the fashion landscape of London. They introduced innovative techniques, styles, and trends to the industry, contributing to London's reputation as a fashion capital.

Fashionable ensembles from the Konpy brand by Kessly of Kuperstein, founded by Charles Kupersten who was born in Warsaw.  He lived in Germany before moving to London around 1912.

In time, some immigrants ventured into entrepreneurship, establishing their own small clothing businesses. Some companies passed through multiple generation of Jewish families and even survive today. The contributions of Jewish designers, makers, and retailers ranged from establishing successful fashion houses to revolutionizing manufacturing processes. Jewish retailers like Cecil Gee, Chelsea Girl (which became River Island) and Wallis introduced new ways to sell garments and opened stores across the West End.

Some notable figures include Marks & Spencer founders Michael Marks and Thomas Spencer, who revolutionized retail practices and accessibility to quality clothing.  Michael Marks was born in Slonim, in present-day Belarus, then part of the Russian Empire, in 1859. He came from a Jewish family and immigrated to England in the late 19th century, seeking better opportunities. Marks'  partnership with Yorkshire-born Spencer began in 1894, and their business flourished and expanded rapidly across the UK. Exemplifying the immigrant experience and entrepreneurial spirit, they laid the foundation for one of the most enduring and influential retail brands in the United Kingdom, leaving an indelible mark on the country's retail landscape.

The roots of well-established retailer Moss Bros can also be traced back to Jewish immigrants. The company was founded by Moses (Moss) Moss in 1851 in Covent Garden, London. Moss, along with his brother Alfred, established a small clothing store initially catering to the needs of working-class men. They specialized in selling second-hand clothing, particularly uniforms, to the growing number of office workers and clerks in Victorian London.  Moss Bros also contributed significantly to London's fashion scene by establishing flagship stores in prominent locations, including Regent Street and Piccadilly Circus which became iconic landmarks in the city.  Furthermore, Moss Bros's involvement in the hire and sale of formal attire for special occasions further solidified its influence in the UK fashion industry. Over the years, Moss Bros has remained a prominent player in the UK retail landscape.

 A street of fashion retail shops in the Fashion City exhibition.

A major part of the Fashion City exhibition invites visitors to traverse through immersive recreations of street alleys, workshops, and retail establishments. From the glamorous boutiques of Carnaby Street to the bustling tailors of the East End during the Swinging Sixties, London's emergence as a global fashion powerhouse comes to life.

A video showing off hats by couture designer Otto Lucas who was born in Germany, but trained in Paris and Belin before moving to London in 1932.  
His parents remained in Germany and were killed in Nazi death camps.

Through displays, archive objects, film footage, photography, engaging oral histories and narratives, visitors uncover the tales of Jewish life, from education to employment, and those of fashion pioneers who ascended to prominence in their respective fields. These visionaries not only founded enduring retail chains that still grace the high streets of London but also clothed iconic figures such as David Bowie, Princess Diana, and Mick Jagger.

In essence, "Fashion City" offers a compelling exploration of the intertwined histories of Jewish immigrants and London's fashion scene, illuminating their profound influence on the city's cultural and economic landscape.

The Fashion City exhibition at the Museum of London Docklands is now extended to July 7th 2024.

Photos by Lucia Carpio.

Interior Design: WOW!house 2024 set to take place June 1 to July 4, at Design Centre, Chelsea Harbour, London

Mark your calendars for WOW!house 2024, the premier interior design event returning to Design Centre, Chelsea Harbour, London, running from Monday, June 4th, to Thursday, July 4th. 

As excitement mounts for this annual extravaganza, organizers pledge to elevate the standard for inspiration. Visitors will be wowed by 19 distinct full-scale rooms and outdoor spaces emerge along the Design Avenue, spanning an expansive 500 square meters within the Centre. Each of these spaces, crafted by esteemed interior designers in collaboration with globally renowned design brands and suppliers, promises unparalleled creativity, say organisers.

Claire German, CEO of Design Centre, Chelsea Harbour, expresses the mission of WOW!house 2024 succinctly, stating, “Our aim is to ignite a sense of wonder; to captivate and motivate by showcasing the extraordinary accomplishments achievable when our talented industry unites in such a bold and extraordinary manner.”

WOW!house 2024 will feature 19 rooms, including a collaboration between
The Rug Company and Ken Fulk who is acclaimed for his intricate interiors and conceptual spectacles that exude a remarkable flair for theatricality. With his inaugural collection for The Rug Company, Fulk (pictured above) pays homage to life's rituals. Each rug within the collection intricately captures the essence of art, music, nature, and introspection, transforming these inspirations into evocative motifs that adorn the fabric of his designs.
Photo by The Rug Company website.

Noteworthy among the highlights of WOW!house 2024 is the entrance foyer envisioned by Benedict Foley, incorporating fabrics and wallpaper from Zoffany, symbolizing a shared dedication to British craftsmanship and production. Drawing inspiration from Luchino Visconti's 1963 masterpiece "The Leopard," Foley evokes the ambiance of a 19th-century Risorgimento Sicilian palazzo, infused with the allure of Claudia Cardinale and Alain Delon. Additionally, Foley commissions a bespoke loop pile carpet from one of the few remaining highly skilled weavers in the UK, utilising British wool. Embracing the ethos of the Arts & Crafts movement, all elements of the room will find new life in an upcoming exhibition at Voysey House, Sanderson Design Group’s new UK headquarters, focusing on material integrity, historical inquiry, and a touch of whimsy. Foley asserts that good design should be referential, not reverential.

In another captivating collaboration, The Rug Company joins forces with designer Ken Fulk, renowned for his enchanting creations and a clientele that includes luminaries like Pharrell Williams, Gigi Hadid, and Dolce & Gabbana. The Dining Room, a product of their collaboration, draws inspiration from Fulk's design with The Rug Company, "A Life Reflected," inspired by the storytelling traditions of Delft and Azulejo tilework dating back to the 14th century. Set within a reinterpretation of William Morris' Green Dining Room at the V&A, the scene is set for a midsummer Sunday supper, celebrating individuality and the preservation of decorative arts traditions worldwide. Fulk describes the ambiance as that of a well-traveled Countess, regaling her younger artist admirers with tales of global adventures and unconventional romances, imbuing the space with an air of mystery and allure.

There will be a Jamb Primary Bedroom by Charlotte Fremantle and Will Fisher. Drawing inspiration from an exquisite Chippendale model, the focal point of this bedroom is a splendid four-poster bed adorned in 18th-century paisley fabric and delicate pleated linen skirts. The walls are enveloped in silk, gently tinted to a dusky rose hue.

Meanwhile, the House of Rohl Primary Bathroom, curated by Michaelis Boyd, promises a realm of enchantment and marvel. A hand-painted mural unfolds across four progressively intimate zones, where whimsical touches harmonize with the exquisite craftsmanship of House of Rohl’s fixtures, crafted in French brass and custom RAL colors, alongside a luxurious Victoria & Albert Taizu tub. The ambiance seamlessly intertwines elements of nature and culture with a refined sense of sophistication.

Step into the Colefax and Fowler Morning Room, where designer Lucy Hammond Giles, crowned House & Garden’s Interior Designer of the Year 2023, crafts an inviting sunlit haven. Adorned with walls cloaked in cheerful yellow Larsen linen and complemented by bespoke yellow curtains boasting couture intricacies, this space epitomizes the quintessential style of Sibyl Colefax & John Fowler, the UK's oldest interior decorating establishment.

Meanwhile, in the McKinnon and Harris Courtyard, designer Katharine Pooley transports visitors to a quintessentially British setting, reminiscent of a serene English garden in full summer bloom. At its heart stands a charming trellised tennis pavilion, offering a picturesque backdrop inspired by Wimbledon, perfectly accentuating the graceful contours of McKinnon and Harris' outdoor furniture collection.

Among the myriad of inspirational designs, there will be the Watts 1874 Legend Room envisioned by the esteemed Alidad, celebrated globally for his discerning eye for antiques and textiles. Additionally, be sure to explore the Dedar Salon crafted by Fosbury Architecture, renowned for their curation of the Italian Pavilion at the 2023 Venice Biennale of Architecture (Biennale Architettura 2023), brought to life by the collaborative efforts of Giacomo Ardesio, Alessandro Bonizzoni, Nicola Campri, Veronica Caprino, and Claudia Mainardi.   Also the Tissus d’Hélène Drawing Room by Guy Goodfellow, an enchanting realm where past and present converge seamlessly, infused with a delightful sense of whimsy and unexpected delights.

For more information on WOW!house and tickets, visit dcch.co.uk/wowhouse.

Culture and Art: American artist Dale Chihuly's glass sculptures will be featured during London Craft Week May 13 - 19 2024

The itinerary for London Craft Week (LCW)'s much-anticipated 10th-anniversary edition is ready to be revealed and will be officially launched to the public on Monday 25th March 2024 for booking of events.  The public can also follow @londoncraftweek to receive the latest updates as we draw closer to the festival.

Slated to take place across London from May 13th to 19th, 2024, LCW is marking a decade of creative exploration with this year's carefully curated lineup reflecting on the profound evolution of the craft sector over the past ten years. 

The work of renowned American artist Dale Chihuly
will be among the highlights of London Craft Week 2024.

It pays homage to the visionary artisans who have been instrumental in shaping this transformation, while also casting an eye toward the emerging trends and innovations that will shape the next chapter of craftsmanship.  Particularly worth noting are collaborations with an array of exceptionally talented artists and makers from around the globe, alongside London's esteemed cultural institutions and renowned brands.

Reflecting on the journey since its inception in 2015, Guy Salter, Chairman of LCW, shares, "It feels like just yesterday that The King & Queen launched the first London Craft Week.  Now, in our milestone tenth year, we welcome over 225,000 visitors to experience 520 events featuring 700 artists and makers.

"Our mission remains unwavering: to celebrate outstanding craftsmanship from across the UK and beyond, leveraging the vibrancy, diversity, and serendipity of our beloved city. In our own small way, I believe we have contributed to London's cultural tapestry and reinforced the significance of the craft."

In May this year, one of the key happenings of LCW will be an opportunity to admire the work of renowned American artist Dale Chihuly who is known throughout his illustrious 60-year career for utilising glass as his primary medium to explore the interaction of form with light and space. 

Within the grounds of the luxurious residential complex in Chelsea Barracks, located in Belgravia, London, will be the inaugural edition of the public art initiative "Modern Masters." This free outdoor programme will feature a selection of works by Chihuly, strategically positioned throughout the complex.  This first exhibition of "Modern Masters" invites the public to immerse themselves in Chihuly's captivating glass sculptures amidst the architectural splendor and public grounds of Belgravia.

Greeting visitors in the Grand Entrance of the V&A museum in London, is a spectacular chandelier by American artist Dale Chihuly,  suspended from the domed roof.

Chihuly is no stranger to London as his amazing work can currently be admired at the Victoria and Albert Museum (V & A) in South Kensington, London.  Adorning the Grand Entrance of the iconic museum, suspended from the domed roof is a spectacular chandelier, specifically crafted by Chihuly and his team.

Named the Rotunda Chandelier, this masterpiece is part of Chihuly's renowned "Chandelier" series, inspired by Venetian chandeliers. With its approximately 2000 components, comprising blown glass and steel, and weighing an impressive 1724 kilograms, it stands as the largest in the series, crafted in Seattle, USA.

And in May this year, as in previous years, in partnership with LCW, the V&A South Kensington will have a museum-wide programme featuring an array of events. Visitors can witness demonstrations spanning various galleries, from weaving to silversmithing, couture, ceramics, and woodwork. 

LCW will also host an international craft symposium, offering panel discussions and keynote speeches by leading figures in the field. Topics will include the expanded craft lexicon of the past decade, digital innovations, the legacy of skills passed through apprenticeships, and the intersection of craftsmanship with luxury.

Photos by Lucia Carpio

Fashion and Culture: NAOMI: In Fashion - 22 June 2024 – 6 April 2025 at the Victoria & Albert Museum in London

Renowned as a global icon in the realm of fashion, Naomi Campbell gracing magazine covers and leading prestigious catwalk shows has become synonymous with her illustrious career. 

The NAOMI: In Fashion exhibition presents Naomi's expansive collection of haute couture and top-tier ready-to-wear outfits, complemented by contributions from designer archives and selections from the V&A's own collection. In the image above, Naomi models one of her favourite ensembles by Alexander McQueen, surrounded by other notable designs. From left to right, we see creations by Nigerian designer Kenneth Ize, showcased at Paris Fashion Week; an elegant Alexander McQueen gown, worn at the 2019 Fashion Icon Awards; a timeless piece by Azzedine Alaïa; a sophisticated grey pantsuit and matching coat from the BOSS 2023 campaign; and the iconic Vivienne Westwood platform shoes, immortalised by her infamous catwalk stumble.
Photo by Dave Benett/Getty Images for the Victoria & Albert Museum 

Now, poised to take center stage at the Victoria & Albert Museum (V&A) in a major exhibition dedicated solely to her, the aura of her stardom is set to ascend to new heights. This week, the V&A has unveiled further details about NAOMI: In Fashion, supported by BOSS and slated to commence this summer, offering an immersive journey through Campbell's unparalleled four-decade-long journey as a fashion model and cultural luminary. 

Sonnet Stanfill, Senior Curator, Fashion, V&A, said: “Naomi Campbell’s extraordinary career intersects with the best of high fashion. She is recognised worldwide as a supermodel, activist, philanthropist, and creative collaborator, making her one of the most prolific and influential figures in contemporary culture. We’re delighted to be working with Naomi Campbell on this project and to celebrate her career with our audiences.”

Naomi Campbell said: “I’m honoured to be asked by the V&A to share my life in clothes with the world.
Photo (c) Steven Meisel

A pioneer in her field, Campbell's iconic prowess on the catwalk and her transformative collaborations with top fashion houses, publications, and renowned photographers have solidified her status as a perennial presence in the global fashion landscape. Beyond her runway feats, Campbell's influence extends into cultural leadership, activism, and advocacy for emerging creatives, transcending conventional boundaries of the fashion model role.

The V&A Museum stated that the "groundbreaking exhibition" had been crafted with the model's creative guidance and supervision. Campbell, now a mother of two and continuing to thrive, was among the pioneering individuals dubbed as a "supermodel" - a term reserved for models who have attained international fame - alongside her contemporaries Linda Evangelista, Cindy Crawford, Christy Turlington, and Claudia Schiffer.
As the sponsor of the exhibition, BOSS proudly showcases Naomi Campbell in its storefront window on
Regent Street in London.
Photo by Lucia Carpio

Developed in close collaboration with Campbell herself, NAOMI: In Fashion promises to be a groundbreaking exhibition, amplifying her voice and perspective. Drawing from Campbell's personal haute couture and ready-to-wear wardrobe spanning pivotal moments in her career, as well as contributions from designer archives and items from the V&A's collections, the exhibition will offer a comprehensive portrayal of her impact.

Courtesy Mugler Archives. Photo Victoria and Albert Museum, London

Among the highlights are a striking Thierry Mugler corset inspired by a car from 1989, a memorable ensemble from Sarah Burton's final Alexander McQueen show, a radiant Valentino outfit worn at the 2019 Met Gala, and the towering Vivienne Westwood platform shoes famously worn by Campbell during her iconic 1993 catwalk mishap. 

Courtesy Azzedine Alaïa Foundation. Photo Victoria and Albert Museum, London

Featuring approximately 100 looks and accessories representing the pinnacle of global haute couture, the exhibition will showcase designs by top designers and brands such as Alexander McQueen, Azzedine Alaïa, Burberry, Chanel, Dolce & Gabbana, Gianni and Donatella Versace, Jean Paul Gaultier, John Galliano, Karl Lagerfeld, Kenneth Ize, Torishéju Dumi, Valentino, Virgil Abloh, Vivienne Westwood, Yves Saint Laurent, and many more.

This exhibition showcases Naomi's extensive wardrobe of haute couture and leading ready-to-wear ensembles, supplemented by loans from designer archives and items from the V&A collection.  It delves into the amazing 40-year career of British fashion model.  Regarded as a pioneer in her field, Campbell's renowned ability to dominate the catwalk, coupled with her unique collaborations with major fashion houses, publications, and top photographers, ensure her enduring presence in both the fashion industry and the British cultural milieu.

Beyond her modeling feats, she extends her influence through cultural leadership, activism, and advocacy for emerging talents, transcending the conventional confines of the fashion model role.

Naomi Campbell behind the scenes in the fashion and textile department of the V&A Museum.

In addition to showcasing exquisite garments and fashion accessories, the exhibition places a significant emphasis on fashion photography. A curated selection of captivating imagery by esteemed photographers including Campbell Addy, Nick Knight, Peter Lindbergh, and Steven Meisel will be featured, curated by the British editor and stylist Edward Enninful OBE who was the editor-in-chief of British Vogue and the European editorial director of Condé Nast. 

Furthermore, the exhibition will pay tribute to Campbell's mentors, among them notable figures such as Nelson Mandela, whose advocacy inspired her to utilize her platform for social change. Campbell's commitment to equity dates back to her involvement with the Black Girls Coalition in 1989 and her prominent role in fronting the groundbreaking 'black issue' of Vogue Italia in 2007. Alongside Bethann Hardison and Iman, she has been a steadfast advocate for The Diversity Coalition since 2013, advocating for increased diversity on the catwalk.

Additionally, the exhibition will shine a spotlight on Campbell's ongoing support of emerging creatives, demonstrated through initiatives such as Arise Fashion Week and her global venture, EMERGE, established in 2022.

Interior Designs : London Design Week Chelsea Harbour 11 - 15 March 2024

London Design Week 2024 has kicked off at the Design Centre in Chelsea Harbour, London where a packed programme of events, including talks and workshops are scheduled for designers and design enthusiasts. 

Organisers said the programme of 100+ events has been curated to engage, inform and spark the imagination. 

There are also scores of free events  for visitors to enjoy in and around the showrooms at the Design Centre, from meet the designer sessions to workshops, new collection launches, alongside daily discovery tours around the exhibiting stands.

The Conversations in Design talks series offers access to the industry’s global A-listers including Sophie Ashby and Bunny Williams, as well as Grow Your Business sessions. 

Announcing a new collaboration is celebrated British designer and hotelier Kit Kemp who is launching her new collection with GP & J Baker.

"I am really looking forward to meeting my all-time design hero Bunny Williams, who is partnering with Paolo Moschino representing her furniture range in the UK. Bunny is a US design icon with a wealth of stories and knowledge of design, both inside and outside."

Meanwhile designer Suzy Hoodless is taking part in a Conversations in Design talk, Grow Your Business: Making Your Mark.

"I'm a huge fan of The Rug Company. The new showroom opening in the Design Centre is set to be an exciting launch, along with a new Paul Smith collection described as ‘classic with a twist’ with a contemporary take on the original designs," said Suzy.

Victoria Gray of Olvine is taking part in a panel discussion, The Secret of True Comfort, hosted by The English Home.

"I'm a huge fan of Tissus d'Hélène: Madeaux's new design, 'Hotchpotch' is great, and the new Nicole Fabre fabric collection is exciting, too. I can also never resist Samuel & Sons' showroom – it's a treasure trove," said Victoria.

Over at the Design Avenue is where visitors can see the show's pop-up House Guests, including Birdie Fortescue,  DKT Artworks, Eva Sonaike, Henry Blake, Holmes Bespoke, Madeaux and Patience & Gough. 

For full details of London Design Week and its full programme, click HERE.

Fashion Exhibition and Culture: "Sheer : The diaphanous creations of Yves Saint Laurent" all the rage in Paris

As exemplified by designer Anthony Vaccarello's latest collection for Saint Laurent and echoed in numerous shows (from Chloé and Courrèges to Givenchy) during this season's Paris Fashion Week, sheer and see-through fabrics have reemerged as a dominating trend for Autumn/Winter 2024 in the world of fashion.

"Sheer: The Diaphanous Creations of Yves Saint Laurent" (running until August 25 2024)
at the Musée Yves Saint Laurent in Paris 

Yves Saint Laurent championed the notion of transparency back in 1966 with his first see-through look and two years later his emblematic now-famous "see-through blouse," a chiffon creation provocatively worn without anything underneath as observed in the recent trends, highlighting the enduring impact of Yves Saint Laurent's designs with sheer fabrics retaining its powerful allure.

Vaccarello's emphasis on transparency serves as a connection between the past and present, prompting contemplation on the transformation of fashion aesthetics and societal norms.  In this autumn/winter 2024 collection, he prominently featured sheer fabrics, with a majority of models confidently showcasing bare breasts under translucent blouses, fitted T-shirts, and sleeveless tops. Some even adorned transparent pencil skirts, revealing high-legged knickers underneath.  The allure of Saint Laurent's designs has transcended the runway, captivating stars to don these daring creations on the red carpet during the current awards season.

The Musée Yves Saint Laurent in Paris is currently presenting a timely exhibition titled "Sheer: The Diaphanous Creations of Yves Saint Laurent" (running until August 25 2024). This exhibition spotlights the designer's groundbreaking exploration of transparency in fashion. In conjunction with concurrent exhibitions at the Fondation Louis Vuitton and Fondation Azzedine Alaïa, this cultural trifecta provides a distinctive diversion amid the vibrant activities of Paris Fashion Week.

Exhibition Catalogue
Forewords and essays: Elsa Janssen, Anne-Claire Laronde, Emilie Hammen, Shazia Boucher, Domitille Eblé, Judith Lamas, Alice Coulon-Saillard, Sophie Henwood. 
Graphic designer: Agnès Dahan. Photograph: Patricia Canino
Published by LIENART, 128 pages, 100 illustrations. On sale at the bookshop.

This exhibition signifies the second installment of a narrative that commenced last summer at the Museum of Lace and Fashion in Calais.  With curator Anne Dressen serving as its artistic advisor, the "Sheer" exhibition has been crafted by Pauline Marchetti, an architect whose work delves into the interplay of perception and space.

Featuring approximately 40 textile pieces, the exhibition showcases iconic Yves Saint Laurent creations, such as the groundbreaking topless blouse from spring-summer 1968 and the feather-belted dress. Additionally, it includes more distinctive pieces, some sourced from the SAINT LAURENT rive gauche collections.

Furthermore, the exhibition unveils previously undisclosed aspects of the creative process, including patterns on tracing paper and a collection of drawings by Yves Saint Laurent influenced by the paintings of Goya.

Fashion and Sport: Vogue World: Paris at the Place Vendôme, 23 June, ahead of the Olympics. "Mode et Sport" exhibition at Musée des Arts Décoratifs

It has been announced that this year's edition of Vogue World will take place in Paris at the iconic Place Vendôme, on Sunday 23 June, to kick off Paris Couture Week ahead of the Summer Olympics, 

The "Mode et Sport, d’un podium à l’autre (Fashion and Sport, from one podium to another)"  exhibition currently on show at the Musée des Arts Decoratifs in Paris until April 9th 2024.

In partnership with youth athletic academies across France, Vogue World: Paris is a visionary event that brings together each Olympic sport, including cycling, gymnastics, tennis, taekwondo, fencing, and break dancing, among others. This collaboration seamlessly weaves the essence of French fashion, highlighting distinctive themes from every decade since 1924, the year when Paris last hosted the Olympic Games.

The showcase will feature a diverse array of French designers, both contemporary and historical, along with renowned fashion houses that have traditionally unveiled their collections in Paris. Throughout the evening, attendees can anticipate unexpected live performances that punctuate the event with surprise and excitement. 

Vogue World: Paris promises to be a unique fusion of athletic prowess and iconic French fashion, creating an unforgettable experience.

"I am delighted that Vogue World has found its third home here in Paris. If Vogue World: New York was a street fair, and Vogue World: London was a glamorous night at the theatre – supporting arts and cultural organisations in London – Paris will be a kind of opening ceremony; one that celebrates 100 years of fashion and sport, as well as this extraordinary city,” announced Anna Wintour, Chief Content Officer, Condé Nast, and Global Editorial Director, Vogue.

At a cursory glance, sports and fashion appear to inhabit divergent realms – one characterised by elegance, the other by performance. However, a current exhibition at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs in Paris challenges this perceived dichotomy by illuminating the intimate connection between Sport and Fashion. Many historians pinpoint the genesis of modern sports to the early 19th century, marked by the codification of various sports disciplines.

Since 1912, Olympic Games host cities have been mandated to actively promote the event. The inaugural original poster emerged in Stockholm, above left, created by Olie Hjortzberg in 1912. Drawing inspiration from antiquity, Hjortzberg's illustrations portrayed unclothed athletes showcasing prominent musculature. Deemed too audacious, the image underwent revision, with strategically placed streamers introduced to obscure the central figures' nudity.
As for the1924 Paris Games official poster, above right, designed by Jean Droit, shirtless men proudly displayed their robust physiques, yet strategically draped fabric delicately covered their hips. This design simultaneously evoked classical antiquity while upholding a sense of revered modesty. Notably, the uniformly depicted white male athletes mirrored the Euro-centric perspective prevalent in that era's Games, which saw minimal participation from women.

Notes from the exhibition "Mode et Sport, d'un podium à l'autre (Fashion and Sport, from one podium to another)" - currently on show until April 7 2024 at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs in Paris - reveal that the conceptualisation of specialised sportswear began in late 19th century, coinciding with the introduction of competition and performance in sports. 

However, it wasn't until the 1920s that the sportswear market experienced significant growth. The period between the two world wars marked a transformative connection between fashion and the world of sports, as prominent couture houses adorned both Parisian socialites and female sports champions.

The sporty aesthetic gained public admiration, prompting fashion to swiftly adapt and adopt a more casual tone after the First World War. 

In 1933, René Lacoste, collaborating with hosier André Gillier, introduced the iconic "Lacoste shirt." Notably, the polo shirt, initially favoured by polo players, had already transitioned into fashionable vacation attire by 1930, earning the moniker "Antibes-shirt" by Coco Chanel.  Lacoste's significant contribution lay in producing it from petit piqué, a honeycomb cotton knit that not only absorbed sweat but also facilitated optimal breathability for the wearer's comfort.

Designs and fabrics originally tailored for athletes seamlessly integrated into everyday wardrobes, often causing their athletic origins to be overlooked.  For example, in 1933, French tennis player René Lacoste, having retired from competitive sports, embarked on the establishment of his sporting goods company. Collaborating with hosier André Gillier, he introduced the iconic "Lacoste shirt." This innovative design featured short sleeves, enabling enhanced freedom of movement, while the ribbed collar, both elegant and practical, could be raised to shield the neck from sunburn. Notably, the polo shirt, initially favoured by polo players, had already transitioned into fashionable vacation attire by 1930, earning the moniker "Antibes-shirt" by Coco Chanel. Lacoste's significant contribution lay in producing it from petit piqué, a honeycomb cotton knit that not only absorbed sweat but also facilitated optimal breathability for the wearer's comfort.

French designer André Courrèges 's Sweatshirt in cotton jersey with machine embroidery
from the "Hyperbole" S/S 1978 collection.

These shifts in attire played a role in shaping evolving societal norms, as the influence of sports contributed to the emancipation of women, gradually softening the limits of modesty. The ongoing pursuit of comfort emerged as a recurrent theme in the history of fashion. 

Ski-suit in polyester, Gore-Tex and polyamide, designed by Jean-Charles de Castelbajac
for winter sports brand Rossignol 2005. 

Sportswear, consistently innovative, continues to lead the way with items like polos, trainers, tracksuits, baseball caps, puffer jackets, and leggings, now commonplace in everyone's wardrobe. From the gym to the street, and from the podium to the catwalk, the intertwined history of fashion and sports illuminates the contemporary dressing habits we embrace today.

Vogue World: Paris  will be live streamed from Paris at 2pm EST / 8pm CET on 23 June.

Photos of «Mode et sport, d’un podium à l’autre» - an exhibition running until April 9th 2024 at the Musée des Arts Decoratifs, Paris - by Lucia Carpio

Fashion Catwalk: Belgian designer Ariane Theunissen AW24 collection emphasises Cut and Volume

Belgian designer Ariane Theunissen's Autumn-Winter 2024 collection continues to explore the image of a liberated woman through strong, in entirely monochrome looks. 

It remains faithful to the brand's refined, sensual image, while bringing a breath of modernity to women's ready-to-wear.

This season, Belgian designer Ariane Theunissen emphasises cut and volume, revealing the power of her silhouettes at her catwalk show presented at the Palais de Tokyo during this Paris Fashion Week.

Ariane plays with transparency, combined with sculptural cuts to emphasize a shapely silhouette, contrasted with faux-furs and giant hats.

The designer explains the aim with this THEUNISSEN AW24 collection is to appropriate the clichés of a sometimes austere bourgeoisie, and play with them, by placing more daring garments revealing feminine curves. 

Photos from THEUNISSEN/Totem Fashion.