Fashion and history: Jewish immigrants' contributions made London a "Fashion City" at Museum of London Docklands, now extended to July 7th 2024

Garment factories have been a significant part of London's industrial landscape, particularly in the 19th and early 20th centuries, when the city was a hub for textile manufacturing and garment production. Many immigrant entrepreneurs, including those of Jewish heritage, played key roles in establishing and operating
garment factories in London during this period. 
The 1917 photograph above of Schneider's Garment Factory showing the working life of
garment workers in the early 1900s.

Jewish immigrants arriving in London in the 1800s and early 1900s found abundant opportunities, notably in the clothing industry and accessories trade, significantly contributing to London's evolution into a fashion capital.  Exploring this rich historical narrative has been made accessible through the exhibition "Fashion City" at the Museum of London Docklands, now extended to July 7th 2024.

A short film shown at the start of the Fashion City exhibition explains the long history of Britain's Jewish population.  Many of them came as children during the Kindertransport rescue mission that took place in the months leading up to the outbreak of World War II, primarily in 1938 and 1939. It involved the organized evacuation of thousands of Jewish children from Nazi-occupied territories, particularly Germany, Austria, Czechoslovakia,
and Poland, to the safety of Great Britain.

This popular exhibition delves primarily into the intertwined narratives of Jewish immigrants in the East End of London, their impactful presence in the West End, and the enduring legacy of Jewish designers, makers, and retailers in London's fashion world. In addition to their commercial success, they brought diversity and creativity to London's fashion scene, drawing inspiration from their cultural heritage and experiences. 

Dr Lucie Whitmore, curator of the exhibition, explained in a recent interview with the BBC, the capital's garment business was "a really, really big story for people whose heritage is Jewish London".

"We really wanted to celebrate the fact that Jewish Londoners have operated in so many different segments of the industry," she said.

"In the exhibition we look at the importance of portable trades, so this idea that you can move with your business, you've always got of working and earning a living," Dr Whitmore explains.

"Sadly, the reality for Jewish people throughout a lot of history is that they had to move for safety, and having a portable skill is very good; you can set up and start making a living for yourself quite quickly."

Against the backdrop of escalating persecution and economic turmoil in Eastern Europe, Jewish immigrants sought refuge in the burgeoning industrial landscape of Britain, particularly in urban hubs like London during the mid-19th century.

This vanity case, known as "Tula," was crafted by Molmax, a company that boasted clientele from the UK, the US, and the Far East. A significant aspect of their operations involved manufacturing for esteemed retailers like Harrods and renowned brands such as Burberry, Dior, Aquascutum, Bloomingdale's, and Brooks Brothers.
Heinz Moldau, the founder of the business in London, hailed from a lineage of luggage artisans originally from Lemburg (now Lviv, Ukraine), who later resettled in Vienna during the 1890s. Their luggage factory in Vienna fell victim to Nazi seizure in the late 1930s. Heinz himself arrived in London through the Kindertransport rescue mission.

By the late 19th century, the Jewish community in London had become one of the largest in Europe.  According to various historical sources and estimates, the Jewish population in London increased from around 10,000 in the mid-19th century to over 150,000 by the early 20th century. The interwar period saw further growth and diversification of London's Jewish population, with immigrants arriving not only from Eastern Europe but also from other parts of the world, including Germany and Russia. By the 1930s, the Jewish population in London was estimated to be over 300,000.

The intricate frame of this bag exhibits the elaborate patterned silverwork characteristic of pieces crafted by Rosenthal, Jacob & Co., esteemed silversmiths of well-established Anglo-Jewish families. It is plausible that this bag once graced the possession of Queen Victoria or her daughter, Princess Louise.

Upon their arrival, many Jewish immigrants settled particularly in areas such as Whitechapel, Spitalfields, and Stepney.  Particularly streets around Houndsditch and Petticoat Lane to the east of the City were made famous by Jewish businesses.  The East End provided affordable housing and opportunities for employment in the burgeoning garment industry, which was flourishing due to the growth of the ready-to-wear clothing market.

Military boots from Morris Angel and Son of Shaftesbury Avenue
founded by Daniel Angel who hailed from a Jewish family with origins in Germany. The company specialized in providing bespoke military uniforms and accessories, catering to the needs of both civilian and military clientele, and continues today as Angels Costumes & Fancy Dress, run by a 7th generation of the family.

Structured chronologically, the exhibition highlights how the clothing industry and accessories trade became central to the livelihood of many Jewish immigrants.  While they often worked in sweatshops or small workshops, where they could utilise their skills in tailoring, sewing, and garment production.

Evening dresses and handbag by Sophie Rabin, a much sought-after dressmaker for bespoke fashion in London's West End.  Born in Poland, she came to London with her family in 1914 and settled in Whitechapel, living at the synagogue where her father worked.

The East End of London became a vibrant hub of Jewish culture and commerce. Synagogues, kosher food shops, and Jewish social institutions proliferated, creating a sense of community and solidarity among the immigrant population. Yiddish, the language spoken by many Eastern European Jews, could be heard in the streets, contributing to the area's distinctive cultural identity.

A shop window showcasing the tailoring skills and craftsmanship of Winston Giscombe, a talented tailor who worked for Julius & Co, a Jewish-owned tailoring family in Whitechapel in the 1950s.

The influence of Jewish immigrants extended beyond the East End, particularly into the West End of London, which is known for its upscale shopping districts and fashion scene. Jewish entrepreneurs and designers played a significant role in shaping the fashion landscape of London. They introduced innovative techniques, styles, and trends to the industry, contributing to London's reputation as a fashion capital.

Fashionable ensembles from the Konpy brand by Kessly of Kuperstein, founded by Charles Kupersten who was born in Warsaw.  He lived in Germany before moving to London around 1912.

In time, some immigrants ventured into entrepreneurship, establishing their own small clothing businesses. Some companies passed through multiple generation of Jewish families and even survive today. The contributions of Jewish designers, makers, and retailers ranged from establishing successful fashion houses to revolutionizing manufacturing processes. Jewish retailers like Cecil Gee, Chelsea Girl (which became River Island) and Wallis introduced new ways to sell garments and opened stores across the West End.

Some notable figures include Marks & Spencer founders Michael Marks and Thomas Spencer, who revolutionized retail practices and accessibility to quality clothing.  Michael Marks was born in Slonim, in present-day Belarus, then part of the Russian Empire, in 1859. He came from a Jewish family and immigrated to England in the late 19th century, seeking better opportunities. Marks'  partnership with Yorkshire-born Spencer began in 1894, and their business flourished and expanded rapidly across the UK. Exemplifying the immigrant experience and entrepreneurial spirit, they laid the foundation for one of the most enduring and influential retail brands in the United Kingdom, leaving an indelible mark on the country's retail landscape.

The roots of well-established retailer Moss Bros can also be traced back to Jewish immigrants. The company was founded by Moses (Moss) Moss in 1851 in Covent Garden, London. Moss, along with his brother Alfred, established a small clothing store initially catering to the needs of working-class men. They specialized in selling second-hand clothing, particularly uniforms, to the growing number of office workers and clerks in Victorian London.  Moss Bros also contributed significantly to London's fashion scene by establishing flagship stores in prominent locations, including Regent Street and Piccadilly Circus which became iconic landmarks in the city.  Furthermore, Moss Bros's involvement in the hire and sale of formal attire for special occasions further solidified its influence in the UK fashion industry. Over the years, Moss Bros has remained a prominent player in the UK retail landscape.

 A street of fashion retail shops in the Fashion City exhibition.

A major part of the Fashion City exhibition invites visitors to traverse through immersive recreations of street alleys, workshops, and retail establishments. From the glamorous boutiques of Carnaby Street to the bustling tailors of the East End during the Swinging Sixties, London's emergence as a global fashion powerhouse comes to life.

A video showing off hats by couture designer Otto Lucas who was born in Germany, but trained in Paris and Belin before moving to London in 1932.  
His parents remained in Germany and were killed in Nazi death camps.

Through displays, archive objects, film footage, photography, engaging oral histories and narratives, visitors uncover the tales of Jewish life, from education to employment, and those of fashion pioneers who ascended to prominence in their respective fields. These visionaries not only founded enduring retail chains that still grace the high streets of London but also clothed iconic figures such as David Bowie, Princess Diana, and Mick Jagger.

In essence, "Fashion City" offers a compelling exploration of the intertwined histories of Jewish immigrants and London's fashion scene, illuminating their profound influence on the city's cultural and economic landscape.

The Fashion City exhibition at the Museum of London Docklands is now extended to July 7th 2024.

Photos by Lucia Carpio.