Monday 4 March 2024

Fashion Exhibition and Culture: "Sheer : The diaphanous creations of Yves Saint Laurent" all the rage in Paris

As exemplified by designer Anthony Vaccarello's latest collection for Saint Laurent and echoed in numerous shows (from Chloé and Courrèges to Givenchy) during this season's Paris Fashion Week, sheer and see-through fabrics have reemerged as a dominating trend for Autumn/Winter 2024 in the world of fashion.

"Sheer: The Diaphanous Creations of Yves Saint Laurent" (running until August 25 2024)
at the Musée Yves Saint Laurent in Paris 

Yves Saint Laurent championed the notion of transparency back in 1966 with his first see-through look and two years later his emblematic now-famous "see-through blouse," a chiffon creation provocatively worn without anything underneath as observed in the recent trends, highlighting the enduring impact of Yves Saint Laurent's designs with sheer fabrics retaining its powerful allure.

Vaccarello's emphasis on transparency serves as a connection between the past and present, prompting contemplation on the transformation of fashion aesthetics and societal norms.  In this autumn/winter 2024 collection, he prominently featured sheer fabrics, with a majority of models confidently showcasing bare breasts under translucent blouses, fitted T-shirts, and sleeveless tops. Some even adorned transparent pencil skirts, revealing high-legged knickers underneath.  The allure of Saint Laurent's designs has transcended the runway, captivating stars to don these daring creations on the red carpet during the current awards season.

The Musée Yves Saint Laurent in Paris is currently presenting a timely exhibition titled "Sheer: The Diaphanous Creations of Yves Saint Laurent" (running until August 25 2024). This exhibition spotlights the designer's groundbreaking exploration of transparency in fashion. In conjunction with concurrent exhibitions at the Fondation Louis Vuitton and Fondation Azzedine Alaïa, this cultural trifecta provides a distinctive diversion amid the vibrant activities of Paris Fashion Week.


Exhibition Catalogue
Forewords and essays: Elsa Janssen, Anne-Claire Laronde, Emilie Hammen, Shazia Boucher, Domitille Eblé, Judith Lamas, Alice Coulon-Saillard, Sophie Henwood. 
Graphic designer: Agnès Dahan. Photograph: Patricia Canino
Published by LIENART, 128 pages, 100 illustrations. On sale at the bookshop
.

This exhibition signifies the second installment of a narrative that commenced last summer at the Museum of Lace and Fashion in Calais.  With curator Anne Dressen serving as its artistic advisor, the "Sheer" exhibition has been crafted by Pauline Marchetti, an architect whose work delves into the interplay of perception and space.

Featuring approximately 40 textile pieces, the exhibition showcases iconic Yves Saint Laurent creations, such as the groundbreaking topless blouse from spring-summer 1968 and the feather-belted dress. Additionally, it includes more distinctive pieces, some sourced from the SAINT LAURENT rive gauche collections.

Furthermore, the exhibition unveils previously undisclosed aspects of the creative process, including patterns on tracing paper and a collection of drawings by Yves Saint Laurent influenced by the paintings of Goya.


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