It has been announced that this year's edition of Vogue World will take place in Paris at the iconic Place Vendôme, on Sunday 23 June, to kick off Paris Couture Week ahead of the Summer Olympics,
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| The "Mode et Sport, d’un podium à l’autre (Fashion and Sport, from one podium to another)" exhibition currently on show at the Musée des Arts Decoratifs in Paris until April 9th 2024. |
In partnership with youth athletic academies across France, Vogue World: Paris is a visionary event that brings together each Olympic sport, including cycling, gymnastics, tennis, taekwondo, fencing, and break dancing, among others. This collaboration seamlessly weaves the essence of French fashion, highlighting distinctive themes from every decade since 1924, the year when Paris last hosted the Olympic Games.
The showcase will feature a diverse array of French designers, both contemporary and historical, along with renowned fashion houses that have traditionally unveiled their collections in Paris. Throughout the evening, attendees can anticipate unexpected live performances that punctuate the event with surprise and excitement.
Vogue World: Paris promises to be a unique fusion of athletic prowess and iconic French fashion, creating an unforgettable experience.
"I am delighted that Vogue World has found its third home here in Paris. If Vogue World: New York was a street fair, and Vogue World: London was a glamorous night at the theatre – supporting arts and cultural organisations in London – Paris will be a kind of opening ceremony; one that celebrates 100 years of fashion and sport, as well as this extraordinary city,” announced Anna Wintour, Chief Content Officer, Condé Nast, and Global Editorial Director, Vogue.
At a cursory glance, sports and fashion appear to inhabit divergent realms – one characterised by elegance, the other by performance. However, a current exhibition at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs in Paris challenges this perceived dichotomy by illuminating the intimate connection between Sport and Fashion. Many historians pinpoint the genesis of modern sports to the early 19th century, marked by the codification of various sports disciplines.
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| Since 1912, Olympic Games host cities have been mandated to actively promote the event. The inaugural original poster emerged in Stockholm, above left, created by Olie Hjortzberg in 1912. Drawing inspiration from antiquity, Hjortzberg's illustrations portrayed unclothed athletes showcasing prominent musculature. Deemed too audacious, the image underwent revision, with strategically placed streamers introduced to obscure the central figures' nudity. As for the1924 Paris Games official poster, above right, designed by Jean Droit, shirtless men proudly displayed their robust physiques, yet strategically draped fabric delicately covered their hips. This design simultaneously evoked classical antiquity while upholding a sense of revered modesty. Notably, the uniformly depicted white male athletes mirrored the Euro-centric perspective prevalent in that era's Games, which saw minimal participation from women. |
Notes from the exhibition "Mode et Sport, d'un podium à l'autre (Fashion and Sport, from one podium to another)" - currently on show until April 7 2024 at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs in Paris - reveal that the conceptualisation of specialised sportswear began in late 19th century, coinciding with the introduction of competition and performance in sports.
However, it wasn't until the 1920s that the sportswear market experienced significant growth. The period between the two world wars marked a transformative connection between fashion and the world of sports, as prominent couture houses adorned both Parisian socialites and female sports champions.
The sporty aesthetic gained public admiration, prompting fashion to swiftly adapt and adopt a more casual tone after the First World War.
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| In 1933, René Lacoste, collaborating with hosier André Gillier, introduced the iconic "Lacoste shirt." Notably, the polo shirt, initially favoured by polo players, had already transitioned into fashionable vacation attire by 1930, earning the moniker "Antibes-shirt" by Coco Chanel. Lacoste's significant contribution lay in producing it from petit piqué, a honeycomb cotton knit that not only absorbed sweat but also facilitated optimal breathability for the wearer's comfort. |
Designs and fabrics originally tailored for athletes seamlessly integrated into everyday wardrobes, often causing their athletic origins to be overlooked. For example, in 1933, French tennis player René Lacoste, having retired from competitive sports, embarked on the establishment of his sporting goods company. Collaborating with hosier André Gillier, he introduced the iconic "Lacoste shirt." This innovative design featured short sleeves, enabling enhanced freedom of movement, while the ribbed collar, both elegant and practical, could be raised to shield the neck from sunburn. Notably, the polo shirt, initially favoured by polo players, had already transitioned into fashionable vacation attire by 1930, earning the moniker "Antibes-shirt" by Coco Chanel. Lacoste's significant contribution lay in producing it from petit piqué, a honeycomb cotton knit that not only absorbed sweat but also facilitated optimal breathability for the wearer's comfort.
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| French designer André Courrèges 's Sweatshirt in cotton jersey with machine embroidery from the "Hyperbole" S/S 1978 collection. |
These shifts in attire played a role in shaping evolving societal norms, as the influence of sports contributed to the emancipation of women, gradually softening the limits of modesty. The ongoing pursuit of comfort emerged as a recurrent theme in the history of fashion.
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| Ski-suit in polyester, Gore-Tex and polyamide, designed by Jean-Charles de Castelbajac for winter sports brand Rossignol 2005. |
Sportswear, consistently innovative, continues to lead the way with items like polos, trainers, tracksuits, baseball caps, puffer jackets, and leggings, now commonplace in everyone's wardrobe. From the gym to the street, and from the podium to the catwalk, the intertwined history of fashion and sports illuminates the contemporary dressing habits we embrace today.
Vogue World: Paris will be live streamed from Paris at 2pm EST / 8pm CET on 23 June.
Photos of «Mode et sport, d’un podium à l’autre» - an exhibition running until April 9th 2024 at the Musée des Arts Decoratifs, Paris - by Lucia Carpio
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