Menswear: Jan-Jan Van Essche 's PRĀNA SS24 collection presented in Paris

Timeless clothing inspired by the worlds collective culture continues to be Antwerp designer Jan-Jan van Essche's ethos as evidenced once again in his latest PRĀNA SS24 collection,  an energetic wardrobe of newly developed shapes for the individual mind, searching alternative ways of progress.

This year, Antwerp designer Jan-Jan van Essche purposely decided to keep things intimate. Together with creative artisanal platform LUCENTEMENT, Jan-Jan van Essche held a confidential cocktail, in which he brought his closest surroundings, retailers, other designers and a select number of editors together to celebrate his SS24 collection.

Centered around the things that matter, JJVE brought show attendees back to the core essence of his work as an act to stay true to his values, not by following trends while moving at his own pace. 

Attendees could experience JJVE's latest collection in his showroom in the  Paris Marais district where clothes are made out of natural fibers in a range of natural dyes, and hung on his hand-made bamboo racks, while enjoying a subliminally crafted cocktail. 

JJVE brought together a range of disciplines in order to celebrate craftsmanship and artisanal fashion.

Carefully engineered garments, inviting a new flow, ready to align with the current and future challenges we all face collectively. Subtlety, modernity and elegance as a path to a new manifestation, while staying true to the Jan-Jan Van Essche silhouette.

The designer opts for uplifting mid tones combined with deep blacks and a natural Indigo silk screen print, developed in Kyoto, Japan. Apart from Indigo, other natural dyes such as Ume (Japanese plum), Kakishibu (persimmon fruit) and Gall nuts are used to diversify the colour palette.

Once again refined fabrics are sourced and skillfully developed in various regions in Japan, from small artisanal weaving mills. Various structures and textures from washi (paper fiber), silks, hemps, linens and cottons are blend together, resulting into a variety of cloths of extreme comfort and tactility.

A knitted series of lightweight and transparent linen/cotton tops, function as cooling under layers, while heavier jacquard sweaters isolate the body during the spring months. 

The PRĀNA wardrobe is an invitation to explore the luxury of comfort of the Jan-Jan Van Essche’s contemporary and breathable shapes.

Images courtesy of Jan-Jan van Essche

Menswear: Walter Van Beirendonck 's DAWLEETOO the Legendary Lost City collection

Belgian designer Walter Van Beirendonck's SS24 DAWLEETOO collection delved into his discovery of memories, history and art, that have filled his research notebook with drawings, collages and pictorial images, blurring the boundary between real and surreal, presented during Men’s Paris Fashion Week. 

The designer had taken inspiration from DAWLEETOO -  the Legendary Lost City - turning to AI to explore the boundaries of reality at the edge of the Sumatran jungles, 

“I love to research. That’s how I always start,” said Walter Van Beirendonck.

The designer juxtaposed between hard and soft materials, Playing with voluminous versus body-skimming silhouettes. Protection versus transparency. Monochromatic versus bi-colours: red/white, black/yellow, a shot of lime green and multi-colours even.

Note the oversized see-through blazers, vinyl raincoats, and bomber jackets with over-padded shoulders covering soft garments worn underneath. 

There are also large ruffles and other funky shapes to bemuse the audience.  A delightfully fun collection that challenges the consumer of today.

Photos courtesy of Walter Van Beirendonck.

Exhibition: REBEL: 30 Years of London Fashion to be launched at Design Museum

REBEL: 30 Years of London Fashion - sponsored by Alexander McQueen - will be the first major exhibition to tell the story of hundreds of fearless young designers who have transformed the fashion landscape, bringing together exuberant, rebellious and radical garments. 

It is billed as a landmark collaboration with the British Fashion Council (BFC) and will celebrate the 30th anniversary of the BFC’s NEWGEN programme, an initiative that supports the best emerging fashion design talent and aims to build global, high-end brands of the future.

Slated for September 16 2023 to February 11 2024, the show will coincide with London Fashion Week, featuring nearly 100 innovative fashion looks from ground-breaking debut and early collections, many of which have entered pop-culture history — and launched global design careers.

Highlights will include the swan dress controversially worn by Björk at the 2001 Oscars, Harry Styles’ Steven Stokey Daley outfit from his video for ‘Golden’ and a unique replica of Sam Smith's inflatable latex suit by HARRI from this year’s BRIT Awards.  Collections and work by JW Anderson, Wales Bonner, Erdem, Molly Goddard, Christopher Kane, Simone Rocha, Russell Sage, and many more will also be featured.  

These items will be shown alongside films, drawings, memorabilia and never-before-seen archive material from some of the most well-known contemporary UK-based designers.

The Design Museum announced that tickets are now on sale.

Exhibition: NOW Gallery presents Simone Brewster's bold designs

Designer, architect and visual artist Simone Brewster’s new design commission The Shape of Things is now open for viewing at the NOW Gallery in London’s Greenwich Peninsula, until September 24, 2023.

Simone Brewster with some of her paintings.

The exhibition presents new works alongside a selection of Simone’s most notable pieces, from paintings to furniture, jewellery and sculpture that investigate the hidden linguistics behind design that are inherently entwined with societal norms and ideas of race, gender, equality and more,  displaying Brewster’s signature bold style of both ethnic and architectural elements.

Tropical Noire, a series of vessels by Simone Brewster that reference the totemic statues and
traditional Greek vessels, as well as Sub Saharan African sculpture and colonial artefacts. 

As part of the African Diaspora, Brewster’s work marries Western and African visual languages, bridging the gap between these histories, and the material shapes and forms that are imbued with cultural history and tradition. These dialogues of heritage, memory, race, gender, tradition and form are embodied in some of the key centrepieces of the exhibition.

The Shape of Things encourages the viewers to reconsider their perception of everyday objects and the way we interact with them. 

As a part of the display, Brewster presents a chaise lounge titled Negress (shown above) which embodies a Modernist perspective on a deconstructed view of the Black female body, referencing and questioning the Primitivist and Cubist interpretation of the subject. The piece was acquired by the Smithsonian in 2022 and invites the viewer to re-examine their ways of interacting with the uncanny form of the chaise lounge.

In addition to this, Brewster will showcase a series of vessels, titled Tropical Noire, that reference the totemic statues and traditional Greek vessels, as well as Sub Saharan African sculpture and colonial artefacts. 

Brewster is particularly invested in the tensions between the objects, architectural spaces and the viewer, looking at the way race, gender, memory and personal histories shape our understanding of design.
The quietly political designs raise significant issues regarding race, gender and visibility in design and architecture spaces while celebrating Black British design and African heritage.

The jewellery from the exhibition is also available to purchase from early next week and the exhibition invites participants to create their own artworks by using stamps designed by Brewster that echo the bold shapes of the sculptural pieces in the exhibition.

Brewster's work has been exhibited at the British Embassy during the London 2012 Olympic Games as an example of British Design Talent; as well as at The Royal College of Art 175 Year Anniversary Exhibition; Collect at the Saatchi Gallery, amongst many other domestic and international exhibitions.

The collection clearly displays Brewster’s signature bold style of both ethnic and architectural elements which are also echoed across her paintings, drawings and jewellery showcased as a part of the exhibition.

All images by Charles Emerson 

Textile news: Italian lace producer's latest collection themed around three strong women

The new Autumn/Winter 24/25 collection of elastic lace producer Iluna Group in Italy has been inspired by three women who have made their mark in history and in fashion.  They are namely: Madame De Pompadour, Luisa Amman and Vivienne Westwood.

According to the company, the three strong women highlighted are each different from one another while each has left her mark on the history and evolution of the female role, and despite living in different eras and from different society and backgrounds.  Iluna is celebrating the new collection with a "travelling exhibition" accompanying its participation in events and trade fairs.

Madame De Pompadour, nicknamed Reinette, was the favourite of the French King Louis XV, while Luisa Amman, was called Corè by the great poet Gabriele D'Annunzio; and the iconic British designer Dame Vivienne Westwood, was known as Miss Viv. Today, they are the FOREVER ICONS chosen and celebrated by Iluna, with each denoted with a different theme in Iluna's latest collection that reflects their strong personalities.

Reinette

The nickname "Reinette" belonged to Madame De Pompadour who was the favourite of France's King Louis XV. She had a significant influence in politics, arts, and fashion, shaping the style of the first half of the 18th century. Her beauty and grace are represented in a floral theme in Ilonia's range, featuring small romantic details that become opulent with the use of lurex and golden cords. The colour palette is soft, muted, and powdery.

Corè

Luisa Amman, born in the late 19th century into a wealthy bourgeois family, married at a young age, was Corè and she became Marchesa Casati. "Corè" was the endearing nickname given to her by her lover Gabriele D'Annunzio, inspired by Kore, the Queen of the Underworld. She was a patron of the arts, an eccentric and transgressive collector. This theme celebrates opulence, from peacock feathers to Liberty-style designs in deep colours and warm metallic glimmers. An innovative proposal for the theme is the pleating technique, achieved directly in the weaving process of the Ultralight jacquardtronic laces.

Miss Viv

Vivienne Westwood was famously an extraordinary protagonist with an intense and irreverent life. Her insights have forever marked fashion and transformed the general standards of dressing. Rock and rebellious, she drew inspiration from street trends, anticipating avant-garde movements. In the 1990s, she brought back Tartan, mixing it with sensual roses in a maximalism that went against the prevailing trends, featuring vibrant colours. At the beginning of the third millennium, she grasped the importance of preserving the planet and left us with a motto that is more urgent and relevant than ever: "Buy Less, Choose Well, Make it Last." Within this theme, there is a new GRS (Global Recycled Standard)-certified print that saves water, applied to ultra-fine Lurex nets, which are also certified.

Iluna Group,  founded in 1970 by Luigi Annovazzi, is known as a pioneer in the field of sustainability and advocate for continuous research into low-impact solutions and has been GRS  certified since 2018 for its sustainable Green Label product range that represents a new responsible approach towards the environment and people, combining innovation, aesthetics, and quality. From the polymer to the ennobled lace, Iluna ensures transparency and complete traceability throughout the production chain, measuring the growth of corporate sustainability through the Higgs Index.

Over the years, the company’s share of sustainable production has steadily increased, from 3% in 2018 to over 50% in 2022. From 2016 till today, the company has produced 7.5 million meters of Green Label laces, using 92,810 kg of recycled and GRS-certified polyamide, resulting in a water savings of 1.5 million litres. Among the latest product innovations are the brand-new customizable GRS-certified Lurex nets with equally certified prints, special embellishments such as printing and flocking, and materials such as organic cotton, mass-dyed FSC-certified viscose, and the premium recycled elastomer ROICA™ EF from the ROICA™ Eco Smart family.

Trade fair: Pure London champions UK Fashion this July

UK retail stalwarts as well as new and celebrated brands will be among the diverse showcase of British brands that will take part in the Pure London fashion trade fair slated for July 16th-18th 2023 at the iconic Olympia London in Kensington. 

Billed as the UK’s largest Festival of Fashion and a trade collective of global fashion designers, brands, buyers, creative minds and inspiring trends, Pure London plays a crucial role in fostering business growth, facilitating collaborations, and helping trade visitors to stay updated with the latest trends and advancements in the fashion industry.

GWD

The UK is the third largest apparel and footwear market worldwide with a market size of approximately £58 billion, according to UKFT report - Compendium of Industry Statistics and Analysis. It highlighted that there were 34,045 businesses operating in the UK fashion and textile sector in 2020, across retail, wholesale and manufacturing. Of these, 16,965 were retailers, 8,825 were wholesalers and 8,245 manufacturers.  

Such is the huge influence of the UK market on global fashion that includes trend leaders, design experts and sustainability innovators.  The July edition of Pure London will be a valuable source for UK brands that will demonstrate the strengths of British design and style.

Among the exhibitors is quintessentially British lifestyle brand Joules which returns to Pure London after nearly a decade of absence from the show and GWD the latest brand from retail legend George Davies.  

Nova Of London

Other British brands include Lily & Me, One Hundred Stars, ONJENU, Mirla Bearne, Nova Of London and Pink Lemons.

Premium lifestyle brand Joules was established almost three decades ago. Known for classic styles designed for an outdoor lifestyle that reference contemporary twists and unique prints, it has been a favourite of high streets and premium department stores across the UK. Tom Joule, Chief Brand Officer at Joules says "We’re thrilled to be returning to Pure London and reconnecting with our industry peers and valued partners. We’re looking forward to sharing our passion for British design and captivating attendees with our Spring Summer 24 range, which was truly built with our customer in mind and feels like a fresh move-on from previous seasons."

The GWD brand includes womenswear and children's wear and follows George Davies' signature mix of occasionwear and smart-casual attire.  Characterised by attention to detail, pieces feature beautiful embellishments, intricate lace designs and subtle trims paired with bold prints and vibrant colours. 

Returning to Pure London for a second season, GWD is the latest collection from the iconic retailer George Davies renowned for transforming the landscape of UK retail over his illustrious career by launching Next, George at ASDA and PER UNA at Marks & Spencer.  

Ethical fashion brand, Mirla Beane, aims to champion the next generation of designers and local makers empowering them to create sustainable fashion that is design-led, sophisticated and beautiful.  Inspired by nature the modern range features strong pops of colour, bold prints, ballooning sleeves, and curving seams creating a style driven and feel-good collection.  Sustainable lifestyle brand, Pink Lemons, is inspired by harmoniously blending the Cornish lifestyle with a love of traditional Indian fabrics and prints.  Traditional printing techniques in colours that range from muted to bold adorn vintage and recycled fabrics to create a beautiful and feminine collection.

One Hundred Stars

Personality filled One Hundred Stars returns to Pure London this season with a timeless collection that takes inspiration from classical and historical designs.

ONJENU was created out of a love of print, colour and femininity and references the iconic fashion of the 50s, 60s and 70s.  while Nova of London will showcase a one-stop-shop collection with distinctive style and a mix of innovative and wearable designs that are on-trend and affordable. 

 Gloucestershire born, Lily & Me, is famous for beautiful prints and easy wear styles that are inspired by arts, crafts and the natural world and will present a joyful and colour-filled collection.

Gloria Sandrucci, Event Director at Pure London says, “We are excited to welcome so many amazing brands from the UK to the July edition of Pure London.  It is fantastic to see UK retail stalwarts such as Joules and George Davies choose Pure London to showcase their collections. The UK fashion market is truly diverse and showcases the best of British style, design innovation, and heritage.  Buyers and visitors to Pure London will find authentic brands with exciting collections.”

Pure London provides an international platform to hundreds of collections and brands, shaping trends, leading the conversation on sustainable, circular and responsible fashion, and providing industry leading educational seminars and content to thousands of buyers. 

Trade fair: Copenhagen Fashion Week unveils the SS24 Show Schedule

Copenhagen Fashion Week, that will take place in Copenhagen from August 7 – 11,  has unveiled their Spring/Summer 24 Show Schedule.

The schedule presents 31 shows alongside a curated list of events, presentations, talks, and activations (details will soon be released). The full series will be available to watch live on the CPHFW YouTube channel - streamed directly on the copenhagenfashionweek.com home page for their global community.  

OpéraSport

For this Spring/Summer 24 edition, CPHFW are expanding the show schedule into the Monday in order to spotlight the growing line up presenting across shows, presentations and events.

Click HERE for the show schedule.

Commencing with the CPHFW Opening Reception at the Design Museum at 3pm CET in the afternoon, NEWTALENT alumni A.Roege Hove will hold the opening show this season, followed by NEWTALENT menswear designer Latimmier, 7 Days Active and Saks Potts closing the day. Cecilie Bahnsen will host a very special activation for this edition alongsisde, with further events and presentations to be announced.

Marimekko

Here is the SS24 brand line-up:

7 Days Active; Roege Hove CPHFW NEWTALENT Alumni; Baum und Pferdgarten; Deadwood; Ganni; Gestuz; Helmstedt; Henrik Vibskov; Kerne.milk; Latimmier (CPHFW NEWTALENT); Lovechild 1979; Marimekko; Mark Kenly Domino Tan; Munthe; Nicklas Skovgaard (CPHFW NEWTALENT); OpéraSport; P.L.N. (CPHFW NEWTALENT); Paolina Russo (Zalando Visionary Award Winner); Remain; Rolf Ekroth (CPHFW NEWTALENT); Rotate; Royal Danish Academy of Fine Arts; Saks Potts; Skall Studio; Stamm; Stine Goya; Sunflower; TG Botanical; The Garment Vain; Wood Wood. 

Event and Presentation Schedule to be announced on June 26th, with events and presentations being added up until August 6th. Each event and presentation listing will have contact details in order to request attendance. 

Photos from Copenhagen Fashion Week website.

Trade fair: Texworld Evolution Paris to celebrate 25th anniversary in a new venue this July

This summer, from July 3 to 5, 2023, the Texworld Evolution Paris group of trade shows will welcome 1,350 exhibitors from more than 20 countries to the Porte de Versailles Exhibition Center, in the heart of Paris, marking the shows'  25th anniversary.

Encompassing Apparel Sourcing, Avantex, Leatherworld, and Texworld Paris the three-day trade event on the Autumn-Winter 2024-2025 season will be a key focus of international buyers' sourcing calendar, offering the latest developments on offer from fashion brands that range from ready-to-wear to luxury designs.

Texworld Evolution Paris will for the first time staged in the new venue at Porte de Versailles in Paris because its usual site of Parc des Expositions in the Bourget has been given way to preparations of the 2024 Summer Olympic Games. 

Organisers at Messe Frankfurt France say being in the new venue means the Texworld Evolution Paris  trade shows can be held concurrently with other fashion events that will take place at the same location in the French capital.

Julien Schmoll, Marketing and Communication Director of Messe Frankfurt France explains that by joining up with the WSN Développement group, a broad sourcing platform will be created for trade buyers. "With the same badge, visitors will be able to attend freely from one event to another. WSN's Curve and Interfilière Paris shows for the lingerie, loungewear, swimwear and activewear community are slated to be held in Hall 5, from July 2 to 4, at the Parc des Expositions de la Porte de Versailles.

Texworld Evolution Paris  is also set to be the largest event since the end of the Covid-19 health crisis, with more than 1,300 manufacturers expected in Hall 1 of the Porte de Versailles Exhibition Centre, representing a 40% increase in participation compared to the February 2023 show. 

The number of participating Chinese manufacturers are almost back to their pre-crisis level, with the number of exhibitors doubling at Apparel Sourcing Paris and increasing very strongly at Texworld Paris. Manufacturers from India, Turkey, Korea and Taiwan have confirmed their attendance. Due to very favourable results of the previous winter session, exhibitors are confident to be able to maintain close contact with the market by participating in Texworld Evolution Paris, explains the organisers.

Meanwhile, Messe Frankfurt Paris will be launching "Après vous", the trend book for the Autumn-Winter 2024-2025 season in July at Porte de Versailles, Paris, to celebrate "the world after", but also a certain French savoir-vivre, a source of creation for textiles and fashion, presented by Art Directors Louis Gérin and Gregory Lamaud.

Under four themes the new trend book, will be presenting the latest trend directions based on their analysis of emerging signals detected in the creative, artistic, economic and societal fields.

Click HERE for a preview of the new trend book.

Trade fair: PREMIÈRE VISION PARIS launches "A Better Way" Eco-Responsible Programme in July 2023 edtion

Come this July 4, 5 & 6, Première Vision Paris will once again play host to the world's textile and fashion professionals congregating at  Parc d' Expositions in Villepente, north Paris for the  international trade show.

After making schedule adjustments to adapt to a new calendar since 2022, Première Vision Paris now takes a new step forward to better align with evolutions ongoing in the global fashion market. 

Organisers say this edition, which will focus on  Autumn-Winter 24-25 collections, has been redesigned to meet the many challenges the textile and fashion industries are facing today, resulting in transformations driven by the transition to sustainability, regulatory changes, the impact of the pandemic on consumers' clothing consumption, the implications of the geopolitical crisis, the new needs of buyers within fashion brands, adaptation strategies for supply chains, and the new challenges facing manufacturers.

Première Vision Paris - February 2023 event

Marking a turning point for the show, the July show will see major changes in four key areas: 

First of all, Eco-responsibility is the new paradigm at the heart of the repositioning of the show and its offer, thanks to the new a better way programme.

Secondly, an evolved show layout and the creation of a PV Hub dedicated to innovation.

Third is a (r)evolutionary approach to fashion information and the trend forums.

In this evolving context, the world’s creative fashion professionals will come together at the Parc des Expositions de Paris Nord Villepinte to find inspiration, exchange ideas and build their new collections of ready-to-wear, accessories (fashion jewelry, leather goods) and footwear for the Autumn-Winter 24-25 season. An edition featuring a wealth of new products and sources of inspiration, services and programming.

Première Vision Paris - February 2023 event

Gilles Lasbordes, Managing Director of Première Vision said "This second edition of Première Vision Paris on the new July calendar is full of new features.  

"A new step has been taken, and we are particularly pleased to support the sector in its environmentally responsible transition with the new PV programme, A Better Way. This initiative, which we’ve been working on for over a year, aims to simplify buyers day-to-day work and help guide them, while decoding and promoting the real advances made by the textile industry and its investments in favor of more sustainable fashion. More than 260 manufacturers are already eligible for this programme. 

"I would add that the launch of the deadstock offer meets a complementary and growing need across all our markets."

Première Vision Paris - February 2023 event

A favourite event for trade buyers, designers, production heads, fashion and accessories brand managers, and professionals from related industries, Première Vision Paris visitors will discover the creative proposals and developments of 1,293 exhibitors from 45 countries, including spinners, weavers, tanners, textile designers, accessory and component makers, and garment manufacturers, chosen by Committees of professionals and experts.  Their material collections and new developments can also be discovered on the online Première Vision Marketplace  while the list of exhibitors is available on the Première Vision website.

The number of exhibitors this July is 14% more than the July 2022 event, said organisers, and up 4% over the February 2023 (1,245 exhibitors) events.  Exhibitors come from mainly Europe including Italy, France, the UK, Spain, Portugal and Germany, as well as from the Mediterranean basin  such as Turkey, Morocco, Tunisia and Asia including Japan, Korea, India, and China.

Their material collections and latest developments  can also be discovered at the online Première Vision Marketplace (the list of exhibitors is available on the Première Vision website.

Première Vision Paris - February 2023 event

The fair is divided into eight Universes serving all creative fashion markets, covering Yarns (and fibers), Fabrics, Leather, Designs (textile designs and motifs), Accessories (and components), Manufacturing (for fashion), Manufacturing Leather (apparel, small leather goods, leather shoes manufacturing), and Smart Creation (technical and technological innovations, sustainable materials).

New on offer this season includes "A BETTER WAY " : a new programme to help understand the show’s offer, featuring a display on the stands of some 200 participating exhibitors, based on five criteria represented by pictograms (social initiatives, production sites’ impacts, traceability, product composition/processes, finished product durability and end-of-life).

The integrated into the Smart Creation area are four players specializing in the resale of deadstock.

The Smart Creation area is dedicated to responsible innovations from 56 exhibitors featuring their new materials and finishings, covering technological solutions and services.

In addition, in the new PV HUB space, a new display and layout in the heart of Hall 6 will focus mainly on a new SOURCING SOLUTIONS forum.

In terms of fashion decoding, a new ECO-INNOVATION AREA will be integrated into the new SOURCING SOLUTIONS forum.

There will also be seminars on trends and talks dedicated to discussions surrounding the challenges of eco-responsible fashion.  In addition, a half-day event on July 5 will be dedicated to Smart Tech, organized in partnership with The Interline online magazine and platform.

Visitors can also discover the latest study by the "Institut Français de la Mode" as part of the IFM-Première Vision Chair regarding consumer behavior towards eco-responsible fashion in Europe and the United States. The results will be unveiled during a conference hosted by Gildas Minvielle, Director of the Institut Français de la Mode’s Economic Observatory on Tuesday, July 4, 4pm  in the Talks Area (PV Hub - Hall 6).

Moreover there is a wealth of information and educational content to be found in the eco-responsibility section of the Première Vision online magazine, in which one can consult five white papers that shed light on the industry’s key sustainability issues (downloadable from the Première Vision website), covering Fashion & Sustainability - the key issues and the keys to responsible sourcing; Fashion & Leather; and, new this season, a white paper produced in collaboration with the fashion tech specialist magazine The Interline: Fashion & Technology - How Smart Tech is shaping tomorrow’s fashion.

All photos of  Première Vision Paris February 2023 by Lucia Carpio.

Exhibition: Korean aesthetics and crafts shine through the concept of "Weaving" at the Korean Cultural Centre, London

London Craft Week 2023 may be officially closed, but one can still enjoy some amazing works currently on show as part of the festival over at the Korean Cultural Centre in London, on The Strand.

Bamboo screens by Daeyong Cho

Entitled LIGHT OF WEAVING: Labour-Hand-Hours, the exhibition will run until June 30 2023.

It is co-presented by the Korean Foundation for International Cultural Exchange (KOFICE), the Korean Cultural Centre UK (KCCUK), and the Soluna Art Group, highlighting Korean aesthetics through the concept of ‘Weaving’.

The show brought together 11 masters and artists, featuring pieces that have been creatively formed by employing long-established Korean techniques and materials. It is part of the Travelling Korean Arts project to present Korean's aesthetics and historical values through the artworks of bamboo blind-making and artworks made of horsehair, paper, glass, porcelain, textiles, metal and lacquer, re-interpreted into modern crafts.

Dahye Jeong's creations made with horsehair, featured in a film, won him the 
 2022 Loewe Foundation Craft Prize.

As the title suggests, the exhibition explores the notion of weaving to symbolise a connection between eastern and western cultures.  Displayed artworks are strategically placed to embrace the objects’ silhouette and texture amplified through the use of light and shadow. 

Artworks from 11 craft masters are featured: 

Dahye Jeong's "A Time of Sincerity II"
in white horsehair.

First and foremost is Dahye Jeong winner of the 2022 Loewe Foundation Craft Prize.  She works with horsehair, a fast-diminishing skill, in creating three-dimensional vessel shapes.  The technique was taken from the making of traditional Korean men's headwear 'gat', creating new forms, resulting in amazing shapes and patterns especially when held against light.

Daeyong Cho's bamboo blind with 
Buddhist cross pattern.

Daeyong Cho, who has been designated among Korea’s intangible cultural assets, is a fifth-generation bamboo blind maker and his works were featured in the Netflix series Kingdom.  Korean bamboo blinds, known as "jukbuin" or "sudare" in Korean, are decorative window coverings made from woven bamboo strips. They serve multiple purposes, including providing shade, privacy, and ventilation. The process of making traditional bamboo blinds involves several steps:

Three versions of the Blossom Jar in porcelain, by Jaenyoung Jang.

Sinhyeok Ha creates clay landscapes with his vessels while Jaenyoung Jang makes the perfect form of porcelain objects. 

Moon Jar in porcelain by Yikyung Kim.

Yikyung Kim is a first-generation contemporary ceramic artist who creates porcelain pieces. 

Jungmo Kwon designs lights by experimenting with Korean paper Hanji. 

Youngsun Lee’s textile pieces are an interpretation of Korean monochrome paintings. 

In the foreground, Woosun Cheong's Open Vases in copper and iron.  On the platform behind, 
Kyouhong Lee's glass sculptures created with lacquer and gold.
On the wall is Sungyoul Park's laquer artwork on wood.

The exhibition also features the 2023 Loewe Foundation Finalists: Woosun Cheon makes metal wicker-like pieces and Kyouhong Lee’s works are inspired by traditional objects. Healim Shin deconstructs canvas to create on-off objects and art jewelry. The 2021 Loewe Foundation Craft Prize Finalist Sungyoul Park experiments with lacquer sap.

This exhibition showcases Korean valued traditional crafts, reflecting the country's rich cultural heritage and craftsmanship. They require skilled artisans who have mastered the techniques passed down through generations, contributing to the preservation of these traditional arts.

Photos by Lucia Carpio.

Exhibition: Style & Society: Dressing The Georgians at The Queen's Gallery, London

Whether you're a fashionista, or a historian, or simply interested in period dramas on television, the "Style & Society: Dressing The Georgians" exhibition currently running at The Queen's Gallery at the Buckingham Palace in London (until 8th October 2023) should not be missed, as it's a treasure trove of historical and fashion style references of the Georgian era, covering both men's and women's apparel.

The Marriage of George, Prince of Wales, and Princess Caroline of Brunswick, c. 1795,
 Oil on Canvas by John Graham

The Georgian period, spanning from the early 18th century to the early 19th century, was a time of significant changes in women's and men's fashion. It witnessed the transition from the flamboyant and ornate styles of the Baroque and Rococo periods to more refined and understated aesthetics.   The exhibition highlights fashion of the Georgian era that was influenced by social, political, and cultural factors, as well as the rise of the British Empire and the industrial revolution.

As the 18th century has been called "the age of revolution", the exhibition features various revolutions of Georgian fashion manifested technologically, politically and socially, serving as both a driver of change, and as a barometer of what was happening in the wider world.

Two women seated wearing a style of gown known as a mantua, characterised by the stylised back drapery.
From "A Dinner Party" c. 1719 - 25 by Marcellus Laroon the Younger.
Early in the Georgian period, the prevailing style for women's fashion was characterized by the influence of Baroque and Rococo aesthetics. Women's dresses featured a structured bodice with a wide, low neckline, often adorned with ruffles, lace, or decorative trim. The skirts were voluminous and bell-shaped, supported by hoops or panniers, creating a dramatic silhouette. Fabrics like silk, satin, and brocade were commonly used, reflecting the opulence of the era.

The comprehensive exhibition uses portraiture to tell the story of fashionable dress from Britain, from the accession of George I in 1714 to the death of George IV in 1830.    Presented in chronological introduction, the exhibition spans a series of rooms, "charting the transformation of styles, silhouettes and fabrics, and building up a layer-by-layer picture of what the Georgians wore."  Real clothing on display reveals details of construction and marks of wear.  

Women's fashion during the Georgian period underwent a significant evolution, moving from ornate and structured styles to simpler, flowing designs. The neoclassical influences brought about changes in silhouette, fabric choices, and overall aesthetic, reflecting the changing ideals and societal shifts of the time.  The upper classes had access to finer materials, intricate designs, and the services of dressmakers, while the lower classes often wore simpler and more practical clothing made from cheaper fabrics.

One of the key exhibits was the wedding dress shown above worn by Princess Charlotte (the only child of George IV and his wife, Caroline of Brunswick, and a granddaughter of George III)  on her marriage on May 2 1816 to Prince Leopold of Saxe-Coburg-Saalfeld. It is the only surviving royal wedding dress from the Georgian period.  

As the Georgian period progressed, the neoclassical ideals of simplicity and elegance began to influence women's fashion. Inspired by ancient Greek and Roman styles, dresses became less ornate and more lightweight. The waistline rose to just below the bust, creating a high-waisted silhouette known as the Empire style. The dresses featured soft, flowing fabrics such as muslin and gauze, often in pastel colors, and were often adorned with delicate embroidery or subtle patterns.

Another notable exhibit was a very wide extravagant dress from the 1760s, as seen above, worn during King George III and Queen Charlotte’s reign. The court dress, on loan from the Fashion Museum of Bath, highlights the extravagant fashions worn at court featuring a magnificent embroidered fabric, intricate detailing on the bodice, front and back, with a long train, lace trims and matching shoes.

Queen Charlotte (left) wearing the new inverted triangle style of stomacher and a heart shaped hairstyle; and (right) her daughter the Princess Charlotte Augusta (Queen of Württemberg)
painted by Benjamin West, P.R.A. c. 1777

Hairstyles during the Georgian period varied.  At the beginning of the era, women often wore towering powdered wigs, influenced by the French court fashion.   As the Georgian dress grew in volume, so too were their wigs, and along came hair accessories and grooming paraphernalia.  Queen Charlotte particularly was known for her elaborate hair styles such as the tall heart-shaped styles of 1776.

Accessories played a significant role in women's fashion during the Georgian period. Wide-brimmed hats, adorned with feathers, ribbons, and flowers, were fashionable and complemented the overall ensemble. Gloves, fans, and parasols were also commonly used as practical and decorative accessories. Jewellery, including necklaces, earrings, brooches, and bracelets, adorned women's outfits, often featuring pearls, precious stones, and intricate metalwork.

Men's fashion was characterized by elaborate and colourful garments, at the beginning of the Georgian period. The dominant silhouette consisted of a long, fitted coat with wide skirts, worn over a waistcoat and breeches. 

The coats, often made of luxurious fabrics such as silk and velvet, featured decorative elements like embroidery, brocade, and ornate buttons. The waistcoat, a sleeveless garment worn beneath the coat, became increasingly elaborate, showcasing intricate patterns and textures.

Johann Christian Fischer, by Thomas Gainsborough, Oil on Canvas c. 1774 - 80.

As the Georgian period progressed, a shift towards more tailored and structured clothing took place. This can be attributed to the influence of neoclassical ideals that sought to emulate the simplicity and elegance of ancient Greece and Rome. The coat became more fitted and shorter in length, eventually evolving into the classic tailcoat, which featured a cutaway front and tails at the back. Breeches gave way to long trousers, which became the standard legwear for men.

The development of men's fashion during the Georgian period can be characterized by a shift from opulence and flamboyance to more refined and tailored styles. This transition was influenced by changing societal norms, the desire to emulate classical ideals, and the emergence of a more industrialized and globalized world.

Photos by Lucia Carpio