Exhibition: Style & Society: Dressing The Georgians at The Queen's Gallery, London

Whether you're a fashionista, or a historian, or simply interested in period dramas on television, the "Style & Society: Dressing The Georgians" exhibition currently running at The Queen's Gallery at the Buckingham Palace in London (until 8th October 2023) should not be missed, as it's a treasure trove of historical and fashion style references of the Georgian era, covering both men's and women's apparel.

The Marriage of George, Prince of Wales, and Princess Caroline of Brunswick, c. 1795,
 Oil on Canvas by John Graham

The Georgian period, spanning from the early 18th century to the early 19th century, was a time of significant changes in women's and men's fashion. It witnessed the transition from the flamboyant and ornate styles of the Baroque and Rococo periods to more refined and understated aesthetics.   The exhibition highlights fashion of the Georgian era that was influenced by social, political, and cultural factors, as well as the rise of the British Empire and the industrial revolution.

As the 18th century has been called "the age of revolution", the exhibition features various revolutions of Georgian fashion manifested technologically, politically and socially, serving as both a driver of change, and as a barometer of what was happening in the wider world.

Two women seated wearing a style of gown known as a mantua, characterised by the stylised back drapery.
From "A Dinner Party" c. 1719 - 25 by Marcellus Laroon the Younger.
Early in the Georgian period, the prevailing style for women's fashion was characterized by the influence of Baroque and Rococo aesthetics. Women's dresses featured a structured bodice with a wide, low neckline, often adorned with ruffles, lace, or decorative trim. The skirts were voluminous and bell-shaped, supported by hoops or panniers, creating a dramatic silhouette. Fabrics like silk, satin, and brocade were commonly used, reflecting the opulence of the era.

The comprehensive exhibition uses portraiture to tell the story of fashionable dress from Britain, from the accession of George I in 1714 to the death of George IV in 1830.    Presented in chronological introduction, the exhibition spans a series of rooms, "charting the transformation of styles, silhouettes and fabrics, and building up a layer-by-layer picture of what the Georgians wore."  Real clothing on display reveals details of construction and marks of wear.  

Women's fashion during the Georgian period underwent a significant evolution, moving from ornate and structured styles to simpler, flowing designs. The neoclassical influences brought about changes in silhouette, fabric choices, and overall aesthetic, reflecting the changing ideals and societal shifts of the time.  The upper classes had access to finer materials, intricate designs, and the services of dressmakers, while the lower classes often wore simpler and more practical clothing made from cheaper fabrics.

One of the key exhibits was the wedding dress shown above worn by Princess Charlotte (the only child of George IV and his wife, Caroline of Brunswick, and a granddaughter of George III)  on her marriage on May 2 1816 to Prince Leopold of Saxe-Coburg-Saalfeld. It is the only surviving royal wedding dress from the Georgian period.  

As the Georgian period progressed, the neoclassical ideals of simplicity and elegance began to influence women's fashion. Inspired by ancient Greek and Roman styles, dresses became less ornate and more lightweight. The waistline rose to just below the bust, creating a high-waisted silhouette known as the Empire style. The dresses featured soft, flowing fabrics such as muslin and gauze, often in pastel colors, and were often adorned with delicate embroidery or subtle patterns.

Another notable exhibit was a very wide extravagant dress from the 1760s, as seen above, worn during King George III and Queen Charlotte’s reign. The court dress, on loan from the Fashion Museum of Bath, highlights the extravagant fashions worn at court featuring a magnificent embroidered fabric, intricate detailing on the bodice, front and back, with a long train, lace trims and matching shoes.

Queen Charlotte (left) wearing the new inverted triangle style of stomacher and a heart shaped hairstyle; and (right) her daughter the Princess Charlotte Augusta (Queen of Württemberg)
painted by Benjamin West, P.R.A. c. 1777

Hairstyles during the Georgian period varied.  At the beginning of the era, women often wore towering powdered wigs, influenced by the French court fashion.   As the Georgian dress grew in volume, so too were their wigs, and along came hair accessories and grooming paraphernalia.  Queen Charlotte particularly was known for her elaborate hair styles such as the tall heart-shaped styles of 1776.

Accessories played a significant role in women's fashion during the Georgian period. Wide-brimmed hats, adorned with feathers, ribbons, and flowers, were fashionable and complemented the overall ensemble. Gloves, fans, and parasols were also commonly used as practical and decorative accessories. Jewellery, including necklaces, earrings, brooches, and bracelets, adorned women's outfits, often featuring pearls, precious stones, and intricate metalwork.

Men's fashion was characterized by elaborate and colourful garments, at the beginning of the Georgian period. The dominant silhouette consisted of a long, fitted coat with wide skirts, worn over a waistcoat and breeches. 

The coats, often made of luxurious fabrics such as silk and velvet, featured decorative elements like embroidery, brocade, and ornate buttons. The waistcoat, a sleeveless garment worn beneath the coat, became increasingly elaborate, showcasing intricate patterns and textures.

Johann Christian Fischer, by Thomas Gainsborough, Oil on Canvas c. 1774 - 80.

As the Georgian period progressed, a shift towards more tailored and structured clothing took place. This can be attributed to the influence of neoclassical ideals that sought to emulate the simplicity and elegance of ancient Greece and Rome. The coat became more fitted and shorter in length, eventually evolving into the classic tailcoat, which featured a cutaway front and tails at the back. Breeches gave way to long trousers, which became the standard legwear for men.

The development of men's fashion during the Georgian period can be characterized by a shift from opulence and flamboyance to more refined and tailored styles. This transition was influenced by changing societal norms, the desire to emulate classical ideals, and the emergence of a more industrialized and globalized world.

Photos by Lucia Carpio