Natural & Organic Cosmetics Conference: Diversity in Beauty

Advertising and commercials for cosmetics as well as the product offerings have formerly been dominated by a certain type of beauty ideal – and were targeted to specific target groups. But the customer groups have undergone changes in their ethnic background, and their  standard of what is considered “beautiful“ has evolved as well.

Catwalk show embracing diversity at Pure London July 22-24 at London Kensington Olympia.
Photo © Lucia Carpio 2018

So whatever orientation their consumers are, be they have darker skin, or from Asians or Latino background, or even transgender, several major players of the international beauty market have been in the limelight to offer a broad range of colours for various skin tones, and this new approach is also compelling the organic cosmetics industry to act and demand new vantage points for brand orientation.

The 11th edition of the international Natural & Organic Cosmetics Conference, slated for September 25-26, 2018, in Berlin in cooperation with the NürnbergMesse, organizer of the VIVANESS, will put one of the focal points on the current topic of Diversity in Beauty.

“Our world is changing and becoming more diverse and colourful. The changes bring along both opportunities and challenges. The Natural & Organic Cosmetics Conference wants to provide new impulses for new developments within the natural and organic cosmetics industry“, states Wolf Lüdge, Program Chairman and organizer of the Conference.

Lüdge considers cultural diversity and the desire for bespoke products to be economical key factors of the future: “Those wanting to be successful on a long-term basis will need to satisfy the diverse customer groups also with a broad and personalized product offering. This requires a general willingness to address this issue."

Elfriede Dambacher, an expert in organic cosmetics and Program Chairwoman of the Natural & Organic Cosmetics Conference, and owner of the consulting company naturkosmetik konzepte, says diversity in beauty is a great opportunity to further strengthen the market position of natural and organic cosmetics: “Ethical considerations, that also include diversity, today are just as important as organic ingredients. The natural and organic cosmetics industry has the opportunity to address diversity reputably and with credibility and thereby authentically implement the usage of the term diversity in the beauty market“, explains Elfriede Dambacher.

The next Natural & Organic Cosmetics Conference will be held September 25-26, 2018, at the Ellington Hotel, Berlin.

Scoop trade fair owner has taken over PURE London

Just when PURE London and Scoop International - two established London trade shows - are launching their Spring 2019 editions this weekend, news have emerged this week that the two are to be consolidated under one owner.

This should be seen as a welcoming development, as buyers and exhibitors will be able to economise on time and investment to attend one rather than two separate yet overlapping events in the future, although both fairs are different in feel and approach.

According to a report by Drapers, independent retailers, brands and agents were largely supportive of the consolidation following the corporate takeover of Pure London this week, believing more “synergies” will be created across events.

ITE, owner of Moda, Scoop and Jacket Required, completed its £300m purchase of Ascential’s exhibition division, which operates Pure London, and Spring and Autumn Fair.

According to Drapers’ report, Mark Shashoua, chief executive of ITE, said the exhibitions will receive investment following the deal: “Under ITE’s ownership we look forward to treating [these events] as core, giving them the investment, management focus and international platform they need to grow,” he was quoted as saying.

Ian Campbell-Smith, director at sales agency Palladio Associates, told Drapers that  the deal was an opportunity to create more synergy between the shows and that the opportunity for a linked event between Scoop and Pure could be beneficial.

“There is a crossover [in terms of brands] between Scoop and Pure but only 15%-20%. There is not much cross-pollination and the two events could allow London to be a stronger location.”

Another womenswear agent said the shows should be consolidated: “I’ve always been of the opinion that there should be only one major show for our sector. It’s for the convenience of the buyers and many buyers do both. It’s expensive and not convenient.”

Madrid Fashion Week held on new dates concluded with 40,870 + visitors

The Mercedes-Benz Fashion Talent prize was awarded to Outsiders Division/CHRISTIAN SIMMON, as best emerging company at this edition of Madrid Fashion Week held July 6 - 11 2018.

Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Madrid, organised by IFEMA, had concluded on July 11 recording an attendance of 40,870 trade visitors in total: 36,217 of which visited hall 14.1 of IFEMA-Feria de Madrid, and a further 4,653 people attended the shows and presentations held at various venues in the city.

The 68th edition that began on July 6th assembled 47 Spanish designers and brands to showcase their Spring-Summer 2019 collection.  Like last January's edition, it was held on new dates, two months earlier than usual, kicking off the international calendar to boost the event's international projection.

This edition, the first in its history held in July, avoided coinciding with other fashion shows on the international calendar, thus attracting the interest of a greater number of buyers and foreign press, according to organisers.  Specifically, this edition of the fashion show was attended by 40 international VIP trade guests, representatives from top fashion outlets and distributors, and prestigious media representatives from Europe, America and Asia.

Constanza+Lab,
winner of the tenth edition of the
Samsung EGO Innovation Project

Samsung EGOs emerging talent opened the fashion show

As a new development, young talents from Samsung EGO kicked off the week's fashion show programme in hall 14.1 on Saturday the 7th, with the presentation of Constanza+Lab, winner of the tenth edition of the Samsung EGO Innovation Project, which was followed by the creations of another eight young designers.

La Condesa

Palomo Spain 

Other new features of this edition included the première of La Condesa; the return to the general programme of the fashion parade of Roberto Torretta and Menchén Tomás; the return of Pedro del Hierro to IFEMA; the Palomo Spain parade after recently receiving the 2018 Who's on Next VOGUE award, and the Duarte and Juan Vidal fashion parades at the headquarters of the Madrid Regional Government.






















MBFWMadrid's Sustainability Commitment

Juanjo Oliva - Eco Fashion Project by Ecoembes

In this edition, MBFWMadrid further its commitment to Fashion with Sustainability by presenting, with the collaboration of its environmental sponsor Ecoembes, the first parade held within the parameters of the circular economy, by the designer Juanjo Oliva. With his brand Oliva, the designer presented the OLIVA COLLECTION show. III by Ecoembes, a collection made of fabrics made from recycled materials, mainly plastic bottles (PET).

Institutional support
Also, with the support of Madrid Regional Council and the City Council, the city saw the holding of different activities concerning fashion creation and new trends. The Madrid Regional Government contributed on this occasion by supporting the designers Juan Vidal and Darte, who exhibited their creations at the Real Casa de Correos de Puerta del Sol, headquarters of Madrid Regional Government.

Meanwhile, within the framework of the Madrid Capital de Moda (MCDM) programme, the city Council of Madrid set up a screen in Plaza Margaret Thatcher, near Paseo de la Castellana, where people could watch the 68th edition of MBFWMadrid live. In addition, a new free bus service was made available to visitors of MBFWMadrid, connecting IFEMA with Plaza de Colón, everyday.

For its part, ACME put on various activities in the city coinciding with MBFWMadrid, within the framework of its Madrid es Moda programme.

Mercedes-Benz awarded the Mercedes-Benz Fashion Talent prize to Outsiders Division, as best emerging company at this edition.  

MBFWMadrid 2018 was once again the platform chosen by major brands such as Mercedes-Benz, L'Oreal Paris and Samsung, to reward the new and outstanding designers of Spanish fashion.

With the sponsorship of L’Oréal Paris, Jorge Vázquez was voted best established designer, Afrodita Dorado best model, and Agatha Ruiz de la Prada best beauty look, at an awards ceremony presented by Sara Carbonero.

Furthermore, MBFWMadrid presented an off programme which included the talk given by the prestigious journalist Jessica Michault, aimed at designers taking part in the fashion show, on the importance of digitalisation in fashion to boost business and the internationalisation of its brands.

Tribute to the journalist Jesus María Montes-Fernández, celebrating his 25 years in the fashion industry supporting Spanish design and helping spread the Spanish brand throughout the world. More than 40 Spanish designers attended this famous professional's silver jubilee in the business.

Carlota Barrera's "The Matador and the Fisherman" debut menswear collection

Spanish designer Carlota Barrera explores a dialogue between the purpose of beauty in the matador costume with its marked silhouette in contraposition to the practicality of fishermen's attire in her first menswear collection.

Carlota's love for craftsmanship shone through her use of different manual techniques in the collection. It's a way of stating the important role of these crafts in the Spanish tradition, nowadays in danger of disappearing.

Entitled "The Matador and the Fisherman", the presentation was held on July 12th 2018 as part of the Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Madrid summer 2019 show.

The designer played out the concept of masculinity versus femininity, with a sense of serene beauty on a strong silhouette. The colours have been taken from the soil and the sea, according to Carlota: earth, blue, green, red, ivory.  

The ensembles boldly featured detailed embroidery of flowers, corals and seaweed morphed into abstract motifs ornamenting traditional Spanish tailoring updated with modern techniques of design and making.

Concentrating on natural fibres and leather work in this collection, the designer works with a number of Spanish artisans such as Steve Mono for shoes made of Ubrique leather, Javier Sánchez Medina known for reviving traditional basket weaving using natural materials, such as bamboo, straw, wicker, fibre, and rattan, and Anónima by CM for hand embroidery.

Inspired by the confrontation of the man against the beast, the collection questioned which of the two embodies each role: on one hand, through the Spanish tradition of bullfighting, and on the other with the work of fishermen who fight against storms and marine beasts.

Born in northern Spain, Carlota Barrera was trained at the prestigious Central Saint Martins and Instituto Europeo di Design. She also recently completed her studies with the Master in Menswear at the London College of Fashion and developed her professional skills working with the renowned designer Carmen March.

Eco-fashion house Ministry of Tomorrow announces the launch of its new Vegan Bag collection.

According to L.A.-based eco brand Ministry of Tomorrow, more than one billion animals are killed for their leather each year for the global industry, thus their own new Vegan Bag collection is the way forward as no animals are slaughtered for their hides.

The MOT collection includes a portfolio, briefcase, cross-body and a backpack
as well as pouches and a body bump bag.
To view the Ministry of Tomorrow's campaign film, click HERE.

The new Vegan Bag collection is produced at the Ministry of Tomorrow’s fair wage, eco-factory in Nairobi, Kenya, just outside of Kibera, Kenya’s largest slum. The company recruited highly skilled tailors who reside in Kibera and offered them fare wage jobs to work.

The design is clean and chic with a Maasai-warrior inspired interior.

“The significance of the design in this collection makes a statement that says we are fighting back, from the inside, and we do this by providing consciences people a high quality alternative to leather” said Julian Prolman founder and president of the Ministry of Tomorrow.

The handcrafted bags are made with Italian and Japanese, animal-free, finer-than-leather fabrics and the lining is made from certified organic and fair trade canvas sourced from India and low impact dyes accepted for use with organic textiles. The entire supply chain from seed to production considers the well-being of people, wildlife, and the planet, said the founder.

MOTs Nairobi factory produces luxury bags that are on par with Milan’s notables but with a new twist, said Prolman, adding that it took them several years to perfect the design, production and eco-material sourcing.

“We design and produce for a new audience of conscious consumers. Social, environmental and animal rights activism is at the core of our brand. Our bags are produced with respect for the earth and care for animals and the people who are involved at each step of the production” said Julian Prolman, founder and president of the Ministry of Tomorrow.

“We are redefining luxury through a new expression of imaginative design that is elegant and at the same time distinctive, functional and produced in a responsible manner’ said Prolman.

The Ministry of Tomorrow is developing a community of conscientious young spirited people who enjoy the experience of a luxury lifestyle but also want to feel good about supporting responsibly produced products that deliver social and environmental benefits, said the founder.

 Ministry of Tomorrow Says No More Fashion “To Die For”
Eco-fashion house, Ministry of Tomorrow vows to 
end the animal slaughter one bag at a time.

“We want to see an end to the “fashion to die for” scenario that has sadly become a societal norm, where animals are killed for our pleasure, in a barbaric perception of luxury that literally costs an arm and a leg. We believe it is morally corrupt to produce garments and accessories at the expense of animals and nature. As an alternative, we promote “fashion to live for” and use this stand as a vehicle for activism that contributes to a movement to end the needless suffering of animals” said Prolman.

 The new collection can be purchased directly from the company's online shop.

Rani Zakhem Couture, Autumn Winter 2018-2019: A warrior goddess

Because women of today need to assert herself in the face of challenges.  While the British Prime Minister Theresa May’s position is under threat due to  discord in her cabinet against her Brexit plan, the #MeToo campaign drives focus on the perils of abused women.

Now the Rani Zakhem Couture Autumn Winter 2018-2019 collection presented earlier this month in Paris is a vibrant and sparkling tribute to the combating and combative woman, entitled  Amazone of all jungles and  terribly ”Glamazonian”, she is portrayed like a warrior goddess: a strong silhouette for an empowered woman.

A large part of this collection features gowns in an explosion of white, a value rather than a colour, considered fragile but luminous, bold, a symbol of renewal and resilience, with military reference and camouflage-inspired detailing and motifs.  The recurring military insignia adorn the sleeves of a jacket or coat as giant gold glittering embroidered chevrons.  The new Amazone puts on a appearance of strength and invulnerability, as if ready for combats on all front.  

The collection includes glamorous gowns and dresses in silver, red, black and gold, decorated ornate motifs; glittering emerald, bronze and gold on a pencil skirt; red, black and gold crystals in clusters on an incendiary sheath or on sleeves, or in a single element, gold, iridescent crystal and silver, wrapping the waist of a white silk crepe cocktail dress vertiginously slit on the bias.   Elsewhere, we find the motif in an almost crude state, treated in a falsely literal way, as a serigraph in shades of khaki on a precious silk crepe sablé, for an ultra-feminine  “V” neck spencer jacket with structured shoulders, and sharp cigarette pants.

 

Rani Zakhem’s  "glamazone" is also marked with the seal of the forests translated, here in diaphanous sheaths where intertwined cascades of lianas drawn by the designer and hand embroidered with sequins and white, bronze, silver and gold braided threads. On the skirt of a tulle dress with crinoline all the poetry of an imaginary jungle unfolds, a fairy where fauna and flora blend in a palette of sky blue, pale pink, gold and copper, punctuated here and there by a flight of black birds.

The strapless corset draped in nude tulle, joins the skirt by a movement of ruffled tulle. In this celebration of nature there is also a spectacular crinoline creation, fluttering black tulle, with scattering of crystals, evoking a spider in its precious cobweb. Dragonflies flutter over pastel hues of aquatic vegetation on an exquisite revealing ballgown . as well as an adorable sheath in tulle cascades, nuanced from orange to pink, like a poisonous flower or panoply of native warriors.

Subtle references from Yves Saint Laurent, Marc Bohan and Azzedine Alaïa punctuate the couture vocabulary of Rani Zakhem.

Vegan brand: ENDA - ethical high fashion

 After showcasing her work during New York Fashion Week, fashion designer, Ran Enda, expands to Los Angeles to raise awareness in the industry with her highly conscious collection.
Here are her latest creations shown in L.A. on July 3rd 2018.
Images from ENDA.

Ran Enda is a Japanese fashion designer based in New York. Born and raised in southern Japan, she graduated from FIT in Manhattan. She designed for Top brands such as Ralph Lauren and DVF. After a 12-year journey in the fast fashion realm, Ran decided to fulfill her vision for a cruelty-free fashion movement and launched ENDA in 2015.

“There is no doubt the current fashion business activity is creating negative impact on the environment. Enda is committed to offer 100% vegan and ethical clothing and accessories,” says the designer.
"Why vegan and ethical? Because these are two independent efforts. Just how vegan food is not necessarily always healthy, it is one approach to create products that are vegan (free from animal and its by-product) and another to produce them in an ethical way. It is an extremely challenging process but it represents the core values of the brand."

The ENDA luxury collection has a strong social and environmental activism woven into its fabric, according to Ran.

Each piece is produced with respect for the animals, the planet and humankind. Every purchase contributes in keeping animals away from violence and exploitation, in recycling natural resources and creating less landfill and in providing healthy and safe labour condition.

Ran Enda is committed to offering long-lasting designs that allows conscious individuals to wear their values.

The brand takes a “break from routine” approach found in Japanese art by freeing itself from trends, expressing simplicity, sophistication, spontaneity and originality.

Colours and prints are some of the key elements used to express ENDA’s brand aesthetics, highlighting its unique designs.

When faux skin and fur pieces are used, they are carefully selected and designed to match the luxuriousness of real ones, providing better choices without compromising the animals and the planet, says the designer.

Warm weather boosts above average seasonal sales for retailers - CBI

While a heat wave is taking hold of the UK, the higher-than-average temperatures seem to have had a positive impact on shoppers, according to the Confederation of British Industry (CBI) with retailers benefitting from above-average seasonal sales and improved order volumes growth.

In the year to June since September 2017, the UK’s retail sales demonstrated growth at the fastest pace, based on the CBI’s latest monthly Distributive Trades Survey (DTS).  

Online fashion retailers boohoo and boohooMAN have created an exclusive capsule collection set – the "Love is Love" collection is is a capsule designed to empower, embrace, support and celebrate love in all of its forms. Featuring a total of 30 pieces spanning ready-to-wear and accessories, the collection is subtle in design yet vocal in its message. Gender neutrality is at the forefront of this collaboration with each design available in various colourways, tones, fits and sizes. Purple, pink, blue and grey form the base of the range while an edit of the collection celebrates Pride through the use of the rainbow flag. Slogan prints play a huge part in the messaging behind the collection.

In particular, internet sales grew at a faster rate than the long-run average for the first time since January 2018 (although retailers expect growth to ease slightly in the year to July).

The survey conducted between 29 May and 13 June 2018, consisting of 106 firms (of which 45 retailers), also revealed that sales volumes were well above average for the time of year, following three months when they were below seasonal averages.   Additionally, the survey reported a jump in growth in the volume of orders placed on suppliers.

Retail sales growth was fairly broad-based across retail sub-sectors, with the pick-up in June driven particularly by a rise in non-store sales, department stores, durable household goods, and “other” normal goods. Grocers and hardware & DIY stores also fared well, reporting robust sales. Meanwhile, carpet & furniture stores and clothing retailers saw a drop in sales volumes in the year to June.

Anna Leach, CBI Head of Economic Intelligence, said:“Higher-than-average temperatures seem to have had a positive impact on shoppers, with retailers benefitting from above-average seasonal sales and improved order volumes growth. While today’s findings will bring some summer cheer to retailers, underlying conditions for the sector remain challenging – household spending remains under pressure from the slow recovery in real wage growth and the sector is still grappling with key structural changes like digital transformation.”   

Looking ahead, retailers expect growth in sales volumes and orders placed on suppliers to ease in the year to July. 

Elsewhere in the distribution sector, wholesalers reported flat sales volumes in the year to June (breaking 22 months of uninterrupted growth) – although firms expect growth to pick-up again in July. Motor traders continued to report modest sales volume growth, and they expect growth to accelerate sharply in July.