Culture: Happy Chinese New Year of the Dragon!

In the Chinese zodiac, the dragon is one of the 12 animal signs, each associated with a specific year in a 12-year cycle that repeats, creating a system that is deeply embedded in Chinese culture and widely used for astrological and divinatory purposes.

The dragon is a powerful and auspicious symbol in Chinese culture, often associated with imperial authority, strength, and good fortune.  It is the only imaginary animal in the Chinese zodiac, and its significance lies in its mythical nature, positive attributes, leadership qualities, and its role in the celestial hierarchy. Those born in the Year of the Dragon are believed to inherit special characteristics and are often associated with success and prosperity. 

Under the title, "Ways of the Dragon" in the Spring 2024 edition of  the V & A  magazine published by London's Victoria & Albert Museum, V & A curator Sau Fong Chan discusses with writer Angela Hui on the dragon as a national symbol, and its changing role in fashion through time.
Photo by Lucia Carpio.

In the Spring 2024 issue of the V & A magazine published by London's Victoria & Albert Museum, V & A curator Sau Fong Chan discusses with writer Angela Hui on the topic "Ways of the Dragon," delving into the dragon as a national symbol and its shifting significance in the realm of fashion over time.

The representation of dragons in Chinese clothing is deeply rooted in Chinese history and symbolism. Dragons carry deep cultural and symbolic significance, representing imperial power, good fortune, cultural identity, and artistic expression. Wearing clothing adorned with dragon motifs not only reflects the wearer's connection to Chinese tradition but also invokes positive energy and protection in various aspects of life.

The V&A has a collection that includes traditional dragon robes worn by Chinese emperors, officials, and individuals of high status. These garments are richly adorned with intricate dragon embroidery or woven dragon patterns, reflecting the deep cultural and symbolic significance of dragons in Chinese tradition.

In addition to dragon robes, there are Chinese garments that represent different dynasties, regions, and social classes. The collection includes traditional hanfu, cheongsams, and other forms of Chinese attire, each with its unique features and designs.

Chan, who has written a book Chinese Dress in Detail published in October 2023, said throughout Chinese history, their garments are about decoration, material, weaving, dyeing, embroidery or the motif, telling a story through diverse techniques with historical significance.  Wearing clothing with dragon motifs serves as a way to express cultural identity and pride but can be also an expression of artistic creativity.

Dragons have long been associated with the imperial family and the emperor in Chinese culture. The dragon robe, known as "longpao" in Chinese, was a traditional garment worn exclusively by the emperor. The dragon symbolized the emperor's divine power, strength, and authority. The number of claws on the dragon depicted on the robe was crucial; five-clawed dragons were reserved for the emperor, while lesser officials were limited to dragons with fewer claws.

In Ways of the Dragon, the article features a magnificent embroidery of a dynamic five-toed dragon from a man's skirt circa 1700-50; an empress's festive robe depicting a dragon in tiny seed pearls and embroidery circa1850 - 1900; a 1930s bridal ensemble (qun gua) featuring the dragon and phoenix as marriage symbols; and a festive jacket for a Miao woman from the Guizhou region where embroidery is used to tell ancestral legends, circa 1940 - 50.

Dragons are considered highly auspicious in Chinese culture, symbolizing good fortune, prosperity, and success. Deeply ingrained in Chinese mythology and folklore, dragons are seen as benevolent creatures that symbolize the strength and vitality of the Chinese people. 

Dragons are believed to have the power to ward off evil spirits. Incorporating dragon symbols into clothing was thought to offer protection to the wearer, especially during important life events such as weddings and childbirth. It was a way to ensure a harmonious and auspicious beginning for significant life stages.