Innovative treatment of wool the highlight of International Woolmark Prize

Wool used in a variety of creative ways, with innovative treatments have won three designers top accolade at the 2017/18 InternationalWoolmark Prize

(L-R) Designers Matthew Miller, Christopher Bevans of DYNE and Ruchika Sachdeva of BODICE - winners of the International Woolmark Prize 2017/2018 on January 9, 2018 in Florence, Italy.
(Photo by Elisabetta Villa/Getty Images for the Woolmark Company) 

Matthew Miller’s winning collection has been described by Vogue Italia Editor-in-Chief
Emanuele Farneti as well-balanced with attractive price points.

Winner of the Menswear 2017/2018 International Woolmark Prize was British designer Matthew Miller.

At a special event during the Pitti Uomo menswear fair at Stazione Leopolda in Florence, Italy on 9^th January, Matthew’s winning collection was described by one of the judges Vogue Italia Editor-in-Chief Emanuele Farneti as well-balanced with attractive price points. “He showed a good combination between innovation, commercial viability and pieces which will be worn by men on the street," said Emanuele.

By taking up the idea of “form follows function” inspired by designer and philosopher Dieter Rams, Matthew added multifunctional elements for different environments, such as the addition of the garment belt system which acts as a way to turn the garment into an accessory in warmer climates.  Miller treated wool in a variety of ways, according to the IWS, including innovative treatments to create water resistant fabrics and has erased the need for plastic fastenings by using recycled material, such as waste marble.  Using Australian Merino wool ranging from 17.5 to 20.5 microns, Matthew developed the inherent character of each piece as his design philosophy.

The event also saw womenswear winner Bodice and Innovation Award winner DYNE awarded for their wool-rich collections.

Ruchika Sachdeva of Bodice produced an elegant collection honouring Australian Merino wool and the artisans of her country, India.

Representing India, Pakistan and the Middle East, Bodice by designer Ruchika Sachdevawas was  praised for her technique and the manufacturing process. 

Inspired by her grandmother who used to upcycle saris into quilts, Bodice addressed the issue of consumer waste in fashion with traditional techniques of recycling and cultural beliefs in the spiritual power of cloth to affect our well-being.   Judge womenswear designer Phillip Lim described Bodice's collection as "completely thoughtful". "From the ingredients and dyes used all the way to the application and everything in between, her collection really represents a modern woman."

Collaborating with hand weavers and encouraging them to take an unorthodox approach to traditional techniques, Ruchika Sachdeva produced an elegant collection honouring Australian Merino wool and the artisans of her country.  Bodice also worked with Bio-Dye in Sawantwadi, central India, which makes all colours from natural sources. The colour palette of navy and forest green mixed with pink and green pastels contains natural dyes and are safe for the skin - a nod to the ancient practices of Ayurveda. Completing the label's holistic approach, Bodice sourced buttons from renewable sources of coconut shell, seashell, and wood.

The collection of DYNE by Christopher Bevans comprised a technical snowboarding wardrobe, complete with an NFC chip in the water-resistant wool jacket to track users in avalanches and
ultimately bridge the gap between the brand and the consumer.

The Innovation Award powered by Future Tech Lab celebrates the collection with the most innovative and creative wool fabrication, process or development was awarded to DYNE by Christopher Bevans who according to the Woolmark Company demonstrated the most exciting approach to help reduce its social and environmental footprint. 

“For me he was definitely the leader in innovation,” said judge Miroslava Duma. “He really thinks about technology every step of the way.”

Inspired by learning to snowboard in the 1980s - in a wool bomber jacket - the DYNE collection  comprises a technical snowboarding wardrobe, complete with an NFC chip in the water-resistant wool jacket to track users in avalanches and ultimately bridge the gap between the brand and the consumer. DYNE describes itself as "liminal, as its garments are designed to operate on both sides of every threshold, and to break the existing barriers of fabric, fit and function."

The collection, crafted from Merino wool ranging between 17 and 19.5 microns, includes zip-up hoodies, track pants, trench coats and pullovers, treated so as to be water-repellent, with reflective overlays and inserts, functional pocket zips, laser-cut details and, in certain instances, two-way stretch.

The menswear and womenswear winners each receives AU$200,000 to help support the development of their business. They will also receive ongoing industry mentor support, Woolmark certification for their winning collection and the opportunity to be stocked in some of the world’s most prestigious department stores and boutiques.  DYNE receives AU$100,000 along with commercial opportunities.

Judges for the awards included Amber Valletta, Elizabeth Von Guttman, Emanuele Farneti, Julie Davies, Livia Firth, Liya Kebede, Miroslava Duma, Nonita Kalra, Phillip Lim, Riccardo Vannetti, Sarah Mower and Stuart McCullough along with representatives from the International Woolmark Prize retail partner network.

(Photos by Elisabetta Villa/Getty Images for the Woolmark Company)