Fresh talent alongside global brands on show at 100% Design in London

The unique quality of the 100% Design show, which returns during London Design Festival for its 23rd edition at Kensington Olympia, 20-23 September, lies in  its cross-sector appeal to design professionals, with five distinct sections: Interiors, Workplace, Kitchens & Bathrooms, Design & Build and Emerging Brands.

The show is instrumental in fostering relationships between some of the world’s biggest architects, designers, specifiers, retailers and developers.

Italian lighting company Studio Italia Design will launch three new collections at this year's 100% Desing show - Sugegasa, Nautilus and Random which features an unconventional design of modular, melted-blown pendants that mimic the shape and form of soap bubbles.   Information and photo from 100% Design.

With over 600 exhibitors launching hundreds of new products, last year’s event was attended by more than 27,000 visitors with delegate spending power unmatched in the UK, reaching a combined £3.9 billion.

Interiors is the longest running section at 100% Design, presenting prestigious international brands with products ranging from furniture and lighting to fabrics and accessories.

Mid-century and art deco-inspired designs are prominent in this section this year, with brands such as Mambo Unlimited, Due and Mullan Lighting, who will launch a new range of lights for hotels at the show.

Upholstery, furniture and lighting brand Bow and Arrow will launch Olinda, a new collection of armchairs, sofas and furniture. Contract furniture supplier Andy Thornton Ltd will launch new workstations, hospitality furniture and decorative lighting, while there are new furniture and lighting products from UK studio Woodlikes.

A dedicated platform for the freshest new ideas, Emerging Brands reflects 100% Design’s original ethos of launching new talent, having been the launchpad for stalwarts such as Ella Doran, Tom Dixon and Barber Osgerby.

One of the emerging brands to show at 100% Design is Edinburgh-based designer Mairi Helena who specialises in high-end luxury home accessories for interiors and fashion whose novel designs are created using influences from her photographic portfolio of Scotland.   Photo and information from 100% Design

Joining the section this year is Odddot, who will launch new furniture and lighting products at 100% Design. They are joined by London florist and plant shop Grace & Thorn Ltd who also feature for the first time.

TMI Laura Itkonen will launch several new wall art products, while British lifestyle brand Elizabeth James returns to launch new coasters and placemats to mark the company’s second appearance at 100% Design.

Other exhibitors in Emerging Brands include mirror manufacturer Alguacil & Perkoff Ltd, furniture designers Thirty Line Design, lighting company Mash.T Design Studio, upholstery brand Citradi and interior print designer Mairi Helena.

100% Design’s Workplace section is the only one of its kind in the UK, according to organisers. With a marketplace growing globally, the section spotlights the innovative work being done by companies around the world to improve both productivity and the experience of the workplace itself. The range of commercial design on show includes desking, seating, electronic innovations, acoustic panels, storage systems, lighting and flooring.

Office furniture is responding to demands of more sociable and collaborative work environments, evident in the showcases of British brand Protocol and French furniture company Alki. The introduction of soft shapes and vibrant colours reflects the increasingly acknowledged link between comfort and productivity.

Also furniture giant Kinnarps will be on trend and will launch three new chairs by their brands Materia, Skandiform and NC. All of them are designed by Karim Rashid and new to the UK.

Roche Bobois’ latest collaboration with a French fashion maestro

The French furniture brand Roche Bobois is known for its diversity of French design, from contemporary to modern classics and traditional lines. It is known for its long-established network of European manufacturers and also for its relationships with talented furniture and product designers and also with prestigious fashion houses including Jean Paul Gaultier, Sonia Rykiel Maison, Missoni Home and Christian Lacroix Maison.

Now Roche Bobois has announced that it is working with another of the giants in the fashion world for its iconic Mah Jong sofa system - low slung, modular sofa - which has enjoyed over the years a number of restyles from high-profile fashion designers, including Jean Paul Gautier who had used his Haute Couture-inspired fabrics and signature sailor-style stripes for the system.

Launching in September 2017, the latest incarnation of the Roche Bobois' Mah Jong sofa system comes from the founder of the iconic French luxury house Kenzo - Monsieur Kenzo Takada himself.

For his design, the French-Japanese designer has embraced the traditional kimono, creating a rich and colourful range of Japanese-influenced fabrics. The exclusive collection is available is Roche Bobois showrooms from September 2017, along with a complementary collection of Kenzo-designed cushions and vases.

Kenzo represents the first generation of Japanese couture designers who have chosen Paris as their base.  Lately while interest in Japanese culture and designs have been surging in the lead-up to the next Summer Olympic games which will be hosted by Tokyo, this latest move by Roche Bobois to work with Kenzo symbolises a close link once again between European and Oriental cultures.  No doubt the new collaboration will continue to drive the Mah Jong sofa system's global appeal.

Anabela Chan's jewellery are objects of desire

London-based Anabela Chan may not be a household name yet, but her deliciously sumptuous and enchanting and exquisitely hand-made jewellery are  already counted among red-carpet favourites for A-list celebrities, the likes of Lady Gaga, Rita Ora and FKA Twigs.

Using a gamut of precious and semi-precious stones as well as sustainable and ethical laboratory-grown gemstones, Anabela's main focus are in the intricate workmanship that bring out best of the myriad of colours.

Anabela's designs are bold with a sense of drama but many are like miniature sculptures, or pieces of artwork.

Dancing butterflies fluttering around blossoms with a dangling tear-drop diamond for a pair of romantic earrings, or a magical setting of a butterfly resting on a bouquet of orchards for a ring.

Diamonds may appear as clusters of stars or floating in space in her Constellation range, while in the Couture Jewellery collection, Anabela takes you on a mythical journey into a paradise garden borrowing features from nature: fern leaves, butterflies and beetles for a necklace, ear-cuffs, brooch and bracelet.

Originally trained as an architect, Anabela's flagship boutique in London is situated just a stone's throw from the buzzling Piccadilly Circus, but quietly tucked in the discrete courtyard of Ham Yard Village on Denman Place on the doorstep of Ham Yard Hotel.

Designed like a curiosity shop decorated with glass jars to showcase the jewellery, adorned with objets d'art and taxidermy specimens, the shop is uniquely enchanting for the discerning lady in search of something magical.

Anabela was born into 3 generations of film directors and cinematographers, having grown up in London and Paris, and trained at the world-renowned Royal College of Art and Gemmological Association of Great Britain.

According to her CV,  Anabela had worked with iconic architect Lord Richard Rogers and Fashion Designer Alexander McQueen in London for 7 years before returning to jewellery to launch her eponymous label in 2013 and opening her London boutique in November 2014.

While happy to accept commission work, one of Anabela's recent special projects are couture hand-embroidered one-of-a-kind cushions produced in collaboration with her friend Mane Virdee.  Note the glittering list of materials used for this collaboration:- crystal and glass beads, metallic gold and silver embroidery threads, hand dyed cotton and silk threads, velvet as shown on the kaleidoscope-like pattern formed on the cushion in the picture above with the help of Emily Gore who works for Anabela Chan.

To date, Anabela has won many international design awards:-
British Goldsmiths’ Craftsmanship and Design Awards in Fine Jewellery, Platinum Jewellery 2012, 2013
Gemmological Association of Great Britain Award 2012
Studio William Cutlery Design Gold Award 2012
Sponsored by Swarovski 2012, 2013
ITS Finalist 2012, 2013
Vogue VFDE New Talent Award 2014

Anabela Chan is London's best kept secret no more.

All photos © Lucia Carpio 2017 

Want to be holiday-ready? Be sure to pack creative artwork in luxury silk.

Today in a world that often appears to be swirling out of control, it is utterly important to take time off to clear our minds and allow us some peaceful moments on a more controllable personal level.

A Travel Collection, from silk dresses to scarfs and jewellery,
sequin bags and cashmere jumpers ...
 the list of luxury travel essentials goes on
at The NottingHill travel collective event in June.

But with what valuable space we have in our bags when packing for the much-anticipated summer holiday, taking pride of place among the sun cream, hats, swim suits, sarong and sandals must be the all-essential, versatile scarf.

Catering for our varying styling needs, a number of designers have taken the scarf to a whole different level, transferring their creative ideas and inspirations onto beautiful silks that allow us to embrace luxury and benefit from the practical fashion solutions that scarfs offer to the discerning voyager.

So it was great to find among the artwork on display at London's Saatchi Gallery last week emerging London-based designers who have taken the opportunity of the Scoop International boutique trade fair to showcase their illustrious work on scarfs to entice fashion buyers and press.



Showing in the newly launched Scoop Salon space of the fair dedicated to UK and international accessories brands, designer Ira Avezov (originally from Russia) was keen to show her "wearable images" that she had transferred onto her beautifully made silk scarf sold under her IA London label.

Seen here holding one of her designs - the All of Me scarf featuring the many faces of one woman, Ira explained that for every design she makes, she always starts with an image in her mind, and is often a story behind the images, then the imagery she creates will be digitally printed onto luxury silk.

© Lucia Carpio 2017 

© Lucia Carpio 2017 

© Lucia Carpio 2017 

But of course Ira's designs are not just for our summer get-away but for use all year round, having that distinctive fashion forward edge.   Ira layers her designs with a profusion of brush-stroke colours or creates monochrome effects on abstract images.

© Lucia Carpio 2017 

Working with high quality silk and using meticulous UK workmanship, Ira is also transferring her designs onto men's tops launched this summer and has plans to show womenswear in the autumn.  Ira only started her brand a year ago and already has attracted wide attention through other shows such as the London Fashion Week.  Can't wait to see her new collection under development.

Also showing at Scoop Salon was the scarf label DolceRoopa founded by Roopa Sachidanand (in photo at right), originally from New York.

Her luxury range highlights the designer's wanderlust inspiration featuring her travel experiences in Europe, London and New York.

Roopa said each illustration is intricately watercoloured by hand before being designed  and digitally printed.  The Italian Riviera and Marrakech collections draw upon colour, pattern and the dynamic use of print offering lavish pops of colours for varying styling options.

Elsewhere at Scoop and moving away from scarfs, I was intrigued by the Longstaff Longstaff brand where its silk loungewear are so pretty and soft they should be worn beyond the boudoir.

© Lucia Carpio 2017 

Sourced and manufactured in the UK, the brand was founded in 2014 by Sophie Barnard who has a Russian lineage that led to a passion for bold, highly decorative patterns and vibrant colours.

While modelling one of her kimono designs for me to show its versatility (as shown in photo above), Sophie said she hand-paints her original prints which are digitally transferred onto luxurious silks.

© Lucia Carpio 2017 

She launches her Komo collection this summer with the influence of Japanese art, featuring watery flowers and silver, inspired by illustrations from the 19th century using water and ink.

Poetically, the pinks and reds bleed together in her bold flowers while the petals fade at the edges and drift into the water.

She has used some of her signature prints for scarfs with which she has modeled again for me to show off its wonderful effect.

NEW Modernist London Poster Book from Oscar Francis

MODERNIST LONDON - 22 POSTERS OF INSPIRATIONAL ARCHITECTURE

As interest in Brutalist and modernist architecture is undergoing a major revival, this collection of poster art created by an architect turned illustrator will thrill fans of architecture and London alike.

From the National Theatre on the Southbank, to Willow Road in Hampstead, Sarah Evans, the architect and designer behind Oscar Francis, has captured the patterns and textures that make Brutalist and modernist architecture so intriguing, creating images that celebrate the pure aesthetics of these forward-thinking, utopian designs. Reproduced on high quality paper, these pullout pages will make ideal wall decorations for anyone who loves modernist architecture.

OSCAR FRANCIS is a London-based studio creating bold graphics inspired by the city founded by architect turned illustrator Sarah Evans. Release dates:
US November 15, 2017
UK October 15, 2017

London's Textile Council names Carlo Volpi their new member

Texprint, the London-based charity that nurtures, supports and promotes UK textile design graduates and organises an annual competition for new talent, has announced that one of their alumni - Italian knitwear designer Carlo Volpi - as the newest member on the Texprint Council which meets twice yearly to monitor and review how the charity is performing against its aims an objectives.

Volpi, who was a Texprint designer himself in 2012, loves vibrant clashes of colour, creative stitches and textures.  According to Texprint, there is a joyous and celebratory element to his work, describing Volpi's work as upbeat, exuberant, happy.    Barbara Kennington, honorary chairman of Texprint, says: “Carlo is such an original talent. We’re delighted he brings his energy and passion to the Texprint Council.”

Every year, Texprint invites one alumnus to present his or her work at the entrance to the Texprint London Preview event.  Carlo Volpi was the designer of choice for  the 2017 event held in July.

Volpi has already achieved wide ranging success.  While working to build his own label, he also collaborates with leading brands, and is a consultant for the Research Area at Pitti Filati. 

Among his recent achievements was winning first prize in the prestigious Who Is On Next? Uomo competition, promoted by Vogue Italia and Pitti Immagine (Italy's fashion trade fair organisers). 

The judges highlighted his “marked technical and innovative skill combined with a brilliant interpretation of Italian manufacturing traditions in a unique knitwear project with an international look.”

Vogue Italia raved about Volpi’s Autumn/Winter 17/18 collection, calling it “totally wild – a concentrate of youthful enthusiasm.” Volpi commented “My point of reference is irreverence. I am interested in the parameters we use to define what we consider attractive or ugly.”

All photos © Lucia Carpio 2017. 

ERDEM x H&M launching 2 November

By revealing that the next designer that H&M is collaborating will be ERDEM, the London-based label, you will know that floral prints will continue to be an important focus come Autumn/Winter 2017.  “I’ve always been fascinated by things that explore femininity,” says the designer, “whether it’s lace or flowers or the aesthetics of beauty.”

H&M creative advisor Ann-Sofie Johansson, designer Erdem Moralıoğlu (in blue), and filmmaker Baz Luhrmann together on location in England.  Image courtesy of H&M.

Designer Erdem Moralioglu is known for his exquisite romantic clothes loved by women and A-listed celebrities for red-carpet moments.  To be launched on November 2 in selected stores and online, the new collection ERDEM x H&M will celebrate the power of beauty by exploring historical references and personal narratives, and feature a full wardrobe of feminine womenswear, an accessories line and, for the first time ever, a collection for men.

H&M has also announced that visionary film director Baz Luhrmann will bring the collection to life through his unique storytelling in the new promotional film.

Erdem was born in Montreal, Canada, to a Turkish father and English mother, a twin with his sister Sara. He moved to London to study fashion at the Royal College of Art in 2000, before launching his own label in 2005.   His label has now grown to become one of London’s most successful, with his shows one of the highlights of London Fashion Week. He’s won multiple awards, including Womenswear Designer of the Year at the British Fashion Awards in 2014, and his collections are stocked in the most prestigious stores around the world.

Tesco announces commitment to detox its textile production

One of the UK' top supermarket chains which is counted among the world's largest retailers, Tesco has joined some 80 international brands and suppliers committed to the Green Peace Detox campaign to become toxic-free since the campaign began in 2011.

A glimpse on Tesco's F&F AW2017/18 collection.

© Lucia Carpio 2017 

Tesco has today (July 14th) announced they will immediately begin the process of eliminating hazardous chemicals from the supply chain of their garment brand F&F, and will release a full list of their suppliers.

According to the Tesco Detox commitment, the retailer's own fashion brand F&F are committed to knowing where their fabrics are produced and that the garments are legal, safe and free from harmful chemicals, wherever in the world their products are made, and ensuring that they are manufactured in a way that protects the workers in our supply chains and safeguards the environment. 

See also  the detailed list of substances that Tesco will eliminate.

To date, the companies and brands that have committed to detoxing now represent 15% of the worldwide textile production, according to the Greenpeace campaign.  They include M&S, H&M, Benetton, Levi Strauss, Aldi, Lidl and Tchibo.

The Greenpeace Detox Catwalk website features all the brands and suppliers who have made this commitment and tracks their progress.

Kirsten Brodde, Project Lead of Detox Campaign, Greenpeace Germany, said:
“The Detox standard is the new industry baseline - in only six years, forerunners of the textile sector went from total denial and opacity of their supply chain to transparency and the banning of all hazardous chemicals. Tesco’s commitment shows the rest of the industry that using hazardous chemicals is not an option anymore.”

“Tesco now has the opportunity to match the progress being made by other retailers and Greenpeace will monitor it closely to ensure they follow up their commitment,” said Brodde.

Blossom Premiere Vision gives first insight into new textiles for Autumn/Winter 18/19 season

Luxury Jersey - fabrics combining sporty and elegant attributes were on
show at Blossom Premiere Vision.
The watchword for this new autumn winter 18/19 collection
is TRANSFORMATION, i.e. transforming fabrics
initially conceived for ready-to-wear
 into fabrics for street-style looks,
with a special focus on Athletic-Leisure. 

For those in the fashion trade looking for advance fabric and leather inspiration before the main trade show season in the autumn, Blossom Première Vision which was held at the Palais Brongniart in Paris last week ( 4 - 5 July) offered them a first glimpse of things to come.

Organisers reported an atmosphere of optimism after two days of a productive show that saw visitor numbers went up by 23% - registering 1,058 visitors compared to 861 in the launch event in July 2016.

This third edition was crowned a major success, with industry professionals broadly voicing their enthusiasm.  Following France, Italy had the 2nd largest number of visitors, with attendance up by 3.5 % over the July 2016 event. In 3rd place were visitors from the United Kingdom (+ 26%), while the United States (4th) and Belgium (5th) - both showed a stable but significant presence.

Launched one year ago by the Première Vision trade fair group, the show dedicated to pre-collections - so-called to allow early showing to the industry  -  is today part of Europe's dynamic trade show calendar.

Designed to maximise exposure for each o the 90 exhibiting companies, the open layout format evoking the style of intimate showrooms made it a user-friendly environment to conduct business.

Said show director, Guglielmo Olearo: "Our exhibitors are more than satisfied with this edition. They were able to meet with their key customers in a working yet friendly atmosphere. Precollections are most definitely a creative period on their own, independent of the international catwalk shows. Yet in a similar vein, they rely on creativity to stand out and be competitive.  Today, a pre-collection can represent up to 60% of the season’s turnover. They are of major importance to the luxury brands, to which Blossom Première Vision has responded with this custom offer, in a timeframe that’s complementary to the Première Vision Paris shows."

Among the highlights, Denis & Fils's pre-collection showcases femininity in plain silks that are fluid, structured, glazed or shaded. Light or quilted jacquards, along with textiles that evoke feelings, emotions and shine are the earliest indicators of our autumn winter 18/19 collection.

From Denis & Fils: sensations, emotions and brilliance, as shown here and showcased at Blossom Premiere Vision. 

Also look out for fabrics with an understated and luminous nature to autumn winter 18/19, as those showed by Hurel (in photo above).  Along with classic silks, their plains are rich with texture, and free of any notion of uniformity. In terms of fancies, the new designs include unique colours and shine pointing to an understated and luminous nature.

Malhia Kent of France - fabric doyen to high fashion - staged a special 2-day atelier during the  Blossom PV fair to show off its hand-loom capabilities, from yarn selection to warp preparation and hand-woven sampling.  

Images supplied by the Premiere Vision group.

Ziad Nakad dreams up gowns for a magical Snow Crystal Forest

A romantic vision of modern goddesses in magical colours: from snow flakes white to a spectrum of smoky greys and glittering silver, wintry purples, velvet, tulle, lace, intricate embroideries and elaborate beading in soft reds and  powdery pinks, midnight blues, champagne and white.

For this Autumn-Winter 2017/2018 collection on show recently at the Paris Haute Couture Fashion Shows, Zaid Nakad, born of a Lebanese descent, dreams up gowns for "The Snow Crystal Forest",.

Celebrities and headline-grabbing society women seeking their memorable red carpet moment would be spoiled for choice as the designer known for combining sophistication and luxury with head-turning drama turns out design after design of show-stopper evening gowns.

Body-revealing femininity manifest through the use of cut-outs on the back and shoulders as each gown shines through extraordinary detailing, accentuating statuesque figures in a fairy tale.

And among the most alluring of his head-turning gowns on show at the Hôtel Westin Paris Vendôme are creations for brides, dressed like a queen or a modern day goddess in white and muted gold illuminated through dramatic sequence and embroidery  for a dramatic effect.

Photo Credit : Kirsty Sparow / Getty Images for Ziad Nakad

Jewellery and Body Ornaments from ABE by Ariane Chaumeil

Beauty and eternity are the meaning of my work. From them is born the collection « PAST TO PRESENT » 

ABE is by Ariane Chaumeil, a glasswork artist who makes jewellery and body ornaments with distinctive techniques: melting glass, sawing, bending, and welding metal, linking metal to form meshes as if she's working with a piece of fabric, and crafting with feathers; Ariane creates an antique look for her Autumn/Winter 2017/18 collection shown last week during Paris Haute Couture Fashion Week.

As she reflects, "I love this freedom of speech! So many years for reaching it… since my childhood; the thirst of discovering, the curiosity brought to me (from) so many artistic experiences, my first kind of intimate expression. I admire so much the perfection of masterpieces, the transcendence of freedom of speech, the beauty…

"Like many of my peers, my goal is to discover the world, to show my vision of the beauty and of the poetry through my creations. This is an introspection, and also a free interpretation of the world around," according to Ariane Chaumeil in Paris last week.