Novelty fabrics for SS18 - a showcase of new technical and creative styles

Evening fabrics and novelty textiles showcased at Premiere Vision Paris in February 2 - 9 for the Spring/Summer 2018 season displayed a wide range of schematic patterns and appealing surface textures that point to a fresh and optimistic outlook full of innovation and imagination.

The PV fashion team described the SS2018 season as one that is simple yet extraordinary.  Neither naive nor romantic, but rather highly graphic and contemporary.  Definitely a season infushed with creative energy, featuring flowery or geometric lace and guipure with well-defined contours, schematic patterns in two-tone or three-tone colourways with refined contrasts for maximum visibility, as far as evening fashion fabrics are concerned.

While there were sparkling examples, such as mixing cellophane and iridescent yarns, there were also colourful reflections and exuberant, full-coloured metals to enhance jacquards.  There were also dishevelled, fringed patterning, applique embroideres and flowers budding in pulsating scales, featuring greenhouse plants and exotic natural themes burgeoning with flowers, leaves and birds of paradise.

British textile mills and design studios' new creations for high fashion shone through in this genre where new technical and creative styles were highlighted.  

The variety of decorative visual details enriched with visual fantasy played off a complicity that was clever, modern and yet embracing.  Any designer wishing to present their clothing as objects of desire would be spoilt for choice.    A decorative showcase of exuberance for an optimistic future indeed from the British mills.

British creativity and technology knowhow when combined with Asian workmanship produced extraordinary results as showcased by the London Embroidery Studio which participated in a special zone at the fair called Maison D'Exceptions dedicated to high creativity, targetting fashion designers and luxury brands.
Founded in 2007 in London, the studio combines digital and analog techniques to produce made to measure embroidery and adornments.  The company was set up by Royal College of Art graduate Andrew Kenny whose founding aim was to tie together research practice and studio production in the promotion of design-led embroidery practice.

Also featured at Maison D'Exceptions was British company Rare Thread, a textile studio/collective conceived by Laura Miles and Kirsty McDougall incorporating a team of designers and specialists.  The studio has worked with couture names such as Valentino, Chanel, Balenciaga, YSL and other top brands including Calvin Klein and Christopher Kane, with its global networks scross yarn, material, woven manufacturing and finish.  The studio also produces small-scale series in varied and uncommon formats, combining experimental techniques to achieve surprising results.

The UK Fashion & Textile Association (UKFT) stand at the Premiere Vision Paris trade fair February 7 - 9  2017.

From Stephen Walters & Sons, the SS18 collection launched at PV covered womenswear, menswear and neckwear fabrics boasting a broad range that featured the company's signature combination of superior technical expertise and intensely creative spirity.  Both contemporary and heritage inspirations were very much in evidencr, displaying refined, sophisticated fabrics with luxe appeal.
"Our SS18 collection is a wonderful demonstration of both the technical capabilities of our historic Suffolk silk mill, and the innovative, fashion forward vision of our design team, " said Bruce Crabtree, Design Director of Stephen Walters and Sons.  "Thesse exceptional strengths not only enable us to create the finest fabrics for menswear, womenswear and neckwear, but also undertake creative partnerships with fashion houses, producing unique designs for their signature collections."

Meanwhile Bella Tela, another English design house, showcased a wide range of evening wear couture fabrics in its new collection, showcasing widely sourced materials combined with state of the art contemporary embroidery, as well as traditional manufacturing techniques.

New additions to Litmans Lace & Fabrics included luxury crepe and Marocain fabrics, stretch chiffon and stin, French Style Chantilly laces and on-trend metallic shimmer fabrics, geometric, sequin and luxurious 3D stretch laces.

All photos © Lucia Carpio 2017