Product Launch: Bobbi Beck goes for gold with new William Morris Wallpaper Collection

Bobbi Beck, a British design & print studio specialising in sustainably-made luxury wallpaper, has newly launched William Morris Gold wallpapers, a collection that places a refined gold twist on some of the most iconic Morris patterns, bringing a fresh decorative perspective to home interiors.

AS one of the most influential figures in decorative arts, Victorian designer William Morris was a leading voice in the Arts and Crafts movement; he pushed back against industrial mass production, championing craftsmanship, beauty, and integrity in design.  He transformed wallpaper and textiles into serious art forms, creating nature-inspired patterns featuring flowers, vines, birds, and foliage arranged in richly layered, rhythmic repeats. Among his most celebrated designs are Strawberry Thief, Willow Bough, and Trellis — all of which have inspired Bobbi Beck’s new Gold collection.

The new range has been developed as a celebration of design heritage and elevated craftsmanship, exploring how gold can add richness and depth to patterns that are already deeply expressive. The refined finish introduces a sense of luxury that feels considered rather than ornate, enhancing the visual impact of each design while remaining true to its origins.

James Mellan-Matulewicz, Creative Director at Bobbi Beck says “Gold wallpaper brings a unique sense of warmth to a room, it doesn’t just sit on the wall, it interacts with light and the atmosphere around it. The subtle glow of the gold finish makes spaces feel richer and more inviting.”

“Morris’s patterns continue to inspire 160 years on, they resonate with a desire for authenticity and character in interiors that feels just as relevant now as it did then. Reinterpreting these designs with gold brings a new layer of excitement honouring the intricacy and originality of his work” explains Mellan-Matulewicz, who is also a founding member of Bobbi Beck in Cornwall.  Its wallpaper is designed and produced in-house using FSC-certified paper and toxic-free inks. Its dedicated design and production studio runs on 100% renewable energy.

This luxurious collection breathes a luminous new life into the iconic botanical patterns of the 19th century, blending the intricate organic forms of the Arts & Crafts movement with a modern, sheen metallic palette. Featuring beloved designs such as Bough and Strawberry Thief, each roll is rendered in a rich, honeyed gold that shifts beautifully under varying light conditions. The collection offers homeowners a way to infuse their spaces with a warmth that feels both timeless and decidedly bold.

The collection offers remarkable versatility, effortlessly adapting to a wide range of interior styles and architectural settings. In a grand, traditional dining room, the gold-on-gold patterns provide a long-lasting effect that honors the heritage of William Morris, while in a sleek, contemporary living space, they act as an impactful, metallic statement piece.

Mellan-Matulewicz says to style the William Morris Goes Gold collection, aim for a “Modern Maximalist” aesthetic that balances the wallpaper’s ornate shimmer with deep, saturated colours. This approach reflects a clear shift in current interior trends towards more bold, personality-led decorating, where spaces are designed to tell a story rather than fade into the background.  By giving these iconic designs a gold twist, the collection presents a fresh perspective on a celebrated legacy, demonstrating how Morris continues to feel relevant in today’s homes.

Modern maximalism embraces richness and confidence, creating the perfect counterpoint to the gold detailing, allowing the wallpaper to feel opulent yet grounded. Rather than matching everything precisely, the focus is on curated contrast, mixing textures, layering materials to create depth and dimension. Ultimately, these wallpapers are designed to take centre stage, setting the tone for expressive, character-filled spaces.

Sustainability Collaboration: British Fashion Council Adopts Copenhagen Fashion Week's Sustainability Requirements

Copenhagen Fashion Week's Sustainability Requirements has been leading the fashion industry since its inception in 2020, and its introduction of a minimum set of standards that all CPHFW show & presentation schedule brands have had to conform to was adopted in January 2023.

Now the British Fashion Council and Copenhagen Fashion Week announce a new collaboration, joining forces to align their efforts to accelerate the industry's sustainability actions across the Nordic and British fashion markets. 

As part of the collaboration, the BFC will roll out the Sustainability Requirements framework developed by CPHFW. This will kick off with the BFC NEWGEN initiative in 2025, where the Minimum Standards will be embedded into the existing mandatory criteria for admission. Following an onboarding and piloting period, the full implementation will come into effect fully by January 2026.

BFC NEWGEN is the world leading designer programme which supports the best emerging fashion design talent and represents key voices in the British fashion industry. Applications are now open for highly creative designer fashion businesses that has been actively trading for less than 3 years.

Caroline Rush, Chief Executive, British Fashion Council said: "We are thrilled to align with the Copenhagen Fashion Week Sustainability Requirements across BFC NEWGEN, this builds on our existing Minimum Standards and reaffirms our commitment to driving positive change across the global fashion industry. This partnership is a significant step in ensuring that sustainability becomes integral to the future of fashion. Together, we are creating a framework that empowers emerging designer fashion businesses to lead the way and contribute tangibly to a more sustainable and responsible industry."

Cecilie Thorsmark, CEO of Copenhagen Fashion Week said:  "We are delighted to join forces with the British Fashion Council to further expand the reach of our Sustainability Requirements. This partnership not only fosters much-needed industry alignment but also underscores the unique potential of fashion weeks and councils to drive positive change within the industry. With the British Fashion Council, as an influential player in the global fashion landscape, we see a lot of potential to further amplify the impact of our collective commitment to sustainability."

This partnership is a key part of the BFC's ongoing work through its Institute of Positive Fashion (IPF). The IPF was launched as a think tank to address the fashion industry's environmental impact and aims to guide the industry toward sustainable practices, promoting climate action while serving as a platform for research, collaboration and education to accelerate positive change. 2025 marks five years of the IPF and this collaboration with CPHFW underscores the BFC's continued commitment to drive a more sustainable future. 

About the Sustainability Requirements 

The Sustainability Requirements were introduced by Copenhagen Fashion Week in close collaboration with their Knowledge Partners In Futurum and Dansk Fashion & Textile in January 2020. Since then, they have been updated during 2024 to reflect industry developments as well as changes in the EU policy landscape. The framework represents an essential part of CPHFW's sustainability strategy to drive comprehensive change in the fashion industry and was reviewed by their Advisory Board and an international panel of experts.

Since its launch, the Norwegian Fashion Hub, Oslo Runway and Berlin Fashion Week executed by Fashion Council Germany have embarked on the implementation of the Sustainability Requirements framework.

Meanwhile Copenhagen Fashion Week recently announced it had won the PETA Fashion Awards 2024, having gone fur-free. CFW has also removed wild-animal skins and feathers from the runways, reflecting its commitment to more ethical practices.⁠⁠

Textile Trade: Texworld and Apparel Sourcing Paris set to return to Le-Bourget exhibition centre in January 2025; second event rescheduled to September

International trade fairs are essential for professionals to stay updated on industry trends, forge key business relationships, discover new innovations, and effectively navigate the global market. This is especially true for the textile and fashion industries, where fairs serve not just as showcases but as dynamic marketplaces for knowledge, creativity, and collaboration that shape the future of the field.

For fashion designers and makers, these fairs are foundational, providing access to the materials, inspiration, and innovations they need to bring their creative visions to life.

In Paris, one of the world’s premier fashion hubs, trade shows like Première Vision and Texworld And Apparel Sourcing hold immense importance. Held twice a year, they are crucial hubs for innovation, networking, and business growth, offering significant benefits to attendees. The next Première Vision will take place from February 11–13, 2025 at Parc des Expositions in Villepinte, while Texworld and Apparel Sourcing, organized by Messe Frankfurt Paris, will be held from February 10–12, 2025 at Paris-Le Bourget exhibition centre; both will be focusing on Spring-Summer 2026 collections.

Organizers expect a strong turnout of buyers and fashion brands at Texworld and Apparel Sourcing, giving attendees access to global sourcing opportunities for designing and building their Spring-Summer 2026 collections. This return to the Paris-Le Bourget Exhibition Centre venue is significant, as the exhibition center was unavailable for the last two seasons due to its use during the 2024 Summer Olympics. In the interim, Texworld and its related fairs were relocated to the Parc de Versailles fair ground in south Paris.

In addition, Messe Frankfurt has announced that its second Texworld And Apparel Sourcing fair in 2025 will now take place from September 15–17, moving from July to better align with the fashion industry’s creative cycles. This calendar shift, along with the presence of sectors like Avantex and Leatherworld, ensures that sourcing and order placements are more closely tied to collection development timelines.  The July 2024 edition held a couple of weeks before the Summer Olympics welcomed some 1,200 exhibitors from 26 countries. 

To enhance the experience for buyers, the layout of Texworld and Apparel Sourcing Paris will be reconfigured. International suppliers will be housed in Halls 3 and 4, with new synergies created across sectors, such as a dedicated women’s wardrobe section in Hall 4 and a large space for outdoor, sportswear, and casualwear in Hall 3. Services like the trends forum, restaurants, and the Agora—where conferences and roundtables will be held—will be consolidated in Hall 2, offering a more cohesive and efficient experience for attendees.

This reorganization is expected to strengthen the fair’s offerings, with encouraging booking levels suggesting an active and dynamic session. The event underscores the vital role played by European markets in the fashion sector, from ready-to-wear to luxury, with major sourcing nations such as China, Turkey, India, and others well represented.

One noteworthy aspect is the continuation of the Yarn Expo pavilion, which focuses on yarn sourcing and the expertise of leading spinning companies, a concept first introduced in July 2024. Messe Frankfurt’s team is dedicated to meeting the evolving demands of the market, with a strong focus on sustainability. As Julien Schmoll, Marketing and Communications Director at Messe Frankfurt France, highlighted, “Buyers, brand managers, and designers come to Paris looking for players who can export and meet the sustainable development objectives that consumers are imposing on the fashion world today.”

A key initiative is the focus on sustainable fashion, driven by the Econogy principle and promoted worldwide through Messe Frankfurt’s Texpertise Network. The Econogy Finder will help buyers identify suppliers of sustainably produced textiles, while Econogy Talks will offer a platform for discussing environmental issues, and the Econogy Tours, first launched in July 2024, will return for the February 2025 event, offering specialized insights into sustainable sourcing.

All photos courtesy of Messe Frankfurt Paris/Texworld and Apparel Sourcing Paris - July 2024 event.

Made To Be Remade collection in Chasing Circularity unveiled by adidas at Design London

Germany-based sportswear brand adidas presented Chasing Circularity exhibition during Design London Festival in September 2022 to showcase the progress it has made to drive its sustainability progamme.

Trade visitors were treated to the latest innovations through the one-off exhibition at Greenwich Peninsula.

One of the key focus of the exhibtion  was the unveiling of a tracksuit under the adidas by Stella McCartney brand, which was described as a “first of its kind sportswear garment designed to demonstrate the potential of a circular fashion ecosystem”.  

The gender-neutral tracksuit was made using viscose and was designed in collaboration with an EU Consortium.   It will be available from 6 October.

In charting adidas' journey since the launch of its FUTURECRAFT.LOOP programme introduced in 2019, the company's Senior Director of Sustainability Concepts (Footwear and Apparel), Paul Smith, (pictured here|) said the exhibition was to give visitors a look into adidas' "made to be remade" journey to push further into sustainability.  

He said adidas wanted to show how it has progressed from having its first shoe made entirely from one material, and then ground down to be remade into a new product after use, thus kick-starting the brand's circular transition towards producing a wide range of products.

By using a unique technology, consumers can wear the new adidas by Stella McCartney tracksuit until it’s worn out, and then return it by scanning the QR code on the adidas app. The product can be sent back to Infinited Fiber Company’s recycling stream where it can be broken down to be reused. This is an advantage of its Made To Be Remade concept to ensure less waste goes into the fashion eco-system.

When adidas first revealed FUTURECRAFT.LOOP in 2018/19, its’first shoe made entirely from one material was ground down and remade into a new product after use, and kick-started the brand’s circular transition towards producing a wide range of goods.  

Smith said the latest Made To Be Remade apparel and footwear collections have been made in collaboration with an EU Consortium, demonstrating the potential of a circular fashion ecosystem.

Across a three-year timeline, the consortium collected and sorted post-consumer end-of-life textiles, which using pioneering Infinited Fiber technology, have been regenerated into a new textile fiber called Infinna™️. Made from 99% post-consumer textile waste, Infinna™️ looks and feels just like virgin cotton. Infinna™️ fiber, which by fiber name belongs to the viscose family, is then turned into a yarn blended with organic cotton for garment production.

Creating an innovative piece for its Made To Be Remade program, this unique technology means consumers can wear the new adidas by Stella McCartney sportswear set until it’s worn out, and then return it by scanning the QR code on the adidas app. The product can be sent back to Infinited Fiber Company’s recycling stream where it can be broken down to be reused, ensuring less waste goes into the fashion eco-system.

As part of the collection, adidas also unveiled its latest Made To Be Remade Ultraboost running shoe, which was initially launched last year. 

Meanwhile the label’s Terrex Made To Be Remade Padded Anorak, an insulated jacket made with the new loop creation process, is a trail-ready piece that provides a better alternative to the standard economy of make, use and dispose.  Smith added that this Anorak is a great example of how adidas can bring in more and more complexity into a product.

Photos © Lucia Carpio 2022 taken at the adidas Chasing Circularity exhibition during Design London Festival held in September 2022 in Greenwich Peninsula.

VISHAL TOLAMBIA is the winner of the IMAGINING SUSTAINABLE FASHION AWARD 2022

Congratulations to Vishal Tolambia, winner of the 2022 Imagining Sustainable Fashion Award established by Connecting Cultures and C.L.A.S.S. with the aim of  creating new visual imagery and innovative models of communication in sustainable fashion.

A still from the winning project

The winner of the competition, now in its second year, was announced during a webinar broadcast on March 30 attended by Giusy Bettoni CEO of C.L.A.S.S. Eco Hub, Anna Detheridge President of Connecting Cultures, Dio Kurazawa, Founding Partner of The Bear Scouts, Stefania Ricci, Director of the Salvatore Ferragamo Museum in Florence, Italy.

Vishal Tolambia, 24, a graduate with an MA in Fashion Futures from the London College of Fashion and in Fashion Design from the National Institute of Fashion Technology India, is a Fashion Sustainability researcher and a multidisciplinary designer.

 In 2021, Vishal founded the organization Humanity-centred designs (HCD) with the aim of transforming "human-centred design into humanity-centred designs through sustainable practices to foster the Fashion Industry." 

In his communication project, the "Fashion Affair" video proposes a speculative view of fashion dating - derived from dating apps - a tool to effectively evaluate brands and their products, in the form of augmented reality. The consumer is not only informed in real time about the brand and supply chain, but the app also becomes a platform for matching products based on individual sustainability goals and commitments. 

"Fashion Affair" also won the special social media contest open to the public among the finalists selected by the jury for being the most voted project by Instagram followers on C.L.A.S.S.'s profile.

Vishal ranked first among the finalists selected by the international jury which composed of:

- Anna Detheridge, Founder and President, Connecting Cultures

- Giusy Bettoni, CEO and Founder, C.L.A.S.S.

- Rita Airaghi, Director, Gianfranco Ferré Research Center

- Paola Arosio, Head of New Brands & Sustainability Projects, Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana (The National Chamber for Italian Fashion)

- Jeanine Ballone, Managing Director, Fashion 4 Development

- Evie Evangelou, Founder and President, Fashion 4 Development

- Chiara Luisi, Sustainability Projects Coordinator, Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana (The National Chamber for Italian Fashion)

- Sara Kozlowski, Director of Education and Sustainable Strategies, Council of Fashion Designers of America

- Dio Kurazawa, Founding Partner, The Bear Scouts

- Renata Molho, journalist and fashion writer, former editor-in-chief of L'Uomo Vogue and editor-at-large of L'Uomo Vogue, Vogue Italia, Casa Vogue

- Stefania Ricci, Director, Salvatore Ferragamo Museum.

"Vishal's project resonated with us for its impactful vision where we will be able to immerse ourselves with real time information and insight,” said Giusy Bettoni and Anna Detheridge. “Vishal highlights how the industry lacks transparency and how technology can be a driving force in transforming how we interact with brands. Vishal's video and project used augmented reality in an innovative and ethical way."

Vishal Tolambia won the €3,000 prize made possible thanks to the support of Main Sponsors ROICA™ by Asahi Kasei and Bemberg™ by Asahi Kasei and the other project sponsors: SUPREME GREEN COTTON® by Varvaressos and ECOSENSOR™ by Asahi Kasei.

The ambassadors of the award are Iris Skrami, CEO and co-founder of Renoon and Valentina Suarez co-founder and general manager of the Latin American sustainable fashion movement Universo MOLA.

Six-part Planted Unearthed talk series available to view via YouTube

Key highlights at the Planted flagship launch event staged during London Design Festival from September 23-26 was a six-part Planted Unearthed talk series hosted by the fair’s biophilic design ambassador Oliver Heath and co-founder Sam Peters.

One of the speakers at Planted.  Backdrop shows its wildflower meadow tv studio installation.

Now the talks series will be available to view via their YouTube channel on successive weekends, starting this Sunday October 10th at 7 pm. 

The talks, which took place at King’s Cross Granary Square were headlined on “delivering greener cities in a post-pandemic world.”

The first talk, What is biophilic design?, is hosted by Oliver Heath, and with guest panelists Dr Alia Fadel (Leeds Becket University), Roddy Langmuir (Cullinan Studio) and Vanessa Champion (Journal of Biophilic Design).

Planted speaker Sam McCarthy on
Biophilic Design.

In association with Thread Films, other topics covered included Why Rewild?, and Toxic Cities that explored themes around designing cleaner, greener, healthier urban spaces built with nature in mind. 

Planted brought together some of the leading thinkers in design, sustainability, food production, architecture and nature. 

The list of panelists included the National Trust’s Patrick Begg, as well as Julia Davies of We have the Power Julia Davies and Mark Shayler of Ape. 

Here’s the full schedule: 

10 Oct 2021 What is Biophilic design?

17 Oct 2021 Why Rewild?

24 Oct 2021 Toxic Cities

31 Oct 2021 Can Food Save the World?

07 Nov 2021 The Age of Waste

14 Nov 2021 Making Material Matter

Photos by Lucia Carpio© for MyFashionConnectGlobal.

Renewable sustainable cellulosic fibre launched for the growing women’s casual wear and loungewear market

This year’s Oscar award ceremony, delayed due to Covid-19 restrictions and held chiefly at Union Station in Los Angeles may have been very different from what we used to see but the event may have given us a glimpse of what it would be like if we were to dress up again.

But in the meantime, casual clothes are the order of the day, as many consumers are in demand for comfortable, sustainable clothing that make more sense today during these challenging times when we are working from home most of the time.

Now US company Eastman has launched its Naia™ Renew cellulosic staple fibre as a timely answer for the growing women’s casual wear and loungewear market.  

Sourced from 60% wood pulp and 40%  recycled  waste plastics,* it can be produced at scale to deliver sustainability without compromise to the fashion world. 

Naia™  garments in a wooden crate.

Naia™ Renew  staple  fiber  has inherent  softness,  is  quick  drying  and reduces garment pilling, according to Carolina Sister  Cohn,  Eastman’s  global  segment  market  manager  for  fashion.  She also said their fibre blends well with other eco-friendly materials such as lyocell, modal and recycled polyester to produce sustainable fabrics and garments that are ideal for everyday comfort wear—whether it’s a busy day on the go or a cozy night on the couch. It is a versatile fibre perfect for T-shirts, comfy pants, jumpsuits and dresses.  

Carolina Sister  Cohn,  Eastman’s 
global  segment  market  manager  for  fashion.

“With more consumers seeking all-day comfort and style, the need for sustainable yet soft,  cocooning  clothing  is  higher  than  ever.  Today,  shoppers  looking  for  sustainable options are not willing to compromise on style nor on quality or durability,” said Cohn.  “Naia™  Renew staple fibre offers sustainable comfort every day, everywhere.” 

Fully  circular,  Naia™  Renew  staple  fibre  is  produced  with  a  low  carbon  footprint  in  a closed-loop process where solvents are safely recycled back into the system for reuse. 

The fibre is produced from wood pulp sourced from certified forests, and the recycled plastics  feedstock  is  generated  via  Eastman's  patented  carbon  renewal  technology (CRT), a  integrated  molecular  recycling  technology  that  breaks  down  waste plastics, such as post-consumer carpet fibre and plastic packaging materials, into basic molecular building blocks for the manufacture of new products including fibers — a truly circular solution creating value from waste.    

Photos courtesy of Eastman-Naia™ 

MY WARDROBE HQ X BELSTAFF introduce first ever luxury menswear rental

The UK’s first luxury rental and re-sale platform MY WARDROBE HQ and iconic British brand Belstaff are embracing the future of fashion together by introducing the market’s first luxury rental offering for men. 

Belstaff Ambassador, British actor James Norton

MYWARDROBE HQ X BELSTAFF launch the menswear rental and resale with a panel discussion on sustainability, during London Fashion Week's digital show that opened on Febraury 19th. Chaired by Jane Shepherdson CBE, guests on the panel include British Fashion Council Chair and Editor in Chief Dylan Jones OBE, Belstaff Ambassador, British actor James Norton, Photographer and Founder of WhatWeSee Misan Harriman and Sustainability Advocate Wilson Oryema.

Belstaff waxed-cotton jacket.

Since launching in 2019, MY WARDROBE HQ has become a leading destination for renting and buying contemporary and luxury womenswear fashion, to which they added the first ever childrenswear offering in Sept 2020. Launched with the aim of encouraging customers to support the fashion industry by looking at new ways to shop, it champions conscious consumption. They believe fashion rental is the solution to consuming fashion in a sustainable way, and are the market’s only truly circular offering as each item can also be purchased outright, should a customer fall in love with it.

The partnership with Belstaff is symbolic of how fashion is changing. The two brands will together cater to both a millennial customerwith their mindset of ‘no ownership’, purchasing and sharing clothing in an exploration of fashion and ‘greener’ shopping’ - and also to those wishing to invest in key wardrobe items that last forever.

Fran Millar, CEO Belstaff, commented “Belstaff has been producing clothes for close to a century and we are pleased to be offering a new customer the opportunity to rent before they buy. Whilst our Icons range is rooted in history, the fits have been modernised to offer a contemporary addition to any wardrobe. MY WARDROBE HQ offers a unique service with sustainable fashion at its core, which works with our built for life design philosophy. We look forward to our continued partnership with My Wardrobe HQ, promoting a circular fashion economy.”

Jane Shepherdson, Chair MY WARDROBE HQ, says ‘Rental is going from strength to strength in the womenswear market, and menswear is an obvious next step- in fact 30% of our existing database are men so we know that the demand is there.

Belstaff were our first choice of launch partner, as we wanted to offer something that is very different to the traditional ‘event’ dressing that the men’s rental market is known for. We couldn’t be prouder of this partnership with Belstaff a brand that is synonymous with long-lasting quality and expert craftsmanship."

Belstaff will offer its men’s Icons range to a new generation through the rental platform- it reflects the brand’s long-held built for life design philosophy, offering bestselling styles that have stood the test of time. Stand out pieces include the iconic waxed cotton Trialmaster, a four-pocket field jacket that was quickly adopted by the moto community when it launched in 1948, and aditional waxed cotton styles like the shorter Racemaster, and the café racer styled Kelland. Belstaff’s 6oz waxed cotton is both wind and water resistant, produced sustainably by the British Millerain, a mill operating in the north of England since the late 19th century.

Leather styles will also be offered, including the Trialmaster Panther- a hand-waxed, water-resistant leather variant of the iconic field jacket, with each jacket, thanks to its hand-finishing, developing a unique patina over time so that no two are alike- and the V Racer, a minimalistic café racer style from the 1960s; plus the Gangster, originally introduced in 1969, a shorter field jacket style with an adjustable fit.

An women’s selection is available too, including the Trialmaster in waxed cotton, the Marianne, a classic biker style leather, and the Mollison – a café racer style with clean lines and moto-inspired quilting on the shoulders.

Indian designer goes for smart fibres from Japanese yarn maker for Lakmé Fashion Week 2020

Indian fashion is known to use glamorous and luxurious fabrics. So for Lakmé Fashion Week 2020, the fashion event in India which like most other global events had turned digital for its October show  this year, India’s home grown designer Hemang Agrawal teamed up with Bemberg™ by Asahi Kasei, the Japanese yarn manufacturer leading in both high-performative innovation and sustainability for his new collection, blending crafts and technology, matching Indian tradition with Japanese innovation, combining sustainability with high-end style. 

The Bemberg X Hemang Agrawal collaboration sheds light on the work of artisans while marrying technology for the Benares-based label. “We hope this collaboration will give the craftsman a chance to work with Bemberg, a sustainable cellulose fibre made with sophisticated Japanese technology and develop high-value products that will increase demand for their skills on national and international levels,” said Mr. Hideto Tanimoto, General Manager, Bemberg.

The “Tattva” collection comprising 40 pieces for men and women took inspiration from the Indian mantra of Sarva-Mangalam, which connotes tranquility between the 12 elements of the universe, as per Indian scriptures and tradition. A similar concept in Japanese philosophy is known as Godai.

Motifs representing these elements, including quirky versions of moon-phases, tigers, human mind & DaVinci’s Vitruvian man were woven into the glittering fabrics. The collection was crafted harnessing the skills of Indian handlooms artisans in the designer’s hometown Benares (Varanasi).

Made from the smart-tech transformation of cotton linters pre-consumer materials and converted through a traceable and transparent closed loop process, Bemberg™ fibres add responsible values to the collection.  

The predominant textile used are Bemberg™ brocades along with plain Bemberg™ fabrics and a few blended textiles. The fabrics are distinctively smooth like silk, second skin-like, shining, and bright. 

“We are so happy that we participated in LFW and collaborated with Hemang Agrawal.” Says Mr. Hideto Tanimoto, General Manager, Bemberg™  Sales and Marketing Department. “The collection has come out really wonderful and has brought out the properties of Bemberg yarn such as noble sheen, smooth and soft touch, bright colour, supple drape amazingly. I strongly believe that the collection made significant impact on the sustainable fashion scene in India. We are expecting that the collection will be  successful commercially and will help the local craftsman from Varanasi.”

Designer Hemang Agrawal says, “The dexterity which the weavers in Benares have acquired, finds few parallels in the world. Although predominantly a silk-weaving centre, many master-weavers in the city are highly skilful in handling different yarn types. Japan, on the other hand, is well-known for its advanced technologies as well as its approach towards environment and sustainability as a country. Both these facts are well-reflected in the Bemberg™ Yarn”.

Photos from GB Network/gbnetwork.eu

New Non-GM cotton seed breeding project to protect soverignty and bio-diversity on the 50th anniversary of Earth Day

To mark the 50th anniversary of Earth Day, the Fairtrade Foundation has announced today that it has launched a three-year programme in India to grow non-GMO cotton seeds, benefitting the environment, farmer’s health and command a higher price.

Nearly two thirds of all cotton grown worldwide is now GM (genetically modified), which means that it is difficult for farmers to have access to non-GM seed varieties, which must be used to grow Fairtrade and organic cotton.

Fairtrade is working in partnership with Pratibha Syntex, a sustainability-oriented, vertically-integrated manufacturer of knitted textile to pioneer the seeds, and the project is funded by TRAID, a UK charity working to tackle and solve the problems caused by producing, consuming and wasting clothes.

The objective is to develop new non-GM hybrids that have the exact cotton fibre parameters that the fashion and textile industry needs. The resulting seeds will be commercially produced and made available to farmers, allowing them to have more choice over how they farm.  

The breeding programme is led by a professional seed breeder and has already produced some strong results following the initial pilot phase, when around 1,500 cotton farmers were given access to 9,200 organic seed packets produced by their own co-operative. The second phase of the project will see the development of new parent lines.   Several seasons on and the farmers have produced their own packaged seeds for sale which have been developed with input from the project’s ‘star’ members who have trialled the seeds on their farms.

The seeds are sold for Rs600 a packet; the equivalent packet of GM seeds costs Rs730, 30% cheaper and has led to a 25% reduction in overall costs for farmers. The seeds have been bred to be pest resistant, drought tolerant and to grow plants that will be easy to harvest.  

Subindu Garkhel, Senior Cotton and Textiles Lead at the Fairtrade Foundation said: “Our relationship with the Earth and the environment needs to be one of respect, as nature had always intended it to be. Without that, we cannot expect to have healthy soil and waterbodies. It is also important to future proof organic and Fairtrade cotton farmers, especially in these difficult times.

“Having access to non-GM seeds will bring all the environmental and health benefits of growing organic cotton, plus a higher price, as the farmers can access the high-value Fairtrade markets with their cotton. By avoiding toxic pesticides, farmers avoid health problems and deaths common in non-organic cotton production. It also reduces their production costs.”

GM seeds that are available to farmers are bred for high-input agriculture which means farmers need to use expensive synthetic fertilisers, pesticides and irrigation. In India alone there is a 95% monopoly on the seed market, making it almost impossible for small-scale farmer who want to cultivate Fairtrade or organic cotton to source non-GM seeds.

Maria Chenoweth, TRAID's Chief Executive said, "We are very proud to support the work of the Fairtrade Foundation to enable Indian cotton farmers to grow organic. Increasing organic cotton production makes a significant contribution to reducing the environmental impact of the fashion industry, while reducing the use of hazardous pesticides. In the not too distant future, we hope every day will be Earth Day." 

Fairtrade is a member of the Climate Coalition, and is working alongside other organizations to protect the people, places and life we love.

Luxury Sector becoming less opaque

Christian Dior: Designer of Dreams at the Victoria & Albert Museum, London until 

1 September 2019.
  Designs by current Dior creative director Maria Grazia Chiuri .

Photo by Lucia Carpio.

Luxury brands Gucci and Bottega Veneta are the highest scoring luxury brands reviewed  by Fashion Revolution’s Fashion Transparency Index 2019 to have made the 31-40% range of scores, and have achieved 100% on policy and commitments and governance. Chanel’s score increased by 7%, Sandro and s. Oliver by 9% and Christian Dior by almost 22%, demonstrating that for the first time ever, several major fashion brands are beginning to disclose supply chain information. Chanel also published its first ever Report to Society and s. Oliver launched a responsibility section on its website for the first time.

Only five brands (2.5% of the brands reviewed) scored zero this year, compared with nine brands (6%) last year. These are Eli Tahari, Jessica Simpson, Mexx, Tom Ford and Chinese menswear brand Youngor.  Another 10 brands are disclosing almost nothing (less than 2%), including Longchamp, Max Mara, New Yorker and several others.

“There is still a lot of work to be done”, Sarah Ditty, Policy Director and report author, cautioned, “detailed information about the outcomes and impacts of their efforts is still lacking. The average score among the biggest fashion brands and retailers is just 21%, showing that there are still far too many big brands lagging behind. Major brands are disclosing very little information and data about their purchasing practices, which means that we still don’t have visibility into what brands are doing to be responsible business partners to their suppliers.”

Fashion Revolution believes that the major fashion brands have the moral imperative and ability to effect change on a global scale for large numbers of people. Brands will also need to innovate, use fewer resources and help their customers consume less, take better care of their clothes and use them for longer if we are to tackle the climate crisis..

"To help drive this change, each year we explore a few key issues in deeper detail. This year we have  chosen 4 out of the 17 Sustainable Development Goals that are particularly relevant and urgent for the global fashion industry to achieve by 2030 as this year’s Spotlight Issues:  SDG5: Gender Equality, SDG 8: Decent Work, SDG 12: Sustainable Consumption and Production and SDG 13: Climate Action.

Sarah Ditty concluded: “We will continue to use the Index to measure brands’ progress and help push them harder and faster towards taking on more responsibility for their policies, practices and impacts.”

Sportswear and Outdoor brands championing transparency

According to the Ellen MacArthur Foundation, a charity launched to accelerate the transition to a circular economy, the apparel industry is one of the culprits in causing our environmental and pollution problems, as globally a mind-boggling 73% of materials used for clothing are being sent to landfill or incinerated every year, with less than 1% being recycled to make new clothing.

Designs by Christopher Raeburn at the Jackets Required London trade show in January 2019.
The designer , a pioneer in recycling and upcycling, set up RÆBURN, a collaborative, creative fashion studio where daily design meets painstaking production, alongside monthly events, discussions and workshops.
Photo by Lucia Carpio.

Thus it is welcomed news that Fashion Revolution’s Fashion Transparency Index 2019 reveals today that three sportswear and outdoor brands are leading the way on transparency among the world’s 200 largest fashion brands and retailers by disclosing a wide range of human rights policies, commitments and outcomes, as well as who their suppliers are.

Adidas, Reebok and Patagonia each score a total 64% out of 250 possible points, followed by Esprit and H&M in the 61-70%. C&A, ASOS, Puma, Nike, Converse, Jordan, The North Face, Timberland, Wrangler, Vans and Marks & Spencer rank at the top end of the 51-60% range.

This is the first year since the Fashion Transparency Index’s inception that brands will score over 60%, showing that progressive brands are now taking real, tangible steps to disclose more about their social and environmental policies, practices and impacts.

However no brands score above the 70% range showing that there is still a long way to go towards transparency amongst all major fashion brands.

Since 2016, Fashion Revolution has tracked global brands and benchmarked their performance against five key areas: policy and commitments, governance, traceability, supplier assessment and remediation, and spotlight issues, which this year focus on the Sustainable Development Goals.

Sarah Ditty, Policy Director and report author says: “The progress we are seeing this year, coupled with the feedback Fashion Revolution has received from brands, suggests that inclusion in the Fashion Transparency Index has motivated major fashion brands to be more transparent. We are seeing many brands publishing their supplier lists and improving their scores year on year.”

Amongst the 98 brands reviewed in 2017, 2018 and again in 2019 there has been an 8.9% increase in the average score since they were first included in the Index.

11 brands have increased their scores by over 10% this year, showing significant efforts to be more transparent, and data shows that more brands are embarking on their journey towards greater transparency.

The report shows the following findings:

·         Brands are disclosing very little about their efforts to empower women and girls and achieve gender equality, despite the fact that women make up the majority of the workforce in the fashion industry from factory to shop floor.

·         Some progress has been made on disclosing equal pay policies and the gender pay gap by major fashion brands, but little is published about how brands are addressing gender-based labour violations in garment factories.

·         55% out of the 200 brands are publishing the annual carbon footprint in the company's own sites, although only 19.5% disclose carbon emissions in the supply chain – where over 50% of the industry’s emissions occur.

·         Given that major brands are expecting trust and transparency from suppliers, they too should share more information publicly about their own commitments and efforts to be responsible business partners. Only 9% of brands disclose a formal process for gathering supplier feedback on the company's purchasing practices and just 6.5% of brands publish a policy of paying their suppliers within 60 days. 

The highest scoring brands in the Spotlight Issues section this year are H&M, Adidas and Reebok, Patagonia as well as Bershka, Massimo Dutti, Pull&Bear, Stradivarius and Zara (all owned by Inditex), ASOS and C&A, respectively.

Sustainability is today a buzzword in the global apparel industry; Fashion Revolution Week 2019 (22-28 April)

News that more and more global fashion brands and retailers are striving to tackle sustainability continue to emerge as we enter Fashion Revolution Week 2019 (22-28 April) which promotes greater transparency in the fashion supply chain.

London-based eco-footwear brand
Po-Zu  uses sustainable materials.
On Monday 29th April, Po-Zu founder, 
Sven Segal  will be speaking on the 
Nature Of Fashion panel, one of many events 
organised by Know The Origin for their 
Fashion Revolution 2019 pop-up shop. 
Photo by Lucia Carpio.

For one, US-based jeans brand Wrangler, owned by the VF Corp, has launched a new Made-in-USA denim collection that supports five US cotton-growing states – and takes the brand towards 100% sustainable cotton adoption by 2025.

Elsewhere, US retailer Walmart is teaming up with international bank HSBC to roll out a sustainable supply chain finance programme that pegs a supplier's financing rate to its sustainability performance.   Under the new scheme, suppliers that demonstrate progress on Walmart's Gigaton or Sustainability Index Program can apply for improved financing from HSBC based on their sustainability ratings.

Meanwhile German sportswear giant Adidas has launched a 100% recyclable performance running shoe called the Futurecraft.Loop, which is made without glue and from materials that can be broken down and reused to create a brand new running shoe.

And a company that produces sustainable textile fibres made from waste materials has raised EUR3.7m (US$4.2m) in funding from investors, including global fashion retailer H&M, to scale up production at its plant in Finland.

New sustainable and functional fabric options on offer at Intertextile Apparel

Comprehensive product zones including one entitled All About Sustainability which will feature Chinese and European exhibitors are deemed to be must-see destinations at the upcoming Intertextile Shanghai Apparel Fabrics Spring Edition trade fair, March 12 - 14.

The Forum Space at last year’s All About Sustainability Zone proved popular, say organisers at Messe Frankfurt Hong Kong, noting that the zone is ideal for visitors sourcing eco-friendly textile products to gain insight on new sustainable business approaches.   Photo: Messe Frankfurt Hong Kong.             

Exhibitors at the All About Sustainability zone will include Foshan Chicley Textile’s sustainable fashion fabrics – a range of organic linen and cotton, Lenzing ECOVERO, Modal and TENCEL, as well as digital printed fabrics.  While the new OEKO-TEX®100 Standard regulations have been published for 2019 according to organisers at Messe Frankfurt Hong Kong, the All About Sustainability zone also houses exhibitors who provide testing and certification services.

With the added element of the fringe programme, which will include seminars held by exhibitors, the fair offers visitors opportunities to learn more about the latest industry opinions and regulations.

Hohenstein Textile Testing and TESTEX both offer Standard 100, STeP, Eco Passport, Detox to Zero and Leather Standard by OEKO-TEX® testing amongst other services, and both of these exhibitors will also host a seminar.  Hohenstein Textile Testing will explain the amended OEKO-TEX® regulations, while TESTEX will discuss how these new regulations help to build trust with today’s consumers. Other exhibitors offering testing services include Intertex Testing Services, SGS-CSTC Standards Technical Services and TUV Rheinland.

“Shanghai is a great city for a business with original prints, and Intertextile is one of our busiest fairs. It’s a good place to find new clients,” explained Ms Jane Han Zhang, Founder & Creative Director of British design studio Fairbairn & Wolf Studio.  Jane and her partners are alumni of the London-based TexSelect (formerly Texprint) which promotes and nurtures British-trained fashion and design graduates through its annual competition that has won international acclaim.

Messe Frankfurt has reported that over 3,000 exhibitors from more than 20 countries & regions will join this year’s Spring Edition of Intertextile Shanghai Apparel Fabrics from 12 – 14 March, spanning a huge range of textile product categories, from fashion to technical innovation. 

Comprehensive product zones will reflect demand for different products such as sustainable solutions, functional fabrics, digital printing, accessories and denim.

Spanning six halls at the National Exhibition and Convention Centre (Shanghai) this year, the fair will be held concurrently with Intertextile Shanghai Home Textiles, Yarn Expo Spring, PH Value and CHIC.

Consumers’ increasing awareness of sustainability, ethical fashion and sharing economy

Some of the industry's visionaries on sustainability, ethical fashion and fair trade joined up to discuss Sourcing and Design and the Next Chapter on Fashion and Sustainability at Bloomsbury Gallery in London on September 4th  while ethical footwear brand Po-Zu’s launched their new SS19 and AW18 collections.

Photo from Pu-Zu. 

The discussions highlighted consumers’ increasing awareness of the harmful consequences of their purchasing decisions, and the growing shift towards vegan fashion that is not just cruelty-free but also plastic-free and environmentally-friendly. 

Sven Segal, Founder and CEO of Po-Zu said: "Everything starts with awareness. Most people are completely unaware of the issues with the footwear and the fashion industry.  My speciality is shoes and I can tell you there are tonnes of really nasty chemicals put into ordinary shoes. There ought to be a list of ingredients if you buy online on the product page much like with food."

On the next chapter for the industry, Safia Minney, MBE, Founder of People Tree and Managing Director of Po-Zu commented: "I see the work of the pioneers informing the agenda. The problem with ethical fashion and footwear brands is that we have to run so fast and compete on an unlevel playing field because we are competing with sweatshop fashion and fashion that is highly polluting and exploitative."

Caryn Franklin MBE, British fashion commentator, Professor of Diversity in Fashion and former Fashion Editor and Co-Editor of i-D Magazine: "It is a case of joining up the dots. If we are looking to be empowered and emboldened by our choices and to feel that to a certain extent we have embodied cognition: that we are feeling good about what we are wearing so therefore we have confidence and self-belief..."

Caryn continued: "If you know that something has been made by somebody in despair, then it has absolutely nothing to contribute to  life and your experience of yourself, because that information, you can't un-know."

On the vegan revolution, the plant-based economy and cruelty-free fashion, Bel Jacobs, freelance fashion journalist and former Style Editor at the Metro said: "The very fact of the matter is that sentient beings are suffering."

Bel added, on the next steps for the industry "I think social media is putting forward stories about what is going on behind the factory walls in a more efficient and devastating way than ever before and I think consumers are going to react to that."

Tamsin Lejeune, CEO of Common Objective and Founder of the Ethical Fashion Forum remarked: "The entire fashion and economic system is dysfunctional. We need tax breaks for ethical fashion pioneers to level the playing field, so they can compete."

Last but not least, on the sharing economy, Zoe Partridge, Founder of wardrobe rental concept, Wear the Walk said "It is about changing people's mindsets and how they consume."

Bottletop London store marries industrial design with contemporary art

The interiors of British ethical fashion brand, Bottletop’s store at 84 Regent Street, London is a unique project that showcases recycling to the hilt, marrying industrial design with contemporary art, just like its desirable range of bags and accessories.

The Bottletop store is claimed to be the “world’s first zero-waste retail space”
and is a “synthesis between the hand-made and the most high-tech.” 

Projected through its unique environment of a retail concept that speaks to the heart of its values, collection, story and core materials – raw metal and certified Amazon zero deforestation leather, visitors to the Bottletop store are able to experience the sustainable concept of materials while shopping the collections and learning about the mission of the brand.

Bottletop co-founders Cameron Saul and Oliver Wayman’s vision was realised by working with London architects Krause Architects and Ai Build, with the use of 3D print to decorate the store’s wall using upcycled plastic bottles gathered from the streets of Delhi in India, as well as some 2,700 cans individually treated and suspended overhead  to form a metal canopy embedded in to a 3D printed lattice structure, which is a play on the concept of negative space, inspired by the British contemporary artist Rachel Whiteread.

Even the shelving has been wrapped in certified zero deforestation leather from Sao Matheus Farm in Alto Floresta, while consoles were wrapped in re-purposed sheet aluminium.  the space is completed by flooring made from upcycled rubber tyres, a bespoke in-store scent from perfumer Timothy Han, and a series of bespoke playlists from record producer Mario C, the name behind Beastie Boys and Bjork recordings.

Photos © Lucia Carpio

SEAQUAL ™ - The fibre created from marine plastic waste

While products made of plastics have penetrated all areas of our lives, from toys to household and kitchen items to packaging and many, many more, today sadly, much of plastics are also found discarded in the sea or washed up on shores and beaches, and plastic pollution affects marine life, eco systems and even our health. 

While recent research reveals that plastic at sea turns into toxic fish food and harm marine life and the environment, plastics floating in the oceanic accumulation zones, known as ‘garbage patches’, carry chemical pollutants whose levels seem high enough to pose a health risk to organisms that ingest them.  It is also estimated that 8 million tonnes a year of detritus end up as sea sludge, 80% of which sinks to the bottom.

Recognising that urgent action is required quickly to tackle marine plastics pollution, a Spanish company of textile fibres has recently unveiled its commitments to initiate a new eco-friendly yarns called SEAQUAL ™ filament yarn made out of plastic waste retrieved from the ocean.

From plastic waste to filament yarns.
Photo © Lucia Carpio 2018

Seaqual 4U’s ingenious plan is to dredge then upcycle plastics from the bottom of the sea and turn them into fibres and yarns.  The company partners with some 400 fishing boats off Spanish coasts that help it to collect the plastic waste.

The company has thus set up a virtuous chain involving various stakeholders in the textile industry including spinners, weavers and brands.

To read in full, click HERE.

Aldi launches Fairtrade certified cotton T-shirts this March

 Aldi’s range of Fairtrade Cotton T-Shirts will be available in stores
from 3rd March, as part of the Ladies and Men’s Spring Fashion range. 

Discount store chain Aldi is offering a new range of Fairtrade certified cotton T-shirts in stores across the UK from 3 March 2016, while announcing its continuous commitment to sustainable sourcing

The new cotton range builds on existing Fairtrade commitments made by Aldi in 2011 to convert a range of bananas, coffee, tea, flowers and chocolate to Fairtrade in a programme that quickly rolled out to other Fairtrade markets such as Germany, the Netherlands and Switzerland.

Aldi PA India factory.

Jonathan Neale, Joint Managing Director for Corporate Buying at Aldi, comments:
“We’re proud to offer clothing that supports the Fairtrade project, which brings life changing development to communities by improving working and living conditions, education and health care.”

The Fairtrade Cotton Briefing provides a detailed overview of the cotton industry and its challenges, and explores why Fairtrade is needed and what it can achieve.

Aldi Photo. Agrocel, India ©Peter Caton

Cotton is grown in more than 100 countries, and plays a major role in the economic and social welfare of developing and newly industrialised countries. However, despite supplying the raw commodity that the multi-billion-dollar global clothing and textile industries depend on, growing cotton is failing to provide millions of poor rural households in developing countries with a sustainable and profitable livelihood. With high levels of illiteracy and limited land holdings, many cotton farmers live below the poverty line and are dependent on the middle men or ginners who buy their cotton, often at prices below the cost of production.

By offering Fairtrade cotton products, businesses contribute to a more sustainable future for cotton farmers, their communities and the environment.  Members of Agrocel hope to invest their Fairtrade Premium from Fairtrade sales in funding higher education for farmers’ children, upskilling women in local craft businesses and building a water, pesticide and carbon footprint database of individual farmers and using technology to share with brands.

Fairtrade Standards provide a framework for cotton farmers to form democratic organisations or strengthen existing organisations. This enables farmers to increase their negotiating power in the marketplace, improve business systems, access new markets, develop long-term trading partnerships and implement sustainable farming practices. Fairtrade Minimum Prices contribute to financial stability, while Fairtrade Premium can be invested in improving cotton quality and productivity, climate change adaptation and improving community welfare.