Season's Greetings -

Carol singers welcome visitors from near and afar to London's Trafalgar Square 

in front of the fully-lit Christmas tree, which is a gift from Norway.  Each year since 1947, the city of Oslo gift a Christmas Tree to the people of Britain to thank them for their support during the Second World War.  

This year’s tree,  felled in an Oslo forest in November, is an 85-year-old Norwegian spruce, standing around 24 meters (79ft) tall.  It was reportedly felled in an Oslo forest in November, having been selected by the forest managers of Oslomarka (the Oslo city forest that surrounds the Norwegian capital).  And after a special ceremony attended by a representative of the Lord Mayor of Westminster, the Mayor of Oslo and the British Ambassador to Norway,  the chosen tree, known as the “Queen of the Forest”,  then travels to the U.K. by sea, then transported to central London where, a team of specialists erects the tree with the help of a hydraulic crane.

The Christmas Tree is displayed for all to admire 

from the beginning of December until 6 January 2020.

Photo © Lucia Carpio 2019

BLOSSOM PREMIÈRE VISION had much to offer, though attendance hamperd by national strikes

It was a bit like organising the Christmas lunch.  A lot of hard work went into the preparation and all the ingredients were in place to ensure the success of the event, hoping that people would show up to enjoy all the fruits of lovelies laid out for all.  But somehow there were some unwelcome spoilers that made the occasion  challenging.

Organisers of the Blossom Premiere Vision show in Paris, which was held December 11 and 12 at the Carreau du Temple, had put all their strengths into showcasing the spring-summer 21 pre-collections of luxury materials from 120 luxury and high-end brands, 3.5% more than last year’s, but attendance dropped by some 20% compared to the December 2018 show, due to nationwide strikes in France.  Transport strikes and disrupted road, rail and air traffic prompted some of the show's pre-registered French and international visitors to postpone or curtail their visits.  

Nevertheless this December edition had followed several previous highly-successful editions marked by notably strong growth (+20% between December 2017 and 2018; +3.5% between July 2018 and 2019).

In total exhibiting this December were 82 weavers, 28 tanners and 8 makers of accessories and components.  A new Smart Creation conference dedicated to responsible fashion was reportedly successful, as it focused on consumer expectations in terms of sustainable fashion, and for the first time, a concrete decoding of the latest eco-responsible materials and highlights for each market were presented.

Visitorship was of extremely high-quality, despite a decline from the 1,100 attendees at the December 2018 event, said the organisers of Blossom Première Vision which welcomed 827 visitors, primarily from France (84% of visitors), Italy (9%), UK, Belgium, the Netherlands and Germany, on the hunt for exclusivities and high-end creativity to design and develop their spring-summer 21 pre-collections.

The lightness of summer gives weavers and tanners the opportunity to explore new combinations: added fluidity, fine knits, yarn blends, plays on transparency. Leathers are simpler and finer. Airy fabrics reveal subtle densities and handles.

Highlighted materials included vibrant light surfaces along with subtle radiance embellishment. From textile accessories to silkies, compositions create shines that are sometimes discreet, sometimes as palpable as plastic. Metallics are slipped into leathers. There were plays on transparency and cut-yarn motifs enlivening powdery, pearly fabrics.

The next Blossom Premiere Vision will feature the Autumn Winter 2022 season, and will take place July 1 & 2 2020 CARREAU DU TEMPLE, Paris.

Photos @Alex Gallosi / Blossom Premiere Vision

Sustainability the key message at Denim Premiere Vision in London in December

It’s no longer regarded as a novel idea or a trend, but a must-take path for textile and material companies to embrace sustainability and there is no exception for denim, traditionally seen as one of the most un-eco-friendly materials.  

Thus it was not a coincident that sustainability was the main message from many exhibitors at the 2nd London edition of Denim Première Vision, held December 3 – 4 2019, where the fair focused on creativity and eco-responsible denim collections as the headline project for the Spring-Summer 2021 season.

Showcased at the fair, held in Printworks in Canada Water, south London, was a selection of sustainable developments in terms of sourcing, production processes and finishings.  These were highlighted in a focus area named Habitat 21, created in collaboration with Italian designer Kristian Guerra with installation designed by Filippo Maria Bianchi.

Displayed fabrics were from a selection of exhibitors selected by PV’s own Smart Creation team.  Exhibitors in this area included Advance Denim, Berto, Bossa, Calik Denim, Kilim Denim, Naveena Denim Mill, Orta Anadolu, Panama Trimmings, Properity Textile, Rajby Industries, Raymond Uco Denim, Soorty, and Tavex-Evlox.


According to the organisers’ fashion team, the SS 2021 denim fashion trends presented by Manon Mangin, focus on the key words of the season: Earth, Water, Work, Mobility and Fantasy.

Earth and Water refers to environmental links with nature with renewable materials such as linen and hemp, with pared down surfaces and clean refined elegant dimension, and denim inspired by ecological aspects with soft handles mixing organic with soy fibre.
Work denotes the raw appearance of visually more compact denims for apparel with structured silhouettes, surfaces with light reflection and dyed with shine.
While Mobility is  lifestyle-led focusing on fabrics with abstract movement, with smooth suppleness, fine substances with density while Fantasy is a colour story with dyed fabrics, soft contrasting patterning, tone on tone brights for offbeat silhouettes.

Emulating qualities from nature was a popular direction from many exhibitors.  New developments from a number of exhibitors combine refined elegant textures with irregular surfaces and non-uniformity as the norm, in blends of linen and hemp, organic, biopolymers and alternative along with organic and recycled cotton and soy protein fibre, along with traceable supply chains with conscious applications to manage waste and energy efficiently under social and ethical initiatives.

The eco-ethics transcend to accessories as well, including Lyocell zips, responsible galvanised rivets and buttons, and organic cotton trimmings and labels.

Spanish denim maker Evlox drove its message of total sustainable denim fabrics with natural inky hues and textures and patterns inspired by waves and sky.  The company prides itself on authentic sustainable fabrics linking cutting-edge technology with reliable suppliers.  In addition to utilising recycled materials, they use a dyeing technolgy that reduces water consumption, and sustainable finishing and better performance through laser finishes. Their bionim high-tech denim is boosted to stay cool, dry and comfortable to wear with a polyester layer fibre with water repellency and high tenacity.

PG Denim of Italy celebrated main innovations in 100% sustainable denim with a fashion twist thanks to the tireless research by CEO and project Founder Paolo Gnutti, who has driven the company to a substantial turnover increase by 40% this year, and rapid expansion into the US market through partnerships with more than 20 US brands.  The company’s new WOW Denim SS 2021 collection shows printed materials restyled through colourful techniques drawn from flowers from the historical traditions of Provence and inspired by nature.  There is also a new range of printed velvet denim and velvet stripes using viscose flock achieving different effects using various washing processes.  Another new collection is called Studio 54 inspired by the metallised colours of cars in the 1950s and 60s featuring colour pastes glittering against dark backgrounds and painted effects.


Italian shirting expert Canclini took part in Denim PV for the first time, showcasing a restyled collection Blue 1925 for its new denim range, with blue and indigo as the main colours, and trendy tones using over-dyeing. The goal was to make the fabrics more appealing to the younger generation. Main qualities included linen, hemp and bamboo, regenerated cotton, and recycled fibres.  Effect innovations range from garment to yarn-dyed, shuttle-loom developed as well as jersey, jacquard fil-coupe and printed materials.

Another special event during the London Denim PV was a special workshop: “Learn how to Re-Trace an iconic pair of jeans”, run under the watchful eye of the maestro Alessio Berto from the Tailor Pattern Support in Italy.  

The workshop run on both days of the trade fair focused on the importance of pattern-making allowing participants to have hands-on opportunity to learn how to create patterns based on heritage jeans of three iconic brands: the Levi’s 501, Lee 101Z and Wrangler 11MWZ.

One of the highlights in this December fair was an exhibition of valuable iconic jeans in collaboration with M.O.D.E. – Museum of Denim Elleti in Verona Italy.  It gives visitors insights into the history of denim through a selection of rare original jeans selected from the museum in three areas of exploration that tell the history of the iconic workwear fabric through showcasing the brand identity of the LEE jeans and their transformation, the designing, creating and wearing of WWII influenced clothing and the vital history of the hard-wearing dungarees or overall.

Photos by Content Editor Lucia Carpio (except for the one she is photographed with the pattern-cutting maestro Alessio Berto at the "Re-Trace" workshop during Denim PV London.

The next Denim PV event will take place June 10 & 11 2020, at Superstudio Piu, Milan, Italy.

Classic Blue, the Colour of the year 2020, says PANTONE

Classic Blue will the red-hot colour for 2020, according to the US colour institute  PANTONE, as they reckon that this colour represents a dependable and stable foundation to move forward to a new era.  

Pantone Color of the Year 2020 - Classic Blue Mood board  from Covet House. 
Instilling calm, confidence, and connection, this enduring blue hue highlights our desire for a dependable and stable foundation on which to build as we cross the threshold into a new era. Suggestive of the sky at dusk, the reassuring qualities of the thought-provoking PANTONE 19-4052 Classic Blue highlight our desire for a dependable and stable foundation on which to build as we cross the threshold into a new era.

It is said that Classic Blue brings calmness, confidence and connection, which is probably when the world needs now at a time when many global economies are shrouded in uncertainties and political unrest.
‘We are living in a time that requires trust and faith. It is this kind of constancy and confidence that is expressed by Pantone 19-405 Classic Blue, a solid and dependable blue hue we can always rely on.' said Leatrice Eiseman, Executive Director of the Pantone Color Institute.

Coffee Mug from COPENHAGEN DESIGN, a Danish design company that develops products under the license of PANTONE made for the creative professionals, who already work with the PANTONE colour system and made for those who just loves to see the world more colourful. 
COPENHAGEN DESIGN will exhibit at Top Drawer London Januasry 12 - 14 2020.

As a versatile and popular colour, Blue is widely regarded as soothing as well as strong and regal even, and can easily be paired with a wide range of colours, from pink and red to all spectrum of green and yellow.  

According to Covet House, the different hues of blue, like the colours of the ocean, are the new black, this season. The more mix of blues incorporated in the design, the better, from the navy blue, the denim and colbat blue to the ocean and peacock. The options for the design are endless.

Majority of UK fashion shoppers switch, avoid or boycott brands because of their environmental policies, says consultants at Kantar

Sustainability and social responsibility are of paramount importance 

to today’s modern shoppers.

Brazilian denim specialist VICUNHA TEXTIL has brought in denim guru Adriano Goldschmied (who has established a number of brands including Diesel and Replay) to help develop a denim fabric that saves up to 95% water and up to 90% chemicals in its production. As it is made of recycled pre-consumer denim, additional dyeing is not necessary. The special character of the fabric is down to the indigo of the original material, which is shredded and turned into a new fabric. With its authentic and unique appearance, ABSOLUT ECO offers an innovative alternative to reusing denim waste without the need for further dyeing. Items from the ABSOLUT ECO line are barely washed or not washed at all. They can be used directly for ready-to-wear, without any other chemicals having to be used.  

New consumer research published this week by Kantar, a leading data, insights and consulting firm, reveals that over three-quarters (76%) of UK fashion shoppers have, in the last 12 months, switched, avoided or boycotted buying certain fashion labels, or would consider doing so in the future, based on brands’ environmental policies.

Kantar questioned over 1,200 UK consumers between the ages of 16 and 65+ about their concern over a range of environmental issues, their purchasing decisions based on a brand’s sustainability credentials, environmental responsibility and whether, as a consumer, they had ever decided to boycott buying a product or switch to another brand based on its environmental reputation.

Brand loyalty is lowest among the youngest age group of 16-24 year-olds with 83% saying they have switched or might do so, with more males (22%) switching or boycotting brands than females (16%).

Responses differ considerably among generations too, with over a third (35%) of Millennials saying they have avoided buying, or decided to choose a different brand over the last 12 months, compared to only 8% of Baby Boomers. However almost half (49%) of this generation of 55-65+ year-olds indicated that while they hadn’t switched or boycotted brands in the last year because of their environmental credentials, they might consider doing so in the future – the highest among all age groups.

Harsh working conditions, environmental pollution and the overuse of packaging are some of the issues consumers think carefully about before purchasing clothes.

Much more work needs to be done by the fashion industry when it comes to publicising the positive work it is doing to address the environmental problems resulting from the throw-away, ‘fast fashion’ culture we live in today, say 72% of consumers. This sentiment is high across all regions (>69%) with more shoppers in Greater London (76%) agreeing. Only 13% consider this issue unimportant.

Mark Chamberlain, managing director of Brand, Kantar UK said: “Responsible living is being driven by cross-generational groups of ‘woke’ consumers that look towards inspiring brand heroes as change leaders. Governments and organisations are being forced to listen and respond to consumers’ demands for greater transparency as businesses strive to become more purposeful.”

Almost 90% of respondents surveyed agree that brands need to take more responsibility for the waste they produce and the impact it this has on our environment. This sentiment was high across all age groups (>82%) but highest among those aged 65 and over (92%). Three-quarters of shoppers agree that, due to inaction from many of the world’s governments, they want brands to act as forces for positive change in our society. However, when questioned about their response, over 70% of all consumers agreed that efforts by businesses to protect the environment are ‘too little, too late’, with younger generations of Millennials agreeing most with this statement (78%).

Premiere Vision celebrates 45th anniversary with new book on key fashion creative moments

Along with archive images, portrayals of exceptional craftsmen and designers, INSPIRING FASHION TEXTILE REVOLUTIONS retraces the growing influence and leadership of Première Vision in becoming a pivotal force that put forth material innovation and technological progression in the fashion and creative industries, through its long journey from a humble beginning originally created by an association of just 15 Lyon-based weavers.
The authors are two distinguished industry experts: Editor-in-Chief of lifestyle magazine L’Express Dix, Lydia Bacrie who has been identifying, deciphering, analyzing and setting the trend in fashion for over 15 years; and Charlotte Brunel who was for a long time fashion editor at L’Express Dix (and author of T-shirt published by Assouline in 2001), who has also collaborated with Le Journal du Dimanche and Le Monde.

The Paris-based Première Vision is not only well-known for organising and staging world-class international trade shows and marketplace for the world’s fashion professionals, it is also highly respected as a go-to valuable source for inspiration and known for its influential ability to recognise greatness, nurture creativity and decipher trends.
It is therefore fitting for Première Vision to celebrate its 45^th anniversary and achievements by putting it in writing, with the publication on December 5, 2019 a fine new book entitled Inspiring Fashion Textile Revolutions,  published by La Martinière editions.
Highlighted specifically in the book are chapters to focus on key turning points in the fashion and textile industries over the last four and a half decades, including the emergence of knitwear, the rise of Lurex® or polyamide, the crowning of accessories, the arrival of eco-responsible materials and related garments … key developments that have shaped and changed the world of global fashion, telling the unique story behind the makers and the shakers along the way with Première Vision as it develops its role as a leader in the global fashion industry.

DENIM PREMIÈRE VISION in London, December 3 - 4.

Innovative denim developments on display at Première Vision Paris in September 2019.

Photo by Lucia Carpio.

Following on the success of its first London edition last December, and a Milan edition lauded by fashion professionals and the denim industry last May, Denim Première Vision will be returning for  the second time to the UK capital come 3-4 December.

It will be held in a new venue, Printworks London, a cultural destination in southeast London.

Denim qualities from Portuguese mill Trificolor 

 on show at Premiere Vision Paris in September 2019.

Photo by Lucia Carpio.

Presenting the latest on offer from 97 exhibitors from around the world. the show will focus on Spring-Summer 2021 trends and eco-responsible innovations in materials, the latest technologies and techniques as well as various contemporary denim developments.

Organisers say the fair will be targeting all creative fashion brands that develop denim collections - fashion and luxury brands, pure jeanswear players, web players.  This season’s broadened offer is up by 9% over the 89 exhibitors showing in December 2018.


As an itinerant show, Denim Première Vision aims to ensure a continuity between its various editions. While the show relies on new destinations to help professionals conquer new markets, the goal is also to build lasting relationships between these various players.

Sustainability and Smart Materials are key factors 
at Denim Première Vision in London

Returning to Denim Première Vision this December will be Platform C.L.A.S.S. - the acronym for Creativity Lifestyle And Sustainable Synergy – which will take up a booth to educate, share sustainable innovation and promote smart textiles to professionals in the fashion business.

“In London, we will bring forward its vision and strategy with a set of initiatives, talks and projects,” explains Giusy Bettoni, CEO and founder of C.LA.S.S. and sustainability consultant for the Première Vision in Paris.  Ms Bettoni will curate a programme of #SmartTalks in London with some of the most influential players in the industry.

The programme focuses on the concept of Jeans ReDesign exploring denim becoming smarter with many different expressions, interactions and brand new solutions dedicated to today’s consumers. The series includes The Jeans Redesign Guidelines by Make Fashion Circular; a talk dedicated to the new generation of contemporary fibres and circular economy business models. Other talks focus on the role of the designer as an enzymatic power triggering sustainable change in fashion and the role and the innovative design strategies of brands and retailers bringing together circular economy and a new level of aesthetics, performances and unexpected multiple lifecycles.

C.L.A.S.S. will also bring its Smart Materials Bank featuring some of the most innovative materials on the market to provide an open and inspirational resource and educational tool for designers, students, brands and researchers, allowing them to discover and experiment with a unique selection of sustainable textiles, yarns and fashion components.

This year, Italian denim manufacturer Candiani Denim joins the Smart Materials Bank with its  smart collections, in particular, the ReGen, winner of the 2019 ITMA Sustainable Award.  It is a rigid selvedge fabric composed of 50% Refibra™ fibers and 50% recycled fiber, ReLast, a stretch fabric, composed of organic cotton and the world’s first ROICA™ EF premium stretch yarn made with 58% of pre-consumer recycled content, the ROICA™ EF comes with the Global Recycled Standard - GRS - certification by the influential Textile Exchange. 

“At C.L.A.S.S. we constantly monitor the textile business looking for sustainable and innovative products. Our Smart Materials Bank, the result of such observatory, is open to creatives who can purchase at affordable prices samples and small quantities of sustainable materials up to 50 meters.” Explains Luca Olivini, Eco Hub Material Manager of C.L.A.S.S.

PREMIÈRE VISION, PATRON OF THE EXHIBITION ON THE HISTORY OF SHOES at the MUSÉE DES ARTS DÉCORATIFS OF PARIS

One of the main highlights at the next edition of Première Vision Paris - from February 11 to 13, 2020 at the Parc des Expositions de Paris Nord Villepinte - will be a relay of an exhibition on the history of Shoes currently showing at the Musee des Arts Decoratifs of Paris - through animations and educational installations about the conception and manufacture of shoes, providing a prospective and creative look at these key products that have entered the collections of all the fashion brands.

The exhibition "Marche et Démarche, Une histoire de la chaussure" focuses on the history of shoes and footwear, and is on until 23 February 2020 at the MAD, the Musée des Arts Décoratifs of Paris.

Above, a wide range of creative leather qualities on show at PREMIÈRE VISION LEATHER in Paris, and 

Below, displays of components and accessories at PREMIÈRE VISION ACCESSORIES, 

both events took place at the September 2019 PREMIÈRE VISION Paris show.

Photos by Lucia Carpio.

It is an exhibition of natural echo for Première Vision, which, through its flagship event Première Vision Paris, highlights each season the creative complementarity of the fashion industry’s professions, particularly in its specialized spaces: PREMIÈRE VISION LEATHER, the leather specialist universe which presents a selection of tanners and manufacturers for the leather goods, clothing and footwear markets, and PREMIÈRE VISION ACCESSORIES, which presents an offer of components for fashion, accessories and footwear.

British artist among 10 to participate in international exhibition at Istanbul Museum of Modern Art in February 2020 as part of residency programme

Rana Begum, “Baskets” (2017), at Kettle’s Yard, Cambridge, UK

London-based artist Rana Begum is one of ten artists from around the world invited to participate in a new residency programme at the Istanbul Museum of Modern Art, and their work will culminate in an exhibition in February 2020, with the support of the Istanbul Development Agency (ISTRA).

Rana Begum was inspired by the architecture of Istanbul, in particular the domed roofs that are such a prominent feature of the skyline. During her research trip, she visited workshops and learned about different metal spinning techniques. Renowned for her impressive and varied sculptures, Begum will use the practices she observed in Istanbul to create 60 different molds to make a large-scale wall piece for display in the final exhibition.

Born in 1977 in Bangladesh, then moved to the UK with her family, Rana Begum received a BA in painting from the Chelsea College of Arts, followed by an MFA in the same field from the Slade School of Fine Art. She currently lives and works in London. Using various modes of expression such as painting and sculpture, the artist draws inspiration from urban architecture and Islamic arts. She won the Abraaj Prize at Art Dubai 2017 and has had solo exhibitions and participated in group exhibitions in diverse countries, including the UK, the United States, France, Sweden, and China. Her works have appeared in exhibitions at Tate St Ives, UK (2018); Gemeentemuseum Den Haag, the Hague, the Netherlands (2017); Parasol Unit, London (2016); and MAK – Museum of Applied Arts, Vienna (2015).  One of her recent creations "Baskets" was shown at Kettle's Yard, Cambridge, UK, in 2017 as shown in picture above.

Each resident artist invited by the Istanbul Museum spends a total of six weeks in Istanbul over two separate visits, with the first part devoted to first-hand research and the next to the making process. During their first visit, the artists tour the workshops of different artisans, learning about traditional designs, material choices, and production methods. On their second trip to Turkey’s cultural capital, they apply this understanding of local crafts to their own artwork, creating a new piece that will be unveiled in the group exhibition.

Outi Pieski, “Čohkiideapmi / Falling Shawls” (2017), photo by Ari Karttunen / EMMA, and “Ovdavázzit – Forewalkers”, sitespecific sculptural installation for the Finnish Pavilion at the 58th Venice Biennale (2019), photo by Ugo Carmeni

Istanbul Modern is producing a series of short films recording the artists’ individual journeys, and will also compile and present an archival section as part of the exhibition. The museum will hold talks with the artists and organise educational workshops in conjunction with the show.

In addition to Rana Begum of London, the other participating artists are: Faig Ahmed (Baku), Benji Boyadgian (Jerusalem), Rodrigo Hernández (Lisbon and Mexico City), Servet Koçyiğit (Amsterdam), Outi Pieski (Utsjoki and Numminen), Randi & Katrine (Copenhagen), Wael Shawky (Alexandria and Philadelphia), and Jorinde Voigt (Berlin).

Mintel forecasts steady Christmas as British shoppers embrace Black Friday!

*Mintel forecasts December retail sales to be worth £48.7 billion 

*39% of consumers bought something during last year’s Black Friday promotions - Electrical items were the most popular purchases - bought by 49% of Black Friday shoppers

Love it or loathe it, Black Friday is now fully ingrained in the UK retail calendar.  While the official date of Black Friday isn't until November 29, many retailers are launching special deals starting from today, Friday, November 22, catching shoppers who want to do some early Christmas shopping.  

So whether you want to brave the high street full of bargain hunters and tourists or opt for shopping online in the peaceful home (or office) setting, there are serious deals and savings to be had, from electronic toys to games consoles, clothing, beauty and personal care.

Luxury Personalised Christmas Cracker - Family Treats by The Handmade Christmas Co. 

Black Friday is a tradition that originated in the US where retailers cut prices the day after Thanksgiving.  In recent years, UK retailers have hoped on the bandwagon and embraced it as a major annual shopping event in the run-up to Christmas.


According to retail and market experts at Mintel, last year almost two in five (39%) British consumers made a purchase during the Black Friday promotions.  Avoiding the retail rush, 86% of Black Friday shoppers bought online, while just under three in ten (29%) bought in-store. Amazon was the most popular destination, with 42% of Black Friday buyers shopping with the online giant during the event. 

ENGLISH LAVENDER COLLECTION By Yardley London

Overall, electrical items were the most popular purchases, bought by 49% of Black Friday shoppers, followed by clothing and footwear (38%) and beauty and fragrance (25%). 

Nick Carroll, Associate Director of Retail Research at Mintel, said:  “Black Friday is here to stay, and we expect it to be potentially the biggest it’s ever been in the UK. Unlike in recent years, Black Friday 2019 falls right at the end of the month - after payday and less than four weeks before Christmas. This makes perfect timing to capitalise on shoppers who are looking to save during this uncertain period.
Mintel forecasts December retail sales to be worth £48.7 billion 

Despite a particularly tough year, Mintel forecasts some Christmas cheer for Britain’s retailers. Latest research predicts that December’s retail sales will reach £48.7 billion, growing a respectable 3.8% compared to last December when sales hit £46.9 billion.  

 Personalised Christmas Bottle Bags can be ordered from Vanilla Reindeer.

Sales through non-food retailers this December are expected to reach £23.9 billion (including £4.2 billion from online sales generated by physical stores); while food retailers will enjoy sales of £18.8 billion (including £1.4 billion from online sales generated by physical stores). And in the battle between the clicks and bricks, Mintel estimates that internet pure players (online only retailers) will account for £6.0 billion worth of sales.

Mintel forecasts total online sales this December will be worth £11.6 billion, accounting for 23.7% of all retail sales.

Nick Carroll, Associate Director of Retail Research at Mintel, said: “The past few festive periods have shown that customers can be resilient in the face of uncertain times and we believe underlying demand will hold up reasonably well. Customers will, of course, be looking for value, and with fewer days between Black Friday and Christmas this year retailers’ margins may be particularly stretched.

“Although high-street retailers may be under pressure … those that can provide valued experiences whilst tapping into other underlying trends, such as local sourcing and ethical production, combined with attracting value-conscious shoppers, put themselves in a good position this festive season.”

Museum Shop Sunday December 1st - over 1,000 cultural venues

Museums and galleries offer not only arts, cultural and heritage attractions, but are also destinations for retail therapy, especially at this time of the year when consumers are on the look-out for unique gifts that range from quirky bespoke ranges to ethically sourced items.

Christmas Traditions – published in September 2019 from British Library Publishing - is a hardback that offers fascinating compendium of Christmas history by renowned popular historian George Goodwin.  It includes 60+ illustrations of original artwork celebrating a traditional Christmas and attractively packaged in a gift-book format.

Come December 1st, more than 1,000 cultural venues worldwide will celebrate the third annual Museum Shop Sunday, that will offer wide selections of gifts and include also happenings for consumers to participate and experience, such as food sampling and drinks tasting, book signings and craft activities.

Baby T. rex costume by Natural History Museum, London, for playtime, parties, anytime.  Ages Height Chest Waist 12 - 18 months 80cm 50cm 45cm 18 - 24 months 86cm 51cm 46cm 2 - 3 years 98cm 54cm 52cm

Participants in the UK include Historic Royal Palaces, London Transport Museum, the British Library, Imperial War Museums and Royal Museums Greenwich, Garden Museum, to name a few, as well as smaller local museums and galleries.

Christmas cards that Plant Trees and save bees from extinction!

This Christmas, send cards to loved ones that show you also care about our planet.

Each 100% recycled card from 1 Tree Cards comes with the planting of 1 tree in an area of mass deforestation. Inside, the receiver is greeted by a token telling them that '1 tree has been planted for you'. This token is embedded with seeds and can be grown into beautiful bee friendly flowersThis design is taken from our Leaf Moments collection and shows a beautiful festive scene carved out of a leaf image from the Suffolk countryside.

The humble greeting card has now been given an eco makeover that spreads joy to bees and the environment too, thanks to 1 Tree Cards which is on a mission to help save the bees with their 3-in-1 eco greeting cards that send love, plant trees and grow bee-friendly flowers.

When opening a 1 Tree Cards (printed with vegan inks on 100% recycled card), the receiver is greeted with a flower seed token infused with seeds that can be grown into bee-friendly flowers.

A box of Tree Planting Eco Christmas Cards from 1 Tree Cards.  Each box has 10 cards inside; each plants 1 tree and include a seed token that grows into bee friendly flowers. This box is called 'Tree Wishes' and has 2 cards of 5 designs each depicting a single tree with a winter companion.

Co-founder Becky Kijima says: “Bees are a keystone species (who pollinate our food supply) so without them, our ecosystem could cease to exist altogether. We wanted to raise awareness and give people a tangible way to help feed declining bee populations. What better time to do this than when someone’s already full of positive vibes from receiving a card?”

With more people wanting to help save the planet, these Eco cards have been a huge hit since launching last Summer with their growing number of almost 100 stockists, according to 1 Tree Cards.

Sustainability to loom large at PERFORMANCE DAYS, Munich, Germany.

PERFORMANCE DAYS, November 13 – 14 2019, Munich, Germany.


Across industries around the world, the issue of sustainability and the exploitation of resources and environmental pollution caused by the textile industry, specifically in the areas of water consumption, use of harmful chemicals, and CO2 emissions continue to be of much concern. This is the reason why the trade fair for functional fabrics and accessories, PERFORMANCE DAYS, is dedicated to the topic of sustainability and as they have done so for several years now, according to the fair’s top executive.  


Sustainability is a duty of the textile industry and PERFORMANCE DAYS is the engine, said Marco Weichert, head of Performance Days, who said "Sustainability is expected … It is much more than simply using recycled fibres and fabrics. PERFORMANCE DAYS was early to showcase this on a broad scale. We have accompanied the sustainable developments in the industry for many seasons, but even more, we provided the impulse in various directions for sustainability research and development." 


Marketing manager Lena Weimer added: "Our FOCUS TOPICS will focus innovative fibre and fabric producers to pursue developments in this field. Whether recycled fibres, recyclable materials, the important topics of biodegradability, water conservation or the use of natural fibres for functional fabrics – we show all possible textile aspects of sustainability for the industry."


Only sustainable materials will be presented in the curated PERFORMANCE FORUM, so visitors to the trade fair can gain an overview of all aspects of sustainability on the FOCUS TOPIC WALL which will feature a range of qualities, including Recycled fibres, Natural fibres from renewable resources, Recycling qualities, Biodegradables or compostables, Microplastics, Product life cycles, Water conservation, Energy savings, Reduce CO2 emissions and Reduce chemicals. 

TINTEX’s cutting edge colour technology will debut in Munich.  
COLORAU® was created with a Portuguese consortium
 constituted by premium realities and gives life to responsibly 
colored fabrics with antimicrobial properties, 
using natural dyes extracted from different types 
of natural plants resources 
that do not use salt in the production.

From TINTEX Textiles of Portugal will be its “WEME” collection - featuring new fabrics made from a mix of new generation of fibres that enhance free movement such as REFIBRA™ by Lenzing, Q-NOVA® by Fulgar and the unique GRS certified premium stretch ROICA™ EF.  There is also the “ECOPERFORMER” collection developed with Confetil and part of the CO.LAB project, a collaborative smart platform and research-lab aiming to create a new way of making fashion smart presented by C.L.A.S.S. 


TINTEX will feature in Performance Days its cutting-edge color technology which received the Sustainable Solution award in the May 2019 edition of Techtextil.  COLORAU® uses only compounds of natural origin such as thyme, boldo, peppermint, chestnut and gambier in the production of functional and sustainable textiles in a variety of fibers such as cotton, lyocell and wool. An eco-efficient and low temperature surface treatment improves the affinity between the textile substrate and these natural compounds. The technology features a selection of “performing” extracts for appropriate color fastness to light and washing as well as color durability and antimicrobial functionality.

"AGAIN" by PIAVE MAITEX with ROICA™ EF

Also exhibiting at Performance Days will be a selection of fabrics made in ROICA ™ Premium Stretch Fiber designed for everyday life by Asahi Kasei of Japan, which stated that many leading fabric manufacturers and well-known sportswear and active clothing brands in Europe are using the ROICA Eco-Smart™ family of innovations.  From Italy the exhibiting companies are CIFRA S.p.A. showing performing developments, MAGLIFICIO RIPA S.p.A. presenting new intimate, beachwear, athleisure and sportswear developments, M.I.T.I. S.p.A. showcasing innovative stretch warp knitted fabrics for high performance sports; and Piave Maitex S.r.l.; Piave Maitex S.r.l. (IT), booth C13 / hall C1, presents their fabric collection “AGAIN”, a new smart and technically advanced line of highly performing jerseys.


In addition, from France, the Payen group will be introducing an aerodynamic fabric and a Gradual Compression fabric made with ROICA Resistance™ family’s yarns, which stand out for cutting-edge protection stretch functions, to bring performance to a new level.  SOFILETA will present innovative warp & weft knitted materials developed with ROICA™ V550 & ROICA™ EF blended with post-consumer recycled Polyester and recycled Polyamide, as well as blends with Amni® Soul Eco from Solvay.

Sports brand Under Armour is Exclusive Technical Spacewear partner of Virgin Galactic

Virgin Galactic Partners with Under Armour to Unveil the World’s First Exclusive Spacewear System for Private Astronauts as Virgin heads toward commercial operations in 2020.

Virgin Galactic CEO Richard Branson and models showing the full range of Spacewear system 

collaboratively designed with sportswear brand Under Armour.

The new spacewear system follows this mantra, informing fabric choice, structure and fit.  Temperature management, for example, is regulated by performance fibers and knit density, mapped to the body to provide perfect warmth and moisture management, while preventing overheating or chilling. 

Photo from Virgin Galactic

Virgin Galactic photo.

Virgin Galactic and Under Armour unveiled the collaboratively designed Spacewear system in New York two weeks ago for Virgin Galactic astronauts, comprising a base layer, spacesuit, footwear, training suit and Limited Edition astronaut jacket.  It is the first such collection ever created specifically for private astronauts.

As every element of the Virgin Galactic customer journey is designed to enrich the profound and transformative qualities of the human spaceflight experience, according to the CEOs of both companies, the design of astronaut apparel requires a unique combination of comfort and utility matched by the ultimate focus on unique, life-changing customer experience. 

“Virgin Galactic gave us an exciting challenge to build the world’s first commercial spacesuit,” said Kevin Plank, founder and CEO of Under Armour. “Innovation is at the core of everything we do and our team delivered a unique twist on the classic spacesuit utilizing both existing and new UA technologies to define space gear for the future.  It is an incredible opportunity to showcase our key performance innovations in space at the highest level and continue to push the limits of human performance.”

From the initial brief through to final fabrication, the suit design concepts were defined through inputs from a wide variety of experts, including doctors, astronaut trainers, pilots, apparel and footwear designers, engineers and Future Astronaut customers, to fully understand and address all requirements.   

Safety is Virgin Galactic’s North Star and underlined the choice of materials and other key design considerations. Richard Branson said: “Spacesuits are a part of the iconography of the first space age; our visual impressions of human spaceflight and what astronauts wear are inextricably linked. Requirements for astronaut spacewear as we enter the second space age are evolving, but the design challenge has not diminished. We were delighted when Kevin and Under Armour stepped up to this task and they have surpassed our expectations. I love the way the spacewear looks and I love the way it feels. I also love the fact that the next time I put it on, I will be on my way to space.”

Environmental responsibility was central to this year’s edition of Decorex International

This year’s edition of Decorex International was held for the first time at Olympia in Kensington, right in the heart of London.  The 42% edition’s more centralised location may have been the reason why attendance number saw a 10% rise across the four-day spectacle.   

VIP room - Legacy Lounge.  

Photo by Lucia Carpio.

The fair acknowledged the importance of finding new and innovative ways to focus on the environment. And to demonstrate this, the VIP room – Legacy Lounge, was created by UK interior design studio, Harding & Read whose team worked closely with suppliers, including Vinterior, Matthew Cox, Christopher Howe, British Standard and Farrow & Ball, to encourage a conscious approach to consumption. Mindful of the lifecycle of furniture and fixtures, the studio chose vintage and reclaimed pieces where possible.

Each and every piece that featured in the Lounge was given the opportunity to find a new home after the show, with an online auction that raised £14,300 for Emmaus – the charity working to end  homelessness.  

Jennifer Manners' Malibu rug made from recycled plastic.

Photo by Lucia Carpio.

Alongside inspiring new ways for brands to think about their environmental impact, Decorex also celebrated those that are already going above and beyond to be sustainable.

Jennifer Manners' range of home products.

Photo by Lucia Carpio.

This year’s Decorex Awards were the ideal opportunity, with the introduction of a new ‘Best Sustainable Product’ prize. Judges Henry Prideaux, interior designer, and Irene Gunter of interior architecture practice Gunter & Co, gave the accolade to Jennifer Manners, whose eponymous rug brand has released two new designs made from 100% recycled plastic.  

Photo of Bar area in Decorex by Lucia Carpio.

Similarly, this year’s bar design celebrated the very best of biophilic design in the interior space. Created by set designer, Paula May Evans, in collaboration with Cameron Landscapes and Gardens, the bar connected visitors with nature through distinct areas - the Amazonian Jungle Garden, the Abandoned Desert Garden, the English Country Garden and the Urban Industrial Garden.

Photo by Lucia Carpio

More than 400 of the world’s top design talents showcased everything from hand-painted wallpapers and printed fabrics to bespoke furniture and conceptual lighting at the fair held from October 6 to 9.  Visitors could preview the latest launches from leading brands including Arte International, Hästens, Beaumont & Fletcher, Bert Frank, Dedar, Devon & Devon, Ferreira de Sá, Lincrusta, Nicholas Haslam, Officine Gullo, Rose Uniacke, Tom Faulkner, Thibaut, Vaughan and Villaverde. 

While physical store profit margins more than halve in eight years in the UK, ‘Store of The Future’ flagship opens at Selfridges, London

Newly published data report that UK retailers are suffering from diminishing profit margins drawing concern for the UK overall economy, at a time that retailers are gearing for Christmas sales, even without complications of a general election.  However, those retailers, especially fashion brands, that are focused on the value, convenience and luxury segments remain generally resilient, compared to the struggles of mid-market operators.

Strategic partnership and in-store pop-ups give shoppers new physical retail experiences at a time when retailers

are faced with increased challenges presented by online shopping, growing operating costs and inflexible leases.

Photo by Lucia Carpio taken at London's Harvey Nichols during a recent pop-up shop launch.

The new study has found that store margins for the top UK retailers “have dropped from 8.8% in 2009/10 to 4.1% in 2017/18.” According to new data published by global professional services firm Alvarez & Marsal (A&M), in partnership with Retail Economics, store-based profit margins have plunged, faced with growing operating costs, inflexible leases and the rise of online shopping, thus leading to the steepest decline in shoppers’ footfall,  and resulting in a wave of store closures, while demand for UK retail space is at its lowest since 2007.

Richard Fleming, Managing Director and Head of Restructuring Europe, A&M, said a new era of retail is emerging, which means "new opportunities exist for forward-thinking incumbents, entrepreneurs and investors."

Despite the challenges in the sector, UK retailers are being urged to continue to invest in their in-store shopping experience, as bricks-and-mortar shops are expected to account for 65% of retail sales over the next five years.  And while the rise of online shopping has threatened the future of in-store shopping, the study found that 25% of Millennials and Gen Z continue to visit a flagship shopping destination at least once a week - more than their older counterparts, with 45-54-year-olds saying they visit on average just once every six months.

In London, luxury department store Selfridges has long been admired by its ability to strike a balance between offering desirable lifestyle goods and leisure through strategic partnership that gives unique experiences to its shoppers.  One of its newest additions is to have Smartech, an experience-led tech concept store, open a new flagship in the lower ground floor of Selfridges on London’s Oxford Street, within its tech-products section.
Smartech is a new “tech playground” where more than 80 carefully curated cutting-edge innovation pieces are on show to give visitors unique lifestyle experiences.  

Photos above and right by Lucia Carpio.

Fronted by exclusive robotics, IoT, smart art, FemTech, snaps-taking spectacles and the very latest in Deep Tech, it’s said to be the largest and most experiential shop-in-shop at the iconic London department store. 

Smartech is a concept store, designed with 

discovery in mind, created for people to have fun,

diving into a future filled with surprises 

Above, visitors engaging with Waterlight Graffiti, a surface made up 

of thousands of LEDs that are illuminated 

by contact with water, allowing the user to treat it as an electrical canvas.
Photo from Smartech. 

Dubbed by the Financial Times as “The Store of The Future”, Smartech is billed as "a window onto what the world’s creating, bringing life to a new era of ground-breaking makers, creators and start-ups."

Covering 200sqm, Smartech introduces a state-of-the-art store designed by renowned British designer, Robert Storey – previously of Prada, Hermes and Off-White. 

Smartech aims to open your mind to what culture, tech, art and sustainability will look like in the not-so-distant future. Incorporating contemporary and sustainable influences, Smartech’s innovation space “showcases a new design identity, embodying a never-before-seen mixed reality of tech and futurism combined with modernity,” according to founder Jacov Nachtailer.
He said, " Everybody is talking about innovation, but you don’t have a physical space to try, discover and buy. People come to Selfridges to discover, which is why they’re the perfect partner for Smartech, to amaze and amuse their customers with the world’s latest innovations.”

 

From MAKR SHAKER - bar-tending robots serving visitors' favourite cocktails in Smartech, Selfridges.

Photo by Lucia carpio

“As the digital revolution continues to transform everything from politics to pop music, we want give people who create things a platform to tell their story and shine light on new ideas. Pushing the boundaries of where tech, art and creation collide has been a driving force behind our success,” said Nathalie Bernce, CEO of Smartech.
Smartech has been turning the retail game on its head, with huge success, experiencing an aggressive global growth over the past three years and over 143% above target year on year,  In addition to Selfridges, Smartech concept stores are also found in high-end department stores around the world including Paris, Milan, Berlin, Amsterdam, Rome, Zurich and Copenhagen, with another 10 stores opening within the next 12 months.