Rani Zakhem Couture, Autumn Winter 2018-2019: A warrior goddess

Because women of today need to assert herself in the face of challenges.  While the British Prime Minister Theresa May’s position is under threat due to  discord in her cabinet against her Brexit plan, the #MeToo campaign drives focus on the perils of abused women.

Now the Rani Zakhem Couture Autumn Winter 2018-2019 collection presented earlier this month in Paris is a vibrant and sparkling tribute to the combating and combative woman, entitled  Amazone of all jungles and  terribly ”Glamazonian”, she is portrayed like a warrior goddess: a strong silhouette for an empowered woman.

A large part of this collection features gowns in an explosion of white, a value rather than a colour, considered fragile but luminous, bold, a symbol of renewal and resilience, with military reference and camouflage-inspired detailing and motifs.  The recurring military insignia adorn the sleeves of a jacket or coat as giant gold glittering embroidered chevrons.  The new Amazone puts on a appearance of strength and invulnerability, as if ready for combats on all front.  

The collection includes glamorous gowns and dresses in silver, red, black and gold, decorated ornate motifs; glittering emerald, bronze and gold on a pencil skirt; red, black and gold crystals in clusters on an incendiary sheath or on sleeves, or in a single element, gold, iridescent crystal and silver, wrapping the waist of a white silk crepe cocktail dress vertiginously slit on the bias.   Elsewhere, we find the motif in an almost crude state, treated in a falsely literal way, as a serigraph in shades of khaki on a precious silk crepe sablé, for an ultra-feminine  “V” neck spencer jacket with structured shoulders, and sharp cigarette pants.

 

Rani Zakhem’s  "glamazone" is also marked with the seal of the forests translated, here in diaphanous sheaths where intertwined cascades of lianas drawn by the designer and hand embroidered with sequins and white, bronze, silver and gold braided threads. On the skirt of a tulle dress with crinoline all the poetry of an imaginary jungle unfolds, a fairy where fauna and flora blend in a palette of sky blue, pale pink, gold and copper, punctuated here and there by a flight of black birds.

The strapless corset draped in nude tulle, joins the skirt by a movement of ruffled tulle. In this celebration of nature there is also a spectacular crinoline creation, fluttering black tulle, with scattering of crystals, evoking a spider in its precious cobweb. Dragonflies flutter over pastel hues of aquatic vegetation on an exquisite revealing ballgown . as well as an adorable sheath in tulle cascades, nuanced from orange to pink, like a poisonous flower or panoply of native warriors.

Subtle references from Yves Saint Laurent, Marc Bohan and Azzedine Alaïa punctuate the couture vocabulary of Rani Zakhem.

Roberto Cavalli Autumn/Winter 2018 interplays strength and fragility for women and men.

British designer Paul Surridge’s Autumn/Winter 2018 collection – his second for the Italian fashion house Roberto Cavalli - explores the interplay between men and women.

He explains in a recent interview before the catwalk show at Milan Fashion Week in February that the collection was inspired by Sharon Stone’s character, Catherine Tramell, in Basic Instinct, it is also a celebration of the timeless codes of Roberto Cavalli, featuring patterns borrowed from the animal world, including leopard prints and others derived from lynx, lizard and crocodile with furs and exotic skins.

While the silhouettes are emphatic, Surridge shows off his knack for tailoring with artfully cut jackets and coats and trousers for his and hers. 

Look for stretch wools, silks and clinging evening knit dresses with feather patterns in streamline silhouettes, contrasting with billowing chiffons, flirtatious drapes and transparent bouclé.

Denim becomes precious, keyed with embroidery or used as a palette for tailoring in fine wool or luxurious crocodile and python skins.

Other colours speak simultaneously of luxury and strength - violet, scarlet and graphic black.

With a strong focus on Italian artisanship, there are superlative working of leather, beading and embroideries and inspiration drawn from the ombréd surfaces of Murano glass, colouring chiffon dresses and tailored separates. An interplay between strength and fragility.

Menswear plays with the same codes - leathers, denims, animalier - but reinterpreted through a masculine idiom. Finely tailored overcoats combined with the sensuality of silky shirts and leather, atop a strongly-chiselled ankle-boot in polished leather or savage crocodile.

Information source and Images: Cavalli

It’s International Women’s Day. Let’s celebrate the return to Power Dressing, Sonia Rykiel style.

The return of Power Dressing to the Woman. 
 Julie de Libran Artistic Director of Sonia Rykiel presented Autumn-Winter 2018-19 at Paris Fashion Week honouring the spirit of the late iconic Parisian designer Sonia Rykiel: “a spirit that encouraged women to live their lives creatively, individually, and out loud 
– and that includes me,” says de Libran.
The indomitable spirit of self-expression through fashion fuelled the establishment of Sonia Rykiel’s eponymous label fifty years ago, and it continues with Julie de Libran today.
Source and Photo: Sonia Rykiel.

Sonia Rykiel presented Autumn-Winter 2018-19 at Paris Fashion Week.
The artistic director explores the idea of a new Parisienne, a woman at one with the attitude and style of a city but who ultimately goes beyond it.

Sonia Rykiel Autumn-Winter 2018-19 

Above and below: Sonia Rykiel Autumn-Winter 2018-19 

Women are smarter shoppers than men, says relationship marketing platform, Optimove

According to new data, women save on average more than 7 per cent due to preferencing discounted items, according to relationship marketing platform Optimove’s new research, revealing that although women make 2.5 per cent more orders than men, their purchases are less expensive.

"women are without a doubt the savviest shoppers"

Roni Cohen, Data Science Team Leader, comments: “In the world of retail there has been a longstanding assumption that women will pay more than men, and with many retailers recently sticking a higher price tag on Valentine’s cards addressed to “husbands”, it is clear that this notion still exists.

“However, research from Optimove demonstrates that this is far from the truth. In fact, women are without a doubt the savviest shoppers, favouring discounts and remaining loyal to retailers which increases their chance of personalised rewards.       

Roni continues: “Retailers can best serve their female demographic by offering discounts up to 30 per cent – as women are found to buy in larger quantities than men, but typically spend less, offering this reduction aligns well with smart shopping habits and encourages brand loyalty.

“Our research highlights that women are more likely to return to the same retailer after their first purchase. But this shouldn’t be taken as gospel - if retailers want to retain their female customers, they must give them a reason to stay loyal.

“Engaging female customers with personalised offers and rewards, such as birthday gift vouchers or offering free delivery as part of a VIP service, is a great way to provide the treatment they deserve. If customers aren’t treated exceptionally - regardless of gender - they will inevitably go elsewhere.”

Sonia Rykiel Autumn-Winter 2018-19 

Fashion source and photos: Sonia Rykiel

Milan Fashion Week Moncler's duvet shapes have a couture élan

The French-Italian brand Moncler (short for Monestier-de-Clermont, an Alpine town near Grenoble, France) is well-known for its lightweight, down parkas and outdoor gear.

Designer Pierpaolo Piccioli has stripped the classic duvet to the clearest shape. Take a look at what the designer unveiled at Milan Fashion Week for Autunm-Winter 2018-19 at Moncler Genius.

The designer follows the idea that purity is reached when form reflects essence. 

His take on functionality has a couture élan.    

Source & Images: Moncler

Diesel Black Gold delivers an eclectic forward-thinking wardrobe.

Featuring a diverse range of influences, Diesel Black Gold label for the Autumn/Winter 2018/19 season takes a trip around the world for an epic voyage of discovery.

The brand’s signature style takes on the look of a new tribe with urban, contemporary codes updated with a tribal, multi-ethnic filter.

A sense of inclusivity and aggregation permeates the collection highlighting fashion’s unifying power.

There is a Bohemian feel influencing the overall silhouette. Tunics inspire the fit of men’s shirts and sweaters, all decorated with high-side slits and paired with straight and slim pants. At the same time, the bold shapes of peasant dresses and ethnic gowns inform the women’s silhouettes, including flared pants with high side slits.

A sense of artisanal craftsmanship emerges in the lineup, which is focused on tactile textures.

The brand’s signature staples, such as leather jackets, bombers, military peacoats and denim pants, are embellished with inserts in multicolor Navajo carpet patterns, while a patchwork of different shearlings define the eye-catching Mongolian coats.

Source/photos: BeautyPress/Diesel.

Denim with High Performance attributes from VICUNHA

Good quality denim wear are not just for showcasing our assets but also enhancing our well-being.  With the continued popularity of "athleisure" clothing, consumers' thirst for comfort and ease of wear are today addressed by denim makers who use new technology to meet the need for clothes that perform well throughout the day and not just in the gym.

Hi Stretch and Bi Stretch denim from VICUNHA  TEXTIL of Brazil.

Denim maker VICUNHA from Brazil is doing just that by focusing on performance.  Following the introduction of their temperature control denim last season, VICUNHA continue to expand on the theme and launch a selection of hi tech and hi performance fabrics for Autumn/Winter 2018-19, which will be on show at major international trade fairs this September including Munich Fabric Start 5th - 7th September (in the Blue Zone).

Using hi tech  yarns  from Nilit  they  introduce  3  hi tech  fabrics with antibacterial,  moisture  wicking properties  and  temperature  control.

‘BODY  FRESH’  keeps  you  fresh  throughout  the  day, preventing the growth of bacteria that causes body odour. Extremely resilient its antimicrobial properties lasting at least 50 washes.

‘AQUARIUS’ with a high-performance yarn is engineered to wick moisture away from the body, offering comfort to the wearer for continued effectiveness.  The  attributes  are  intrinsic  in  the  fibre,  and  will  not  wash  off  the  fabric, according to VICUNHA.

‘BREEZE’ helps maintain constant body temperature during and after physical performance and hot weather. Use of a special polymer creates soft touch and provides super ventilation.



















This  sector  of  products  is  very  important  for  the  market  as  finishing  techniques  push  the boundaries and the consumer demands clothing that performs through the day not just in the gym, according to executives at VICUNHA TEXTIL, driving the company to continue to pursue textile products in various weaves and weights.

“We see this trend (athleisure) continuing and  customers  growing  their  options  and  adding  new  weave  variations”,  says  Thomas Dislich, Managing Director VICUNHA TEXTIL for Europe and Asia.  "Hi Stretch and Bi Stretch are  still  very  important,  thus VICUNHA  extends its  offer  to  include  bi-stretches  with  higher elasticity adding more vintage options, and although the interest was initially for ladies we are also seeing this coming through for menswear”.

All images from ROLAND HOFFMANN Public Relations for VICUNHA TEXTIL.