Textiles Trade Fair: Milano Unica Celebrates 40th Edition with Record Exhibitor Numbers and Industry Innovation

Milano Unica, Italy's premier trade show for high-end textiles and accessories, marks its 40th edition at Fiera Milano Rho, unveiling the Spring/Summer 2026 collections in halls 13-15 and 22-24.

Photo: Milano Unica

Running from February 4 to 6, 2025, this edition has set a record with 723 exhibitors—the highest in the event’s 20-year history, according to organisers. The exhibitor lineup includes 556 participants (+9.5% from January 2024) across the Ideabiella, Moda In, and Shirt Avenue showcases; 150 exhibitors in Special Areas and the Korea and Japan Observatories; and 17 publishing houses. All Italian textile districts are represented in the fair.

Photo: Milano Unica

The increase in exhibitors has led to a 12% expansion in exhibition space compared to the previous January edition.

These figures reaffirm Milano Unica’s role as a key global platform for high-end textile and accessory manufacturers, helping them navigate an industry shaped by both opportunities and challenges for Made in Italy products.

Photo: Milano Unica

According to Confindustria Research Center, sales of Made-in-Italy textiles declined in 2024, with domestic sales down 5.2% and exports dropping 8.5%, though some markets showed resilience. Exports to China, including Hong Kong, which account for over 10% of the total, grew by 4.8%, while Vietnam and Sri Lanka also saw increases, collectively making up 5% of exports. Despite a slight 1.3% dip in export volumes in the first nine months of 2024, total textile exports remained largely in line with 2023 levels, though at lower prices and margins—a sign of potential recovery in 2025.  

Simone Canclini, President of Milano Unica

Milano Unica President Simone Canclini says, "Reaching this milestone 40th edition with a record number of exhibitors should inspire us to further strengthen Milano Unica’s international leadership," says Canclini. "In a climate of economic uncertainty and geopolitical tensions, the industry needs a robust and strategic platform to support the global expansion of Made-in-Italy and Made-in-Europe textiles and accessories."

He adds, "Thanks to the creativity, innovation, and commitment to sustainability of professionals across various textile districts, the industry remains a key driver of Italy’s economy, generating income, employment, and a positive trade balance. Milano Unica continues to evolve as a research incubator, bridging past, present, and future to foster creative growth. The exhibition dedicated to Anna Piaggi, an iconic fashion figure known for her visionary style and boundary-breaking aesthetics, exemplifies this direction."

The Milano Unica Tendenze area showcases materials for Spring/Summer 2026, emphasizing natural fabrics, lightweight textures, and innovative fibre blends. Accessories also highlight raw materials featuring metallic or recycled plastic and rubber details. Sustainability remains a focal point, with a range of new eco-conscious textile innovations on display.

DESTRO FABRICS

Among key presentations, DESTRO Fabrics debuts new fabrics developed in collaboration with ROICA™ by Asahi Kasei and TENCEL™ by Lenzing, emphasizing sustainability and circularity in applications from apparel to outerwear. 

MARZOTTO Group

The Marzotto Group, through its partnership with Authentico® by Schneider Group, showcases its brands’ creative interpretations infused with passion and values.

ILUNA Group

Iluna Group’s Spring/Summer 2026 collection highlights Plissé and Volants, including a lurex version with fresh floral prints certified by GOTS, emphasizing water conservation. The collection features metallic accents crafted from lurex and GRS-certified foils. Iluna draws inspiration from three designers: Ken Scott, the "gardener of fashion," known for his vibrant floral motifs; Iris Van Herpen, whose sensory design philosophy embraces movement and fluidity; and Guo Pei, who blends Chinese imperial elegance with European royal aesthetics.

Since 2018, Iluna Group has held GRS certification for its Green Label range, championing sustainability through a fully traceable production chain and measurable environmental progress using the Higgs Index.

Photo:  UK Fashion and Textile Association (UKFT)

A delegation of 23 British textile companies, including leading UK mills, manufacturers, cloth merchants, and textile design firms, is exhibiting in the ‘Ideabiella’ area (Hall 24 F09) at Milano Unica under the auspices of the UK Fashion and Textile Association (UKFT). International buyers can explore the UK's rich textile heritage and innovation, discovering everything from classic suiting fabrics to specialty textiles and premium natural fibers like wool and cashmere. Renowned as a global leader in luxury fabrics, the UK showcases responsibly sourced wool, high-fashion silks, and cutting-edge weatherproof materials, reflecting the latest trends and advancements in textile production.

Beyond a commercial event, Milano Unica continues to integrate special areas and cross-disciplinary projects that merge creativity, tradition, aesthetics, and technological innovation.

The 41st edition of Milano Unica is set for July 8-10, 2025.

Fashion Trade Fair: Scoop AW25 edition will take place February 9 - 11 2025 at Olympia West, Kensington

The Autumn/Winter '25 edition of London’s premier fashion event, Scoop, is set to take place from  February 9 to 11, 2025 at Olympia West, Kensington. This season, the show unveils an exciting lineup of new designers and brands, blending international flair with homegrown talent in an exquisitely curated showroom environment, according to organisers.

Karen Radley, Founder and Managing Director of Scoop, shares her enthusiasm: “We’re absolutely thrilled to welcome such an incredible array of new designers to Scoop this season, spanning the UK, France, Italy, Greece, The Netherlands, the US, and beyond. The response has been phenomenal, and I’m delighted to announce that we are now completely sold out. 

"Scoop is constantly evolving, bringing fresh, dynamic talent to the forefront, and this season’s designers are truly exceptional—offering beautiful collections that visitors will love discovering.”

Fabienne Chapot

Among this season’s standout brands, Amsterdam-based Fabienne Chapot presents a collection brimming with bold, in-house-designed prints, rich hues, feminine tailoring, and playful details. French family footwear brand Vanessa Wu offers an elegant yet versatile selection of trainers, ankle boots, and chic sandals. Buyers can also explore Claris Virot’s stunning leather handbags, ranging from sleek clutches to spacious travel totes, while Leon & Harper delivers a womenswear collection that fuses Parisian sophistication with artistic expression, featuring luxurious materials and a refined color palette.

Nobody's Child

London-based Nobody’s Child embraces cosy, countryside-inspired aesthetics, with tapestry-style prints, feminine embroidery, signature outerwear, and romantic florals. Avec Les Filles infuses Parisian elegance with a laid-back Californian edge, offering expertly tailored blazers, soft knits, flirty dresses, and statement outerwear—all crafted with meticulous attention to detail.

Le Bonnet

For jewellery and accessories, Anna Beck brings wanderlust-inspired, 100% handmade Balinese designs, while Susmie is set to showcase its vibrant scarves and bold, colourful jewellery. From Ebvory’s bespoke New York tailoring to Le Bonnet’s luxurious wool beanies, the season’s offerings cater to a diverse range of retailers. Adding an extra touch of indulgence, Desert Fleur by Maison Milan will debut its latest collection of sophisticated fragrances.

Gas Bijoux

Buyers can also discover an array of new names, including Vannina Vesperini, Simone à Bordeaux, From Future, Mes Demoiselle, Mishky, and many more.

With its signature curation of contemporary and emerging talent, Scoop promises an unmissable showcase of style, creativity, and innovation this season.

Images courtesy of SCOOP.

Fashion Trade Fair: Moda x Pure Debuts at Spring Fair, Showcasing Fashion Trends and Industry Insights

Launched today at Birmingham’s NEC, Moda x Pure makes its debut as the newest addition to Spring Fair. Running until February 5th, this dynamic fashion trade event welcomes industry experts and buyers to explore an exclusive selection of Womenswear, Clothing & Footwear, Fashion Accessories, and Jewellery & Watch. Alongside the curated showcase, attendees can engage in a compelling lineup of educational sessions and catwalk presentations.

At the heart of the show, The Inspiring Retail Stage hosts the Moda x Pure Catwalk, featuring bold styling and trend-forward looks from exhibiting brands.

A highlight of the catwalk is The Pure Edit, spotlighting brands previously featured at Pure, including Angeleye, City Goddess, Trixxi, and AX Paris. This season’s theme, A Modern Love Story, blends contemporary fairy tale elements with practical, romantic designs. Expect silk satins, lace, and embellishments, seamlessly paired with urban tailoring to create an ethereal, dreamlike aesthetic in soft, delicate hues.

The catwalk will also showcase collections from exhibitors such as Target Dry, Goose Island, Fabuline, and Sunco Knitwear, presenting an inspiring mix of styles for the upcoming season.

Supporting Emerging Talent

Committed to fostering the next generation of fashion innovators, Moda x Pure has partnered with the Graduate Fashion Foundation, a key organization in the industry. This collaboration provides a platform for four Graduate Fashion Week designers to present their visionary collections alongside established brands, offering fresh perspectives and creative ingenuity to the trade audience.

Industry Insights & Expert Talks

The Inspiring Retail Stage will host engaging panel discussions, providing invaluable insights into sustainability, technology, and emerging fashion trends.

Jeff Banks, a legendary figure in British design, will reflect on his 60-year journey in licensing, branding, and fashion, sharing personal anecdotes and hard-earned lessons.

Kate Hardcastle will deliver a keynote on The Science of Shopping – What Consumers Want Next, offering deep insights into evolving consumer behavior and actionable strategies for retailers.

Andrew Xeni, founder of sustainable fashion brand Nobody’s Child, will share his expertise on scaling an eco-conscious brand in today’s competitive digital landscape.

For retailers looking to expand into homeware, Trendhub’s creatives will reveal AW25/26 Homeware and Festive trends, highlighting the interplay between minimalism and abundance, raw craftsmanship, and bold print layering.

Relaxation & Hands-On Experience

Visitors can unwind at the Moda x Pure Fashion Café, a stylish retreat offering coffee and inspiration. Pop-up activations include styling sessions with Visual Merchandising Specialist Sarah Manning, where buyers can experience Moda x Pure brands like Yumi, Goose Island, Trixxi, Angeleye, and AX Paris firsthand.

A New Era for Spring Fair

Soraya Gadelrab, Event Director at Spring Fair, shares her excitement:

“Moda x Pure marks a thrilling new chapter, bringing together contemporary fashion, bold trends, and essential retail insights. The Moda x Pure Catwalk will bring these collections to life, offering a front-row seat to the season’s most exciting looks. This collaboration celebrates creativity and innovation, giving attendees an unparalleled opportunity to discover new collections and connect with industry leaders.”

She added that with its carefully curated selection, expert-led discussions, and immersive fashion experiences, Moda x Pure sets the stage for an inspiring and forward-thinking season at Spring Fair 2024.

About Spring Fair

Spring Fair is one of the UK’s leading retail event attracting 38,000 buyers with a combined budget of £2.25bn. 

2025 will celebrate 75 years of rich heritage. as it was inaugurated by the Queen in 1976 when it moved to the NEC.

For full details on Spring Fair and Moda x Pure, click HERE.

Luxury brand: Louis Vuitton's luxuriously crafted travel trunks and luggage have a timeless appeal

It’s not that the French fashion and luxury luggage brand Louis Vuitton has been keeping a low profile.

Louis Vuitton luggage remains one of today's most sought-after in vintage markets.
These were seen at the interiorboutiques.com stand at the Winter Decorative Fair in Battersea Park, London,
January 22 - 26 2025.
Photo by Lucia Carpio

Just last week, on the opening day of Paris Men’s Fashion Week, Louis Vuitton unveiled its Fall/Winter 2025 menswear collection, helmed by artistic director Pharrell Williams. The show generated significant media buzz, largely due to its collaboration with Japanese designer Nigo. A nostalgic ode to the 2000s, the collection reflected the duo’s 20-year relationship, dating back to their work on Billionaire Boys Club in 2004.

Historically, Louis Vuitton luggage was used by royalty, aristocrats, and celebrities.
Owning a vintage piece is often seen as owning a piece of history.

Then, this week, came another major announcement: Louis Vuitton will be the title sponsor of Formula One’s season-opening Australian Grand Prix in Melbourne on March 16, 2025. With prominent trackside signage, the official race name will be the Formula One Louis Vuitton Australian Grand Prix, featuring LV-designed trophy trunks on the podium. This partnership falls under the 10-year sponsorship deal that Louis Vuitton’s parent company, LVMH, signed with Liberty Media-owned Formula One last October—covering brands such as Louis Vuitton, Moët Hennessy, and TAG Heuer.

Meanwhile, Louis Vuitton’s long-standing collaboration with Japanese contemporary artist Takashi Murakami is celebrating its 20th anniversary. To mark the occasion, LV is relaunching the collection with a campaign fronted by Hollywood star Zendaya, who was only eight years old when the original collaboration debuted. Murakami’s vibrant and playful designs made a major impact two decades ago, and the new “extensive re-edition” includes over 200 pieces, ranging from bags and footwear to fragrances and sunglasses.

Yet, despite this flurry of high-profile projects, Louis Vuitton was noticeably absent from the latest Lyst Index ranking of the world’s hottest brands.

This week, when global fashion search platform Lyst released its Q4 2024 Lyst Index—a quarterly ranking of fashion’s most sought-after brands—Louis Vuitton failed to make the Top 20.

Lyst, which tracks over 200 million shoppers annually, compiles the Index based on online searches, product views, sales, and social media engagement over a three-month period. According to Lyst, 2024 was a year of transformation in fashion, with consumers reassessing the value of luxury labels. Miu Miu dominated, taking the No.1 spot in three of the last four quarters, with Loewe briefly disrupting its streak in Q2. Prada remained a consistent Top 3 brand, while Saint Laurent climbed steadily within the Top 5.

The rest of the ranking saw significant movement, reflecting shifts in consumer preferences. Notably, Coach skyrocketed 10 places to No.5, experiencing a 332% year-on-year surge in demand thanks to a Gen Z-focused strategy and strong holiday sales.

LV’s menswear AW25 collection, blending streetwear influences with its luxury heritage, showcased boxy bomber jackets, distorted camouflage, checked Damier prints, shaggy cardigans, and flared denim. While tailoring was minimal, the collection embraced bold accessories, catering to younger consumers with chunky furry slippers, miniature bags, phone cases, backpacks, and even travel trunks.

Early Louis Vuitton flat-top trunks, wardrobe trunks, or pieces with exotic finishes can be especially valuable.

An antique Louis Vuitton steamer trunk or wardrobe trunk in excellent condition is valued for
 its age, provenance, and rarity.  Unique features like custom monograms, original interiors, and labels from different boutiques add to their value.

These were spotted at the interiorboutiques.com stand during the Winter Decorative Fair in Battersea Park, London, in January 2025.

It’s a stark contrast from the brand’s origins in luxury travel trunks. Yet, despite the shift in aesthetic, Louis Vuitton luggage remains one of today's most sought-after categories, both in contemporary and vintage markets.

With a legacy dating back to the mid-19th century, Louis Vuitton trunks and suitcases are crafted from premium materials like canvas, leather, and brass hardware, ensuring their durability and timeless appeal. The classic monogram canvas, Damier checkered print, and other signature motifs have never gone out of style, making vintage pieces highly coveted by collectors. Vintage trunks are often used as statement pieces in home decor. Their timeless elegance makes them versatile as coffee tables, storage units, or conversation starters.

Perhaps, in today’s volatile fashion landscape, Louis Vuitton should consider refocusing on its core business—luxuriously crafted travel trunks and luggage—an evergreen symbol of prestige, heritage, and craftsmanship.

The vintage Louis Vuitton luggage featured here were spotted at the Winter Decorative Fair in Battersea Park, London from January 22 - 26 2025.  The fair offered a unique mix of antiques, design and art for interiors and exteriors as well as collectable pieces of outstanding craftsmanship.  All photos by Lucia Carpio.

Market update:  

In the week of January 29, reports emerged that French luxury conglomerate Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton (LVMH) faced declines in both revenue and profit, reflecting the impact of challenging market conditions in fiscal year 2024.

For the year, group revenue totaled €84.7 billion, marking a 2% decrease compared to the record-breaking figures of 2023. However, on an organic basis—adjusted for currency fluctuations and portfolio changes—revenue showed a modest 1% increase. In the final quarter, the group also achieved 1% organic revenue growth, surpassing market expectations.

Performance by Division

Fashion & Leather Goods (including Louis Vuitton, Christian Dior, Loewe, Givenchy, and Celine) recorded €41.1 billion in revenue, a 3% decline (organically -1%) from the previous year.

Wines & Spirits saw an 11% revenue drop (organically -8%), bringing in €5.9 billion.

Watches & Jewelry declined by 3% (organically -2%) to €10.6 billion.

Perfumes & Cosmetics was a bright spot, growing 2% (organically +4%) to €8.4 billion.

Selective Retailing—which includes DFS, Sephora, and Le Bon Marché—increased 2% (organically +6%) to €18.3 billion.

Profit Decline

LVMH’s profitability also took a hit:

Profit from recurring operations dropped 14%, totaling €19.6 billion.

Net profit attributable to shareholders fell 17% to approximately €12.5 billion.

Despite the declines, LVMH remains the world’s largest luxury group, navigating economic headwinds while maintaining growth in selective areas.

Texworld Fairs Update: Texworld Apparel Sourcing Paris presenting Sustainability and Innovation in February 2025 edition

Texworld, Apparel Sourcing, and Texworld Denim, set to take place at Le Bourget Exhibition Centre in Paris from February 10–12, 2025, invite trade visitors to explore a dynamic showcase of textile and fashion innovation. With a carefully curated selection of exhibitors - numbering more than 1,200 from 25 countries - the fairs promise a diverse range of products at competitive prices while pushing the boundaries of creativity, technology, and sustainability. From cutting-edge advancements to eco-conscious practices, exhibitors are ready to inspire and collaborate.

Ma’am Arts

Messe Frankfurt France highlights several ground-breaking innovations debuting at Texworld. Rorica will showcase its waterless dyeing technology, Toyoshima will present its sustainable activewear fabrics, and Frog will introduce bold, vibrant prints. These exhibitors blend artistry, sustainability, and high production standards to shape the future of textiles. 

Roica

Meanwhile, the Turkish Pavilion will feature Hazir Kumaş, known for its ready-made fabrics and digital printing; Erka Fabrics, a leader in cotton and blended materials; and Emateks Yün İplik, which specialises in wool and knit fabrics produced with solar-powered sustainability.

ERKA Fabrics

At Apparel Sourcing, craftsmanship meets innovation with exhibitors like A Knitconcept, bringing 35 years of expertise in knitwear production, including sustainable yarns for trend-driven designs. Ma’am Arts showcases a unique approach to apparel manufacturing, combining creativity and quality to set new standards in ready-to-wear fashion.

A Knitconcept

Experience Textile

Texworld Denim will also spotlight a blend of artistry and sustainability. Glamour Denim will present high-quality solutions tailored to global brands, while Highlight Textile introduces its innovative sustainable knit denim. Experience Textile will celebrate handmade techniques with a contemporary twist, showcasing the diversity and creativity driving modern denim production.

More than 1,200 weavers and garment makers are anticipated to gather in Halls 2, 3, and 4 of the exhibition centre for this February 2025 edition. 

All photos courtesy of Messe Frankfurt France.

Happy Chinese New Year of the Snake 2025!

The Chinese "Lunar" New Year celebrations begin on January 29 this year, bringing festivities to communities around the world. According to tradition, the celebration lasts for 15 days, with each day carrying its own special blessings and significance.

Just Cavalli necklace featuring a snake pendant in plated gold and colourful stones.
Photo by Lucia Carpio

In 2025, we welcome the Year of the Snake, as the Chinese zodiac follows a 12-year cycle, assigning an animal sign to each year.

The snake is regarded by many as the most tenacious of the 12 zodiac animals and is often seen as mysterious and enigmatic. In Chinese symbolism, those born under this sign are said to have sharp insight and exceptional intelligence.

In keeping with tradition, we extend our warmest wishes to all who are celebrating—may this Chinese New Year bring prosperity, good health, success, and happiness.

Textiles Fair: Première Vision Paris to celebrate craftsmanship and reveal the SS26 fashion trends in its February 2025 edition

From February 11 to 13 2025, professionals in the textile and fashion industries will gather at one of the sector’s premier events—Première Vision Paris—hosted at the Paris Nord Villepinte Exhibition Centre (Parc des Expositions). This internationally renowned trade fair will celebrate craftsmanship and innovation, uniting key players from across the creative and sustainable fashion spectrum, from mass-market brands to luxury labels. 

Only companies selected by Première Vision’s rigorous selection committee, composed of industry professionals, buyers, and in-house experts, are granted the opportunity to exhibit. This careful curation guarantees a high-quality showcase that reflects the diversity of the market, from mass production to luxury.

Visitors will have the chance to preview the new Spring-Summer 2026 collections presented by exhibitors and explore the latest advancements in textiles, leather, accessories, and design. They will be able to meet over 1,060 professionals from around 40 countries, including Italy, France, Spain, Portugal, Japan, the United Kingdom, Belgium, Korea, Turkey, China, and more, according to the organisers.

PV Paris photo

A highlight of this February edition is Maison d’Exceptions (MEX), an annual showcase dedicated to rare and exceptional artistry. Featuring 20 artisans and workshops from around the world, the space will spotlight unique techniques—both contemporary and traditional—that define the pinnacle of craftsmanship.

PV Paris - Maison d'Exceptions - February 2024
Photo by Lucia Carpio

Returning to show at MEX are Kashida, Berbrand SRL, Ricami Laura S.R.L.,  Shimogawa, Kasagi Fiber Studio, Kossu, STEL SCP, Studio 1886 SAS, Atelier Seiran, Omi-Jofu, Atelier Aurélia Leblanc Création Textile,  Aurélia Le Blanc, Superlativa, Cécile Feilchenfeldt, Cécile Gray, and Stel Ornements. In the leather category, artisans such as Audrey Bigouin, Hors Studio, and Studio Loann push the boundaries of traditional craftsmanship by blending it with contemporary innovation and eco-responsible practices. These creators repurpose scraps and waste materials into striking designs, exploring vibrant textures, intricate entanglements, and delicate color palettes. Their work elevates imperfection, transforming constraints into opportunities for creativity while merging aesthetics with respect for materials. The resulting creations are both sculptural and functional, offering an inspired fusion of fine craftsmanship and modern design.

New exhibitors here will include Antonin Mongin (France): Textilization of rare fibers (hair, horsehair, raffia, sisal), and production of plant-based faux furs; Audrey B. Studio (France): Braiding, cutting, folding, embroidery, and 3D modeling; Hélène Dashorst (Netherlands): Hand weaving; Onao (Japan): Development of new materials from Japanese paper, using traditional techniques like Yuzen, gilding, and embossing; Shenzhen Liangzi Fashion Industrial (China): Hand-dyed silk with an ancestral method using a Chinese medicinal plant; Soy Como Soy (Germany): Straw weaving techniques; and TDS (Switzerland): Screen printing and fabric enhancement.

Photo by Lucia Carpio

Première Vision establishes itself as a trailblazer for future trends, with its fashion team crafting innovative and visionary insights each season. These insights provide a forward-thinking perspective on emerging creative currents and industry innovations.

Photo by Lucia Carpio

Central to this process is the development of an exclusive colour range, which serves as the foundation. This palette is created in collaboration with French and international experts, who draw inspiration from emerging influences in art, design, and materials. The result is an inspiring and dynamic colour palette that acts as a guiding tool for professionals in the fashion industry and beyond.

Desolina Suter, Fashion Director of Première Vision said: "The development of fashion trends is a subtle alchemy of intuition, analysis, and collaboration. It’s a process where every detail matters, from the vibrancy of colours to the impact of cultural movements. By listening to the heartbeat of the world—whether from the arts, technology, or societal transformations—we can capture the essence of the moment and translate it into visions that inspire, connect, and transform the fashion industry. Creating trends is, above all, about imagining tomorrow with the tools of today."

PV Paris organisers have since July 2024 streamlined  the fair's two-hall layout, encompassing eight distinct sectors —Accessories, Designs, Fabrics, Leather, Maison d’Exceptions, Manufacturing, Smart Creation, and Yarns across the two halls to cater to the needs of the creative and responsible fashion markets.

Photo by Lucia Carpio

The new layout is designed to enhance visitor flow, fosters stronger business connections, and ensures a smoother experience with shorter, more efficient routes, say the organisers. 

Two Fashion Forums to Explore

1. Inspiration Forum (Hall 5)

An immersive space dedicated to the major trends of the Spring-Summer 2026 season, the Inspiration Forum places a special emphasis on cutting-edge craftsmanship. Visitors will find highlights such as airy structures, constructions enhanced by new 3D technologies, lightweight designs for summer protection, and more. It celebrates artisanal work and sustainable creativity across all specialties, including Fabrics, Leather, and Accessories.

A key feature in Hall 5 this season is the presentation of embroidery by specialist Louise Robert, in a dedicated space.  Ms Robert will present her creations and perform live embroidery demonstrations on Söktaş fabrics using Ensar threads throughout the fair. 

2. Sourcing Solution Forum (Hall 6)

This forum is designed to simplify the process of selecting suppliers and materials for collection development. Organized by specialty, it covers a wide range of product categories, including prints, embroidery, lace, silks and jacquards, shirting fabrics, denim, casual wear, city wear, woolens, knitwear, sports and outdoor apparel, and lingerie.

Additionally, the forum features dedicated spaces for yarns, manufacturing, and an eco-innovation area spotlighting materials with a low environmental impact. It provides a comprehensive sourcing solution for brands seeking both quality and sustainability in their product offerings.

Trade Fair Report: London's Top Drawer S/S25 hailed a success by organisers

As the curtains closed on the Top Drawer S/S25 trade fair last week, organizers hailed the event that targets retailers as a success, reporting a 7% increase in exhibitors compared to the previous January. The show also saw significant growth in attendance from high-spending buyers.

Held at Olympia exhibition centre in Kensington, London, from January 12 to 14, 2025, the event's exhibitor surge was driven by a record 30% of brands making their debut, alongside a further 7% of returning participants, including prominent names such as Burgon & Ball, Emma Bridgewater, Katie Leamon, Orange Tree Toys, Portico Designs, Rex International, and The Art File, reported the organisers.

Together, these brands joined a lineup of more than 600 curated suppliers, drawing thousands of retailers from across the UK and internationally. Attendees flocked to discover the latest in design and innovation, with universal acclaim for the show’s offerings.

Jen Maude-Roxby, Deputy Head of Licensing at the iconic Victoria & Albert Museum—known for its gift and souvenir shop—offered high praise, remarking that anyone considering attending the fair would not be disappointed.

She said, "We visit Top Drawer every year to discover new trends and products. This year, we've been inspired by the vibrant colors, fresh designs, and innovative products. The highlight for us has been the launch of the V&A range by Ohh Deer, which is debuting at Top Drawer."

Denise Llanera-Wittletonv, Senior Designer, The National Gallery concurred:  "I frequently visit Top Drawer for inspiration and to discover new brands, especially smaller ones. My favorite part is the Better Trends feature, which showcases upcoming trends. I particularly appreciate brands that are open to collaboration, blending their identities with ours while maintaining their uniqueness." 

Julia Grant, Owner, Winter’s Moon also added:  “One of the highlights of our calendar – it gives us the chance to discover beautiful new products for the shop, as well as say hello to some of our lovely existing suppliers. We found some amazing new things this time around!”

Following significant investment, the expanded VIP Buyer Programme delivered outstanding results over the three days, with organizers reporting an 18% increase in visitors with budgets of £1-2m, a 7% rise in those with £2-5m, a 19% boost in the £5-10m category, and an unprecedented 57% growth in attendees with budgets exceeding £10m.

This surge brought a lineup of retail leaders to the event, with over 100 Senior Buying Managers, Directors, Founders, Owners, and CEOs in attendance. Notable names included Fenwick, Flying Tiger Copenhagen, Fortnum & Mason, Graham & Green, Historic Royal Palaces, Hoopers Department Stores, House of Cards, Jarrold & Sons, John Lewis, Lark London, Laura Ashley, Liberty, Moonpig.com, MORLEYS, Next, Norli AS, Oliver Bonas, Papersmiths, Postmark, Rockett St George, Royal Botanic Gardens Kew, SCP, Scribbler, Southbank Centre, Tate Commerce, The Barbican Centre, The Design Museum, The Dulwich Trader, The National Gallery, The Paper Store, The V&A, The White Company, TJX Europe, twentytwentyone, Ulster Stores & de Gruchy, Vinegar Hill, and Waterstones, among others.

Exhibitors expressed their satisfaction with the quality and volume of buyers. Comments included:

“We haven’t been in a while and are so glad to be back at Top Drawer! We wish the show was two days instead of three as we can’t cope with the amount of orders coming in!” – Hollie Glaister, Head of Wholesale, Emma Bridgewater

“Top Drawer is over for another season, but what a show we had… seeing so many customers (new and old), and supplier and publishing friends.” – Mark Callaby, Managing Director, Ohh Deer

“Top Drawer Spring has been the best show we’ve done in 23 years! I would definitely recommend it!” – Kali Stileman, Owner, Kali Stileman Publishing

“We’ve had an incredible time exhibiting this week! We thoroughly enjoyed reconnecting with our wonderful customers while welcoming new faces to the fold.” – Victoria Eggs, Founder, Victoria Eggs

The Retail Revealed stage proved to be a bustling hub of activity, offering sessions with actionable insights. Among the highlights was "Mastering Live Selling Strategies," presented by Nicole Higgins and Natalie Duvall, which provided practical guidance for integrating live shopping into retail strategies. Another popular session, "Press for Success," saw Amanda FitzGerald and Kirsty Raper share expert tips on leveraging media coverage to enhance brand visibility. 

The final day also featured the Product Pitch competition, where three finalists—Rounded, Sarah Petherick, and Planet Good Earth—showcased their innovative products to a panel of industry leaders. Planet Good Earth emerged as the winner, impressing judges with their eco-friendly educational products, thoughtful design, and commitment to sustainability. Their victory earned them a week-long pop-up at a leading department store in collaboration with Ind!e.

Rounding out the event, the Spotlight Awards celebrated excellence in 11 categories during a live on-stage ceremony on Sunday evening, adding a touch of glamour and recognition to this already vibrant fair.  Here are the winners of the various categories:

Best Newcomer: Studio Frewb

Best New Product, Fashion: Kind Bag

Best New Product, Food: Halen Môn

Best New Product, Gift: PICCOLO Seeds

Best New Product, Greetings & Stationery: Wildwood Paper

Best New Product, Home: Pri Pri

Best New Product, Launchpad: PINNOLE

Best New Product, Play: Best Years

Best New Product, Wellbeing: Salt + Steam

Innovation in Design: Rex London

Best Stand: The Art File

The next edition of Top Drawer is set to take place from September 14 to 16, 2025 and organisers at Clarion Events say they are committed to maintain the fair as a benchmark for the retail industry, highlighting innovation, creativity, and collaboration ensures it remains an unmissable date in the retail calendar.

Commenting on the runaway success of the show, Top Drawer’s Event Director David Westbrooke remarked: “To have three successive years of such significant growth is testament to both the hard work of the team, and the high-regard that the show is held in by the industry; if you want to be in a room with the very best of Retail, Top Drawer is where you do it!”

Photos by Lucia Carpio

Fashion Week News: Ukrainian fashion brand TG Botanical will showcase its AW25 collection at Copenhagen Fashion Week

Copenhagen Fashion Week AW25 will take place from January 27 to 31, 2025, offering a dynamic lineup of showcases, presentations, events, activations, and talks.

A highlight of this season is the continuation of the partnership between Ukrainian Fashion Week and Copenhagen Fashion Week. Now in its sixth season, this collaboration celebrates the "Support Ukrainian Fashion" initiative. Copenhagen Fashion Week has been a leader in bringing global attention to Ukrainian fashion, demonstrating steadfast support for the country’s designers and industry.

On January 30, from 10:30 to 12:30 CET, Ukrainian brand TG Botanical will present its AW25 collection at the Design Museum Danmark. Founded in 2021 by designer Tetyana Chumak, TG Botanical is renowned for its modern women’s clothing made from natural materials like hemp, linen, cotton, and nettle fibres. Using traditional dyeing methods and plant-based pigments sourced from tansy flowers, acorns, onion husks, and coffee beans, the brand emphasises sustainability and ethical production by crafting all collections in-house. TG Botanical debuted on the official CPHFW FW23 schedule, selected as a finalist for the Zalando Sustainability Award.

Iryna Danylevska, Founder and CEO of Ukrainian Fashion Week, expressed the profound importance of this partnership:

"Our resilience is a testament to the strength and unbreakable spirit of Ukrainian designers. We deeply appreciate Copenhagen Fashion Week’s ongoing support for the Ukrainian fashion industry and are honoured to collaborate again for the AW25 season. Through fashion, we strive to preserve culture, traditions, and creativity even in the darkest times. It is our responsibility to shed light on the daily challenges faced by thousands of industry workers who persevere under conditions like rocket attacks and power outages. Fashion allows us to share our story with the world and highlight the realities Ukraine faces today."

London Art Exhibition: Cavaliero Finn to bring works of 12 contemporary artists to the London Art Fair January 22-26 2025

Cavaliero Finn, a London gallery, will present The Anonymous Line at the London Art Fair, running from January 22 to 26, 2025, at the Business Design Centre in Islington.

The Anonymous Line draws inspiration from the visionary philosophy of Anni Albers, the renowned German-Jewish artist and printmaker who revolutionized textile art in the 20th century. Influenced by the Bauhaus movement, Albers advocated for the creation of universal and enduring beauty.

The exhibition will showcase a curated collection of abstract paintings, sculptures, textiles, and ceramics, echoing Albers' timeless approach to design. In her essay "Design: anonymous and timeless" (Magazine of Art, vol. 40, no. 2, February 1947, pp. 51–53), Albers wrote:

"The more we avoid standing in the way of the material and in the way of tools and machines, the better chance we have that our work will not be dated, will not bear the stamp of too limited a period of time and be old-fashioned someday... And it will outlast fashions only if it embodies lasting, together with transitory, qualities."

The exhibition will feature works by painters Helen Kincaid, Joseph Goody, Lavinia Gallie, and Mia Cavaliero; textile artists Isabel Fletcher, Katharine Swailes, and Caron Penney; ceramicists Alice Foxen, Mimi Joung, Nicholas Lees, and Matthew Chambers; and sculptor Simon Gaiger.

These works reflect a commitment to neutrality and timelessness, evoking a beauty not tied to a particular era but rather emerging from the intrinsic qualities of line, colour, shape, and form.

For more information on The Anonymous Line, click HERE.

Established twenty years ago in 2004, Cavaliero Finn has placed work in several museum collections including The Victoria and Albert Museum, The Fitzwilliam Museum in Cambridge, The Swindon Museum and Art Gallery, The Ulster Museum and the Manchester Art Gallery.

In addition to the curated selection of art and design available through the online gallery cavalierofinn.com, the company curates regular pop-up exhibitions in London in carefully chosen venues and often as part of Crafting A Difference, a collaboration between four of the UK's leading craft galleries, including Vessel Gallery, MADEINBRITALY and jaggedart. These one-off exhibitions, programmed throughout the year, are complemented by participation in contemporary art fairs such as the London Art Fair, Collect and The British Art Fair.

Wool News: the Campaign for Wool and Cape Wools present Sustainable, Traceable South African Merino Wool in Pitti Imagine Uomo, Florence

This week, the latest edition of the menswear trade show, Pitti Imagine Uomo in Florence, set the stage for sustainably certified wool through a special event with the Campaign for Wool and Cape Wools, which championed the beauty, softness, unique crimp and traceability of South African Merino Wool.

The event, hosted at The British Institute in Florence on 14 January, saw the launch of a new Menswear capsule collection, created by one of South Africa’s best-known design-duo mmusomaxwell, (Maxwell Boko, Mmuso Potsane).  

As former International Woolmark Prize Winners and recipients of the Karl Lagerfeld Award for Innovation, and in keeping with their design aesthetic inspired by African heritage and contemporary culture, the ethically-focused label created a series of garments crafted in woollen cloth supplied by Moon, worsted cloth by REDA and knitwear yarns from Gerber & Co (SA).

The presentation also showcased Merino wool fibres, yarns and garment pieces supplied by Moon, Knoll Yarns, Gerber & Co, Core Merino, Lukhanyo Mdingi and Viviers, all selected to demonstrate South African Merino’s versatility, durability, soft handle, colour and lustre, to retailers, designers, buyers, specifiers and brands in attendance. 

Each innovative garment and design presented celebrates heritage, craftsmanship and local knowledge, sourced from different regions of South Africa cementing South Africa’s rightful place on the global fashion stage.

South Africa is home to around 8,000 commercial wool farmers, and just over 45,000 individual communal farmers. These communal farmers do not own their own land, and they farm on land allocated to them to run their sheep. They are dependent on their source of income from wool, which plays a very important role in ensuring the livelihoods of these communities. 

mmusowaxwell said, “Sustainability has always been at the heart of our design process. We are incredibly proud that our home, South Africa, offers a reliable source of sustainably certified wool, which meets the Sustainable Cape Wools Standard. Our first menswear collection reflects our affinity for tailoring and incorporates our signature asymmetric illusion layering.” 

Peter Ackroyd, the new Chairman of Campaign for Wool, said, “The South African Merino wool industry consistently generates high quality, environmentally sound products for international markets. The country has a rich history of sheep and wool farming from established woolgrowers who understand the importance of animal welfare and environmental excellence. Pitti Imagine Uomo offers a perfect platform to showcase some of the leading brands and manufacturers working with these yarns and fabrics. The brands selected for this particular presentation include Woolmark licensees Moon, REDA and Knoll Yarns, each offering unique product and quality assurance that have fully embraced transparency in the supply chain.” 

Deon Saayman, Chief Executive Officer, Cape Wools added, “I believe this is an exciting opportunity for the South African Wool industry, and our recent partnership with Oritain ensures South African wool can be verified globally and at any point in the supply chain using Oritain’s unique auditing methodology combining forensic science and data to detect naturally occurring elements in a product or raw material. As proof of origin, the Oritain Verification of Origin and Provenance mark can be displayed on labels with a unique QR code providing a direct digital link to the guarantee. Our wool consumers worldwide deserve to know where the garment or product they have purchased comes from. We are now the world’s leading supplier of sustainably certified traceable wool.”

Images from Campaign for Wool and Cape Wools.

Sustainability Collaboration: British Fashion Council Adopts Copenhagen Fashion Week's Sustainability Requirements

Copenhagen Fashion Week's Sustainability Requirements has been leading the fashion industry since its inception in 2020, and its introduction of a minimum set of standards that all CPHFW show & presentation schedule brands have had to conform to was adopted in January 2023.

Now the British Fashion Council and Copenhagen Fashion Week announce a new collaboration, joining forces to align their efforts to accelerate the industry's sustainability actions across the Nordic and British fashion markets. 

As part of the collaboration, the BFC will roll out the Sustainability Requirements framework developed by CPHFW. This will kick off with the BFC NEWGEN initiative in 2025, where the Minimum Standards will be embedded into the existing mandatory criteria for admission. Following an onboarding and piloting period, the full implementation will come into effect fully by January 2026.

BFC NEWGEN is the world leading designer programme which supports the best emerging fashion design talent and represents key voices in the British fashion industry. Applications are now open for highly creative designer fashion businesses that has been actively trading for less than 3 years.

Caroline Rush, Chief Executive, British Fashion Council said: "We are thrilled to align with the Copenhagen Fashion Week Sustainability Requirements across BFC NEWGEN, this builds on our existing Minimum Standards and reaffirms our commitment to driving positive change across the global fashion industry. This partnership is a significant step in ensuring that sustainability becomes integral to the future of fashion. Together, we are creating a framework that empowers emerging designer fashion businesses to lead the way and contribute tangibly to a more sustainable and responsible industry."

Cecilie Thorsmark, CEO of Copenhagen Fashion Week said:  "We are delighted to join forces with the British Fashion Council to further expand the reach of our Sustainability Requirements. This partnership not only fosters much-needed industry alignment but also underscores the unique potential of fashion weeks and councils to drive positive change within the industry. With the British Fashion Council, as an influential player in the global fashion landscape, we see a lot of potential to further amplify the impact of our collective commitment to sustainability."

This partnership is a key part of the BFC's ongoing work through its Institute of Positive Fashion (IPF). The IPF was launched as a think tank to address the fashion industry's environmental impact and aims to guide the industry toward sustainable practices, promoting climate action while serving as a platform for research, collaboration and education to accelerate positive change. 2025 marks five years of the IPF and this collaboration with CPHFW underscores the BFC's continued commitment to drive a more sustainable future. 

About the Sustainability Requirements 

The Sustainability Requirements were introduced by Copenhagen Fashion Week in close collaboration with their Knowledge Partners In Futurum and Dansk Fashion & Textile in January 2020. Since then, they have been updated during 2024 to reflect industry developments as well as changes in the EU policy landscape. The framework represents an essential part of CPHFW's sustainability strategy to drive comprehensive change in the fashion industry and was reviewed by their Advisory Board and an international panel of experts.

Since its launch, the Norwegian Fashion Hub, Oslo Runway and Berlin Fashion Week executed by Fashion Council Germany have embarked on the implementation of the Sustainability Requirements framework.

Meanwhile Copenhagen Fashion Week recently announced it had won the PETA Fashion Awards 2024, having gone fur-free. CFW has also removed wild-animal skins and feathers from the runways, reflecting its commitment to more ethical practices.⁠⁠

London Antiques Event: The Decorative Fair in Battersea Park London celebrates 40th anniversary 21-26 January 2025

The Winter Decorative Fair, the first major antiques and interiors event of the year, and London’s largest, longest-running design and arts fair now in its 40th year, when it opens doors on January 21 2025 at Evolution London in Battersea Park. 

Organisers say visitors will be greeted by 130 exhibitors on the ground floor who will be offering "an exciting array of fine and formal antiques and 20th century design alongside decorative and unusual pieces dating from the 1700s to the 1970s", adding that art and sculpture of all periods, collectable ceramics and glassware, silver, architectural and garden antiques, textiles, curios and jewellery can be found in abundance. 

The Decorative Fair Winter, running until January 26th 2025, will also welcome The London Antique Rug & Textile Art Fair, in its annual staging, with 15 specialist textile and carpet dealers showing upstairs on the mezzanine level.

The Foyer Display is The Architect’s Study, inspired by the drawings of classical architect George Saumarez Smith, whose work features in the Fair’s 2025 marketing imagery.  As shown in the photo above, the drawing was taken from the architect's Sketchbooks:  Collected Measured Drawings and Architectural Sketches. The presentation will inspire visitors with a showcase of furniture, art and objects suitable for a study, reading or office area.  All items come from dealers at the Fair and are for sale.

The Winter fair will feature a cross-section of the best antiques and period design on the market today, including furniture, lighting and mirrors as well as rugs and textiles, garden decoration, glassware, silver, ceramics, fine jewellery, folk and tribal art, vintage watches and couture. 

Seasonal favourites at the fair will also include fireplace accessories such as decorative fireguards, irons and grates; club fenders and log baskets/containers; mirrors and lighting are particularly in demand in January; cosy upholstered seating such as Howard chairs and Victorian sofas; useful occasional tables; glassware.

London retail: Louis Vuitton x Murakami Pop-Up opens in London blending retail with experience

Louis Vuitton is commemorating the 20th anniversary of its iconic collaboration with Japanese artist Takashi Murakami by reintroducing their legendary collection. This milestone is marked by the opening of a two-story pop-up store in London’s affluent Soho, running from January 9 to February 9, 2025.

Nestled in the heart of Soho, the Louis Vuitton x Murakami pop-up seamlessly combines kaleidoscopic artistry with luxury, celebrating the enduring impact of one of fashion’s most iconic partnerships.

The pop-up showcases a whimsical design inspired by Tokyo’s modular hotels, featuring black and pink colour-blocked floors that set a striking stage for more than 200 reimagined pieces. Seamlessly blending retail with experience, the store offers an archival display, a vending machine dispensing collectible gifts, a café, and a ‘care and repair’ station for vintage items.

First launched under the creative direction of designer Marc Jacobs, the collection merges Murakami’s vibrant colours and Superflat aesthetic with Louis Vuitton’s classic designs. Highlights include Monogram Multicolore rolling trunks and the Superflat Panda featured on trainers and keyrings, exemplifying the groundbreaking fusion of art and fashion.

Visitors can delve into an archival module displaying standout pieces from the original collections, such as the Eye Love Monogram and the 2003 Monogram Multicolore. Other treasures like the Monogram Dalmatien, Monogram Cerise, and Monogram Superflat are presented in flower-inspired casings as part of a bespoke exhibition.

Every purchase unlocks access to vending machines offering exclusive Murakami-designed prizes, including trading cards, stickers, and the Takashi Murakami Flower Go Walk portable game. Guests can also enjoy a film lounge outfitted with Murakami flower cushions while watching digitally enhanced Superflat animations.

The Louis Vuitton x Murakami Café adds a delectable dimension to the experience, serving baked goods and drinks in limited-edition cups and napkins adorned with Murakami’s designs. As the only café of its kind in Europe, it elevates the immersive celebration of this landmark collaboration.

Louis Vuitton x Murakami Pop-up location: 39 Brewer Street, London, W1F 9UD United Kingdom

Edited by Lucia Carpio.  Photo credit:  Louis Vuitton