Fashion Exhibition: Schiaparelli: Fashion Becomes Art to be staged at London's Victoria & Albert Museum in 2026

London's Victoria & Albert Museum (V&A) has unveiled a major exhibition to take place in 2026 : Schiaparelli: Fashion Becomes Art, - the first exhibition ever to be staged in the UK devoted entirely to the visionary Italian couturière Elsa Schiaparelli and her eponymous fashion house.

Vogue 1940; Designer Elsa Schiaparelli wearing black silk dress with crocheted collar of her own design and a turban (Photo by Fredrich BakerCondé Nast via Getty Images).

Hosted in the museum’s prestigious Sainsbury Gallery, the retrospective spans more than 200 objects, encompassing garments, accessories, jewellery, perfume bottles, fine art, furniture, archival documents, photography and theatre costume design.

Tristram Hunt, Director of the V&A, noted that the museum houses Britain’s foremost collection of Schiaparelli garments and praised the designer’s collaborations and theatrical approach as making her an ideal subject for a spectacular exhibition.

Founded in 1927 in Paris, Elsa Schiaparelli is known for revolutionising couture with her fearless imagination, irreverent humour and artistic collaborations—prompting Vogue to dub her “the nexus of fashion, art and performance”.  

'Tears' Evening dress and head veil, designed by Elsa Schiaparelli, February 1938 for Circus Collection, summer 1938. Fabric designed by Salvador Dali (c) Victoria and Albert Museum, London

Exhibition highlights will include iconic couture pieces such as the Skeleton Dress and the Tears Dress, both created in collaboration with Salvador Dalí, the surreal shoe‑hat, inspired by Dalí and now a classic of fashion fantasy, as well as accompanying artworks by Pablo Picasso, Jean Cocteau and Man Ray, underscoring Schiaparelli’s deep connections with the Surrealist movement.

Vogue 1936; Two models wearing dresses by Schiaparelli. Right: in a dark crepe with bands of gold braids down the front, over satin pajamas; Left, in a black satin with bands of rippled gold ribbons.   
(Photo by Cecil BeatonCondé Nast via Getty Images) 

Ankle-length coat of black silk jersey with facial profiles forming a rose-filled vase, Elsa Schiaparelli, Jean Cocteau and Lesage, London, 1937 (c) Victoria and Albert Museum, London.

Rare archive materials and pieces from Schiaparelli’s London branch, illuminating her impact on British couture and her personal involvement in UK clientele.  

Schiaparelli by Daniel Roseberry Long sheath gown, Matador Couture collection Haute couture fall-winter 2021–2022 Wool crepe. Gilded brass necklace adorned with rhinestones in the shape of lungs. Patrimoine Schiaparelli, Paris

The exhibition will also feature modern creations from Daniel Roseberry, creative director of Schiaparelli since 2019, whose sculptural gowns and bold aesthetic continue to reflect the founding designer's surrealist spirit.

Delphine Bellini, CEO of the House of Schiaparelli, emphasised that the exhibition celebrates Elsa’s “fearless imagination and radical vision” and highlights her enduring influence through a fusion of creativity and commerce. She commended the V&A for offering the perfect stage to showcase her legacy alongside Roseberry’s contemporary reinterpretations.

All images courtesy of Victoria and Albert Museum.

Fashion Trade Event: Copenhagen Fashion Week announces brand line up for SS25; Sinéad O'Dwyer awarded Zalando Visionary Award 2024, CPHFW NEWTALENT recipients revealed for the August edition

Copenhagen Fashion Week August 2024 edition's full lineup has been unveiled, featuring 46 brands and institutions poised to showcase their collections on the official show and presentation schedule. 

Rotate AW24 runway show at Copenhagen Fashion Week
Image by James Cochrane from CFW. 

Sinéad O'Dwyer wins the 
Zalando Visionary Award 2024

Among the highlights, Sinéad O'Dwyer has been announced as the recipient of the Zalando Visionary Award 2024, with the Irish designer's collection set to debut on the Copenhagen runway in August as part of the SS25 schedule.

The annual award is based on three pillars: creativity and design, social impact and innovation. 

Sinéad O'Dwyer has been recognised by the award jury for her innovative, joyful, and avant-garde creations that redefine the boundaries of fashion. With a unique blend of artistry and technical expertise, Sinéad O'Dwyer explores themes of identity, body positivity, and self-expression through her designs. 

As winner of the award, Sinéad O'Dwyer will receive a €50,000 prize.  For her collection presentation at Copenhagen Fashion Week in August 2024, additional support from Zalando will be provided for the show production to highlight the brand's dedication to diversity and innovation.

In addition, Copenhagen Fashion Week has revealed the designers selected for the CPHFW NEWTALENT scheme for the SS25 season. Berner Kühl joins the ranks alongside Stamm and Alectra Rothschild/MASCULINA, while Rolf Ekroth will present his third and final showcase under the scheme. Notably, Bonnetje, Sól Hansdóttir, and Stem have been recognized as CPHFW NEWTALENT One To Watch. 

Looking ahead to the SS25 season, Copenhagen Fashion Week continues to build momentum with a lineup of 46 brands and institutions confirmed for August 2024.  

The SS25 brand lineup showcases a mix of established leaders and emerging innovators, including newcomers like Berner Kühl alongside returning favorites such as A. Roege Hove, Jade Cropper, Latimmier, and Rabens Saloner. 

For the first time, the event will feature both runway shows and presentations, reflecting the evolving creative landscape of the Nordic fashion industry. This merge underscores Copenhagen Fashion Week's stature as a global leader in the fashion calendar.

With a curated selection of new names, Copenhagen Fashion Week presents a dynamic programme over four days, highlighting both Nordic talent and international vanguards. This blend further solidifies the event's international standing within the global fashion industry.  

Click HERE for full line-up.

Fashion retail: Victoria Beckham Joins Forces with Mango for Exclusive Collection Launching in April

Exciting news from Spanish retailer MANGO revealing its upcoming collaboration with British pop-star turned designer Victoria Beckham, set to debut on April 23rd both online and in stores.

The Victoria Beckham x MANGO collection coincides with MANGO's 40th anniversary celebration.  In a promotional image, Justi Ruano, Creative Director of Mango Woman, is seen alongside Victoria Beckham, hinting at the creative synergy driving this exciting venture.

This eagerly anticipated capsule collection promises to marry Beckham's signature British elegance with MANGO's contemporary flair. With fashion enthusiasts already predicting a swift sell-out, anticipation is running high.  Although Mango has not yet disclosed the price points for the collection, customers can anticipate accessibility in pricing, significantly lower than Beckham's luxury line.

This partnership, coinciding with Mango's 40th anniversary celebration, marks the latest in a series of collaborations for MANGO, previously with leading brands and talents like SIMONMILLER, Camille Charrière, and Pernille Teisbaek.  These coveted collaborations often allow high street retailers to justify price increases. Mango acknowledges that its clientele is willing to invest in high-profile collaborative pieces as well as exclusive in-house releases.

Beckham's fashion shows consistently draw significant attention during Fashion Month, regardless of the city in which they're held, so there is little doubt this collaboration will be a success.

While boasting an aesthetic that exudes sophistication, the collection promises precision tailoring with an intriguing twist, alongside flowy dresses, everyday knitwear, and a range of accompanying bags, accessories, and shoes. True to expectations, all pieces are presented in a muted colour palette, perfectly suited for an "island" vibe.

In her recent interview wth WWD, Beckham described the collection as having a subtle cheekiness while maintaining a polished appearance. Inspired by the timeless allure of the French film 'La Piscine', Beckham drew specific influence from Jane Birkin's character, embodying natural beauty, femininity, and a sense of liberation. Collaborating closely with Justi Ruano, Mango's Creative Director for women's wear, Beckham ensured that the collection authentically reflects her personal style.

Despite the relatively modest size of Victoria Beckham's label, with sales totaling £58.8 million in its latest report, her "Spice Girls" fame and prominent family name have elevated her profile far beyond what similarly-sized labels might achieve. 

It is therefore ripe to believe Mango's collaboration with Beckham promises to be a significant publicity boon for the retailer. Mango is currently enjoying a period of remarkable success, as evidenced by its record-breaking 2023 financial results unveiled just last month. Looking ahead, Mango has outlined ambitious goals in its strategic plan for 2026, aiming to reach €4 billion in revenue and open 500 additional stores.

Designer: Igor Dieryck wins the PREMIÈRE VISION GRAND JURY PRIZE at Hyères International Festival

At the 38th Hyères International Festival of Fashion, Photography and Accessories, Belgian designer Igor Dieryck was announced as the winner of the Grand Prix du Jury Première Vision, the Prix 19M Métiers d'art and the Prix du Public.  The event took place on October 15th 2023 at 100 year-old Cubist chateau-turned arts center - Villa Noailles.

"YESSIR" collection by Igor Dieryck who received support from several exhibitors of Première Vision Paris,
including Labels & Things - L&T Caps, Libeco, Beppetex and Rifra Nastri.
Photo courtesy of Première Vision

As part of his prize, the young designer's collection entitled “YESSIR” will be featured in an exhibition dedicated to him at the next edition of Première Vision Paris - one of the industry's most respected international trade fair which will take place February 6, 7 and 8 2024 at the Paris Nord Villepinte exhibition centre.

Dieryck has won prize money of 20,000 euros and also will enjoy collaborations with some of the fashion industry's top names, including an opportunity with Chanel’s Métiers d’Art division to present on the runway in Hyères next year, as well as producing two capsule collections, one with Paris fashion department store Galeries Lafayette, and another with the high-end, eco-friendly label ICICLE, which will hit stores spring of 2024.

The 24-year-old Dieryck is a graduate of the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp, Brussels and recently joined the Hermès men’s wear studio.  Inspiration for his winning collection came from his work experience at a hotel where he observed "Grand Hotel-era" life while studying for his fashion degree in Antwerp.  

Desolina Suter, Première Vision Fashion Director, comments: "We are more than delighted to welcome Igor's "Yessir" collection to Première Vision Paris in February 2024. The scenography will be directly inspired by his universe, both formal and conceptual. His creations, with their bright colours and bold aesthetic, suggest a retro ambience, providing a captivating visual experience."

As a partner of the Grand Prix du Jury since 2011, Première Vision supports the finalists in the creation and production of their collection. This year's winner Igor Dieryck also received support from several Première Vision trade exhibitors: Labels & Things - L&T Caps, Libeco, Beppetex and Rifra Nastri.

Ruggable collaborates with Monica Ahanonu

Ruggable, a patented machine-washable rug brand, has announced the launch of its new collaboration with recognised artist, illustrator, and model, Monica Ahanonu. 

The new Ruggable X Monica Ahanonu rug collection is Monica’s first venture
 into the home-design space 

The launch of the new rug collection is focused on breaking the mould of traditional home decor, according to Ruggable.

Inspired by accessible design and washable innovation, the ethos of Ruggable, Monica’s partnership with Ruggable will bring her unique passion and artistic style into the home. 

As a leader in the digital space for Black artists, Ahanonu’s art shines the limelight on diverse cultures, industries, and backgrounds encouraging inclusivity and equity. 

Ruggable noted that this collaboration pushes the limits of what is possible in design and decor, praising optimism, light, and energy. The collection is Monica’s first venture into the home-design space and includes 8 pieces, inclusive of indoor and outdoor rugs. 

Photo courtesy Ruggable X Monica Ahanonu.

British Textile Designer Set to Launch Luxury Silk Cushion Collection this April

British textile designer Millie Bridget Henry is expanding her business into homewares and will launch her first luxury silk cushion collection this spring. 

Pink Bengal Tiger Silk Cushion
by Millie Bridget Henry 

The new SS22 Collection of cushions, launching on April 11th, is titled The Wilderness, inspired by wild and natural environments on Earth that have not been significantly altered by human activity and the wild animals that roam within these surroundings, said Millie, whose designs are rich and intricate. 

Enchanted Forest Stag Silk Cushion
by Millie Bridget Henry 

The UK-made cushions measuring 45cm x 45cm are in 100% Silk, and feature navy cotton velvet backing & piping, while they also come with sustainably-sourced feather-filled inner cushion pads. 

Leopard Silk Cushion by Millie Bridget Henry

According to Millie, the design process begins in her studio in Buckinghamshire, whereshe  takes inspiration from her photographic archive, mood-boards and research that have inspired the collections. She will then bring all of her drawings together creating a linear design, which is then coloured digitally. The designs are then printed onto the finest luxury fabric and finished to the highest standard.

Millie graduated from the Winchester School of Art in 2010, specialising in Textile Print Design. After graduating, Millie interned at various fashion houses before deciding to travel in 2012. Upon her return she moved to London and started work at Huntsman-bespoke tailors - on Savile Row and found her love for Men’s accessories. In 2016 she started work at Buckingham Palace with a team of conservators providing a conservation service to the Royal Collection. 

An internship at Zandra Rhodes in 2017 put Millie firmly on the path to setting up her own design studio. The brand was launched in 2018 with a collection of men’s luxury pocket squares. Since then, Millie has launched a range of men’s accessories which are stocked in many west end ateliers such as Budd, Benson & Clegg, Mason & Sons, Caroline Andrews and Montague Ede.   

Blackbuck Navy Silk Cushion
by Millie Bridget Henry

Speaking about her journey to launching her new collections in homeware, the young designer says, “The last two years have been incredibly difficult for everyone but as a small business in the early years since inception it was extremely disheartening. There have been days I wanted to give up, but I kept pushing and wanted to spend the extra time during lockdown to find ways to expand the business and take it to the next level. I’m really excited to be expanding into homeware and working on a variety of products for the future.”

All imagess courtesy of Millie Bridget Henry.

MOOHONG SS 2020 collection interplays between femininity and masculinity.

The MOOHONG Spring/Summer 2020 collection by Seoul designer Moohong Kim shown this week in Paris shines a light on his knack for tailoring – classic menswear tailoring even, developing from a study in structural form versus deconstruction possibilities and explore a range of possibilities in asymmetrical cuts. 

Although the collection has been described as an “inter-subjective experiment to create an ideological project which incorporates fashion as a means of artistic and social expression”, it is a very wearable range inter-playing the contrast between femininity and masculinity.  

Using  multiple shapes, the collection is built on a layering and transformative format, which answers very well to today’s consumers’  affinity with personalisation and individualism. 

Moohong uses classic menswear fabrics such as wool for his oversized jackets and exaggerated pin-striped suits and tailored separates, along with cotton shirts and silks, accented with folds, drapery and asymmetry.

Anabela Chan's jewellery are objects of desire

London-based Anabela Chan may not be a household name yet, but her deliciously sumptuous and enchanting and exquisitely hand-made jewellery are  already counted among red-carpet favourites for A-list celebrities, the likes of Lady Gaga, Rita Ora and FKA Twigs.

Using a gamut of precious and semi-precious stones as well as sustainable and ethical laboratory-grown gemstones, Anabela's main focus are in the intricate workmanship that bring out best of the myriad of colours.

Anabela's designs are bold with a sense of drama but many are like miniature sculptures, or pieces of artwork.

Dancing butterflies fluttering around blossoms with a dangling tear-drop diamond for a pair of romantic earrings, or a magical setting of a butterfly resting on a bouquet of orchards for a ring.

Diamonds may appear as clusters of stars or floating in space in her Constellation range, while in the Couture Jewellery collection, Anabela takes you on a mythical journey into a paradise garden borrowing features from nature: fern leaves, butterflies and beetles for a necklace, ear-cuffs, brooch and bracelet.

Originally trained as an architect, Anabela's flagship boutique in London is situated just a stone's throw from the buzzling Piccadilly Circus, but quietly tucked in the discrete courtyard of Ham Yard Village on Denman Place on the doorstep of Ham Yard Hotel.

Designed like a curiosity shop decorated with glass jars to showcase the jewellery, adorned with objets d'art and taxidermy specimens, the shop is uniquely enchanting for the discerning lady in search of something magical.

Anabela was born into 3 generations of film directors and cinematographers, having grown up in London and Paris, and trained at the world-renowned Royal College of Art and Gemmological Association of Great Britain.

According to her CV,  Anabela had worked with iconic architect Lord Richard Rogers and Fashion Designer Alexander McQueen in London for 7 years before returning to jewellery to launch her eponymous label in 2013 and opening her London boutique in November 2014.

While happy to accept commission work, one of Anabela's recent special projects are couture hand-embroidered one-of-a-kind cushions produced in collaboration with her friend Mane Virdee.  Note the glittering list of materials used for this collaboration:- crystal and glass beads, metallic gold and silver embroidery threads, hand dyed cotton and silk threads, velvet as shown on the kaleidoscope-like pattern formed on the cushion in the picture above with the help of Emily Gore who works for Anabela Chan.

To date, Anabela has won many international design awards:-
British Goldsmiths’ Craftsmanship and Design Awards in Fine Jewellery, Platinum Jewellery 2012, 2013
Gemmological Association of Great Britain Award 2012
Studio William Cutlery Design Gold Award 2012
Sponsored by Swarovski 2012, 2013
ITS Finalist 2012, 2013
Vogue VFDE New Talent Award 2014

Anabela Chan is London's best kept secret no more.

All photos © Lucia Carpio 2017 

London's Textile Council names Carlo Volpi their new member

Texprint, the London-based charity that nurtures, supports and promotes UK textile design graduates and organises an annual competition for new talent, has announced that one of their alumni - Italian knitwear designer Carlo Volpi - as the newest member on the Texprint Council which meets twice yearly to monitor and review how the charity is performing against its aims an objectives.

Volpi, who was a Texprint designer himself in 2012, loves vibrant clashes of colour, creative stitches and textures.  According to Texprint, there is a joyous and celebratory element to his work, describing Volpi's work as upbeat, exuberant, happy.    Barbara Kennington, honorary chairman of Texprint, says: “Carlo is such an original talent. We’re delighted he brings his energy and passion to the Texprint Council.”

Every year, Texprint invites one alumnus to present his or her work at the entrance to the Texprint London Preview event.  Carlo Volpi was the designer of choice for  the 2017 event held in July.

Volpi has already achieved wide ranging success.  While working to build his own label, he also collaborates with leading brands, and is a consultant for the Research Area at Pitti Filati. 

Among his recent achievements was winning first prize in the prestigious Who Is On Next? Uomo competition, promoted by Vogue Italia and Pitti Immagine (Italy's fashion trade fair organisers). 

The judges highlighted his “marked technical and innovative skill combined with a brilliant interpretation of Italian manufacturing traditions in a unique knitwear project with an international look.”

Vogue Italia raved about Volpi’s Autumn/Winter 17/18 collection, calling it “totally wild – a concentrate of youthful enthusiasm.” Volpi commented “My point of reference is irreverence. I am interested in the parameters we use to define what we consider attractive or ugly.”

All photos © Lucia Carpio 2017.