MOOHONG SS 2020 collection interplays between femininity and masculinity.

The MOOHONG Spring/Summer 2020 collection by Seoul designer Moohong Kim shown this week in Paris shines a light on his knack for tailoring – classic menswear tailoring even, developing from a study in structural form versus deconstruction possibilities and explore a range of possibilities in asymmetrical cuts. 

Although the collection has been described as an “inter-subjective experiment to create an ideological project which incorporates fashion as a means of artistic and social expression”, it is a very wearable range inter-playing the contrast between femininity and masculinity.  

Using  multiple shapes, the collection is built on a layering and transformative format, which answers very well to today’s consumers’  affinity with personalisation and individualism. 

Moohong uses classic menswear fabrics such as wool for his oversized jackets and exaggerated pin-striped suits and tailored separates, along with cotton shirts and silks, accented with folds, drapery and asymmetry.

Anabela Chan's jewellery are objects of desire

London-based Anabela Chan may not be a household name yet, but her deliciously sumptuous and enchanting and exquisitely hand-made jewellery are  already counted among red-carpet favourites for A-list celebrities, the likes of Lady Gaga, Rita Ora and FKA Twigs.

Using a gamut of precious and semi-precious stones as well as sustainable and ethical laboratory-grown gemstones, Anabela's main focus are in the intricate workmanship that bring out best of the myriad of colours.

Anabela's designs are bold with a sense of drama but many are like miniature sculptures, or pieces of artwork.

Dancing butterflies fluttering around blossoms with a dangling tear-drop diamond for a pair of romantic earrings, or a magical setting of a butterfly resting on a bouquet of orchards for a ring.

Diamonds may appear as clusters of stars or floating in space in her Constellation range, while in the Couture Jewellery collection, Anabela takes you on a mythical journey into a paradise garden borrowing features from nature: fern leaves, butterflies and beetles for a necklace, ear-cuffs, brooch and bracelet.

Originally trained as an architect, Anabela's flagship boutique in London is situated just a stone's throw from the buzzling Piccadilly Circus, but quietly tucked in the discrete courtyard of Ham Yard Village on Denman Place on the doorstep of Ham Yard Hotel.

Designed like a curiosity shop decorated with glass jars to showcase the jewellery, adorned with objets d'art and taxidermy specimens, the shop is uniquely enchanting for the discerning lady in search of something magical.

Anabela was born into 3 generations of film directors and cinematographers, having grown up in London and Paris, and trained at the world-renowned Royal College of Art and Gemmological Association of Great Britain.

According to her CV,  Anabela had worked with iconic architect Lord Richard Rogers and Fashion Designer Alexander McQueen in London for 7 years before returning to jewellery to launch her eponymous label in 2013 and opening her London boutique in November 2014.

While happy to accept commission work, one of Anabela's recent special projects are couture hand-embroidered one-of-a-kind cushions produced in collaboration with her friend Mane Virdee.  Note the glittering list of materials used for this collaboration:- crystal and glass beads, metallic gold and silver embroidery threads, hand dyed cotton and silk threads, velvet as shown on the kaleidoscope-like pattern formed on the cushion in the picture above with the help of Emily Gore who works for Anabela Chan.

To date, Anabela has won many international design awards:-
British Goldsmiths’ Craftsmanship and Design Awards in Fine Jewellery, Platinum Jewellery 2012, 2013
Gemmological Association of Great Britain Award 2012
Studio William Cutlery Design Gold Award 2012
Sponsored by Swarovski 2012, 2013
ITS Finalist 2012, 2013
Vogue VFDE New Talent Award 2014

Anabela Chan is London's best kept secret no more.

All photos © Lucia Carpio 2017 

London's Textile Council names Carlo Volpi their new member

Texprint, the London-based charity that nurtures, supports and promotes UK textile design graduates and organises an annual competition for new talent, has announced that one of their alumni - Italian knitwear designer Carlo Volpi - as the newest member on the Texprint Council which meets twice yearly to monitor and review how the charity is performing against its aims an objectives.

Volpi, who was a Texprint designer himself in 2012, loves vibrant clashes of colour, creative stitches and textures.  According to Texprint, there is a joyous and celebratory element to his work, describing Volpi's work as upbeat, exuberant, happy.    Barbara Kennington, honorary chairman of Texprint, says: “Carlo is such an original talent. We’re delighted he brings his energy and passion to the Texprint Council.”

Every year, Texprint invites one alumnus to present his or her work at the entrance to the Texprint London Preview event.  Carlo Volpi was the designer of choice for  the 2017 event held in July.

Volpi has already achieved wide ranging success.  While working to build his own label, he also collaborates with leading brands, and is a consultant for the Research Area at Pitti Filati. 

Among his recent achievements was winning first prize in the prestigious Who Is On Next? Uomo competition, promoted by Vogue Italia and Pitti Immagine (Italy's fashion trade fair organisers). 

The judges highlighted his “marked technical and innovative skill combined with a brilliant interpretation of Italian manufacturing traditions in a unique knitwear project with an international look.”

Vogue Italia raved about Volpi’s Autumn/Winter 17/18 collection, calling it “totally wild – a concentrate of youthful enthusiasm.” Volpi commented “My point of reference is irreverence. I am interested in the parameters we use to define what we consider attractive or ugly.”

All photos © Lucia Carpio 2017.