Happy Easter!

UK Easter gift spending expected to be worth £590m this year.  Brits top the global chocolate eating charts, according to Mintel .  Just Love these decorated Viennese-style chocolate eggs available at The Delaunay Counter.

Happy Easter everyone.  
Hope you’ll all be eating a lot of chocolates during the holidays, and rightfully so, you will be in good company.

According to Mintel Global New Products Database (GNPD), there has been a delicious 23% rise in Easter chocolate launches over the past year* providing a plethora of chocolate choice for Easter egg hunts across the globe.

The countries leading the way in Easter chocolate innovation include Brazil, which accounted for 11% of global Easter chocolate product launches in 2017, followed by the UK, South Africa, Germany (each with a 10% share) and France (9%).

However, it seems no one loves chocolate quite as much as the Brits across the globe. The average Brit devoured 8.4 kg worth of chocolate in 2017.  Hot on the heels of the Brits, Switzerland consumed 8.3kg, closely followed by Germany at 8.2kg.  Within the top 10 chocolate per capita consumers, Russia experienced the biggest increase at 2.2%; meanwhile, Austria reported the sharpest decline at -1.9%.

Reflecting the importance of seasonal products as a whole, in 2017, almost a quarter (23%) of global chocolate launches were positioned as seasonal, such as Christmas, Easter, Valentine’s Day and Halloween.

Overall, the US and Germany lead in terms of total chocolate new product development (NPD), each accounting for 8% of new product launches in 2017. This is followed by France (7%), the UK (5%) and Brazil (4%).

Marcia Mogelonsky, Director of Insight, Mintel Food and Drink, said:“Easter represents one of those ‘permissible indulgence’ moments where consumers enjoy giving and receiving chocolate treats. The holiday also marks a time for increased innovation in confectionery as consumers seek new and novel products. In the UK, for example, Easter eggs flavoured with beer or stout, which were the rage in past years, have given way to new alternatives such as gin-and-tonic flavoured eggs. In Germany, the introduction of vegan Easter bunnies and eggs reflects the growing popularity of a plant-based diet in that country.”

Tom Dixon among iconic British brands to set up flagship in Coal Drop Yard, King's Cross London

Coal Drop Yard on Granary Square, in the heart of the regenerated King’s Cross of London is deemed to be the most trendy shopping destination in the capital when it opens in October 2018.

In Victorian London, the capital was powered by coal, and Coal Drops Yard was its coal store, “designed to handle the eight million tonnes of coal delivered to the capital each year, these extraordinary structures were a feat of Victorian engineering,” according to the King’s Cross website.
Thanks to Heatherwick Studio, Coal Drops Yard has retailed its brick viaducts, cobbled streets and rich ironwork.
Photo © Lucia Carpio 2018.

King's Cross station. Photo © Lucia Carpio 2018

To-date, a number of leading British fashion and lifestyle brands and international luminaries have announced they will be moving or are setting up flagships there.

This April, internationally renowned British design brand Tom Dixon Studio will plant its latest and most ambitious flag yet, in the heart of King's Cross and will contribute to an ever expanding network of creatives and technologists from the likes of Central St. Martins and LVMH to Google and Spiritland.

Other notable British brands setting up retail there include Paul Smith , Lost Property of London, Cheaney, Form & Thread and Universal works, attracted to the cobbled street and Victorian red bricks of the industrial Coal Drop Yard, will is intermixed with contemporary architecture of the surrounding office blocks and desirable residential buildings.

Photo from Tom Dixon.

Against this industrial backdrop, The Coal Office will be Tom Dixon’s new home for its latest multi-disciplinary experiments, innovations and collaborations, functioning as a live Studio combining shop, workshop and office all under one roof, with the culinary delights of a brand-new restaurant and roof terrace.

A selection of the latest products by TOM DIXON.

Photo from Tom Dixon.

Tom Dixon says: 'For us it was imperative not just to find a new office or shop. It was vital to find a new home. London isn't just another city. It is where it all started. We will use these 17,500 square feet in this incredible location as a platform to broadcast our latest ideas in interior design, product innovation and experiments in food, functionality and future living.'

In Victorian London, the city was powered by coal, and Coal Drops Yard was its coal store, “designed to handle the eight million tonnes of coal delivered to the capital each year, these extraordinary structures were a feat of Victorian engineering,” according to the King’s Cross website.

Glorious lace at Christopher Kane's AW 2018-19 and from the House of Darquer in France

Lace has been part of European fashion for a very long time, and remains as relevant today as it was centuries ago.

Recently in the February 2018 edition of London Fashion Week, lace was featured profusely in British designer Christopher Kane’s Autumn/Winter 2018-19 collection.

Reflecting the interior strength of the Christopher Kane Girl with an external display of power, the collection evolved from last season to become less cheeky and more subversive this season.

“It's about strength of character shown by the strength of the clothes. It all started with the illustrations from The Joy of Sex and More Joy of Sex, by Chris Foss and Charles Raymond. They're both a textbook study and a sensuous display of line drawing, almost in 'coffee table book' form that's both weird and really everyday. All of which always intrigues me,” says the talented Christopher Kane.





Catwalk Source & Images from Christopher Kane



Meanwhile at the Premiere Vision Paris textile fair also in February, French lace house Darquer showcased their latest lace creations for the congregating fashion industry.  Designer Frédéric Ruminy’s latest on offer includes beautiful lace in two tones, also lace made with denim effect as well as lace in cotton blended with cashmere to lovely results.

The "Millennium" collections includes a selection of white & black lace designs, evocative of the heritage of Maison Darquer, while among its heritage are the highly sophisticated Chantilly lace that have stood the test of time.

Darquer was established in 1840 in Calais, and is the oldest and most renowned lace company in France. In this regard, it has an exceptional collection of lace samples of all styles and periods.

Today, Maison DARQUER is very much a modern company as it continues to develop a wide range of services to meet the needs of today's markets with a new “See now Buy Now” website for immediate delivery.

Maison DARQUER is very much a modern company as it continues to develop a wide range of services to meet the needs of today's markets with a new “See now Buy Now” website for designers to choose designs, place orders and for immediate delivery.

Darquer lace photos by Lucia Carpio.

Darquer opened its Paris showroom in 2017, in a former 18th century private mansion Hotel de Vibraye, classified as an historic monument, on 15 rue Vielle du Temple in the 4th arrondissement.

The showroom features the entire collection  of its famous 7 points Chantilly lace  as well as the novelties, Cornely, Beyroux and "hand made embroideries  ".  It is also possible for buyers and fashion designers to develop their own made to measure patterns using Dacquer designs as starting point.

Pictured right,  at the 2017 Cannes Film Festival, fashion model Sara Sampaio wears a sexy creation by  Francesco Scognamiglio realized with an  evanescsente lace from Maison Darquer.

Showroom and Cannes Film Festival photos from Dacquer.

SEAQUAL ™ - The fibre created from marine plastic waste

While products made of plastics have penetrated all areas of our lives, from toys to household and kitchen items to packaging and many, many more, today sadly, much of plastics are also found discarded in the sea or washed up on shores and beaches, and plastic pollution affects marine life, eco systems and even our health. 

While recent research reveals that plastic at sea turns into toxic fish food and harm marine life and the environment, plastics floating in the oceanic accumulation zones, known as ‘garbage patches’, carry chemical pollutants whose levels seem high enough to pose a health risk to organisms that ingest them.  It is also estimated that 8 million tonnes a year of detritus end up as sea sludge, 80% of which sinks to the bottom.

Recognising that urgent action is required quickly to tackle marine plastics pollution, a Spanish company of textile fibres has recently unveiled its commitments to initiate a new eco-friendly yarns called SEAQUAL ™ filament yarn made out of plastic waste retrieved from the ocean.

From plastic waste to filament yarns.
Photo © Lucia Carpio 2018

Seaqual 4U’s ingenious plan is to dredge then upcycle plastics from the bottom of the sea and turn them into fibres and yarns.  The company partners with some 400 fishing boats off Spanish coasts that help it to collect the plastic waste.

The company has thus set up a virtuous chain involving various stakeholders in the textile industry including spinners, weavers and brands.

To read in full, click HERE.

Roberto Cavalli Autumn/Winter 2018 interplays strength and fragility for women and men.

British designer Paul Surridge’s Autumn/Winter 2018 collection – his second for the Italian fashion house Roberto Cavalli - explores the interplay between men and women.

He explains in a recent interview before the catwalk show at Milan Fashion Week in February that the collection was inspired by Sharon Stone’s character, Catherine Tramell, in Basic Instinct, it is also a celebration of the timeless codes of Roberto Cavalli, featuring patterns borrowed from the animal world, including leopard prints and others derived from lynx, lizard and crocodile with furs and exotic skins.

While the silhouettes are emphatic, Surridge shows off his knack for tailoring with artfully cut jackets and coats and trousers for his and hers. 

Look for stretch wools, silks and clinging evening knit dresses with feather patterns in streamline silhouettes, contrasting with billowing chiffons, flirtatious drapes and transparent bouclé.

Denim becomes precious, keyed with embroidery or used as a palette for tailoring in fine wool or luxurious crocodile and python skins.

Other colours speak simultaneously of luxury and strength - violet, scarlet and graphic black.

With a strong focus on Italian artisanship, there are superlative working of leather, beading and embroideries and inspiration drawn from the ombréd surfaces of Murano glass, colouring chiffon dresses and tailored separates. An interplay between strength and fragility.

Menswear plays with the same codes - leathers, denims, animalier - but reinterpreted through a masculine idiom. Finely tailored overcoats combined with the sensuality of silky shirts and leather, atop a strongly-chiselled ankle-boot in polished leather or savage crocodile.

Information source and Images: Cavalli

Tactile leather and skins showcased at Premiere Vision Paris Leather Fair

So often we see signs to remind us not to touch any of the exhibits on display when we visit a gallery or exhibition.  But when you have materials that are provocative with interesting surfaces and novel textures, tactile encounters between exhibit and visitor should be encouraged.  And that was the case at the Premiere Vision Paris Leather Fair, February 12 – 14 at Villepinte, Parc des Expositions in Paris.

Cutting-edge leathers, suede and skins showcased at the trade fair revealed that leather trends for the Spring Summer 2019 fashion season combine ingenuity with clever and playful developments.

And what better way to explore the myriad of ingenue quality than by touching the materials to get a sense of the new novelties through touch.

Much of the new developments have been influenced by the animal kingdom, from python and crocodile skins to furry pelts, highlighting prints and embossed patterning, and shiny surfaces, giving fresh insights on contemporary creations.  

Photo © Lucia Carpio 2018

BRAND NEW Star Wars™ | Po-Zu footwear announced

Building on the successful launch of the Star Wars™ Po-Zu co-branded footwear collaboration last year,  British eco-footwear brand Po-Zu - known for their environmental and Vegan-friendly footwear made with ORGANIC cotton and Pinatex (PINEAPPLE leaf-fibre) - has announced the launch of their first  Spring – Summer 2018 footwear collection for women & men.

The new Star Wars™ Po-Zu co-branded range is expanded with the addition of a vegan-friendly ‘RESISTANCE Lo’ low-cut organic cotton canvas sneaker with a metal Rebel Alliance badge at the ankle and the famous Po-Zu Foot Mattress™ in sole for comfort.

Joining the sneaker range: the women’s SQUADRON slip-on, which features an elasticated top panel, metal Rebel Alliance badge and ribbed heel counter in metallic silver Pinatex with metallic linen, are lined with organic cotton and in tune with a huge VEGAN trend in footwear.  The full Star Wars™ | Po-Zu range includes many Vegan-friendly designs alongside traditional leather boots.

Sven Segel, Founder of Po-Zu, commented that he is thrilled to continue "with their galactic ride for the second season."  He said: “I was truly inspired by the Star Wars: The Last Jedi and the new characters – and love fusing sustainable materials into some of these timeless pieces."

It’s International Women’s Day. Let’s celebrate the return to Power Dressing, Sonia Rykiel style.

The return of Power Dressing to the Woman. 
 Julie de Libran Artistic Director of Sonia Rykiel presented Autumn-Winter 2018-19 at Paris Fashion Week honouring the spirit of the late iconic Parisian designer Sonia Rykiel: “a spirit that encouraged women to live their lives creatively, individually, and out loud 
– and that includes me,” says de Libran.
The indomitable spirit of self-expression through fashion fuelled the establishment of Sonia Rykiel’s eponymous label fifty years ago, and it continues with Julie de Libran today.
Source and Photo: Sonia Rykiel.

Sonia Rykiel presented Autumn-Winter 2018-19 at Paris Fashion Week.
The artistic director explores the idea of a new Parisienne, a woman at one with the attitude and style of a city but who ultimately goes beyond it.

Sonia Rykiel Autumn-Winter 2018-19 

Above and below: Sonia Rykiel Autumn-Winter 2018-19 

Women are smarter shoppers than men, says relationship marketing platform, Optimove

According to new data, women save on average more than 7 per cent due to preferencing discounted items, according to relationship marketing platform Optimove’s new research, revealing that although women make 2.5 per cent more orders than men, their purchases are less expensive.

"women are without a doubt the savviest shoppers"

Roni Cohen, Data Science Team Leader, comments: “In the world of retail there has been a longstanding assumption that women will pay more than men, and with many retailers recently sticking a higher price tag on Valentine’s cards addressed to “husbands”, it is clear that this notion still exists.

“However, research from Optimove demonstrates that this is far from the truth. In fact, women are without a doubt the savviest shoppers, favouring discounts and remaining loyal to retailers which increases their chance of personalised rewards.       

Roni continues: “Retailers can best serve their female demographic by offering discounts up to 30 per cent – as women are found to buy in larger quantities than men, but typically spend less, offering this reduction aligns well with smart shopping habits and encourages brand loyalty.

“Our research highlights that women are more likely to return to the same retailer after their first purchase. But this shouldn’t be taken as gospel - if retailers want to retain their female customers, they must give them a reason to stay loyal.

“Engaging female customers with personalised offers and rewards, such as birthday gift vouchers or offering free delivery as part of a VIP service, is a great way to provide the treatment they deserve. If customers aren’t treated exceptionally - regardless of gender - they will inevitably go elsewhere.”

Sonia Rykiel Autumn-Winter 2018-19 

Fashion source and photos: Sonia Rykiel

Ethiopia, along with a host of international manufacturers met European companies at Paris Apparel Sourcing Fair

For regular attendees of Messe Frankfurt Paris’ group of trade shows in Paris: Apparel Sourcing – held February 11 – 14 2018, they were greeted by the more familiar manufacturers from China and Hong Kong, India, Turkey, Pakistan and Bangladesh, where a choice of prime contractors and clothing manufacturers were familiar with the customs and practices of supplying to European fashion labels.

What’s new this February edition was the addition of a number of emerging markets, including Ethiopia, Pakistan, Myanmar, Jordan and Kyrgyzstan to promote their manufacturing capabilities and products.

Michael Scherpe, Président of organiser Messe Frankfurt France, described the congregation of different nations was similar to the Winter Olympics held concurrently in Pyeongcheng, Korea, during a press conference.  

Ethiopia was the guest country of honour this season, presenting eight companies offering varying  skills and textile products for the European market, including 100% organic cotton, dyes based on coffee or wine.  A selection of their fashion was also paraded on catwalk at the trade fair.

Camillo Calami, director of bag company Village Industry, ummed up the general feeling shared among the Ethiopians: “Visitors to the trade fair were targeted exceedingly well. We met those we were hoping to see, tending towards European brands. We spoke with a great number of French and Spanish visitors as well as those from the UK, Germany and Holland. We made some very interesting contacts from various sectors:- fashion labels, consultants for sourcing and even retail chains!”

Leading the pavilion was His Excellency Dr Bekele Bulado, who introduced various development programmes for the textiles and clothing industry in their country at a press conference.  The Ethiopian entourage included  the Honourable Bogale FelekeState Minister at the Ministry of Industry  and Mr Fitsum Arega, Director General of the Ethiopian Investment Commission.  

The Ethiopian pavilion was organised in conjunction with the German agency for international cooperation GIZ (Gesellschaft fûr Internationale Zusammenarbeit).  

The Asian country of Myanmar (formerly Burma) also brought eight garment companies to the fair and had met with trade visitors from Europe as well as the US.

In addition there were eight Kyrgyzstan companies, and their participation had been supported by the American USAID programme. 

Photos © Lucia Carpio 2018

Jordanian garment factory employs Syrian refugees for exports

Life as we know it today is filled with modern technology to help us cope with our daily functions and enhance our well-being.  But at the same time, in many parts of the world today, the basic needs of life are threatened by war, poverty and hunger. 

Oryana Awaisheh, executive manager of Jerash Garments
and Fashion Manufacturing of Jordan, shows off sportswear
made with the help of Syrian refugees.
Photo © Lucia Carpio 2018

While visiting textile and garment industry trade fairs recently I found an abundance of the latest wearable technology and was also pleased to find garment companies that are offering hope to those in despair.

One such company is the Jerash Garments & Fashions Manufacturing Company, a factory in Jordan which has 2,800 employees and is one of the pioneering companies that has been part of an aid programme to train refugees from Syria to manufacture garments in its facilities.

The international aid programme offers Jordan concessional loans and preferential trade terms in return for opening its labour market to some of the estimated 1.3 million refugees who fled there during the war in Syria.

I met Ms Oryana Awaisheh, executive manager of Jerash in Paris at the Texworld group of trade events, notably Apparel Sourcing, which along with Avantex, Shawls&Scarves, Texworld and Texworld Denim Paris was held at Le Bourget in north Paris, 11 – 14 February where 18 different countries had converged to showcase their latest on offer to the garment and textile industry.  Michael Scherpe, Président of fair organiser Messe Frankfurt France, likened the congregation of different nations to the Winter Olympics held concurrently in Pyeongcheng, Korea.

Jordan was one of the countries that participated in the Texworld / Apparel Sourcing
fair in Le Bourget, Paris, February 11 - 14, 2018/
Photo © Lucia Carpio 2018 

Ms Awaisheh of Jerash in Jordan explained that the aid programme to help Syrian refugees had been trying in the beginning because few Syrians wanted to work in factories where the pay was not as high as other industries.

Finally in June last year, the International Labour Organisation (ILO) brought in new rules and the factory could qualify to export to the EU tariff-free by meeting the Syrian worker quota on a single production line, rather than the whole factory.  

Encouraged, Awaisheh visited refugee camps to meet women (as the garment sector hires a largely female workforce) and also attended job fairs, and invited refugees to tour the factory.  She then set up a daycare centre and arranged transport to facilitate the refugees' participation.  Eventually after a few months, Awaisheh was able to recruit 85 female workers to work in the factory and thus qualify for export to Europe.

Established 18 years ago, the vertically set-up Jerash’s main export market is the US, at 1.8 Billion USD in 2017, and it also has Free Trade Agreement with Canada, the EU (including Norway, and Switzerland), Singapore, Turkey and countries in the gulf region.

The company is accredited and compliance approved to make for established sportswear brands, including North Face, Columbia, Land’s End, North Face, Nautica, Timberland as well as for Philip-Van Heusen which owns Calvin Klein, Tommy Hilfiger, IZOD and Speedo.  Its workforce include workers from Sri Lanka, India, Bangladesh, Myanmar, Nepal in addition to Syria.

The participation of Jordanian companies at the February 2018 edition of Apparel Sourcing, was supported by Mr Hassan Nsour, who is responsible for Qualifying Industrial Zones at the Ministry for Industry and Trade, in association with the World Bank integrated-programme for Syrian refugees. Mr Adel Tawileh, board member at the Jordanian Chamber of Commerce, said they met their main goal of the fair, meeting fashion labels and also independent designers, who were mainly from Europe.   He said, “Our firms were especially surprised by the success of the uniform & workwear segment, men’s suits and women’s clothing with Middle Eastern embroidery.”

UK's International Trade Department stages Festival of Innovations in Hong Kong - March 21-24 2018

If someone says to you that the world is now run by Asia, you have little reason to doubt it.  After the Winter Olympic Games in PyeongCheng, Korea, the next Summer Olympics will take place in Tokyo, Japan, followed by the 2022 Winter Olympics in Beijing, China.

Hong Kong's iconic shoreline and picturesque harbour. 
Fashion, textiles and footwear are top exports for the UK with Hong Kong and China in the top 20 destinations buying UK goods.  The fashion industry is worth over £28 billion to the UK economy.
Photo © Lucia Carpio 2018

In the world of luxury fashion, one of China’s biggest textile firms Shandong Ruyi Investment Holding recently snapped up leather brand Bally to add on to its stable of luxury fashion brands (including SMCP and Aquascutum) and add impetus to its plan for  accelerate global growth.  Then there came the news that the bidding contest for French fashion brand Lanvin was won by Fosun International, a Chinese group controlled by Shanghai billionaire Guo Guangchang with interests in insurance, trading and many other businesses including French holiday operator Club Med and knitwear band St. John in the United States.

Hong Kong the port of call for UK's Department of International Trade in March 21 - 24, 2018.
Photo © Lucia Carpio 2018

Now amidst its ongoing Brexit saga, and its government’s insistence of great opportunity for trade deals outside the EU market, UK’s Department for International Trade (DIT) announced that its new project: “Great Festival Of Innovations” will take place in Hong Kong on 21-24 March.

It will enable the sharing of innovations that will drive the future of free trade and build life-long partnerships, according to the DIT, and delegates will learn how the worlds of fashion, luxury goods and retailing are set to change for consumers in the future.

The festival is designed as an opportunity to showcase the UK as one of the world’s best places to visit, study, invest in and do business, said DIT, offering a series of thought-provoking and lively keynotes, masterclasses, showcases, installations and performances over four days, involving industry leaders, entrepreneurs, artists, educationalists, futurologists to an audience from the UK, Hong Kong, China, Japan, South Korea and wider region.

Fashion and retailing sessions announced so far include Fashion Through the Looking Glass, examining how digital influencers are transforming the style and beauty industries; New Destinations: Culture and Commerce, exploring how arts organisations and retailers will draw in visitors in the future; and Beyond Luxury, a look at the switch from exclusive branded product towards authentic experience.

Minister of State for Trade and Export Promotion, Baroness Fairhead said: “DIT is helping the best of British fashion brands showcase their top quality items to growing markets around the world.

“Exports of fashion goods grew 6% last year and, as an international economic department, we are now expanding support for UK designers through the Exporting is GREAT campaign and our network of international advisers.”

For full information if interested in participating, click HERE.