Baselworld 2017 concluded successfully but in 2018 the fair duration will be shortened.

Baselworld 2017, the prestigious fair for premium watchmaking and jewellery brands held in the city centre of Basel, Switzerland from 23 to 30 March, had successfully concluded, registering 106,000 trade visitors from more than 100 countries to preview the latest on offer from 1,300 exhibitors representing 40 counties.

Although the attendance numbers were 4% less than last year, it was set against a challenging market marked by economic and political uncertainties on the international front.

The fair for premium watchmaking and jewellery brands celebrated its hundred years' anniversary this year, and is regarded as a trendsetting event for the global market.   It is equally important for producers and brands as for retailers and buyers for it presented an opportunty to exchange industry views, discover and explore new creations and innovations.

Willie Hamilton, Chief Executive of the Master Jewellers, UK, said, "for the UK independent retailer, it is a chance to see and buy the latest watch trends, view new jewellery brands and buy precious gemstones.  It offers a chance to network with the most important players of the industry."

Inaugurated this year was the new “Les Ateliers” space in Hall 1.2 that featured 40 independent watchmaking brands exhibiting their latest offering in an open and welcoming space, laid out in such a way that the stands reflected the daring nature of the creations being presented. In similar vein, both renowned designers and the new kids on the block in the jewellery world enjoyed a dedicated space known as the Design Lab.

As the market today is constantly evolving, watchmakers and jewellers have to work relentlessly to keep up with social changes, according to industry experts. While the priority focus remains the products themselves, much energy has gone into rethinking the entire value chain, from design and price positioning to distribution.

In response to the latest consumer trends, which increasingly lean towards online shopping, industry experts pointed out that brands now have to be able to stock products that are immediately available, and to regularly renew their collections.   In terms of positioning, they also need to be able to offer a range of price points.


As a result, even the most prestigious brands now sell entry-level timepieces at more affordable prices, equipped with simpler complications, or in steel, for example, rather than gold or platinum.

There were 220 Swiss brands in the exhibition this year, compared to merely 29 Swiss watchmaking and jewellery brands in the first ever show in 1917,  and today watchmaking remains a important export earner for Switzerland, it being its third largest behind pharmaceutical and chemicals and the machinery industry.

In the face of a challenging market marked by  a strong Swiss franc, and the economic and political uncertainties on the international front, Swiss watch exports have suffered a slowdown in the last two years.  Nevertheless, Swiss watch exports finished 2016 with sales of CHF 19.4 billion, almost double the figures of the early 2000s, according to official figures.

Baselworld 2018 will take place 22 to 27 March 2018.

Next year, Baselworld 2018 will be held for a shorter period of time, from March 22 - 27 , that is six instead of eight days in total.  According to Sylvie Ritter, Managing Director of Baselworld, the industry is going through a challenging phase, affecting particularly small companies.  "Listening to our exhibitors and in agreement with the members of the different Committees, we have decided to reduce the duration of the show and make adjustments.  Baselworld will maintain the attractiveness of the show and its global impact by remaining faithful to our strategy which favours quality and leverages diversity in all sectors," said Ms Ritter.

All photos from Baselworld 2017.

Collaboration between two UK brands for satchels and bikes launched this month.

Two of UK's best known lifestyle brands for leather bags and bicycles have launched this month their first collaboration.

The bags from Cambridge Satchel Company are available online and in stores in Cambridge and Covent Garden in London.  The bike from Brompton is sold exclusively in its dedicated Brompton Junction stores, and in selected American stores.  

The collaboration between Cambridge Satchel Company and Brompton Bikes is viewed as a natural fit as a bicycle is already part of the Cambridge Satchel Company’s own logo, plus both companies are manufactured in the UK.

Brompton's in-house design team have worked closely with The Cambridge Satchel Company to develop the leather satchels which integrate with the Brompton’s front carrier system, fitting neatly onto the front of all Brompton bikes.

The Satchels, able to hold up to 2.5 kg of your must-have items, come in three colours: a Lagoon Blue, Turkish Green and Oxblood as shown in above and left pictures, taken at Cambridge's Covent Garden shop in London.   Brompton has also created a special edition bike in Gloss Oxblood and Ivory which showcases the Oxblood satchel.   The sophisticated colour combination should appeal to both men and ladies.

The Satchels handmade in Cambridge's own factory in Leicester, UK, are retailing at £195, and the foldable bike handmade in Brompton's factory in west London costs £1,400 and comes with the bag.

The bags are available online and in Cambridge's stores in Cambridge and Covent Garden in London.  The Brompton bike is sold exclusively in its dedicated Brompton Junction stores, and in selected American stores.

All photos © Lucia Carpio 2017.

Freddie's Flowers in time for Mother's Day in the UK!

These lovely stems of Rose 'Naomi', complimented with Limonium 'Sea Lavender' and Eucalyptus 'ViKtoria' were part of my first delivery of flowers from a young company called Freddie's Flowers.

In my box there were eight rose stems complete with the limonium and eucalyptus to accompany. I split them into two arrangements so I could spread their loveliness around the house.  They arrived on Friday just in time for my Mother's Day celebrations on Sunday March 26th.

The business was started by Freddie Garland (what a name) a couple of years ago.  He selects and designs a special bunch each week and patrons can join a subscription and get regular deliveries anywhere they like in the UK.

I got to know about Freddie's Flowers at the Affordable Art fair held at the Battersea Park in south London recently and thought I would give it a try.  Their promotional bicycle had a basket filled with lovely fresh flowers.

Freddie provides ideas for arranging the flowers and how to care for them.

Details are on the Freddie's Flowers website.

All photos © Lucia Carpio 2017.

Po-Zu executives talk of sustainable footwear and collaboration with STAR WARS™

They speak of pineapple leaf and coconut fibres, cork and other sustainable materials.  Sounds like an exotic cocktail of tropical delights? Not quite, but the ingredients for these ethical footwear are indeed enticing.

Sven Segal, the founder of the Po-Zu brand of eco-footwear hand-made in Portugal and its managing director Safia Minney (founder of sustainable fashion brand People Tree) were introducing their new footwear collection for men, women and children at a press event this March in their new north London office.

When you have two great minds joining up to push with passion for products that are kind to the environment and to our well-being, their enthusiasm rubs off and appeals to our desire for design aesthetic and values.
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The name Po-Zu stems from the Japanese verb ポーズ that means to pause, bringing with it a notion of stopping to think about the impact of modern footwear and look at ways to halt the damage caused to us and the planet by the exploitive working conditions in the leather industry.

Sven and Safia trumpeted their resourcefulness in producing an ethical shoe brand made of an impressive variety of sustainable materials for the different styles for everyday wear.

They also took the opportunity to preview the co‐branded STAR WARS™ / PO‐ZU collection, which includes high quality replicas of footwear worn in the films by some of the key characters, under licence with Lucasfilm/Disney.

To read in full, click HERE.

All photos © Lucia Carpio 2017.

Eco-luxury leather goods made in England from Sipahi

Eco-luxury, sustainably-sourced, handmade and heirloom.  Banu Sipahi was listing all the right descriptions for the modern discerning consumer when introducing her line of leather wares sold under the brand Sipahi, which was exhibiting at the PURE London trade fair earlier this year.

As the founder and director explained, Sipahi & Co offers leather goods using sustainably sourced leather and tanned exclusively with oak bark in the last tannery of its kind.

"All our leather is sourced from the West Country and carefully tanned in the last remaining oak bark tannery in the UK. A gentle 14-month long natural tanning process gives this leather the most luxurious look not found elsewhere," she said.

Their belts, for men and women, feature recycled brass buckles made in one of the last remaining English foundries, and most of the materials used for the buckle is recycled, individually sand cast and hand-polished.

"Our products are handmade in the UK by skilled craftsmen with traditional tools of English Master Saddlers.  Every detail from the burnished edges to the exact proportions of the belt holes and distance to each other is a well thought through process,"  she explained.

Additionally, the ancient saddle-stitch-method is a time consuming art: masterpieces to last a life-time, while the linen thread is 'Lin Cable Au Chinois' , made in France and is renowned for its resilience.   The strands are twisted twice before being immersed in beeswax and then brushed with horsehair.   Even the packaging is 100% from recycled materials and made in Britain.

Sipahi also offers free monogramming for orders through their website.  

All photos © Lucia Carpio 2017

Swarovski’s First Fine Jewellery Atelier Collection celebrates Mosaic, Art Deco and Concentric themes.

“Inspired by nature and driven by science," Swarovski's new fine jewellery atelier collection combines luxury and innovation, featuring "Swarovski Created Diamonds" and crystals, handcrafted in a Parisian atelier.

This new collection celebrates Swarovski's 10th year collaborating with the world’s greatest design talents.

Created exclusively for the red carpet, the collection includes necklaces, bracelets, earrings and rings were inspired by three key themes: Mosaic, Art Deco and Concentric.

According to its press release, Swarovski Created Diamonds are grown in a “state-of-the-art lab and have the same optical, chemical and physical attributes as mined diamonds. Both are 100% carbon, both have the same hardness and brilliance. This Atelier Swarovski Fine Jewellery Collection reflects an integral part of Swarovski’s heritage of craftsmanship, innovation and excellence as well as a commitment to sustainable practices. “

 Retail versions of the Atelier Swarovski red carpet pieces will be available in 2018.

Best known for its iconic "crystal" and lab-created gemstone jewellery, Swarovski announced in 2015 (when the brand celebrated its 120th anniversary) that it  was stepping up its presence in the high-end market with the release of a new collection that features diamonds set in sterling silver and 14-carat yellow and rose gold.

The move allowed Swarovski to target a new consumer base – jewellery prices range from US$125 to US$1,450 – as part of its 2020 Vision brand development programme.

Although often associated with fashion-focused jewellery, Swarovski had released previously in the category of fine jewellery collection, a range in China as well as another in collaboration with jewellery designer Matthew Campbell Laurenza via its Atelier Swarovski division.

Disney and Central Saint Martins students collaborate on Beauty and the Beast custume project

Walt Disney Studios together with Central Saint Martins, University of the Arts London have launched a costume collaboration inspired by the soon to be released movie, Beauty and the Beast.
The project involved 13 students from Central Saint Martins’ BA Performance Design and Practices course, working in small groups to design a collection of costumes, based on the key themes, motifs and characters of the new Beauty and the Beast live-action film.

Beauty and the Beast costumes by students of Central Saint Martins' BA Performance Design and Practices.

Jacqueline Durran, the film’s Academy Award® winning costume designer, supported the project by taking time to mentor the students at the Kings Cross campus of Central Saint Martins and helped select their final designs to produce.

Verity Cleary, Costume Specialist Technician for the Drama & Performance programme and creative lead on the project said: “The Beauty and the Beast project has been an inspiring platform to push the students' creativity and imagination, producing innovative costume creations. The students were extremely lucky to have Jacqueline Durran's guidance during the final design presentation. This supported them in interpreting costumes where sustainability was key.”

Belle and Beast costume by Faye Lee and Tasmin Case.

Tasmin Case, a student who co-designed an innovative costume which combined elements of Belle and the Beast, comments: “The nostalgia of the film made it very interesting from a design perspective - attempting to do justice to a film that resonates with so many who watched it growing up. As an adult, watching the new live-action film, I found new meanings in the story such as acceptance and inner beauty that inspired my design process.”

Her design partner, Faye Lee elaborates: “We took the idea of inner beauty literally, applying it to our design by revealing the layers of undergarments.  The film highlights that it’s not all about appearance, and that’s why we combined both Belle and the Beast into our costume.”

The Rose designed by Chris Goodman an Jo Jo Faucher.

The Bell Jar designed by Preeyaporn Thammajariyaphan, Victoria Adebayo and Fie Neo. 

Cogsworth by Matilda Eldon-McCaig and Esme Callaghan

The project has been supported by Austrian company Swarovski, whose crystals feature in several costumes and set design elements in the film, including Belle’s iconic yellow dress which sparkles with 2,160 crystals. Swarovski also manufactured the Bell Jar, based on Disney’s original design. Decorating the top of its ornate dome is a bespoke-cut crystal finial shining with 543 facets. The crystal house donated over 20,000 crystals to the Central Saint Martins project, which the students have incorporated into all six of the designs.

Swarovski is committed to creating educational opportunities and supporting the next generation of design talent, and has collaborated with Central Saint Martins on the BA Fashion Design Project for over 15 years.

To fully appreciate the students' creative works and the wonder of their designs, watch this film clip on Youtube.  Click HERE. 

Be Our Guest costume by Neelam Rehman and Rosie Crisp

Disney’s Beauty and the Beast releases across the UK from Friday March 17th.  The film, which achieved a record-breaking 127.6 million trailer views during its first 24 hours, sees the story and characters audiences know and love come to spectacular life in the live-action adaptation of Disney’s animated classic film in a stunning, cinematic event that celebrates one of the most beloved tales ever told.

The Inventor by Emily Penfold and Darcy Davies.

All photos from Disney/Premier Comms.

Embellishments and prints rule at Textile Forum in London

Fabric suppliers move up a creative gear says organiser, while trade is predicted to be challenging.

The Textile Forum taking place 15-16 March 2017 at One Marylebone, London promises to offer an even greater choice of embellished and textured fabrics for designers looking to be inspired, according to co-founder and organiser Linda Laderman.

British textiles with unique novelty are sought after at major trade fairs such as
Premiere Vision as shown above in February 2017. © Lucia Carpio 2017

“Fabric designers have produced some of the most elaborate ranges we have seen at Textile Forum since the show was launched in 2002,” she says.  “Suppliers have moved up a gear when it comes to creativity in texture, pattern and colour and are keen to introduce British quirkiness in design and artisanal techniques, to provide exciting collections to tempt fabric buyers.

“While there is an overall mood of optimism among the majority of exhibitors, there is no doubt that trade is going to be more difficult this year and prices have risen a little. With the decision to leave the EU and the uncertain consumer market, innovation, matched with exceptional service, are going to be the keystones for winning business.”

British textiles with unique novelty are sought after at major trade fairs
such as Premiere Vision Paris. © Lucia Carpio 2017 

Among the exhibitors at Textile Forum this season is Bella Tela which has found inspiration from within the British monarchy regalia for its the Koh-i-Nor diamond and regal florals in its Spring/Summer 18 collection called Ethereal.  It features 100 new designs and has used traditional artisan techniques mixed with delicate laser and intricate embroidery, with colours inspired by the fragmentation of light that occurs through the stone, so includes tones found between colours of blush, rose and coral as well as a new faint heron grey and subtle golden tones.

Top left – Bella Tela; Top right – AW Hainsworth; Bottom left – Michael’s Bridal Fabrics; Bottom right – Jane Makower Fabrics.  Photo courtesy Textile Forum.

Best known for its plain, Pongees has recognised the importance for prints in spring 2018 and has pulled together a wide range of plain silks that are prepared for digital printing. These include crepe satins, double crepes, crepe de chines, chiffons, georgettes and habotais, twills and jerseys. It is advising designers looking to create 3D effects to use  layers of crisp organza ruffles and frills that can work alongside crumpled and rumpled, surface detail lace for an easy and relaxed mood and has also introduced more fancy fabrics, including embroideries, laces and jacquards, into the collection.

While lace continues to be strong in bridal and eveningwear,  James Hare  will showcase a new guipure featuring an intricately patterned, yet elegant design, for a traditional style gown with a modern twist, available in black or white.  In addition with the return of colour in bridalwear, James Hare offers two new pastels - spring rose and blue prism – introduced into its chantilly lace group and a rose to co-ordinate with its crepe backed satin and chiffon palette.

Michael’s Bridal Fabrics, which has also extended its range of laser cuts with 3D effects, has a guipure with laser cut panels and another with embroidery and beading. It has also introduced its first print designs, including one on silk organza and will also have some new Italian jacquards.
Meanwhile, as more brides now realise that the back of their dress is as important as the front, Michael’s Bridal Fabrics is offering a back panel design with a crystalled/beaded motif on each shoulder area, which is linked together by several layers of looped crystal or clear beaded bands.
For menswear, shirtings specialist Ringhart Fabrics is again opting for Britishness with traditional Tattersall checks in updated shades, along with textured plain fabrics aimed at younger men looking for an investment piece.

On the suitings side, Holland & Sherry continues with the celebrations of its 180th anniversary, with collections for both men and women. Imperiod Gold, one of its most exclusive fabrics, woven in England, combines luxurious Mongolian cashmere and pure worsted vicuna with a dusting of 22 carat gold. Its anniversary collection features jacketing and suiting fabrics woven from Super 180s 14.5 micron yarns in worsted and woollen spun qualities available in a range of glen checks, guarded windowpanes, gun clubs and grid checks in classic colours.

A W Hainsworth, which provided the red fabric for the tunics of the British army at the battle of Waterloo, is introducing new colours based on its military heritage.

A new media partner for Textile Forum is Savile Row Style, which puts the spotlight on bespoke clothes.  It also covers other upmarket topics of interest to those who shop in the Row or aspire to, and concentrates upon quality and craftsmanship in the modern world.

March 8th - International Women's Day!

Hedge and Hog Prints' new original work shown below is a message of solidarity and strength.  A great way to celebrate the 2017 International Women's Day.

Note on this unique, one of its kind limited edition print, are the names of pioneering women from past and present interspersed with keywords from the feminist movement, and the strong typographic element contrasts beautifully with the delicate watercolour wash background, much like the modern women, a bundle of contradictions.

The print is a great design; while empowering women and also celebrating the strong women through history.  It is available unframed, printed on high quality smooth 270 gsm paper, and will be sent packaged flat so that it arrives uncreased in perfect condition.  Available in two sizes: A2 and A4.

As a brand, Hedge and Hog is very aware of women's role in society, encouraged by the new wave of feminism in the Western World today.   Their prints and products are available at these websites:-

www.notonthehighstreet.com/hedgeandhog

www.HedgeAndHogPrints.etsy.com

Spring has Sprung in glorious Harry Winston Style

When cherry trees start to bloom, you know Spring has arrived.  New York-based Harry Winston known for its fine jewelry and high-end watchmaking is celebrating Spring with its new Avenue Classic Cherry Blossom luxury watch.
.  It's got a Quartz movement and is water-resistant to 3 bar (30,m/100ft.)

Harry Winston's Avenue Classic Cherry Blossom will be launched at BASEL WORLD 2017 

(March 23 - 30, 2017 in Switzerland)

Capturing the ephemeral beauty of a cherry tree in bloom, the new watch shows off a mother-of-pearl dial which forms an iridescent backdrop to a flurry of 39 white diamonds and 29 pink sapphires that represent the flowers and petals of the cherry blossom tree.

Attached to the white gold branches or floating gently to the ground, the precious stones are cut in different sizes to create fascinating effects of depth and movement.  This magnificent tableau is framed by an 18k white gold case whose architecture echoes the stately stone facade of Harry Winston's historic Fifth Avenue Salon in New York, and the three arches surrounding the entrance.

The 29 brilliant-cut diamonds on the case are a reminder of the long-standing association between the House of Harry Winston and precious stones.  The Bracelet/strap is in green-blue alligator without stitching, finished with an18k white gold buckle set with 6 brilliant-cut diamonds.

Founded in New York City in 1932, Harry Winston entered the world of watchmaking in 1989.
In 2007, The House of Harry Winston pledged its continued dedication to watchmaking with the opening of its own manufacture in Geneva.

Today, the House of Harry Winston operates salons worldwide in locations including: New York, London, Paris, Geneva, Rome, Tokyo, Hong Kong, and Shanghai. The House also distributes its timepiece collections through select retailers and partners worldwide.

Fendi launches Selleria Strap You timepieces

Inspired by the FENDI Strap You collection of shoulder straps, their new watch collection to be launched at BASEL WORLD  (March 23 - 30, 2017 in Switzerland), will be a hit with fashionistas and diehard Fendi fans.
 

The Fendi Spirit of this new Selleria Strap You is accentuated by the hand-crafted expertise of the Maison.  Note the Roman numerals and hour-markers appear like topstitching on the dial.  The Case, 36 mm, is in Stainless Steel or 18K Gold-plated bezel.  The Crown features mother-of-pearl cabochon in sapphire crystal.  The dial is of white mother-of-pearl with Astuccio motif in yellow gold and white tones or anthracite and white tones.
Interchangeable double tour strap in Fendi Catalan calfskin adorned with leather flowers featuring a central cone-shaped stud as shown above, or in Fendi Dolce T calfskin adorned with multi-coloured lucite studs 
as shown in picture below.
Stainless steel pin buckle.  Quartz movement.  Water-resistant to 50 metres (5 bar / 165 ft).

The new Selleria Strap You watch is both playful and sophisticated; fitted with a double tour calfskin leather strap embellished by various ornaments ranging from multi-coloured lucite studs to leather flowers featuring a central stud.

Available in seven versions, this strap can be easily changed to suit the present mood simply by rotating the caseback, thanks to an ingenious patented interchangeable strap system.

Available in yellow gold or anthracite tones, the mother-of-pearl dial takes its Astuccio motif from a sketch made by Karl Lagerfeld in 1971 for the iconic fur bearing the same name.

Fendi stand at Basel World, Switzerland.

FENDI, the Italian luxury House with roots dating back to 1925, began its foray into the world of luxury timepieces in 1988.  All the Fendi Timepieces watches are manufactured in Switzerland.

We are entering the age of the aged, say new reports.

The world of fashion modelling is continuously evolving, reflecting society and economic trends.   London-based MOT Models, a leading model agency in Europe, has set up a new division called RETRO in response to latest developments that the post-war baby boomer generation is leading the way in the world of luxury purchases.

MOT MODELS: Two of their top models in the new RETRO division: Remco (43) and his father Aad Van Der Linden (72) are often featured in photoshoots for brands and retailers. 

Photo by Thomas Kettner.

Indeed, baby boomers (people born between 1945 and 1960 - as defined by the 2016 Mary Keener Internet Trend Report) are part of a global shift in consumer trends.  Brands and advertisers are interested in targeting mature customers thus they look for models who are real life characters with laughter lines, true life skills and also showcase the brand’s sophisticated qualities.

This latest development at MOT Models emerged just days after  Sun Branding Solutions - consultants of brand and packaging - have released a new whitepaper on the many challenges and opportunities presented by an ageing population that face brands, marketers and designers today.

Entitled Age Repackaged, the whitepaper offers some insight into how brands and retailers can learn from, and tap into, this powerful, growing market, according to Group commercial director Sonia Whiteley-Guest.

Indeed, the latest Family Spending report confirmed that one of the most important trends to hit retailers in the past decade shows a spending shift to the over-50s.

As the study from Sun Branding Solutions has revealed, brands and retailers focusing on millennials should remember that the over 65s will be the fastest growing consumer group this century.  In the UK today, there are 11.6 million over 65s (almost 20% of the population) holding over 80% of the nation’s wealth, according to the report. (Click HERE to read the full report.)

These ‘boomers’  are outweighing the under 65s by 3 to 1, and life expectancy is growing by five hours every day (The Guardian).

We are officially entering the age of the aged.

Globally, consumers 60 and over are expected to spend $15 trillion by 2020, according to a recent report from the Bank of America, and that this age group is more likely to buy into marketing and advertising than their younger counterparts – as long as brands get it right.

With the over 65s due to increase by more than 40% in the next 17 years, retailers and marketers need to focus on how to design and target their products for an agening population, looking into product development, pack structure and design, that can actually offer a better experience not just for this age group but for everyone, according to Sun Branding Solutions.  Their whitepaper shares insight from a diverse mix of experts, focusing on what our ageing population wants and needs and why developing by demographic just doesn’t work these days.

Back to the growing need for setting up a new division RETRO of more mature models, founder of MOT Models, Helen Illes, explains: “Today it is those aged between 50 and 70 who have true spending power. The post-war generation continues to explore exciting activities and wants to dress with style. Younger generations are struggling to make ends meet.

“Due to this, we are experiencing a shift with big brands who are looking for real life characters with true life skills. RETRO includes internationally renowned models with timeless appeal who have the personality, style and charisma to support big brands. These models must reflect the customers and showcase the brand’s sophisticated qualities. Advertisers need individuals who won’t be eclipsed by big brands.

Hellen Illes added, “The over 40s of previous generations instinctively behaved like older people with a set uniform of perms and pearls. This is no longer the case. The post-war generation have changed the whole of society wherever they hit with positivity at their heart. A perfect example is Joanna Lumley, who recently turned 70 and continues to be a style icon. The model industry reflects society and economic trends. Television, films and adverts for big ticket items are today geared towards the older demographic.

“Mature models represent the values of having fun, looking good and enjoying life at a time when previous generations would have slowed down. We are seeing baby boomers challenging stereotypes and taking part in extreme activities. Instagram is a great example."