Technical Outerwear: Allied Feather + Down, NetPlus and Resortecs unveil circular jacket with Peak Performance

The R&D Helium Loop Anorak

Growing awareness of the environmental impact of performance apparel is pushing brands to rethink how technical garments are designed, used and disposed of. As consumers demand products that align with their values—and as regulators move to curb waste and reliance on virgin petrochemicals—circularity has become a strategic priority across the sportswear sector.   High-performance gear, often made from complex combinations of synthetics, insulation and trims, has traditionally been among the hardest to recycle. But advances in materials science, disassembly-friendly construction and take-back systems are enabling companies to design products that maintain performance while remaining suitable for repair, reuse and end-of-life recycling.

Now Swedish outdoor and ski-wear company - Peak Performance - has partnered with a trio of material-innovation firms to develop what the companies describe as a breakthrough in circular design for technical outerwear. 

The R&D Helium Loop Anorak, created with Allied Feather + Down, NetPlus, Pertex and Resortecs, aims to overcome long-standing barriers to recycling multi-material performance garments.

Technical jackets typically combine components such as natural down insulation, nylon shells, zips and elastic trims. This mix has made end-of-life recycling difficult, as the items are hard to separate without labour-intensive processes. The Helium Loop project sets out to demonstrate that products can be engineered from the outset to be disassembled and recycled.

“For years, brands have wanted to introduce more circularity into their products, but the onus has fallen on ingredient partners and start-ups,” said Matthew Betcher, creative director at Allied Feather + Down. “Garments need to be designed for circularity before any sense of recyclability can start to be possible. That’s why we’re excited to work with Peak Performance to build, from the beginning, a truly circular product.”

Each partner contributed a specialist component. Allied supplied 800-fill-power down, which the company describes as renewable, recyclable and biodegradable. NetPlus, a material made from discarded fishing nets collected before they reach the ocean, was transformed into 100% post-consumer recycled nylon yarn. Pertex then wove that yarn into the anorak’s shell and lining. Resortecs provided Smart Stitch, a heat-activated thread that melts during controlled disassembly, allowing the shell fabrics and down insulation to be separated cleanly for recycling.

Designer Marie Andersson said the project shows that circularity and performance need not be at odds. “True circularity isn't about accepting compromises; it’s about engineering garments to be unmade as thoughtfully as they’re made,” she said. “When premium materials meet disassembly-focused design, every component can maintain its highest value across multiple lifecycles.”

David Stover, CEO of Bureo, the company behind NetPlus, said the initiative highlights how alternative materials can reduce reliance on fossil fuels. “Technical outerwear is typically built from crude oil,” he said. “By connecting better materials with thoughtful design, the Peak Performance team explored the challenge of building products suited for end-of-life recycling and helped push the industry transition away from fossil fuel.”

The Helium Loop Anorak remains an R&D project, but its creators hope the approach will influence future commercial product lines and set a model for circular design in high-performance outdoor apparel.