Fashion Trade Fair: Vain FW24 collection at Copenhagen Fashion Week is a Love Story

The VAIN FW24 collection, which was presented in a runway show at Copenhagen Fashion Week on January 30th 2024, reflects on the intricate dance of work and passion, leisure, and daily life, embodying a love story between life and work.

The collection is heavily inspired by the journey of the brand, says the Creative Director Jimi Vain. "We’ve been all around but it's our time to return to the fundamentals, and VAIN is all about love. It has consistently been, and it always will be. It encompasses the affection we share for one another, for this journey, for our planet, for our craft, and for the community around us".

Vain explained that in the fashion industry, due to busy schedules and numerous challenges, it is often difficult to find a balance between work and leisure. It’s a conflict of interest that we (have to) grapple with daily. Hard work fueled by pure passion is a beautiful thing. There is a certain level of absurdity to it all, especially in the fashion industry. The paradox and irony of months of intensive work culminating in a brief 15-minute runway show, only to swiftly transition to the next endeavor — the relentless rat race of fashion.

“We have now been in the industry for almost 3 years, gradually getting into the rhythm of fashion. In this time, we have created our own version of the infamous rat race. Luckily we live and work from Helsinki which is not a typical fashion capital. It’s a city with a calmer phase where creativity can bloom freely. We also love the idea that we are kind of outsiders. I believe it gives us a more objective perspective on the industry.

"With work life as the broader theme, more concrete inspirations are specifically Helsinki as an environment, Japanese work culture and attire, as well as the 2010 Atlanta trap music era, where rappers used to put out 3-4 mixtapes a year, glamourizing work ethic in a way that still resonates with us."

Married to the VAIN showcases silhouettes and accessories that blend elements of formal business attire with the comfort of leisurewear, presenting a fusion of sleek, tailored designs and relaxed streetwear. The garments are rich in symbolism and graphics that reflect the so-called rat race. To solidify the commitment to this life, the collection also includes a wedding ring. The predominant colour scheme as typical for VAIN is black, accented by glittery and bright elements that pay homage to contemporary trap music aesthetics. 

The collection features items from the upcoming “VAIN Upcycled” product line and incorporates a wide range of deadstock materials.

To incorporate a soundscape that feels like Helsinki, VAIN commissioned a collection EP, titled "From HEL With Love" from VAIN´s friends at record label and creative collective BELOW0. The runway music is an extended mix of the 3-song-EP, releasing on all streaming platforms on February 2nd, 2024.

All photos by James Cochrane, courtesy of Copenhagen Fashion Week.

Fashion Trade Fair: Copenhagen Fashion week AW24 - the 2nd day opened with Rolf Ekroth and closed with J. Lindeberg

The second day of Copenhagen Fashion Week AW24 on January 30th opened with the Finnish-Swedish designer Rolf Ekroth as part of CPHFW NEWTALENT supported by CIRCULOSE®.

As a sustainable fashion brand, Rolf Ekroth creates gender neutral clothing designed to fit various body types, promoting inclusivity while reducing waste.

Above images - AW24 collection by Rolf Ekroth who prioritizes using sustainable materials, with 80% sourced from deadstock or recycled sources like recycled bottles. All garments are made in Finland and the Baltic countries, where ethical working conditions and fair pay are ensured. 
Photos by James Cochrane

Elsewhere the CPHFW Creator Hub began with a Wellness Morning Workshop and in the afternoon the official Creator Hub Party welcomed the Nordic and International creative community to celebrate the AW24 season.

 The official talk program supported by Vogue Business continued with the talk "Debunking the Dream: Challenges of Working in the Creative Industry." 

The second day of CFW concluded with the runway show of iconic Swedish brand J.Lindeberg.

Above images - AW24 collection by J. Lindeberg. The brand founded by Johan Lindeberg in 1996 was born out of an idea to inject style and energy to golf by changing how players all over the world dress on and off the course.   Today, J.Lindeberg has grown into a fashion and sports brand with a worldwide presence, offering innovative pieces within fashion,
golf, ski, tennis, outdoor and more.
Photos by James-Cochrane

Separatgely, Copenhagen Fashion Week has announced its partnership with Danish sustainability-oriented fashion brand GANNI to support and uplift emerging talent in the Nordics through a special activation for this February AW24 edition.

Ganni is celebrating its 10th anniversary and is hosting a dedicated exhibition showcasing bespoke designs created by designers under the auspices of CPHFW NEWTALENT supported by CIRCULOSE®.  The designers are Alectra Rothschild/Masculina, Nicklas Skovgaard and CPHFW NEWTALENT alumni A. Roege Hove through GANNI's in-house Fabrics of the Future platform, alongside four other creatives, Jens Ole Arnason, artist; Sahar Jamili, artist; Sarah Brunnhuber, founder of Stem, and Sisse Bjerre presenting innovative modes of expression through the possibilities offered by new fabrics engineered for the modern world.

The exhibition features forward-looking materials including  Celium from Polybion, a pioneering alternative to synthetic fabrics made from petroleum, and Savian from BioFluff, a plant-based fur alternative.

All  images courtesy of Copenhagen Fashion Week.

Fashion Trade Fair: Copenhagen Fashion Week AW24 edition has kicked off

The AW24 edition of Copenhagen Fashion Week kicked off  on January 29th 2024 with a highly curated schedule of some of the biggest names in Danish fashion. Following the first talk of the season which took place in the Polestar Space, the day commenced with the Opening Reception.

CPHFW NEWTALENT supported by CIRCULOSE® recipient Nicklas Skovgaard officially opened the show schedule. 

Nicklas Skovgaard is a considered, luxury womenswear brand, with a strong elocution intending to delight through unexpected parallels. 

Nicklas Skovgaard
 Photos by James Cochrane

Each body of Nicklas' work builds upon the last collection, acting with an evolutionary purpose and building an ever-evolving vocabulary. Orchestrating these classical and strange symphonies within his eponymous textiles and recognizable design, Nicklas Skovgaard is a brand cultivated on the edge of romanticism and realism. Nicklas Skovgaard was nominated as a finalist of the Wessel & Vett Fashion Prize 2022.

Alectra Rothschild/Masculina presented for the first time as part of CPHFW NEWTALENT scheme. 

Won Hundred
Photos by James Cochrane

Forza Collective and Won Hundred followed, with both hosting their first runway shows this AW24. 

Saks Potts
Photos by James Cochrane

Finally, Saks Potts - Wessel & Vett Fashion Prize Winner 2023 - closed the day. 

All  images courtesy of Copenhagen Fashion Week.

Fashion Fair: Copenhagen Fashion Week announces Official Talk Programme and New Talent updates

Gearing up for the forthcoming edition, Copenhagen Fashion Week (CPW) (to be held from January 29 to February 2, 2024), announces the first release of the Official Talk Programme, Small talks - big conversations, for AW24, to a live audience, with a dedicated talk being held each day in the dedicated Talk Venue hosted in the Polestar Space in the heart of Copenhagen. 

CPW also announce Vogue Business as official media partner for the second season, who will use their global audience to amplify the reach of the talks that will be launched as podcasts post release. Attendance to the talk programme is open to the public and will be on a first come first served basis. Each talk will include a 30 minute panel followed by a 15 minute Q&A. 

The talk series makes up a vital element of the official schedule each season, representing an opportunity to dig deeper into wider issues facing fashion. For AW24, Copenhagen Fashion Week has invited industry leaders and creatives to discuss a wide range of topics and issues within the fashion industry.⁠

Keep an eye on @cphfw Instagram channel for announcements of the talk panelists and visit copenhagenfashionweek.com for the detailed schedule release and updates. Vogue Business exclusive CPHFW discount: ⁠

Vogue Business offers a global perspective on the fashion industry, exploring how cultural trends and global patterns will impact luxury and creative businesses. Harnessing insights from technologists, trend forecasters, futurists, and innovators, Vogue Business goes beyond the headlines to connect professionals with the fast-moving fashion and beauty industries. 

CPHFW NEWTALENT Showroom supported by CIRCULOSE®  

During the AW24 season, CPHFW NEWTALENT will host a showroom supported by CIRCULOSE® as the main partner of the scheme, introducing the Nordic and international press and buyer community to a selection of leading emerging designers of the Nordics.  This is the CPW's ongoing effort to nurture emerging talents from the Nordics with a range of activations to spotlight the next generation of fashion visionaries. This season Alectra Rothschild and Stamm will present their first showcases as part of the scheme, with Nicklas Skovgaard and Rolf Ekroth presenting for the second time.

A total of 6 emerging designers are featured in the showroom, including CPHFW Alumni Latimmier, represented by Fashion in Helsinki as well as MLGA, represented by Alpha. 

CPHFW NEWTALENT One To Watch is a recognition spotlight granted to a designer or brand with an exceptional creative vision. Alongside extensive communication by Copenhagen Fashion Week, the brand is provided a free slot on the official Presentation & Event schedule for showcasing their collection as an installation during fashion week.

For AW24 CPHFW NEWTALENT's One to Watch is Martin Quad alongside the talent from SS24, MLGA. They are highlighted as key brands within the Copenhagen Fashion Week edition that are representative of the next generation of creative talent.

All images from Copenhagen Fashion Week.

Fashion Weeks: Fashion Network launches mobile App for Fashion professionals

Fashion Network, the Paris-based information website for international professionals in fashion, luxury and beauty, is serving the industries by launching its own application (app), available on IOS and Android, in ten languages, featuring live coverage and photos of the latest fashion shows, as well as news from the fashion, luxury and beauty industries.

This way those in the business who need to keep up-to-the minute on any of the latest Fashion Weeks (be they in Paris, Milan, London, New York, Tokyo, Seoul and Berlin ) and fashion news, will not miss out.

The app is free of charge, with no registration required nor advertising.  It features a free image bank that is updated daily, bringing together the latest creations of 5,000 designers from all over the world.

According to Fashionnetwork.com on their website, several million high-definition photos of catwalk shows are easily accessible, including runway looks and photos focusing on details such as shoes, bags, jewellery and more.  There are also loads of imagery such as backstage photos, official visuals of collections and the best street looks photographed outside of events, that are crucial for those needing to keep tap on trends.

Subscribers will receive an alert when a show goes live and even if the shows are running late. In addition to these live broadcasts, there are tens of thousands of archive videos, including fashion shows, reports and interviews.

The Calendar section is a practical tool for professionals and enthusiasts alike, who want to find their way around the plethora of global events on the calendars of the fashion capitals of the world. 

Read more on their website by clicking HERE.

Textiles & Fashion: As world's fashion centres host major international events, McKinsey's State of Fashion 2024 report gives valuable insights

Fashion companies will continue to face major challenges in 2024, revealed in a recent report: The State of Fashion 2024 by management consultancy McKinsey & Company.

According to a panel of experts and authors of the report*, there are still pockets of growth due to shifting consumer priorities that will continue to offer opportunities despite the economic headwinds, technology shifts, and an evolving competitive landscape in 2024.

Première Vision Paris - SS24
Photo by Lucia Carpio

Looking back to 2023, the fashion industry faced challenges that were both persistent and deepening, says the report. On a regional basis, Europe and the United States saw slow growth throughout the year, while China’s initially strong performance faded in the second half, according to the report.  Though the luxury segment initially fared well, it too began to feel the effects of weaker demand in the latter part of the year, leading to slowing sales and uneven performance.

Looking toward 2024, the most prominent sentiment among fashion industry leaders is uncertainty, reflecting the prospect of subdued economic growth, persistent inflation, and weak consumer confidence. Against this backdrop, businesses will be challenged to identify pockets of value and unlock new drivers of performance.

According to McKinsey’s analysis of fashion forecasts, the global industry will post top-line growth of 2 to 4 percent in 2024, with regional and country-level variations. Once again, the luxury segment is expected to generate the biggest share of economic profit. However, even there, companies will be challenged by the tough economic environment. The segment is forecast to grow globally by 3 to 5 percent, compared with 5 to 7 percent in 2023, as consumers rein in spending after a postpandemic surge. European and Chinese growth is set to slow, while US growth is expected to pick up after a relatively weak 2023, reflecting the slightly more optimistic outlook there.

The Première Vision Paris international trade fair for
the fashion and textile industry.
Photo by Lucia Carpio

Beyond luxury, growth of 2 to 4 percent is predicted for the year ahead, in line with the probable outcome in 2023. 

Texworld Evolution Paris - SS24
Photo by Lucia Carpio

The European market will likely expand by just 1 to 3 percent, compared with 5 percent in the first half of 2023 and 1 to 3 percent in the second half. Slumping consumer confidence and declining household savings are expected to be the most probable causes of restrained spending. 

In the United States, nonluxury sector growth of 0 to 2 percent is forecast. 

And China is expected to be similarly challenged amid 4 to 6 percent growth, which is a slight uptick from the end of 2023 but slow when considered on a historical basis.

*The McKinsey report was a collaborative effort by Imran Amed, representing views of Business of Fashion, and Anita Balchandani, David Barrelet, Achim Berg, Gemma D’Auria, Felix Rölkens, and Ewa Starzynska, representing views from McKinsey’s Retail Practice.

Interiors and Lifestyle: New Collections Inspired by Pantone's Colour of the Year "Peach Fuzz"

Since Pantone the colour authority named Peach Fuzz as the Colour of the Year 2024,  we have seen the launch of many new design-led products that respond to this sweet subtle shade that lies between pink and orange, popularly adopted to feature in home decor to accessories for the whole year round.

Pantone no 13-1023 to be precise is described as a comforting hue chosen to express a yearning for community and coziness, so needed in today's uncertain times, signaling a move towards empathy and understanding.

Zebra Peach Print crafted by Print Press Print in Cornwall studio, showcasing the captivating profile of a zebra against a warm and inviting peach-colored backdrop.

The soft and inviting colour offers a chance for introspection and healing, "tenderness and communicating a message of caring, community, and collaboration,” says Pantone Executive Director Leatrice Eiseman, emphasizing its capacity to bring comfort and inner peace, impacting our well-being and inner serenity.

This Lion's Gaze Print by Print Press Print captures the lion's majestic presence and noble features, bringing the powerful beauty of the lion's direct gaze into any living space. 

British art and graphics studio - Print Press Print based in Cornwall has launched a fresh collection of wall prints named exactly as "Peach Fuzz." 

This Arctic Fox's Gaze Print by Print Press Print showcases the direct gaze of an Arctic fox, unwavering and captivating, against a warm and inviting peach-coloured backdrop. 

Featuring themes from the natural world, the new collection showcases a range of animal images of meticulous details, brought to life against the soft tones of "Peach Fuzz." From the grace of Arctic foxes to the power of tigers, lions, zebras, and leopards, each print captures the essence of these creatures in a subtle yet striking manner.

White Tiger Print by Print Press Print
captures the essence of the majestic white tiger,
 showcasing its powerful presence and
distinctive stripes against
a warm and elegant backdrop.  

Tom Blake, the creative force behind Print Press Print, says: "Pantone's 'Peach Fuzz' offers a warm and sophisticated palette. It's been a pleasure exploring this hue in this new collection, bringing out the beauty of the animal kingdom in a more understated way. I'm excited to share these pieces with art lovers and those who appreciate the natural world."

Known for its distinct wall art featuring bold colours and captivating designs, Print Press Print's latest release is not static, with plans to expand by introducing more captivating creatures in the coming months. Prints from the new "Peach Fuzz" inspired collection are available in various sizes, from A5 to A1, and can be conveniently purchased from the official Print Press Print Etsy shop. 

Peach accents are featured in independent London brand Neonimo's newest collection, printed with unique designs and sustainably handmade to order.   The brand produces a wide range of lifestyle products for the home as well as fashion items.

"Physically Here" Giclee Framed Art Print and Posters from Neonimo
 which uses high-quality shatterproof acrylic as a pane that is a highly durable material that adds resilience and a shine. It's printed full bleed then transferred into the handmade box frame. 

Neonimo, founded by designer Namalee, operates a made to order (MTO) model which means they only start making item(s) once an order is placed. This means the London-based company hold no stock, nor do they produce products beyond need helping to fight against creating unnecessary waste on our planet. Neonimo's eco-conscious practices include using FSC certified paper materials⁠ and use very little water in their manufacturing process⁠. Their Eco Collection is made from OEKO-TEX® standard 100% recycled fabric and GOTS standard Organic Cotton. Neonimo also use plant-based vegan wax and recycled glass jars for their candle jar collection.

From Lust Home, Life's A Peach wallpaper in Peachy Pinks by designer Millie Putland
.  

Interior designer Tara Rodrigues, founder of TR Interiors and winner of Channel 4’s £250,000 Big Interiors Battle, said: “A revival of peach is long overdue. Peach was once commonly used in interiors but as modernism spread, it lost its place in the contemporary home.

“It’s a soothing warm colour and I love pairing it with rich dark hues of blues and greens to create elegant and bold schemes. It’s a great way to soften a scheme making a home feel warm and inviting. For those that don't love pink, peach is a great compromise in a family home adding a touch of femininity without being overpowering. I'd mix peach into a contemporary kitchen or living room scheme for a warm pop of colour to elevate a space.”

Textile designer Jan Constantine, of Jan Constantine, said: “Peach Fuzz is a really beautiful colour which feels so right for now. It exudes warmth and cosiness, feels safe and is the perfect back drop shade to saturate a room. Its soft tones work perfectly with other warm hues from the same side of the spectrum – pink, terracotta, orange, yellow and red. Peach Fuzz also works well as a dramatic contrast to black and/or cream, hinting back at the most iconic colours of the Art Deco movement.

From Ohpopsi, Riviera Pink Lemonade wallpaper

Zoe Eaton, Creative Director at Ohpopsi, said: “Soft and feminine, peach fuzz lifts the spirits. A refreshing tone that will balance any interior space and work with a multitude of different palettes, it’s accessible, friendly and emits an abundance of warmth. It’s a really lovely positive tone and is a colour for everyone!

Hummingbird Rosewood wallpaper from Ohpopsi featuring hummingbirds and lush foliage in a hand-drawn design to create an elegant and serene design to create a calming haven.

Interiors: New lighting by Sowden to be presented at Top Drawer

Sowden, the homeware and lighting brand created by British Milan-based designer George Sowden, will showcase their full Shades Collection of lights at the design-led trade fair Top Drawer 2024, from 14 - 16 January at Olympia London, announced SCP the UK distributor of Sowden.

Sowden Ceiling Lamps.
Photo by Alice Fiorilli from SCP website.

SCP is also presenting Sowden's new product launches being shown for the first time at the Top Drawer trade fair. 

The Shades Collection is composed of suspension, table and floor lamps, alongside a family of battery-powered designs suitable for both indoor and outdoor use.

The idea for the Shade Collection took shape in 2020, when George Sowden, while working on another project, discovered the extraordinary potential and ability to diffuse light through soft silicone; a non-toxic material that is easy to clean, stands up to impact and conserves its aesthetic qualities without ever showing signs of ageing.

The use of silicone for this purpose, lends the Shades collection its distinctive allure.

The interplay of shapes and colours, assembled in diverse configurations, brings versatility and life to these remarkable lamps, according to SCP,  manufacturer and dealer of high-quality contemporary furniture, lighting, textiles and accessories, established in London in 1985 by Sheridan Coakley.

Headquartered in Milan, the Sowden brand has emerged as an epitome of design innovation. Created by George Sowden, a British designer originally from Leeds, who established himself in the Milanese design firmament, after moving to the city in the early 1970s. Sowden’s legacy includes co-founding the influential Memphis Group in 1981, alongside Ettore Sottsass and Nathalie Du Pasquier.

With a prolific portfolio spanning decades, Sowden has contributed iconic designs to leading brands such as Alessi, Bodum, Swatch, Steelcase, Tefal, and Pyrex.

Transitioning into the 2000s, Sowden's studio focused on self-branded products like the Sowden Softbrew coffee system, while also collaborating with renowned Danish brand HAY. The Shades Collection represents his latest success, introducing a bespoke lighting brand with a unique approach to designing and developing products.

Lifestyle Trade Fair: Top Drawer returns to London January 14 - 16 2024

Top Drawer will be returning to Olympia London in Kensington from the 14-16th January, featuring more than 600 contemporary brands presenting their new collections to some 10,000 retailers and trade visitors from 80 countries.

Organisers at Clarion Retail say following double-digit visitor growth in 2023, this January’s Top Drawer has seen a 10%  increase in exhibitor numbers, bringing retailers an unparalleled choice of hand-picked suppliers to explore. Particular stand-outs include the Craft, Greetings & Stationery and Wellbeing sections, which have seen 55%, 25% and 15% expansions respectively.

More than 30% of this season’s exhibitors are first time participants. Visitors will be able to browse new products from both emerging talent and top brands including Ameico UK, Aurora World, Baa Baby, Banwood, Be Home Europe, Flamingueo, Flick Fashions, Fog Linen Work, Littlemore Candle Company, Natural by Hillbrush, Okkia, Paper Rose, Papier, Pickle Picnics, Pott Candles, SAHI London, Signare, The Somewhere Co., Widdop and Co., Wigiwama and many more. 

The newness continues in the Launchpad sector for those looking for freshest products and suppliers to hit the market.  Here will be a showcase of 35 new talents looking to make their mark, including Arcana Living, Fugafit, Ghost & Bonesetter, Kensho Heirlooms, Lolly & Kiks, Peachie, Plinthy, POTR Pots, Shaven Raven Designs, Sunshine Lane, and Tillie Rose Studio amongst a host of others. For many of these exhibitors, this is their first ever trade show.  Additionally, Top Drawer is continuing its partnership with the University of the Arts London, which will showcase hand-selected products from talented recent graduates who are eager to increase their brand exposure. 

What's also new in this Spring/Summer 2024 edition is the launch of the inaugural Spotlight Awards that will recognise the best in class products from across all sections of the event. 

The Spotlight Awards will highlight the Best New Product in the following categories: from Gift to Home, Fashion, Wellbeing, Launchpad, PLAY, Food, Craft, Greetings & Stationery as well as an Innovation in Design award for the Best Newcomer.

The judging panel is made up of industry experts including retailers, designers, and members of the Top Drawer team will select the winners for each category, with the results being announced at the show on Sunday 14th January, the first day of the fair.

Also new in this edition if the Top Drawer Product Pitch, which sees brands pitch their products one-on-one to retailers. 

Organisers say Top Drawer Spring 2024 visitors will be treated to its most diverse product offering yet, with over 25% of the floorplan playing host to brand new exhibitors making their show debut, adding that they are expanding the Greetings & Stationery and Wellbeing sections due to unprecedented demand at this Spring edition.

Show Manager David Westbrooke said: “Seeing such a huge increase in both sectors is testament to our campaign to deliver the best possible customer experience. Clarion Retail has long been known for its customer-first approach, and this has especially borne fruit over the last 12 months – not only are we expanding Top Drawer to keep up with demand, but Home & Gift 2024 is also already 75% sold after just 3 months! It’s certainly shaping up to be an exciting year!”

For retailers looking for inspiration and practical advice at this January fair, the newest and hottest trends will be on display courtesy of show partner The Better Trends Company, allowing buyers to discover what’s set to influence consumer habits and provide their next best-sellers for the coming months. 

RetailFest will once again hold a range of sessions covering the most pressing and important factors shopkeepers are set to face and the Business Hub is also set to return across all 3 days with an expanded line up of industry experts on hand to give tailored guidance to retailers to ensure they’re ready to hit the ground running this season.

A digital preview of Top Drawer S/S24 is now live and trade buyers and visitors can catch a glimpse pf the fair by clicking HERE.