Hello 2023!

We are welcoming 2023 with great hopes yet with measured anxiety as the last 12 months had been challenging, demanding and exhausting.  As the Prime Minister Rishi Sunak said in his year-end/new year message, UK's problems won't go away in 2023 after a "tough" 12 months.  But he promised the "very best of Britain" will be on display in the coming months.  Of course UK's problems are not unique.  World events have impacted all countries, brought on by ongoing anxiety from the unprecedented pandemic, the relentless war that Russia has unleashed onto Ukraine, and which compounded the global economic crisis we haven't seen in decades.

Nevertheless, as we said goodbye to 2022, we are wishing everyone a safe, peaceful, productive and prosperous 2023.  We can hope can't we, that things will get better.  Best of luck everyone.

Photo by Lucia Carpio, taken of a dreamy installation at the "Vision & Virtuosity" exhibition launched by Tiffany & Co at the Saatchi Gallery, London, in the summer of 2022.  

Dame Vivienne Westwood has died. She was 81

It is sad to learn another "Queen" has passed away in 2022.  

Dame Vivienne Westwood, you were the "Queen of Punk and British Fashion".  May you Rest In Peace.

After the death of the legendary designer was announced on Thursday, December 30th, Westwood's husband and creative partner Andreas Kronthaler said: "I will continue with Vivienne in my heart.

"We have been working until the end and she has given me plenty of things to get on with."

Now who will carry on the Westwood fashion House?  It has been reported that seasoned Welsh designer and close friend of Westwood Jeff Banks became a director of her company just before Christmas, when it was apparent Westwood was very ill. 

In 2022, we said goodbye to a number of luminaries of the fashion world, including Andre Leon Talley, the American fashion journalist, stylist, creative director and editor-at-large of Vogue magazine, Paris designer Thierry Mugler, and Japanese designer Issey Miyake.  And now Vivienne Westwood.

Season's Greetings and a Prosperous New Year to all

 

Photo by Lucia Carpio in East Sussex, UK, December 2022

Well 2022 has not turned out to be what we had hoped it would be in the end of 2021.  This time last year, in the midst of a Covid-restricted Christmas, we were still hopeful.  Hopeful for soon to gain freedom from viruses, freedom from lockdowns, freedom from poor health, stress and anxiety.  But in the last nearly 12 months, we have come to face new fears brought about fundamentally by the conflict in Ukraine because of Russia's aggression, and generally deteriorating confidence brought about by rising costs of living and energy, the state of the changing climate, and the amazingly difficult situations that lead to growing displacement of people around the world.

While many of us in this winter are in search of profound peace of mind, may we still hold on to hope and find peace and security during this "festive" time and celebrate with love, kindness and care for ourselves and our loved ones.  

From all of us to you, a Merry Christmas and optimistic prospects for better days in 2023! 

Menswear research project launched to study the connections between British and Italian Menswear

We all know how good the British tailors and mills are at producing quality menswear.  And likewise the Italians are good at making beautiful clothes too.  But what are the differences and similarities of the menswear industry between the two countries, and how they influence the way men dress today.

Vivienne Westwood double-breasted jacket, 1990s

So it is welcome news to learn that an international research network has been launched to investigate the cultural and industrial connections between London, Liverpool, Manchester, and Milan in Italy, and how they have influenced the production, display and consumption of British menswear.  The findings will be presented in an exhibition in February 2024 during London Fashion Week.

The study Locating Menswear is led by Professor Andrew Groves, Director of the Westminster Menswear Archive at the University of Westminster, and Jo Jenkinson from Manchester Fashion Institute at Manchester Metropolitan University, in partnership with C.P. Company, SEVENSTORE, UKFT and the British Fashion Council.

The international network is funded by the Arts and Humanities Research Council (AHRC), part of UK Research and Innovation (UKRI), and will host a series of workshops and events in the United Kingdom and Italy over the course of the next 16 months.

Pringle jumper, 1980s 

Professor Groves said: "Existing knowledge of British fashion from 1945 onwards has historically focused on designer womenswear to understand the fashioned body, while menswear has remained relatively unexamined, with little research into how it differs in its design, production, or consumption processes. 

"Menswear has been consistently under-researched and under-represented in dress collections, resulting in a distorted understanding of the history of British fashion and its locations of creation, production, display, and consumption."

Moschino tart card jeans

Jo Jenkinson said: "The network's objective is to expand the field of fashion research by bringing together an interdisciplinary network of scholars, practitioners, and fashion intermediaries, in order to begin identifying and addressing critical gaps in knowledge surrounding menswear."

Lorenzo Osti, President of C.P. Company, said: "Menswear has been a common language between British and Italian men for decades, as evidenced by C.P. Company's history. We are thrilled to be a part of this network, which provides us with a fantastic opportunity to share our knowledge, passion, and values in order to create a meaningful cultural exchange."

Gloverall Duffel coat, 1970s

Caroline Rush, Chief Executive of the British Fashion Council, said: "Menswear is a core part of the landscape of the UK fashion industry and vital to the BFC’s strategy to spotlight excellence in creativity innovation and design globally. Over the past 10 years since the launch of London Collections Men that legacy of menswear from tailoring to sportswear has exploded with talent, which is supported by brilliant craftsman, retailers, media, innovators from across the UK. This will be showcased at London Fashion Week in June 2023."

Daniel Milne, Head of Creative at SEVENSTORE in Liverpool, said: "Understanding the physical and digital spaces where menswear is encountered by the public through display and consumption is critical to understanding its history and planning for the industry's future. Liverpool has had an active and profound influence on the evolution of British menswear, and we are excited that this will be explored and celebrated as part of the network's activities."

The network builds on the research already undertaken by Professor Groves who established the Westminster Menswear Archive (WMA) in 2016 and co-curated the award-winning Invisible Men exhibition in 2019. The WMA holds over 2000 menswear garments from 1780 to the present day, including garments from A-COLD-WALL*, Ahluwalia, Aitor Throup, Alexander McQueen, Aquascutum, Barbour, Belstaff, Berghaus, BodyMap, Burberry, C.P. Company, Calvin Klein, Carol Christian Poell, Christian Dior, Comme Des Garcons, Craig Green, Helmut Lang, Jean Paul Gaultier, Joe Casely-Hayford, Kim Jones, Lewis Leathers, Liam Hodges, Martin Margiela, Massimo Osti, Meadham Kirchhoff, Nigel Cabourn, Palace, Paul Smith, Prada, Raf Simons, S.S.DALEY, Stone Island, Tommy Nutter, Umbro, Undercover, Vexed Generation and Vivienne Westwood.

The network's activities will be documented on Instagram at @locating menswear, and in February 2024, an exhibition highlighting the network's findings will be presented during London Fashion Week.

All images from SEVENSTORE

COSMOSS by Kate Moss collaborates with Amy Russell Taylor and Emma Lucy Knowles

Jewellery is not just for Christmas, but for year-round, soul-enhancing well-being.

Now COSMOSS, the beauty and wellbeing brand founded by Kate Moss, has joined forces with British jewellery designer, Amy Russell Taylor (founder of the A R T brand),  and together they have collaborated with crystal healer and expert, Emma Lucy Knowles, for their exclusive Oracle Dial necklace.

Kate Moss sporting three lengths of the Oracle Dial - bespoke crystal amulets that are now added to her curated COSMOSS product range.

The Oracle Dial is a handmade piece crafted from 100% recycled gold and silver with production "powered by 100% green and vegan energy. "  Each contains a triad of Blue Topaz, Prasiolite (green quartz) and Black Sapphire, set within a design that continuously flows with every movement of the body.

Available in three different sizes with chain lengths from 16” to 30”, each bespoke necklace can also be accompanied by the COSMOSS Sacred Mist and a Palo Santo Cleansing Stick for an energy-enhancing Gift Set. 

The Oracle Dial for COSMOSS is available exclusively at amyrusselltaylor.com.

Fred Perry X Gate194

British Clothing brand Fred Perry has collaborated with Berlin-based concept store GATE194 with a three-piece collection of hooded sweats and a printed Fred Perry polo shirt.

GATE194 add screen-printed design annotations and placeholder text to familiar Fred Perry pieces, highlighting their creative design process.

The collection is available in the GATE194 Berlin shop and website, as well as globally online via Fred Perry.

Gate is a system of spaces connecting fashion, art and music.  The store design and concept evolve  around the contrast between the synthetic and the organic, the digital and the analogue, between man and machine.

World colour authority Pantone has named Viva Magenta as the Colour of the Year 2023

Just when pink has been named a popular colour favoured by consumers this year (thanks to the Barbie trend), world colour authority Pantone has named Viva Magenta - a colour rooted in nature, descending from the red family and signals strength, vigour and optimism - as its Colour of 2023.

Pantone's 2023 colour of the year - Viva Magenta - is a "a carmine red."
Created in conjunction with an AI tool,  Midjourney, it is metaverse friendly.
Photo: Pantone

PANTONE 18-1750 Viva Magenta is regarded as brave and fearless, a pulsating colour whose exuberance promotes a joyous and optimistic celebration.  

Pantone says this colour is powerful and empowering. It is a new animated red that revels in pure joy, encouraging experimentation and self-expression without restraint, an electrifying, and a boundaryless shade that is manifesting as a stand-out statement. PANTONE 18-1750 Viva Magenta welcomes anyone and everyone with the same verve for life and rebellious spirit. It is a color that is audacious, full of wit and inclusive of all.

Leatrice Eiseman, Executive Director, Pantone Color Institute says, “In this age of technology, we look to draw inspiration from nature and what is real. PANTONE 18-1750 Viva Magenta descends from the red family, and is inspired by the red of cochineal, one of the most precious dyes belonging to the natural dye family as well as one of the strongest and brightest the world has known.

Rooted in the primordial, PANTONE 18-1750 Viva Magenta reconnects us to original matter. Invoking the forces of nature, PANTONE 18-1750 Viva Magenta galvanizes our spirit, helping us to build our inner strength.”

Ms Eiseman also says "The last few years were transformative in many ways in terms of people’s sense of self, and the way well- being, priorities and identity are being thought about. As a result, space has been created where we are free to explore and be accepted for exactly who we feel we are, whether it be in a cybernetic universe, a conventional space, or a magical blend of both."

Working with the AI tool Midjourney, Pantone is leveraging the bold magenta colour to explore a "Magentaverse" ecosystem, which will include immersive experiences in the colour world in partnership with interactive art exhibition company ARTECHOUSE. While the company has art spaces in Washington, DC and New York City, it will host the "Magentaverse" at its Miami Beach location. Beginning on Dec. 3, the immersive exhibition will be open to the public for the first time, with "immersive rooms with textures and interactions that plunge attendees into an array of visual, auditory, and tactile experiences."

Milana Hot Pink/Grey wallpaper by Olenka Design celebrates with the same vibrant hues,
verve for life and rebellious spirit as Pantone’s Viva Magenta.

Miu Miu is Brand of the Year while Diesel is Logo of the Year, according to Lyst's Year in Fashion 2022

Luxury UK-based retailer Lyst has released its Year in Fashion 2022 report, revealing the major brands and names that have been most sought-after by its 200 million plus fashion fans who have shopped on the company’s site in 2022.  The data generated by Lyst’s shoppers has enabled Lyst to analyse the stories that shaped the year in fashion.

Here is a list of the top names and winning trends in the various categories.

Brand Of The Year - Miu Miu

Logo Of The Year - Diesel

Trend Of The Year - Barbie (Pink) trend 

Collaboration Of The Year - Jacquemus x Nike

Shoe Of The Year - Birkenstock's Boston

Bag Of The Year - Prada's Re-nylon Re-edition 2000 mini bag

Fashion Show Of The Year - Demna's Haute Couture Show for Balenciaga

Royal Fashion Moment Of The Year - Richard Quinn SS23 Collection dedicated to 

     Queen Elizabeth II

TikTok Aesthetic Of The Year - 'Weird Girl' aesthetic

Digital Fashion Moment Of The Year - Lacoste x Minecraft collaboration

Brand To Watch - LUAR

To learn more about the key drivers of fashion in 2022 and insights - from the world's amazing obsession with all things pink to the unstoppable rise of Bella Hadid, you can visit lyst.com.

Katie Grand to receive the Isabella Blow Award for Fashion Creator on December 5th; Trophy for BFC Fashion Awards 2022 designed by Yinka Ilori, featuring a SkyDiamond

Katie Grand commented: “I’m delighted to accept this award.
The legacy Issy Blow left behind and everything she
brought to fashion has always been a massive inspiration to me.”

Katie Grand will receive the Isabella Blow Award for Fashion Creator at The Fashion Awards 2022 presented by Diet Coke, on Monday 5th December at the Royal Albert Hall, London. Katie will be honoured for her incredible contribution to culture, art, and fashion which has made her one of the most exciting creative visionaries of our time.

In her role as a highly regarded stylist and creative consultant, Grand has worked on some of the most style-defining shows and campaigns of recent years, working with Prada, Miu Miu, Giles Deacon, Marc Jacobs, Bottega Veneta, Matty Bovan and Tomo Koizumi. 

After vanguard work as Fashion Director of Dazed and The Face magazines and launch editor of Another, her magazine portfolio includes the further launch of three wildly influential titles: Perfect, Love and Pop. 

Since 2020, she has worked with Sarabande, the emerging artists Foundation established by Alexander McQueen.

Grand has been credited for bridging the gap between counterculture and luxury fashion, having discovered and raise many era-defining creatives, models, photographers, writers and designers’ careers, including Cara Delevingne, Mert & Marcus, Rasharn Agyemang, Kendall Jenner, Zhonglin and Alasdair McLellan. Highlights from her professional life have recently been collated in the volume, Tears and Tearsheets, published this year in a spirit of independence to which she remains true.

The Isabella Blow Award for Fashion Creator recognises the very best innovators and creatives in fashion, celebrating invaluable contributions that have changed the entire fashion landscape. 

The Trophy for BFC Fashion Awards 2022 presented by Diet Coke

 is designed by Yinka Illori, featuring a SkyDiamond

Multi-disciplinary artist and designer Yinka Illori has worked with ethical and environmentally friendly jewellery company SkyDiamond and glass design studio The Glass Foundry to create the trophy for The Fashion Awards 2022 presented by Diet Coke. The ceeremony will take place on Monday 5th December 2022, at The Royal Albert Hall, London.

Dale Vince OBE, Founder of SkyDiamond said: “This is the first time in the history of the Awards that each individual trophy is embedded with a diamond. And not just any diamond but a diamond made from the sky.
SkyDiamonds are the rarest diamonds on the planet making the trophies even more unique.”
Fiaz Elson, The Glass Foundry Founder said: “'We are proud to realise this stunning design, showcasing the unique qualities of glass as a natural material and working with SkyDiamond
towards making beautiful objects that don't cost the Earth”.

Made up of multi-coloured glass spears which represent the many creative roles within the fashion industry, the trophy, which demonstrates Yinka Ilori’s signature work with colour, tells a story of the power of fashion at the intersection of culture. 

New this year, each trophy is embedded with an ethical and environmentally friendly diamond made conflict-free using renewable energy from SkyDiamond.

The trophy, which was manufactured by hand at The Glass Foundry in the UK. in the Cotswolds, spotlights the necessity of creative collaboration and eco-innovation and demonstrates how design can bring together communities and have a positive impact on society, evoking a sense of joy and optimism.

Yinka Illori, Multi-Disciplinary Artist and Designer said: "Working with SkyDiamond and The Glass Foundry, we have built a sculptural trophy made from clustered glass. The trophy represents the energy and synergy between designers and celebrates a sense of togetherness. This trophy also symbolises the power of culture seen in today’s industry. It is a celebration of the designers who acknowledge and honour their individualism and heritage through their work. I hope that it will serve as a powerful message for all the winners."

Shoppers are hunting for energy-saving bargains this Christmas; Gen Z and millennials are going for "Buy Now, Pay Later"

According to new research announced this November by the research platform quantilope, more than a quarter (28%) of consumers plan to buy products to help save on their energy bills this winter, while a third (34%) are looking for basic essentials for themselves or their family.

"Sheep" and "Duck" blankets, made with a pure wool and cotton (80%/20%) blend, measuring 130 x 180 cm from J.J. Textile, an independent business based in Derbyshire, UK., known for their cosy blankets, cushion covers and throws in their original designs.

Quantilope executives said shoppers today are planning to hunt for energy-saving bargains, including blankets and small space heaters. According to new research announced today by quantilope, the research platform that automates advanced research methodologies, more than a quarter (28%) of shoppers plan to buy products to help save on their energy bills this winter, while a third (34%) will look for basic essentials for themselves or their family.

The rising cost of living is clearly having a big impact, with a quarter of those surveyed abstaining from Black Friday shopping saying that inflation has affected their discretionary spending.

The research platform that automates advanced research methodologies had recently surveyed 400 consumers in the UK (and 400 in the US) to understand more about their Black Friday shopping habits and how they plan to pay for their purchases. 

Rainbow Stripe Wool Blanket Throw
measuring 150 x 183 cm and cushion, all made
with 100% pure new wool
from Cushy Home & Style, a 
family-run business based in
Taunton, Somerset, UK.

A quarter of consumers said they were avoiding Black Friday this year, with the majority saying there is nothing they need to buy on a Black Friday deal (64%). Nearly half (46%) thought Black Friday was over-hyped and one in ten said it stressed them out. 

Alex Hall, Associate Director at quantilope, says. “(Black Friday) is a time when people usually look for deals on gifts for themselves and their families ahead of Christmas. While this still holds true this year, we’re also seeing substantial metrics for those stocking up on basic essentials, items for the household, and even energy-reducing items. This might signal the start of a changed perception about Black Friday.”

The ‘Buy Now, Pay Later’ generations

Additionally quantilope’s research revealed that younger shoppers are planning to use "Buy Now, Pay Later" (BNPL) services – perhaps so that they don’t miss out on any Black Friday bargains that could save them money in the longer term. While around a quarter of all consumers (26%) plan to use BNPL in the UK, this rises significantly among younger generations, with 40% of Gen Z (between age 12 and 25) and 36% of millennials planning to do so.

This is backed up by new research from McKinsey & Company, which indicates that BNPL services are becoming increasingly popular as the cost of living crisis worsens and people turn to shopping on credit. 

It also states that millennials and Gen Z are more likely to use BNPL in the coming months.

“This is further evidence that the current economic climate impacts what shoppers buy and how they plan to pay for it. But what’s really interesting is that as well as people planning to buy on no interest credit services like BNPL as well as credit cards, cash is also still a common form of payment. Despite the rise in contactless payments, one-in-four shoppers in the UK are planning to pay for their Black Friday purchases in cash”, adds quantilope’s Alex Hall.

Hussein Chalayan's award-winning sculptural tableware in new Karaca store in London

Turkish homeware brand Karaca has opened its first store in the UK this November, in North London’s Islington Square.  

Images L-R: Karaca X Chalayan Limited Edition Tableware Collection; Karaca Home 4 Elements 100% Turkish Cotton Bedspread Set; Karaca Stainless Steel Induction Cookware 

Occupying a curated space spanning 2,641sq ft. designed with reclaimed wooden pallets, the store is offering an emporium of more than a thousand design-led high-quality home products, ranging from everyday living to luxury pieces, including tableware, cookware, bedding, home accessories and small appliances just in time for this festive season.

Hussein Chalayan MBE's limited edition tableware collection for KARACA is crafted from ground pearl. 
The items are designed to nest and slot together to create sculptural compositions. 

Among its most notable high-end homewares will be a limited edition of sculptural tableware collection designed by UK-based visionary award-winning fashion designer Hussein Chalayan**.  Crafted from ground pearl, which is a specialty of Karaca, Chalayan's tableware collection was formally launched in September 2022 at the Design London trade fair, combining beauty of form with functionality that won it the accolade Wallpaper* Design Awards 2022. 

The tableware collection encompasses two six-piece sets, for dinner and breakfast, featuring items that fit together in architecturally inspired forms.  

The Digital Pearl single dinnerware set, made in ground pearl, exhibits Chalayan’s artistic vision. Each piece stacks together perfectly to create an eye-catching pyramid, that’s both functional and contemporary. 

The Poly Breakfast set, made from porcelain and in white, black, and beige, reflects Chalayan’s modern perspective. The concentric circles allow plates and cups to be linked with one another in different ways, giving consumers the creative freedom to shape their breakfast table according to taste.

Chalayan comments: “Our idea with this collection was to foster a playful and interactive relationship between the user and the form. The Digital Pearl set can be used vertically where the plates and cups overlap to form a pyramid shape. Setting the pyramid on your table adds an architectural, graphic dimension to your dining experience. Meanwhile, The Poly Breakfast set is an interweaved collection. The products can be combined and displayed in a multitude of ways, each time creating different shapes and forms depending on the preference of the individual.”

Karaca has set its sights on growth on a global scale, while it now operates from over 375 dedicated stores and more than 1,100 concessions in Europe and around the world. 

Cihangir Çetintırnak, Managing Director UK at Karaca said: “As we look to debut our first store in the UK, we are excited to start our bricks-and-mortar journey in one of London’s most dynamic retail destinations. Having grown our business here online, we are confident that opening in Islington Square is the right next step for our brand’s evolution as we meet our customers in person and offer our world class homeware in a first-class space.” 

**Born in Nicosia, Cyprus, Hussein Chalayan graduated from London's Central St Martins College of Art and Design in 1993 and his graduation collection was bought in its entirety by British fashion boutique Browns to exhibit in their window. He soon established his independent design label in 1994 and by 1997 was designing TSE's New York Collection. 

Chalayan's contribution to the fashion industry is widely recognised. Twice voted British Designer of the Year, Chalayan was named one of the top 100 fashion icons of all time by Time Magazine, and in June 2006, he was awarded an MBE. His work appears in some of the most famous museums in the world, including London's Victoria and Albert Museum, and the Design Museum. He has won fans of bold fashion, from Björk to Lady Gaga. He was appointed Head of Fashion at the University of Applied Arts Vienna in 2014, a post he held for five years.

Images courtesy of Karaca

Paris leading fashion store Printemps unveils Christmas windows on behalf of LOEWE

The launch ceremony of Paris Printemps Haissmann's Christmas shop window sponsored by the fashion house of LOEWE, was co-hosted by French actress ISABELLE HUPPERT and catwalk supremo NAOMI CAMPBELL, 
alongside Jean-Marc Bellaiche, CEO of PRINTEMPS.

For more than 155 years, Printemps Hausmann in Paris has been the ultimate shopping destination during the festive season in the celebrated City of Lights. The iconic store's enchanting Christmas window display is a true benchmark, and every year delights several million people passing by the Boulevard Haussmann in Paris.

This year, for the holiday season at Printemps, Santa Claus is playing the role of Ringmaster “Monsieur Loyal” and bringing his troupe along for an extravagant tour of shows that will amaze kids and adults alike.

In the meantime, Printemps is going international, having already announced its upcoming opening, in the Spring of 2024, in the historic 50 story landmark building at 1 Wall Street, in New York City, bringing the French Touch to the Big Apple, and making this new spot a fashion reference.

This new address will be part of Printemps’ international development, following the launch of the English version of the Printemps.com website.

The website is available in the UK and is devoted to its British customers, with prices indicated in pounds sterling. Personal stylists and customer services are happy to help in English, when contacted.

Diet Coke is principal partner for the British Fashion Council Fashion Awards 2022

The British Fashion Council (BFC) as announced Diet Coke as the Principal Partner of The Fashion Awards 2022. The BFC and Diet Coke will work together to evolve The Fashion Awards as a global entertainment platform, celebrating fashion's role at the intersection of culture.

 The iconic Fashion Awards Red Carpet will be a focal point, with Diet Coke bringing the experience and excitement to a global audience via a LIVE broadcast on YouTube. 

The partnership builds on Diet Coke’s recent collaboration with London Fashion Week presented by Clearpay (LFW), and the brand’s launch of its "Love What You Love" global campaign. This year also marks Diet Coke’s 40th anniversary and the appointment of global icon and style visionary, Kate Moss, taking the helm as Creative Director of the brand.

The Fashion Awards presented by Diet Coke will provide global streaming, platform amplification and bespoke content creation, celebrating the role of fashion in self-expression, escapism, and optimism and its positioning at the intersection of culture. 

The Fashion Awards Red Carpet LIVESTREAM served by Diet Coke will be broadcasted on The British Fashion Council YouTube account, Monday 5th December 2022 at 6:15PM GMT. 

Interested to watch all of the evening's major highlight moments, you can subscribe to @TheBritishFashionCouncil and follow #FashionAwards on YouTube for news and updates.

Additional activities on the night will include the Diet Coke Glambot, an iconic part of The Fashion Awards Red Carpet that captures all the guests glamorous looks live in front of the splendour of The Royal Albert Hall as well as exclusive interviews and behind-the-scenes content with guests, performers and hosts. The line-up for additional entertainment including red-carpet performances, presenters and hosts will be revealed in the coming weeks.

Caroline Rush, BFC Chief Executive, commented: “We are thrilled to welcome Diet Coke as the Principal Partner of The Fashion Awards 2022. Diet Coke is a brand synonymous with fashion, design, and style, and its heritage of collaborating with some of the world’s leading fashion houses and creators is impressive. As The Fashion Awards return on December 5th, we look forward to working with Diet Coke on celebrating all the exceptional individuals and businesses that have made significant contributions to the global fashion community this year.”

Omar Sadiq-Baig, Senior Brand Manager at The Coca‑Cola Company, commented: “For the last 40 years, Diet Coke has brought the love and joy of fashion to fans through unique collaborations with some of the world’s biggest names in fashion and culture. Appearing backstage and in front rows, Diet Coke has become synonymous with the fashion industry. The Fashion Awards is one of the most anticipated moments in the global calendar and we are incredibly proud and excited to be the principal partner at this year’s iconic event.”

This year, award categories include Designer of the Year, Model of the Year, Independent British Brand, and The BFC Foundation Award – the winners will be revealed on the night. The 2022 accolades also include fifteen Leaders of Change; the designers, brands, creatives, and individuals who created positive change within the fashion industry this past year under three categories: Environment, People, and Creativity. These will be revealed live during the show. Other awards include The Isabella Blow Award for Fashion Creator and The Outstanding Achievement Award. Jefferson Hack will receive a Special Recognition Award for Cultural Curation for empowering youth through creativity and for creating countless opportunities for next-generation creatives. 

Additionally, the event will recognise 50 of the most innovative and inspiring young creative talent from around the world as part of NEW WAVE: Creatives.

The Fashion Awards presented by Diet Coke raises funds for the BFC Foundation (Registered Charity Number: 1185152) which supports the future growth and success of the British fashion industry by focusing on Talent, Education, Grant-Giving and Business Mentoring and aims to improve equality and opportunity so that the fashion industry remains diverse and open to all, helping talented designers at all stages of their career from school level through to becoming a global fashion brand. In the financial year 2021/2022, the BFC remitted over £1.3m in funds to designers and scholars.

The BFC also acknowledges the generosity and commitment of their partners, suppliers and supporters alongside their Principal Partner: Diet Coke; including Official Partners: Getty Images, Malfy Gin, Moët & Chandon, Royal Salute and The Londoner.

General tickets for The Fashion Awards presented by Diet Coke 2022 are available here.

Ralph Lauren and Fortnite form partnership while Levi's collaborates with Adish

American fashion brand Ralph Lauren has collaborated with online video game Fortnite for digital and physical collections. 

Inspired by Ralph Lauren’s “1992 Stadium” collection, the iconic streetwear line infused with the world of auto-racing and aviation, with heritage '90s styles.

The set includes new Outfits, Back Blings, and more to inspire in the face of any challenge, and are available in the Fortnite Item Shop.

To celebrate this partnership between Fortnite and Polo Ralph Lauren, Polo Ralph Lauren has released a physical Polo Ralph Lauren x Fortnite Capsule. “Drop #1” releases today contains apparel featuring a special Polo x Llama logo and custom embroidery. “Drop #2” releases on 1 December and contains apparel featuring the Polo x Llama logo and a Fortnite-ified take on Polo Stadium’s design elements.

Levi's collaborates with Israeli-Palestinian clothing brand Adish

Meanwhile US clothing and jeans company Levi's has collaborated with Adish, an Israeli-Palestinian-owned brand that pairs contemporary silhouettes with traditional Palestinian craft techniques. This first partnership between the two brands is composed of deadstock Levi's Chore jackets and Original 501 upcycled through the application of Palestinian Tatreez hand embroidery and Bedouin hand weaving created by communities of women artisans in occupied Palestine and Israel.

Each garment is unique and features patterns reflecting daily life in Palestine: domestic items, farm animals, olive harvest, and life events such as marriage and mourning, evoking sentimental memories of the smells, flavours, and sounds that inspire the Adish brand. 

The capsule collection includes four one-of-a-kind gender-neutral products including Levi's 501 Original jeans: a Limited edition of the iconic Levi's 501 reimagined by Adish, featuring several embroideries representing various local geographical areas and a special green Levi's Tab. Made of a cotton and hemp blend, available in classic ecru and indigo with bronze paisley all-over print. 

The Levi's by Adish collection is available online on Levi.com  and in-store at Levi's London Haus and Levi's Milan Pop-up shop, as well as selected wholesalers.

This Christmas, choose gifts that are kind to our planet

Now that we have turned back the clock in the UK and can feel a chill in the air, we may be starting to plan for Christmas. 

With growing awareness of the devastating effects climate change has on our planet, a number of companies have been set up specifically to focus on preserving and conserving our resources.  They have created products that would be ideal as gifts for friends and family who are keen to play a part in being kind to the environment and help save the planet.

Trashy Bags Africa is a UK-owned, Ghana-based commercial social enterprise that identified a function for the waste caused by water sachets. 

Poppy Dent, Operations Director, explained that while water sachets are the largest source of safe drinking water in Ghana, they cause waste hazards when discarded after use.

Much like any other single use plastics, these plastic water sachets have become a big problem across Africa because of the lack of recycling initiatives and waste management infrastructure. This is when Trashy Bags Africa recognised that the sachets can be transformed into durable and sustainable products directly from the raw materials.

The range includes rucksack, pencil case, cosmetic case, collapsible shopping bag, laptop sleeve and tote bag. 

Water sachets are the largest source of safe drinking water in Ghana

With up to 70 sachets being used for each bag and any waste left over from the process being recycled into plastic pellets, Trashy Bags Africa is promoting a “Trade Not Aid” approach.

The rucksack, for example, measures 38 x 30 x 12 cm and is made using more than 50 individual used water sachets. The reverse of the rucksack is made from offcuts of fabric to ensure comfort. 

The Trashy "Smart" Bag measures 42 x 32 x 15cm (unfolded) or 22 x 16 x 4 cm when folded into its own base making it convenient and practical.  It is made from over 64 used water sachets, and can carry up to 18kg.

While the Pencil Case is made from over 16 used water sachets, the Cosmetic Bag is made from 48 used water sachets.  The bags are all light and can be compressed down when not in use.

Poppy says all their products are upcycled from the reclaimed plastic sachets and are not reprocessed in any way apart from cleaning, ensuring very little energy is used to add value to a material that would otherwise end up in landfill or burnt.

Each month nearly 200,000 plastic sachets are collected by a network of commercial enterprises, each obtaining an income from their efforts, now giving value to waste. 

Trashy Bags Africa have collected and recycled over 30 million sachets since they started in 2007, and today employ over 30 full-time local people, to design, clean & stitch plastic trash into fashionable and useful bags and other products. 

All Trashy Bag Africa products are available to purchase via their Etsy Shop.

All photos © Lucia Carpio 2022.  Photos above were photographed at Top Drawer trade fair, London,, September 2022. 

Another British company, Wool-Pots.co.uk has been resourceful in converting otherwise discarded wool into sustainable pots for plants, which will be perfect as gifts for gardening enthusiasts.

Wool Pots on show during Wool Month 2022 in the UK in October 2022.
Photo © Lucia Carpio 2022

Founders of Wool-Pots.co.uk say their Wool Pots offer a biodegradable, environmentally friendly and sustainable alternative to plastic plant pots, and will help reduce the amount of single use plastic in horticulture.  Manufactured in the UK and Egypt, the end use of Wool Pots mean wastage is minimal.  

The product was created to help farmers reduce the vast amount of unwanted wool and help save the planet.

According to the founders, Wool-Pots.co.uk was formed after they discovered that some 500 million plastic plant pots were reportedly being sent to landfill in the UK every year.  Meanwhile British farmers, in despair, are burning their wool because they have no viable market for their fleeces.  With these two challenges in mind Wool Pots have been created as a viable alternative to plastic pots and a huge benefit to the planet.

"We have friends who farm sheep and it gives us huge pride to continue the British tradition of product innovation and creativity to help them create a new market for their wool, said founder Graham.  "Our Egyptian factory plants two trees for every order under their 'buy one get one tree' re-greening the desert initiative and our Scottish factory reduces transport miles for UK orders and promotes British manufacturing.

For unique home gifts for eco-conscious home-makers, Danish brand Mumutane utilise sustainable textiles for their range of home products featuring traditional African prints presented with Nordic minimalism. Founder Maria Kastrup Lausten sources leftover fabrics from Kvadrat (a Danish textile company that produces and supplies textiles and textile-related products), creating unique cushion covers with a good balance of modern cross-cultural mix.

Maria Kastrup Lausten 

Cushions with African wax print in a Nordic setting

In relaying her brand’s sustainable journey as well as the importance of incorporating a social impact aspect, Maria said African wax print textiles contain many tales and stories of life in Africa, which give the products a special dimension and story.  Every cushion is unique, with the front made of wax print textile sourced from small, local textile shops in West Africa, and the back is made of high-quality wool-blended leftover textiles.

Padded "quiltet"

The environment and social responsibility agenda together with the “give work philosophy” is a mindset that is rooted in the core of the strategy of Mumutane, which became certified as a B Corporation in 2021, said Maria.

Table cloth in African print

Maria added their objective is to create “products with purpose”, which is why Mumutane has a sustainable approach with a focus on minimising textile waste, improving work conditions in low-income countries and supporting production with social conscious and impact.

Images courtesy of Mumutane who exhibited at Design London held at Magazine London in north Greenwich in September 2022.

Texworld Evolution Paris welcomes the return of Asian participants in February 2023

 Texworld Evolution Paris is back next February from  6 to 8, with a complete edition welcoming back the physical presence of Asian participants. The fair will take place at its usual venue at Le Bourget, north Paris.

Exhibiting textiles will be companies of Indonesia companies such as Daliatex, as well as Taiwanese manufacturers such as Rorica and Convertec in embroidery, or Hi-Tec Industries in knitwear. 

Turkey and Korea will be represented by their respective national pavilions, in partnership with the official trade institutions of both countries, namely the Istanbul Chamber of Commerce for Turkey, and the KOFOTI for Korea.

On the apparel side, the textile fair will see an exceptional physical presence of Chinese companies, which had been notably missed in the last two years, and other economies including Bangladesh, Hong Kong, Pakistan and Sri Lanka which were not able to participate in February 2022. 

Organisers at Messe Frankfurt Paris say India's presence will be significant, especially through a group of garment manufacturers brought by the institution Texprocil, and Mongolia will be represented by Munkh, a manufacturer of high-end products made from Cashmere.

Contemporary abstract portraiture Vladinsky returns to London at HOFA Gallery

London’s HOFA Gallery is to unveil 18 new and never-before-seen artworks by Romanian abstract portraiture painter Vladinsky at a solo exhibition titled"Revealing Obscura" between November 3 and 17 2022.

The forthcoming show will be the artist’s second solo exhibition in London following the previous year’s highly successful and sold-out exhibition "Fragments".

Observer 690, 2022. Oil on canvas (127 x 127 cm)

"Revealing Obscura" delves into the artist's new techniques and ideas developed during the previous year, commenting on a shift in philosophical perspective that has also influenced the forms within the 'Observer' series.

Observer 744, 2022. Oil on canvas (147 x 147 cm)

Flat layers of paint obscure the underlying figures, creating a new form and a renewed sense of mystery that precisely completes the imagery of this highly regarded contemporary practice. It represents an important juncture in the evolution of contemporary art as changes in our world have deeply influenced our senses of freedom and creative expression.

Observer 657, 2022. Oil on canvas (139 x 176 cm)

Vladinsky was born in Romania, in the city of Onesti in the Moldovan region in 1988. From a young age, he grew fascinated by art, living in a country that had just survived communism.

He is resolved to become one of the world's top visual artists; this objective made him rapidly realise that this may only be attained with hard effort and exercise, leading to the creation of the now famous and ongoing "Observer" series.

The spontaneity with which he completes the paintings bearing his mark is the result of a lengthy period of research into the human condition and naturally ideal forms of existence within society.

In "Revealing Obscura", the artist also celebrates the milestone in his journey to 1,000 'Observer' paintings however, (a few showcased here) while reaching this point Vladinsky sensed a lack of command over his work, which inspired the artist to pursue the most natural path possible ahead: Vladinsky says "To let go when you feel you have to."

The artist has expressed his belief that conflict and overall hostile forces have a profound effect on the human psyche. In current times, the artist has also noted that his artistic independence and power of expression are under threats of repression; our current socioeconomic status quo directly inspired the new compositional features in the latest assortment of 'Observer' artworks.

Images from HOFA Gallery.

Retailers face a challenging Christmas shopping season, says KPMG research

Now with a new Prime Minister (yes, another one) ushered in, the economic and political climate in the UK should for the time being calm down and stabilise, we hope, and we can start thinking about Christmas which is just around the corner. 

A wide selection of vintage inspired Christmas decorative items and gifts available at LiveLaughLove.co.uk

In the face of a global economic and financial crisis, this year’s Christmas shopping season could be marred by the rising prices as consumers count their pennies.  But new research suggests Black Friday sales and the World Cup are expected to boost food sales alongside Christmas gift buying despite the cost of living crisis in November and December.

A new research by KPMG/Ipsos Retail Think Tank (RTT) members suggests that while UK consumers contend with rising energy bills and interest rates, retailers face a "challenging" Christmas shopping period, with the health of the sector seeing its biggest "golden quarter decline" since 2011.

The latest assessment revealed the health of the retail sector is expected to decline by two points to 70 points in the final quarter of this year. (See  RTT original report HERE.)

Pop Up advent calendar available at Victoria and Albert Museum Shop.

As reported by Yahoo!Finance on 25th October 2022, that is a drop in Christmas trading not seen since 2011 where growing uncertainty in the European and global markets kept consumer confidence low.

According to the Retail Health Index (RHI), a combination of pressure on margins, rising costs and shaky consumer demand are predicted to produce the difficult trading environment.

Create a festive living room with a wide selection of Christmas trees and decorative accessories 
from Dobbies.com
All Dobbies’ trees are sustainably grown from specially selected seeds, taken from hand-picked cones which have been left to dry and nurtured into seedlings.

Paul Martin, head of retail at KPMG in the UK commented: "The health of the retail sector continues to slowly deteriorate, and it has been over a decade since we have seen a two point drop in the health index during the vital golden quarter." 

The economic and political turmoil are yet to "trickle down" to consumers, according to Martin, who added that while economic and political uncertainty influence the health of the retail sector, the usual festive boost will not be enough this year to counteract the ongoing issues that retailers are facing with rising costs, squeezed margins and fall back in demand.

Christmas hamper featuring Prosecco, Yankee Candles and
Chocolates from FunkyHampers.com

However consumers will still want to enjoy Christmas, with many choosing to spend on hospitality and enjoying time with friends and family.

"Many will be looking to trade down, search out bargains and purchase less – but Christmas is by no means cancelled – despite the mood music around an impending recession," said Martin.

But the RTT noted Black Friday (November 25th 2022) sales and the World Cup (November 20th to December 18th 2022) are expected to boost food sales alongside Christmas gift buying despite the cost of living crisis this November and December.

Heimtextil is back on track in January 2023

Come January 2023 10 to 13, 2023, Heimtextil, the international platform in Frankfurt for home and contract textiles, interior design and trends at the start of the 2023/24 season will be back in full swing.

Heimtextile image.

Organisers at Messe Frankfurt say demand from exhibitors is strong and once again the show will cover the entire spectrum of global suppliers of home and contract textiles. To date, more than 2,200 international exhibitors have registered for the event. This figure represents some three quarters of the number of exhibitors at the pre-pandemic level in 2020.  

Last summer, during the one-time Heimtextil Summer Special, the industry's great need for personal encounters, tactile impressions and creative input became apparent. The next Heimtextil, leading international trade fair for home and contract textiles, will start the new season as the first event of the year from January 10 to 13, 2023.

Among the participators are companies from all over the world, such as ADVANSA Marketing GmbH (D), Alfred Apelt GmbH (Germany), Aznar Textil, SL (E), Essenza Home (Netherlands), Gul Ahmed Textile Mills Ltd. (Pakistan), Lameirinho - Indústria Têxtil, S.A. (Portugal), Lenzing AG (Austria), Marburger Tapetenfabrik (Germany), Norvigroup Denmark A/S (Denmark), Microcotton Inc (US), OBB Oberbadische Bettfedernfabrik GmbH (Germany), Standard Fiber LLC (US), Tanriverdi Mensucat San. A.S.(Turkey), Trendart (Switzerland), Trevira GmbH (Germany), Trident Limited (India), Velamen S.A. (Spain) and Zorel Tekstil (Turkey).  However Chinese suppliers are still struggling with planning uncertainties, say the organisers.

Textiles Matter: Heimtextil Trends 23/24 define the future of home and contract textiles

According to the Heimtextil Trend Preview 23/24, presented by the UK-based Futures research agency Franklin Till, under the heading “Textiles Matter”, the focus is on circularity, setting the benchmark for tomorrow’s forward-facing and sustainable textile furnishing.

The Heimtextil Trends show ways in which the international textile industry which obtains raw materials from a broad spectrum of sources, can use various processes to make utilise and develop sustainable products.  In the Trends Space at the fair, visitors can explore concepts for increased circularity, which will generate new impulses for the sustainable market of the future.

Franklin Till’s materials-first approach spotlights on the full textile life cycle, from fibre cultivation to afterlife, and is rooted in circularity.  Under four trend directional themes, namely Make and Remake, Continuous, From Earth and Nature Engineered, "Textile Matter" will provide inspiring concepts for a better, greener, kinder textiles industry, offering orientation and insights into the future of home and contract textiles for visitors from all over the world.

Under the theme Make and Remake, pre-used materials, deadstock and remnant textiles are given a new lease of life with the focus shifting to the aesthetics of repair and taking the form of a specific design element of the recycled product. Bright and joyful colours and techniques, such as overprinting, overdyeing, bricolage, collage and patchwork, result in new and creative products. Layered colour patterns and graphics lead to bold and maximalist, yet conscious, designs.

Next, the Continuous trend theme describes closed-loop systems in which materials are recycled into new, waste-free products again and again. Putative waste materials are separated out and reprocessed as new fibres, composites and textiles. Thus, synthetic and cellulose yarns can be produced zero-waste. Thanks to technically advanced reclamation processes, the materials retain their original quality and aesthetic. Practicality, essentialism and longevity determine the design of Continuous products.

The From Earth theme focuses on the natural world and harmony with the nature of organic materials. Natural colours communicate warmth and softness. Imperfect textures, signs of wear and irregularities create ecological and earth-born aesthetics. Earthen and botanic shades, natural variation and tactile richness dominate the From Earth segment. Unrefined and raw surfaces, unbleached textiles and natural dyes celebrate materials in their original states.

Finally, Nature Engineered is a reinterpretation of the concept of “natural”, using mechanical means to elevate and perfect organic materials, such as bast fibres, hemp, linen and nettles. Cutting-edge techniques process natural textiles into sophisticated and smart products. Combined with shades of beige and brown, clean lines and shapes are the distinguishing features of this theme.