Friday, 26 October 2018

Laces from Maison Darquer in key art works and designs around Europe

Thanks to the initiative of its artistic director - the Paris design supremo Stéphane Plassier - laces manufactured by the celebrated French lace mill Maison Darquer (established since 1840) are currently on show in several international museums as impressive installations and works of art.

At the Guggenheim Bilbao in Spain - until 11th November 2018
Project made possible with the support of Maison Darquer.
Photo: Luis Vasconcelos
The Guggenheim Museum Bilbao presents the first anthological exhibition in Spain dedicated to Portuguese designer Joana Vasconcelos (born in Paris in 1971).

The monumental work Egeria shown above was specially designed for the Atrium of the Guggenheim Museum Bilbao, where it will interact with the architecture of Frank Gehry, as well as with the exterior through the large windows glazed.  It is one of the most ambitious of the important set of Valkyries, which Vasconcelos created inspired by female characters of Scandinavian mythology, among which these include the Palazzo Grassi in Venice, the Palace of Versailles, the ARoS Aarhus Kunstmuseum and the Tel Aviv Museum of Art.

Other works also featuring Maison Darquer divine laces ...

At MAD Brussels from 23rd November until 12th January 2019

Photo : Dominique Maitre

Works made by second year student at La Cambre Arts Visuels with the support of Maison Darquer
































And at the City of Lace and Fashion ( Cité de la Dentelle et de la Mode) in Calais, France - until 6th January 2019
Photo courtesy of La Cité de la Dentelle et de la Mode, in Calais, France
Close up of a dress designed by Bertrand Guillon (artistic director of fashion house Schiaparelli) with Tears & Lace  from Maison Darquer. 

Established in 1840, Darquer Dentelle is the oldest manufacturer of Calais and Caudry lace in France.   The quality and refinement of its products are testaments to its brilliant history of creativity and savoir-faire in Haute Couture, Prêt-à-Porter, and most recently, luxury lingerie.

Hong Kong's Victoria Harbour lit up by 100 choreographed drones

The 10th CCB (Asia) Hong Kong Wine and Dine Festival has opened.  The
 Victoria Harbour lit up by 100 choreographed drones to celebrate event’s 10th birthday
What an attractive picture of Hong Kong, provided by the Hong Kong Tourism Board (HKTB),
organiser of the CCB (Asia) Hong Kong Wine and Dine Festival that opened on October 25 2018.

Organised with China Construction Bank (Asia) as the title sponsor for the fifth consecutive year, this year the HKTB  arranged the first-ever drone performance over Victoria Harbour to celebrate the 10th edition of the event.

After the ceremony, the officiating guests witnessed Hong Kong’s first choreographic drone performance by 100 drones over the famous Victoria Harbour. The seven-minute performance displayed various patterns and animations, including the number “10” and birthday cakes against the breathtaking backdrop of Victoria Harbour.

This edition of the Hong Kong Wine and Dine Festival is the largest to date, with the event venue extended from the Central Harbourfront Event Space to Tamar Park to accommodate about 450 booths serving fine wines and exquisite food.

A host of new party elements, such as a gigantic birthday cake for selfies and a “Super Time” prize offer, are featured during this year’s event. Visitors and locals can also enjoy various limited edition wines, as well as some of Hong Kong’s most popular coffees and street eats in the new “Coffee Fiesta” and “International Street Eats” zones during the four day event October 25 - 28.


Wednesday, 24 October 2018

Lyst Index: Off-White is hottest global brand

In Paris, at the Roger Vivier
SS2019 presentation.
Photo by Francois Durand/Getty Images For Roger Vivier 


Today we’re seeing a growing alliance not only between fashion and sport but also between luxury and sport, leading to the term “athluxury” - a blend of ‘athletic’ and ‘luxury’ - according to Pascal Monfort, fashion expert and founder of REC Trends Marketing, a specialist in sports, youth and street culture.
Photo © Lucia Carpio 2018
Presenting a series of conferences on Sport &Tech at the Autumn 2018 edition of Premiere Vision Paris in September, Pascal Monfort said: “The inclusion of sport in fashion is no longer simply a trend, it’s a necessity for many fashion brands, whether they come from the fast fashion or luxury worlds.”
In his view, 2020 will be the pinnacle of this success, the ultimate incarnation of the love affair between sport and fashion.

Still it is remarkable to learn that Off-White is officially the hottest brand on the planet, according to the latest edition of the London-based Lyst Index.  Over the last year the cult streetwear label has risen 33 places in the Index, now surpassing Gucci and Balenciaga at the top of the table for the first time.

Lyst said, thanks to a quarter packed with globally-hyped launches and collaborations, the Off-White buzz surrounding Virgil Abloh and his disruptive creative aesthetic continues to grow. Searches for Off-White across Lyst’s partner retailers are up 14% quarter on quarter, and Off-White is responsible for 3 out of 20 products in the hottest products lists.

Nike is the other sport brand on the list of top 10 brands in the index, having moved up five spots to take fourth place.  Nike’s recent Just Do It campaign starring American footballer Colin Kaepernick helped boost total search traffic to its related pages by 13% quarter-on-quarter. Four out of the 20 hottest fashion products in the Index this quarter are by Nike.  Continuing the popular Ugly Sneaker trend, Nike’s M2K Tekno replaced the Fila Disruptor as the most wanted affordable take on the look that had been pioneered by the Balenciaga Triple S (which remains in the men’s hottest products list for a second quarter.) The Nike shoe is the first product to appear in both the men’s and women’s hottest products lists at the same time on the Lyst Index.
Roger Vivier sports-inspired luxury footwear for SS2019.
Pascal Monfort said: “80% of sneakers have never been run in, nor seen a gym.
Sneakers have definitively become fashion footwear.” 
Photo by Francois Durand/Getty Images For Roger Vivier
Photo © Lucia Carpio 2018



Pascal Monfort said: “What’s happening today is fantastic. Creativity isn’t dead, far from it. Together, fashion and sports can go a long way and we love that!”  

He added that the power of collaborations is incredible "We’re seeing the most unexpected and most surprising ones: Marine Green x Oakley, Vêtement x Oakley… Nike x Off-White for the team Nigeria fielded for the 2018 World Cup (3 million jerseys pre-ordered) … Koché x PSG: even football can become fashionable and cool!"
The fact is that fashion designers love sportswear, said Montfort.  The power of streetwear and sportswear designers is overturning norms. The most recent example is undeniably the appointment of Virgile Abloh (Off-White), a multifaceted American designer, as head of the House of Vuitton, an event which created quite a surprise in the fashion world.
Nevertheless, a series of collaborations with the biggest luxury brands and the creation of the “luxury” Nike City Ready line now places Nike on the pages of the leading fashion magazines such as Vogue.

Thursday, 11 October 2018

Orientalism taking hold in fashion and interior designs

Take the cue from the Yves Saint Laurent Museum in Paris which has just launched “Yves Saint Laurent: Dreams of the Orient” as its first temporary exhibition since its opening in October 2017.

The exhibition - running from October 2, 2018 to January 27, 2019 - brings together some 50 haute couture dresses inspired by India, China and Japan from the museum’s collection, presented for the first time alongside ancient Asian artifacts loaned by the National Museum of Asian Arts, as well as private collectors, to offer authentic context to the collection’s historical influences.

All things inspired by cultures of the orient are presently having an influence in fashion as well as interior designs as evidenced in two of the latest wall-coverings launched this Autumn by British brand Fromental.  Known for their high-end couture approach to wallpapers and fabrics, Fromental's new ranges have been inspired by oriental cultures and focused the brand's bespoke approach with the use of hand embroidery and hand painting.
Above, as shown at a launch event set up at Centre Point in London was one of
the colourways of the Kiku wallcovering from Fromental.
Table lamps shown on shelves in the temporary installation are some of the new launches
from Gestalt's latest collection.
Photo © Lucia Carpio 2018
Kiku for example draws much of its inspiration from the Japanese art and Europe's infatuation with form.
The Kiku design combines hand-painting and screen-printed details in a beautiful
panelled wallcovering, hand-painted onto paper-backed silk.
Separately also from the new range is a new colourway in their Cibar design.

Cibar wall covering on display at the launch event held in the Centre Point, an iconic 1960s building, being developed into luxury residences in the heart of London. Wall lamps shown at the same event are 
from Gestalt's latest collection.
Photo © Lucia Carpio 2018
According to Fromental, Cibar is the epitome of mastery in design, representing hundreds of hours of refined skill and craftsmanship.

With its detailed painting, silk background and embroidered motifs, Cibar is a modern take on 19th Century Chinoiserie.
Photo © Lucia Carpio 2018
In Cibar, the shifts between layered detail and open negative space, lead the eye through the compostition.  Note the hand-painted and hand-embroidered silk detailing.  Master artisans work in Fromental's studio in Suzhou, China, a city traditionally known for the production of silk and imperial embroidery.

Fromental is currently exhibiting in two galleries in London:  Lorfords Antiques and Talisman Gallery.  The brand founded in 2005 by partners Tim Butcher and Lizzie Deshayes who often collaborate with international clients to create customised designs.

A collection of 30 Japanese Kokashi dolls (1930s - 1970s) as spoted at the Autumn Decorative Antiques & Textiles Fair which put Japonisme in the spotlight at the latest edition held at Battersea Park, south London.
Photo © Lucia Carpio 2018

At the Autumn 29018 edition of the Decorative Antiques & Textiles Fair that took place 2 - 7 October at Battersea Park, south London, a themed Foyer Stand at the entrance demonstrated the infuence of Japonisme on European interiors.  On display were examples of Glasgow School and Aesthetic Period British furniture, secessionist designs from Austria, Art Nouveau decorative arts and mid-century pieces, alongside a small selection of 20th century and contemporary Japanese works.

Two Japanese silk cushions with hand embroidery on printed ground showed
by Bleu Anglais at the Decorative Antiques & Textiles Fair.
Photo © Lucia Carpio 2018
Kazuhito Takadoi from Nagoya, Japan works with a wide range of materials: grass, gold leaf, washi paper and sumi ink,  to create unique art work.  He was represented by Jaggedart London at the
Decorative Antiques & Textiles Fair.  
Photo © Lucia Carpio 2018

Neith Nyer pays tribute to Paris for its SS 2019 collection.

Paris-based designer Francisco Terra, who founded his brand Neith Nyer pays tribute to the French capital as a place of both hope and despair for his recently launched Spring/Summer 2019 collection.




The story is told through the lens of a pageant queen trying to make her way to the top, according to the designer who had in mind this girl full of dreams but yet has been marginised; a spooky gothic kid from Bastille who dreams of being Miss France.  And will work hard to make her way to her dream.



This season the message is fashion is back to where it belongs : the streets.

The brand chose to show the collection in the streets of Paris as Francisco Terra wanted to escape from the concept of presenting a collection in a private space.

The models walked through  the French capital in randomly way yet acting as if it was a show, and they were followed around by Julien Boudet, the street style photographer @bleumode.
The  key  elements  of  this  season  are  pulled  directly  from  wardrobes  of  aspiring  beauty  queens:  crowns  and  bathing  suits,  sparkles,  child-like  mini  skirts,  and  a  palette  of  pink  and  turquoise.

These  naïve  features  are  perverted  using  radical  cuts and  re-stitching,  bleached  fabrics  and  extravagant  details.




To drive Francisco's vision, he also collaborates with a number of talents to bring the collection together: such as knitwear  with  Vitelli, romantic prints  by  Fay  Brown, hand  paintings  by  Theo  Mongourdin, swimsuits  by  Haight, adorned with crochet  by  Helen  Röde.

Jeweller  Florence  Tetier's  earrings  are  seashell-like  creatures  born  of  melted  shiny  plastic;  the  open-toe  pumps  designed  in  collaboration  with  Zeferino  in  Brazil  deliberately  have  a  longer,  exaggerated  sole.

"I wanted to create the narrative of a person who is fighting to succeed because everyone can relate to it", explains Francisco Terra, the creative director of Neith Nyer. "By distorting the peaceful imagery of beauty queens, I want to make clothes for people with thick skin."



This  season  Francisco Terra also  integrates  the  visual  symbols  of  Paris  city  life,  a  fashion  capital  rife  with  visual  contradictions.

There  is  a  certain  darkness  beyond  the  Eiffel  Tower  and  hand-painted  romantic  flowers  contrasted  with  skirts  and  shirts  in  trashy  prints  pulled  from  tourist  boutiques.
Printed  "papier  de  marabout,"  small  sheets  of  paper  distributed  in  Parisian  metro  stations  designed  by  mystics  to  solve  money  or  love  problems,  is  another  leitmotiv  used  as  stamps  to  mark  the  garments.

More  than  ever,  this  season  is  a  reflection  of  Neith  Nyer's  DNA,  a  blend  of  street  and  couture,  high  fashion  and  bad  taste.  It  returns  to  the  roots  of  the  brand,  embracing  DIY  techniques  with  luxury  fabrics.

Photography  - @bleumode; Art  Direction  - Florence  Tetier; Styling  -Natacha  Voranger; Casting  -Dominyka  Angelyte; Make  Up  by Celine  Exbrayat;  hair by Rimi  Ura sponsored  by  Redken.

Tuesday, 9 October 2018

Première Vision Paris September 2018

There was a buzz at the September 2018 edition of the Première Vision Paris trade show which attracted 55,497 international trade and professional visitors but it failed to match the figure of September 2017 which recorded more than 60,000 visitors.

More than 72% of the visitors came from outside France, with Italy being the largest registering at 11% of total, following by the United Kingdom (7%), Spain, Germany, Belgium, the Netherlands and Portugal. There was a strong presence of Swedish (602) and Danish (459) visitors, while Asia, which represented 14% of total visitors, including 3101 from China, 1610 from Japan and 1029 from Sourth Korea.

North America showed a slight decrease with 2,269 visitors, 1918 of whom came from the United States.  Although Turkey sent 5% of total visitors to the fair, it was a slight fall compared to previous years, due to its monetary and economic problems, according to organisers.

The 8.3% drop in total visitor numbers was down to a number of factors according to Première Vision, such as the clashing of dates with Yom Kippur (although the fair did open a day later than usual on a Wednesday rather than Tuesday) as well as a slowing consumption in general in Europe, uncertainties surrounding Brexit (as UK is one of the largest markets).    In addition to a critical monetary situation in Turkey, the organisers cited global growth weakened by US trade and economic policies had a contributing factor to uncertainties to the market.
The next edition of Première Vision Paris will be held from February 12 - 14. 2019.  Other upcoming PV events include Première Vision Istanbul October 10 - 12 2018,  the Denim Première Vision (December 5-6) in London, the Paris rendez-vous for pre-collections Blossom Première Vision (December 12-13), and Première Vision New York  will next take place January 15-16 2019.

Photos © Lucia Carpio 2018
 H&M and Klarna partner to elevate the modern shopping experience for consumers
Discussions among the visitors at the Première Vision Paris trade fair focused on how to introduce newness to entice consumers as brick and mortar retailers in all key markets are experiencing dwindling shoppers while online shopping is posing great competition and challenges to all in the fashion, interior and lifestyle industries.    Thus it is interesting to note that on October 8th in Stockhom, H&M - the world's second-largest clothes retailer together with Swedish fintech company Klarna announce that they have entered into a global partnership to further integrate H&M’s digital and physical stores to give customers a seamless, personalised and engaging shopping experience no matter where, when and how they shop. 
The deal will start in 14 European countries, starting with the U.K. and Sweden, but has the scope to expand to the U.S. and Asia, according to Klarna in a Finantial Times report, and promises to simplify H&M's returns and delivery processes which H&M.  It will power the H&M Club* payment programme, provide an enhanced omni-channel customer payment offering, a streamlined post-purchase service in the H&M app and many other service, and will deliver an unrivalled experience that will delight H&M customers across all touchpoints, according to the announcement.  

GAMUT collective unites five fashion designers show a different reality, an original way of creating.

At a glance some of the clothes look familiar, as something we already own, or what people wear in the street.  Elsewhere, they are quirky and conceptual.  That’s the beauty of these clothes from the GAMUT collective which unites five fashion designers and friends, all graduates of La Cambre (School of Art and Design) in Belgium. 


Their first collection, presented on 28 September 2018 at La Station – Gare des Mines in Paris, initiates a thoughtful dialogue between the respective universes and fields of expertise of its members.

A  visit  to  the www.collectifgamut.com site  opens  the  door  to  an  organic  labyrinth  that  randomly  produces  collages,  layers  of  images,  confrontations  of  scales,  themes  and  moods.

Here,  you  see  photos  of  the  clothing  being  manufactured,  pictures  of  everyday  life,  taken  in  the  street,  at  night,  during  the  day,  on  the  go  or  at  home.  Mixed  with  this  raw  material  are  shots  of  the  first  GAMUT  collection,  taken  regularly  each  month  during  the  process  of  their  creation.  Neither  advertisements  nor  tools  of  seduction,  these  images  are  simply  reflections  of  reality.

On a single silhouette, we can make out an interpretation of a traditional suit, invaded by technical elements and worn with GAMUT top-stitched cowboy boots and a travel bag crafted from recuperated scarves, which we also find on a ruffled skirt or trousers.

The personal visions of each member of the collective coexist and converse in a coherent wardrobe in which the suit is revisited in several forms, sometimes organic, sometimes conceptual, deconstructed, radical or meticulous…

Each member’s know-how is fully exploited to give life to an open wardrobe where the pieces navigate between men and women in a permanent movement that announces a new, spontaneous aesthetic in contrast with current trends.
The  collage  format  also  makes  its  mark  on  the  collective’s  choice  of  materials:  traditional  woollen  cloth  with  tennis  stripes,  featured  in  the  entire  collection,  comes  head  to  head  with  technical  waterproof  canvas  and  jerseys  printed  with  black  and  white  photos  of  the  striped  suit  cloth  from  the  rest  of  the  collection,  worn  on  models.



On an oversized silhouette,  the  word  GAMUT  is  splashed  across  dresses,  tops  and  shorts.  A  line  of  knitwear  in  coloured  cashmere,  with  the  same  construction  principles  as  the  rest  of  the  collection,  adds  a  radiant  touch  to  the  overall  work.

Somewhere  between  quirkiness  and  realism,  the  GAMUT  silhouettes  juxtapose  extremely  rigorous  and  understated  pieces  with  sparkling  gloves  or  ultra-large  visor  caps.

Trained  in  the  Belgian  style,  the  members  of  GAMUT  tweak  the  hallmarks  of  traditional  clothing,  from  a  man’s  waistcoat  to  an  evening  gown,  from  a  tailored  coat  to  a  white  shirt,  by  way  of  a  technical  parka  and  a  rustic  wool  jumper.

The  collection  is  presented  on  a  cast  of  models  in  line  with  the  collective  and  La  Station  –  Gare  des  Mines,  which  was  covered  in  red  plastic  for  the  occasion.




This  inclusive  sample  of  today’s  youth  projects  energetic  and  powerful  attitudes  that  correspond  to  the  ambition  of  GAMUT:  to  show  a  different  reality,  an  original  way  of  creating,  a  field  of  possibilities.   And it works as one collective, cohesive collection.

GAMUT  thanks  the  Antwerp  brand  Adult,  which  lent  three  shoe  models  for  the  runway  show  on  28  September  2018.  The  rest  of  the  accessories  (high  and  low  cowboy  boots,  backpacks,  travel  bags,  caps,  belts)  were  developed  by  GAMUT.

Photos by Etienne Tordoir / Info: Autrement PR

Thursday, 4 October 2018

Textile graduates win inaugural Tengri Innovation Award 2018

London design house Tengri, a luxury fashion and lifestyle brand, has announced that designer Henrietta Johns has won its inaugural Tengri Innovation Award, launched this year to encourage the implementation of sustainable fashion and textiles working towards a more sustainable industry standard and future.
Henrietta John’s work is rooted in a deep exploration of natural animal fibres and innovative designs using traditional felting techniques, creating new fabric surfaces with 100% animal fibre.
Henrietta Johns, who graduated this year from London's Central Saint Martin with a First Class honours degree in Textile Design, specialising in woven textiles, was in Paris in September as one of the 24 finalists of TexSelect 2018 who showed in the Première Vision Designs - one of the main events of Première Vision Paris. 

Photos shown here are designs from Henrietta's "The Exploration of Wool" collection that was shown in the PV Designs in Paris as she aims to raise the profile of British wool as a sustainable fibre for contemporary, innovative apparel, opposing it’s traditional connotations.  Each design is visually inspired by rural British landscape, as well as farming scenery and practices, in correlation with the prospect of increased business for independent British farmers. Each fabric is composed of 100% British wool, natural dyes and natural sheep’s fleece colourings.

Last year Henrietta was the winner of another competition sponsored by jacquard weaver Stephen Walters & Sons.  This led to her developing innovative fabrics that featured in their A/W 18 menswear collection at the prestigious Premier Vision Paris fair in 2017, as well as production of a bespoke jacket for Turnball & Asser as part of its dedication to ‘the new generation of design’.


Henrietta Johns developed her own techniques to accentuate the natural qualities of wool to create innovative textures and surfaces, such as playing with the idea of contrasting shrinkages when pairing different fibres that felt and shrink differently.
As winner of the Tengri Innovation Award, Henrietta receives a one-year mentorship with Tengri, as well as a six-month paid internship supported with Tengri Noble Yarns for production and a cash prize.
The Tengri Innovation Award was open to final-year students of the Tengri Innovation Partnership, an initiative which includes some of the UK’s most influential academic and creative institutions. Designers were invited to present innovative and sustainable approaches to textiles, to meet criteria set to demonstrate forward-thinking conceptualisation of sustainable fibres and practices that rework cultural and traditional techniques. Critically, these practices would be set to demonstrate the preservation of heritage in fabrication, construction and production.
Three runners-up in the Tengri Innovation Award is each awarded Tengri Noble Yarns, fabrics and cash prizes and will be invited to join the Tengri design collective working on the brief for Tengri’s 2019/20 collection.  They are:
·       Christopher Ehrlich, graduate of Central Saint Martins’ BA Fashion Design Menswear, accredited for his conscientious approach to sustainability with ‘zero off-cut’ pattern cutting, reinventing a traditional tailoring technique used in the early 1900s.
·       Cecile Tulkens, graduate of Central Saint Martins’ BA Fashion Design with Knitwear, for her ability to combine traditional and industrial techniques, incorporating an ancient form of crocheting originated in Belgium into her work.
·       Zoe Atkinson, graduate of University of the Arts London, BA Textile Design, with her amour-like knitwear combining natural materials such as leather skins, wood and soft woolen textures, to create an inventive outlook of future materiality.
Since 2014 Tengri has championed the sustainable design and manufacturing of prestige noble yarns and was the first technology specialist to refine Khangai yak yarns in the UK.  Rare Mongolian yak fibres from the Khangai yaks are as soft as cashmere, warmer than merino wool, breathable and hypoallergenic, via a 100% transparent supply chain.   Tengri is listed in the Sustania100 2016 guide as one of the world’s leading sustainable business solutions, and its founder, Nancy Johnston, was presented with the Asian Women of Achievement Entrepreneur Award 2016.

Photos supplied by Tengri.

Wednesday, 3 October 2018

A grand tour through Italy to discover the essence of ITALIAN TAILORING

As a woman of a certain age, I have been observing men all my life.  Or I should say, I have paid attention to how men dress for decades.  And it’s often those in a distinguished well-cut suit, and a well put-together style that catch my eye.  It is not necessary for them to embrace trends, but he who recognises quality while looking sharp and polished gets high marks in my book.

Book cover of Italian Tailoring.
Photo by Lucia Carpio.
While we are on the subject, a book due to be out this month highlights the key essence of ITALIAN TAILORING – the title published by SKIRA.  Highlighting the very fabric of Italian sartorial excellence, the book by Yoshimi Hasegawa gives a “glimpse into the World of Sartorial Masters”.

As fashion today is pivoted on casualness and sportswear (thus the continued dominance of jeans and sneakers or trainers), the book is a reminder that tailored and bespoke clothing are works of art that the Italians have mastered for generations, although it was the English who gave us bespoke tailoring originating some 400 years ago hailed essentially from their expertise in providing military uniforms.

Fabric swatches stored in the
Vitale Barberis Canonico samples room.
Photo by Luke Carby


In the early 1900s, the Italians brought the art of bespoke tailoring back home and developed their own unique cut and immediately recognisable style.  Italy’s coterie of grand tailors have long been a source of national pride.

As every good suit starts with quality fabrics, ITALIAN TAILORING opens with a chapter on Vitale Barberis Canonico an Italian fabric mill which started in September 1908 in Pratrivero, in the northern Biella region, 50 miles north of Turin.

Situated near the Swiss and French border, the region is blessed with an abundance of pure Alpine water from the Elvo, Cervo and Strona Rivers, with a rich cultural heritage of woollen textile production dating back to the Roman Empire, explains the author in her profile of Vitale Barberis Canonico.
The Master tailor Giovanni Barberis Organista shows off
an old fashion illustration from his private collection.
Photo by Luke Carby

Gennaro Formosa, owner of the
Neapolitan tailor house  Sartoria Formosa
while he showing off a detail of the typical “spalla a camicia”.
Photo by Luke Carby
Then author Yoshimi Hasegawa, who as a connoisseur of European men’s clothing, takes the reader on a grand tour of Italy.  From the north – covering Milan, Biella, Turin, Varese, Vicenza and Venice – to Central Italy – encompassing Florence and Rome, and continuing to South Italy, taking in Naples, Bari and Palermo of Sicily, the author offers remarkable characteristics of each region and city.

Over three years, Hasegawa visited and interviewed 27 historic tailor houses (from the most renowned to emerging talents, including Donnadio, Musella, Liverano & Liverano to Sartoria Napoletana; Rubinacci and Attolini to Caraceni, Ciardi and Pirozzi), providing an intimate profile into each celebrated name that gives the Made in Italy its reputable pride of place in today’s men’s tailoring industry.
The Master tailor Antonio Panico at work in his atelier in Naples, Ita;u
using tailor's white chalk to draw directly onto the fabric. 

Detailing family histories and traditions, revealed as if exposing the inside making of a tailored bespoke garment, the formidable traditions of their crafts and creativity, their ethos and philosophy, care and commitment passed from generation to generation and integrated into today’s modern world.    Often the master tailors give way to inner thoughts of the past but also heart-felt reflections on the future of the Italian industry.


The young Master Massimo Pasinato in his atelier in
Vicenza, Italy, sewing a suit with his mother.
Luke Carby’s excellent photography partners well with Hasegawa’s proficient words, resulting in a suitable tribute to the artisanal excellence of Italian high fashion tailoring.  As the title suggests,  ITALIAN TAILORING is a good promotion for Italian sartorial masters and a book for admirers of Italian craftsmanship.