Premiere Vision Paris' first Digital Show deemed a success . London's Textile Forum is postponed to 2021.

Just when you think it’s safe to go back into the water, the UK Government announces new Covid restrictions which means all exhibitions in the country have been "paused" again probably until next spring at the earliest.  Thus it is not surprising to learn that London’s Textile Forum cannot take place this October, the first time in 18 years that it is postponed.

Meanwhile Première Vision Paris which was held September 15 and 16 as a Digital Show is deemed a success by its organisers, saying the global creative fashion industry were able to come together on its online Marketplace to develop their trading activities, exchange ideas, get inspired and create their autumn/winter 2021-22 collections.  In total some 43,000 products from 1,675 suppliers representing 43 countries were featured online, attracting  19,500 unique visitors from nearly 120 countries, according to the organisers, testifying to the accelerating pace of digitization in the fashion industry.

"This digitization has been strengthening in recent months, a development Première Vision has supported since the launch of its Marketplace in September 2018, and now further contributes to with the DIGITAL SHOW and its dedicated tools and services," they stated.

Organisers said they have been expanding their services and added features on Marketplace since mid-March, allowing "exhibitors" to freely integrate their collections into their e-shops with no limit on the number of products presented, and no obligations in terms of commitment or duration.

Première Vision had the foresight to launch its Marketplace in September 2018 as an additional digital platform to the physical show, which has proven now to be a valuable initiative for the international trading community in these challenging times.  

The Digital Show has featured an interactive catalog, with activated client/supplier contact tools,; an enhanced content to decode seasonal trends to help professionals build collections; as well as a series of digital talks under the banne "The Futures of Fashion" which was participated by 3,635 international professionals sharing ideas and information regarding the industry’s coming challenges.

While the DIGITAL SHOW will remain active on the Première Vision Marketplace throughout the season, the traffic and activity seen on its opening two days demonstrate how clearly this event meets the industry’s new and evolving needs, enabling international fashion industry professionals to continue interacting and developing their business despite the reigning economic and health uncertainty. 

Gilles Lasbordes, Première Vision General Manager, said: 

“The performance of this first digital event are very encouraging and highly instructive. We salute the commitment and reactivity of the industry, which mobilized around the virtual show while reminding us of the importance of the physical experience. See you next February for a spring-summer 22 edition which is already shaping up to be a hybrid show.”

Première Vision reaffirms its omni-channel strategy, strengthening the synergies between its physical and digital events, as the way forward.  The physical event, Première Vision Paris is a lively, inspiring event vital to the creative process and to engaging professionals with each other in understand the season’s new material.  It also acts as a catalyst for the in-person meetings essential to developing and solidifying client/supplier relationships.  Coexisting is the online event on its Marketplace, the DIGITAL SHOW, regarded as an indispensable way to promote the visibility of the exhibitors’ offer to a broader target of international buyers during and beyond the actual show dates.

From gardens to fabrics, flowers reign supreme.

Cherry blossoms in the photos above and below right were taken this April in a private garden in Eastbourne, the celebrated sunshine-coastal town in the south of the UK.  Photos © Lucia Carpio.

All women love flowers, Stefano Gabbana was heard saying last week at the Tokyo National Museum where he and his designing partner Domenico Dolce staged an extravaganza to showcase their exuberant designs as a tribute to Japanese culture.

Nearly 100 one-of-a-kind designs were presented to coincide with hanami, the Japanese fesstival celebrating the sakura cherry blossoms.

Indeed flowers bloom marvelously each spring in one form or another around the world for the admiration of women and men alike and have provided great inspiration for international designers the like of Dolce & Gabbana.

Fancy fabrics from SanMartin, Bella Tella, Tiss et Teint.  
Photo by London's Textile Forum  (March 15-16 2017).

At the Textile Forum show held this Spring in London's One Marylebone, fancy fabrics featuring the floral theme answered to the call for intricate embellishments, as presented by a number of fabric companies, textured with embroidery, appliques or sequins, on velvets and laser-cuts.

“Fabric designers have produced some of the most elaborate ranges we have seen at Textile Forum since the show was launched in 2002,” says co founder and organiser Linda Laderman.  “Suppliers have moved up a gear when it comes to creativity in texture, pattern and colour and are keen to introduce British quirkiness in design and artisanal techniques, to provide exciting collections to tempt fabric buyers.

“While there is an overall mood of optimism among the majority of exhibitors, there is no doubt that trade is going to be more difficult this year and prices have risen a little. With the decision to leave the EU and the uncertain consumer market, innovation, matched with exceptional service, are going to be the keystones for winning business.” 

At Bella Tela the Koh-i-Nor diamond and the regal florals found within the British monarchy regalia have provided the inspiration for its spring/summer 18 collection. Called Ethereal, it features 100 new designs and has used traditional artisan techniques mixed with delicate laser and intricate embroidery, with colours inspired by the fragmentation of light that occurs through the stone, so includes tones found between colours of blush, rose and coral as well as a new faint heron grey and subtle golden tones.
James Hare is responding to the return of colour in bridalwear with two new pastels - spring rose and blue prism – introduced into its chantilly lace group and a rose to co ordinate with its crepe backed satin and chiffon palette.

Sequinned appliques for bridal wear at Textile Forum.
  Photo © Lucia Carpio.

Lace continues to be strong with a new guipure featuring an intricately patterned, yet elegant, for a traditional style gown with a modern twist, available in black or white.

A selection of lace fabrics as seen at the Textile Forum in London.  Photo © Lucia Carpio.

Laces, intricate and delicate, from Bradshaw and Bradshaw, Cluny Lace and Michael's Bridal Fabrics.
Photo by Textile Forum.

Michael’s Bridal Fabrics, which has also extended its range of laser cuts with 3D effects, has a guipure with laser cut panels and another with embroidery and beading. It has also introduced its first print designs, including one on silk organza and will also have some new Italian jacquards.
As more brides now realise that the back of their dress is as important as the front, Michael’s Bridal Fabrics is offering a back panel design with a crystalled/beaded motif on each shoulder area, which is linked together by several layers of looped crystal or clear beaded bands.

Embellishments and prints rule at Textile Forum in London

Fabric suppliers move up a creative gear says organiser, while trade is predicted to be challenging.

The Textile Forum taking place 15-16 March 2017 at One Marylebone, London promises to offer an even greater choice of embellished and textured fabrics for designers looking to be inspired, according to co-founder and organiser Linda Laderman.

British textiles with unique novelty are sought after at major trade fairs such as
Premiere Vision as shown above in February 2017. © Lucia Carpio 2017

“Fabric designers have produced some of the most elaborate ranges we have seen at Textile Forum since the show was launched in 2002,” she says.  “Suppliers have moved up a gear when it comes to creativity in texture, pattern and colour and are keen to introduce British quirkiness in design and artisanal techniques, to provide exciting collections to tempt fabric buyers.

“While there is an overall mood of optimism among the majority of exhibitors, there is no doubt that trade is going to be more difficult this year and prices have risen a little. With the decision to leave the EU and the uncertain consumer market, innovation, matched with exceptional service, are going to be the keystones for winning business.”

British textiles with unique novelty are sought after at major trade fairs
such as Premiere Vision Paris. © Lucia Carpio 2017 

Among the exhibitors at Textile Forum this season is Bella Tela which has found inspiration from within the British monarchy regalia for its the Koh-i-Nor diamond and regal florals in its Spring/Summer 18 collection called Ethereal.  It features 100 new designs and has used traditional artisan techniques mixed with delicate laser and intricate embroidery, with colours inspired by the fragmentation of light that occurs through the stone, so includes tones found between colours of blush, rose and coral as well as a new faint heron grey and subtle golden tones.

Top left – Bella Tela; Top right – AW Hainsworth; Bottom left – Michael’s Bridal Fabrics; Bottom right – Jane Makower Fabrics.  Photo courtesy Textile Forum.

Best known for its plain, Pongees has recognised the importance for prints in spring 2018 and has pulled together a wide range of plain silks that are prepared for digital printing. These include crepe satins, double crepes, crepe de chines, chiffons, georgettes and habotais, twills and jerseys. It is advising designers looking to create 3D effects to use  layers of crisp organza ruffles and frills that can work alongside crumpled and rumpled, surface detail lace for an easy and relaxed mood and has also introduced more fancy fabrics, including embroideries, laces and jacquards, into the collection.

While lace continues to be strong in bridal and eveningwear,  James Hare  will showcase a new guipure featuring an intricately patterned, yet elegant design, for a traditional style gown with a modern twist, available in black or white.  In addition with the return of colour in bridalwear, James Hare offers two new pastels - spring rose and blue prism – introduced into its chantilly lace group and a rose to co-ordinate with its crepe backed satin and chiffon palette.

Michael’s Bridal Fabrics, which has also extended its range of laser cuts with 3D effects, has a guipure with laser cut panels and another with embroidery and beading. It has also introduced its first print designs, including one on silk organza and will also have some new Italian jacquards.
Meanwhile, as more brides now realise that the back of their dress is as important as the front, Michael’s Bridal Fabrics is offering a back panel design with a crystalled/beaded motif on each shoulder area, which is linked together by several layers of looped crystal or clear beaded bands.
For menswear, shirtings specialist Ringhart Fabrics is again opting for Britishness with traditional Tattersall checks in updated shades, along with textured plain fabrics aimed at younger men looking for an investment piece.

On the suitings side, Holland & Sherry continues with the celebrations of its 180th anniversary, with collections for both men and women. Imperiod Gold, one of its most exclusive fabrics, woven in England, combines luxurious Mongolian cashmere and pure worsted vicuna with a dusting of 22 carat gold. Its anniversary collection features jacketing and suiting fabrics woven from Super 180s 14.5 micron yarns in worsted and woollen spun qualities available in a range of glen checks, guarded windowpanes, gun clubs and grid checks in classic colours.

A W Hainsworth, which provided the red fabric for the tunics of the British army at the battle of Waterloo, is introducing new colours based on its military heritage.

A new media partner for Textile Forum is Savile Row Style, which puts the spotlight on bespoke clothes.  It also covers other upmarket topics of interest to those who shop in the Row or aspire to, and concentrates upon quality and craftsmanship in the modern world.

Floral prints in bloom at Textile Forum and Premiere Vision Paris

Prints for apparel are no doubt one of the key trends this spring and beyond.

At Textile Forum in London last week, floral prints with a Japanese sensibility were in full bloom.

Nunoya

Barcelona-based distributor Nunoya specialises in quality Japanese fabrics and offered a wide selection of prints and designs from Kokka, a Japanese fabric producer with over 70 years of history.

 

Nunoya

Kokka’s designs include traditional Japanese floral prints, abstract, geometric and the more quirky fun designs perfect for children. Base fabrics include 100% cottons, cotton/linen mixes, polyester, polyester and knits.

Nunoya

Another Japanese company at the London fair was Yuwa Shoten which showcased

fine quality cotton, linen or linen mixed fabrics printed in Japan.  

Yuwa Shoten

The designs ranged from vintage floral and roses, in modern and retro style to novelty children’s designs.

Yuwa Shoten

McElroy Fabrics

Elsewhere from British company McElroy Fabrics of Derbyshire was a selection of feminine florals from their “Lady McElroy” luxury range.  The designs have a painterly style in delicate strokes and soft pastels.

McElroy Fabrics

Details on these suppliers and others are available on the Textile Forum website.  Click HERE.

In Paris last month, the Premiere Vision trade fair  offered vivid reinterpretations of nature for a wide selection of fabric bases, in particular botanical lushness, herbariums, fresh watercolour gardens and bouquets gave designers much food for thought.

The most popular all-over prints feature wildflowers and floral grounds scattered with birds.

The meeting of flora and fauna is also popular in more tropical variations, in which jungle foliage and flowers are populated with exotic animals.  The passion for plants is also notable in laces, with a selection of designs that are leafier rather than floral.

To see a  selection of the designs, click HERE.

Première Vision Paris had conducted a survey on “The Best”, gathered from interviewing buyers for their reaction to solid and decorative fabrics for spring summer 17.  The PV teams interviewed 291 exhibitors representing every specialty: high fancy, embroidery, laces, knits, prints, silks, shirting, tailoring, lining, tech, premium relax and high-end jeanswear.

The survey revealed several themes for Spring Summer 2017.  The most sought-after attribute was lightness across all sectors. The desire for naturalness is moving away from rusticity in favour of a dry feel; a blast of technicality works itself into everyday wear and the apparent simplicity of visuals evoke a fresh, tonic and refined spring summer 17.

Details on the Best survey are available on the Premiere Vision website.  Click HERE.

Photos: Lucia Carpio

Nottingham Trent University exhibit Costume Design Talent

What a uniquely memorable experience it was to see the mesmerizing "Akhnaten" by the English National Opera (ENO) at London Colliseum currently on until 18th March.

Phelim McDermott’s new staging of Akhnaten, together with the orchestral conductorship of  Karen Kamensek brought a new dimension to Philip Glass' music score.
While the performance, the stage production, the choral singing and troupe jugglers, the imagery and lighting were superb and all went so marvelously well, the costumes by Kevin Pollard were astonishingly beautiful.

One of the country's most established institutes to help educate and nurture young talent in costume design is Nottingham Trent University.

Photos: Lucia Carpio

Showcased at the Textile Forum in London last week was a selection of course work by students of the university.

The BA (Hons) Costume Design and Making course at Nottingham Trent University develops performance costume design and making skills at degree level.  Using traditional, technical and bespoke techniques, students create portfolios and costume outfits which support their career aspirations.  Final year students select two projects which demonstrate how they translate their creative design ideas into professional finished costumes for use in theatre, film, ballet, television, commercials, events, festivals, concerts and historical contexts.

The outfits shown in the photos here evidence skills in areas such as corsetry, historical pattern drafting, tailoring, millinery, wigs, costume props and fabric exploration.

The students' work will be exhibited as part of the University’s Degree Show Festival in June  which showcases student work across all NTU’s Art and Design courses.