Embellishments and prints rule at Textile Forum in London

Fabric suppliers move up a creative gear says organiser, while trade is predicted to be challenging.

The Textile Forum taking place 15-16 March 2017 at One Marylebone, London promises to offer an even greater choice of embellished and textured fabrics for designers looking to be inspired, according to co-founder and organiser Linda Laderman.

British textiles with unique novelty are sought after at major trade fairs such as
Premiere Vision as shown above in February 2017. © Lucia Carpio 2017

“Fabric designers have produced some of the most elaborate ranges we have seen at Textile Forum since the show was launched in 2002,” she says.  “Suppliers have moved up a gear when it comes to creativity in texture, pattern and colour and are keen to introduce British quirkiness in design and artisanal techniques, to provide exciting collections to tempt fabric buyers.

“While there is an overall mood of optimism among the majority of exhibitors, there is no doubt that trade is going to be more difficult this year and prices have risen a little. With the decision to leave the EU and the uncertain consumer market, innovation, matched with exceptional service, are going to be the keystones for winning business.”

British textiles with unique novelty are sought after at major trade fairs
such as Premiere Vision Paris. © Lucia Carpio 2017 

Among the exhibitors at Textile Forum this season is Bella Tela which has found inspiration from within the British monarchy regalia for its the Koh-i-Nor diamond and regal florals in its Spring/Summer 18 collection called Ethereal.  It features 100 new designs and has used traditional artisan techniques mixed with delicate laser and intricate embroidery, with colours inspired by the fragmentation of light that occurs through the stone, so includes tones found between colours of blush, rose and coral as well as a new faint heron grey and subtle golden tones.

Top left – Bella Tela; Top right – AW Hainsworth; Bottom left – Michael’s Bridal Fabrics; Bottom right – Jane Makower Fabrics.  Photo courtesy Textile Forum.

Best known for its plain, Pongees has recognised the importance for prints in spring 2018 and has pulled together a wide range of plain silks that are prepared for digital printing. These include crepe satins, double crepes, crepe de chines, chiffons, georgettes and habotais, twills and jerseys. It is advising designers looking to create 3D effects to use  layers of crisp organza ruffles and frills that can work alongside crumpled and rumpled, surface detail lace for an easy and relaxed mood and has also introduced more fancy fabrics, including embroideries, laces and jacquards, into the collection.

While lace continues to be strong in bridal and eveningwear,  James Hare  will showcase a new guipure featuring an intricately patterned, yet elegant design, for a traditional style gown with a modern twist, available in black or white.  In addition with the return of colour in bridalwear, James Hare offers two new pastels - spring rose and blue prism – introduced into its chantilly lace group and a rose to co-ordinate with its crepe backed satin and chiffon palette.

Michael’s Bridal Fabrics, which has also extended its range of laser cuts with 3D effects, has a guipure with laser cut panels and another with embroidery and beading. It has also introduced its first print designs, including one on silk organza and will also have some new Italian jacquards.
Meanwhile, as more brides now realise that the back of their dress is as important as the front, Michael’s Bridal Fabrics is offering a back panel design with a crystalled/beaded motif on each shoulder area, which is linked together by several layers of looped crystal or clear beaded bands.
For menswear, shirtings specialist Ringhart Fabrics is again opting for Britishness with traditional Tattersall checks in updated shades, along with textured plain fabrics aimed at younger men looking for an investment piece.

On the suitings side, Holland & Sherry continues with the celebrations of its 180th anniversary, with collections for both men and women. Imperiod Gold, one of its most exclusive fabrics, woven in England, combines luxurious Mongolian cashmere and pure worsted vicuna with a dusting of 22 carat gold. Its anniversary collection features jacketing and suiting fabrics woven from Super 180s 14.5 micron yarns in worsted and woollen spun qualities available in a range of glen checks, guarded windowpanes, gun clubs and grid checks in classic colours.

A W Hainsworth, which provided the red fabric for the tunics of the British army at the battle of Waterloo, is introducing new colours based on its military heritage.

A new media partner for Textile Forum is Savile Row Style, which puts the spotlight on bespoke clothes.  It also covers other upmarket topics of interest to those who shop in the Row or aspire to, and concentrates upon quality and craftsmanship in the modern world.