Hello 2023!

We are welcoming 2023 with great hopes yet with measured anxiety as the last 12 months had been challenging, demanding and exhausting.  As the Prime Minister Rishi Sunak said in his year-end/new year message, UK's problems won't go away in 2023 after a "tough" 12 months.  But he promised the "very best of Britain" will be on display in the coming months.  Of course UK's problems are not unique.  World events have impacted all countries, brought on by ongoing anxiety from the unprecedented pandemic, the relentless war that Russia has unleashed onto Ukraine, and which compounded the global economic crisis we haven't seen in decades.

Nevertheless, as we said goodbye to 2022, we are wishing everyone a safe, peaceful, productive and prosperous 2023.  We can hope can't we, that things will get better.  Best of luck everyone.

Photo by Lucia Carpio, taken of a dreamy installation at the "Vision & Virtuosity" exhibition launched by Tiffany & Co at the Saatchi Gallery, London, in the summer of 2022.  

Dame Vivienne Westwood has died. She was 81

It is sad to learn another "Queen" has passed away in 2022.  

Dame Vivienne Westwood, you were the "Queen of Punk and British Fashion".  May you Rest In Peace.

After the death of the legendary designer was announced on Thursday, December 30th, Westwood's husband and creative partner Andreas Kronthaler said: "I will continue with Vivienne in my heart.

"We have been working until the end and she has given me plenty of things to get on with."

Now who will carry on the Westwood fashion House?  It has been reported that seasoned Welsh designer and close friend of Westwood Jeff Banks became a director of her company just before Christmas, when it was apparent Westwood was very ill. 

In 2022, we said goodbye to a number of luminaries of the fashion world, including Andre Leon Talley, the American fashion journalist, stylist, creative director and editor-at-large of Vogue magazine, Paris designer Thierry Mugler, and Japanese designer Issey Miyake.  And now Vivienne Westwood.

Season's Greetings and a Prosperous New Year to all

 

Photo by Lucia Carpio in East Sussex, UK, December 2022

Well 2022 has not turned out to be what we had hoped it would be in the end of 2021.  This time last year, in the midst of a Covid-restricted Christmas, we were still hopeful.  Hopeful for soon to gain freedom from viruses, freedom from lockdowns, freedom from poor health, stress and anxiety.  But in the last nearly 12 months, we have come to face new fears brought about fundamentally by the conflict in Ukraine because of Russia's aggression, and generally deteriorating confidence brought about by rising costs of living and energy, the state of the changing climate, and the amazingly difficult situations that lead to growing displacement of people around the world.

While many of us in this winter are in search of profound peace of mind, may we still hold on to hope and find peace and security during this "festive" time and celebrate with love, kindness and care for ourselves and our loved ones.  

From all of us to you, a Merry Christmas and optimistic prospects for better days in 2023! 

Menswear research project launched to study the connections between British and Italian Menswear

We all know how good the British tailors and mills are at producing quality menswear.  And likewise the Italians are good at making beautiful clothes too.  But what are the differences and similarities of the menswear industry between the two countries, and how they influence the way men dress today.

Vivienne Westwood double-breasted jacket, 1990s

So it is welcome news to learn that an international research network has been launched to investigate the cultural and industrial connections between London, Liverpool, Manchester, and Milan in Italy, and how they have influenced the production, display and consumption of British menswear.  The findings will be presented in an exhibition in February 2024 during London Fashion Week.

The study Locating Menswear is led by Professor Andrew Groves, Director of the Westminster Menswear Archive at the University of Westminster, and Jo Jenkinson from Manchester Fashion Institute at Manchester Metropolitan University, in partnership with C.P. Company, SEVENSTORE, UKFT and the British Fashion Council.

The international network is funded by the Arts and Humanities Research Council (AHRC), part of UK Research and Innovation (UKRI), and will host a series of workshops and events in the United Kingdom and Italy over the course of the next 16 months.

Pringle jumper, 1980s 

Professor Groves said: "Existing knowledge of British fashion from 1945 onwards has historically focused on designer womenswear to understand the fashioned body, while menswear has remained relatively unexamined, with little research into how it differs in its design, production, or consumption processes. 

"Menswear has been consistently under-researched and under-represented in dress collections, resulting in a distorted understanding of the history of British fashion and its locations of creation, production, display, and consumption."

Moschino tart card jeans

Jo Jenkinson said: "The network's objective is to expand the field of fashion research by bringing together an interdisciplinary network of scholars, practitioners, and fashion intermediaries, in order to begin identifying and addressing critical gaps in knowledge surrounding menswear."

Lorenzo Osti, President of C.P. Company, said: "Menswear has been a common language between British and Italian men for decades, as evidenced by C.P. Company's history. We are thrilled to be a part of this network, which provides us with a fantastic opportunity to share our knowledge, passion, and values in order to create a meaningful cultural exchange."

Gloverall Duffel coat, 1970s

Caroline Rush, Chief Executive of the British Fashion Council, said: "Menswear is a core part of the landscape of the UK fashion industry and vital to the BFC’s strategy to spotlight excellence in creativity innovation and design globally. Over the past 10 years since the launch of London Collections Men that legacy of menswear from tailoring to sportswear has exploded with talent, which is supported by brilliant craftsman, retailers, media, innovators from across the UK. This will be showcased at London Fashion Week in June 2023."

Daniel Milne, Head of Creative at SEVENSTORE in Liverpool, said: "Understanding the physical and digital spaces where menswear is encountered by the public through display and consumption is critical to understanding its history and planning for the industry's future. Liverpool has had an active and profound influence on the evolution of British menswear, and we are excited that this will be explored and celebrated as part of the network's activities."

The network builds on the research already undertaken by Professor Groves who established the Westminster Menswear Archive (WMA) in 2016 and co-curated the award-winning Invisible Men exhibition in 2019. The WMA holds over 2000 menswear garments from 1780 to the present day, including garments from A-COLD-WALL*, Ahluwalia, Aitor Throup, Alexander McQueen, Aquascutum, Barbour, Belstaff, Berghaus, BodyMap, Burberry, C.P. Company, Calvin Klein, Carol Christian Poell, Christian Dior, Comme Des Garcons, Craig Green, Helmut Lang, Jean Paul Gaultier, Joe Casely-Hayford, Kim Jones, Lewis Leathers, Liam Hodges, Martin Margiela, Massimo Osti, Meadham Kirchhoff, Nigel Cabourn, Palace, Paul Smith, Prada, Raf Simons, S.S.DALEY, Stone Island, Tommy Nutter, Umbro, Undercover, Vexed Generation and Vivienne Westwood.

The network's activities will be documented on Instagram at @locating menswear, and in February 2024, an exhibition highlighting the network's findings will be presented during London Fashion Week.

All images from SEVENSTORE

COSMOSS by Kate Moss collaborates with Amy Russell Taylor and Emma Lucy Knowles

Jewellery is not just for Christmas, but for year-round, soul-enhancing well-being.

Now COSMOSS, the beauty and wellbeing brand founded by Kate Moss, has joined forces with British jewellery designer, Amy Russell Taylor (founder of the A R T brand),  and together they have collaborated with crystal healer and expert, Emma Lucy Knowles, for their exclusive Oracle Dial necklace.

Kate Moss sporting three lengths of the Oracle Dial - bespoke crystal amulets that are now added to her curated COSMOSS product range.

The Oracle Dial is a handmade piece crafted from 100% recycled gold and silver with production "powered by 100% green and vegan energy. "  Each contains a triad of Blue Topaz, Prasiolite (green quartz) and Black Sapphire, set within a design that continuously flows with every movement of the body.

Available in three different sizes with chain lengths from 16” to 30”, each bespoke necklace can also be accompanied by the COSMOSS Sacred Mist and a Palo Santo Cleansing Stick for an energy-enhancing Gift Set. 

The Oracle Dial for COSMOSS is available exclusively at amyrusselltaylor.com.

Fred Perry X Gate194

British Clothing brand Fred Perry has collaborated with Berlin-based concept store GATE194 with a three-piece collection of hooded sweats and a printed Fred Perry polo shirt.

GATE194 add screen-printed design annotations and placeholder text to familiar Fred Perry pieces, highlighting their creative design process.

The collection is available in the GATE194 Berlin shop and website, as well as globally online via Fred Perry.

Gate is a system of spaces connecting fashion, art and music.  The store design and concept evolve  around the contrast between the synthetic and the organic, the digital and the analogue, between man and machine.

World colour authority Pantone has named Viva Magenta as the Colour of the Year 2023

Just when pink has been named a popular colour favoured by consumers this year (thanks to the Barbie trend), world colour authority Pantone has named Viva Magenta - a colour rooted in nature, descending from the red family and signals strength, vigour and optimism - as its Colour of 2023.

Pantone's 2023 colour of the year - Viva Magenta - is a "a carmine red."
Created in conjunction with an AI tool,  Midjourney, it is metaverse friendly.
Photo: Pantone

PANTONE 18-1750 Viva Magenta is regarded as brave and fearless, a pulsating colour whose exuberance promotes a joyous and optimistic celebration.  

Pantone says this colour is powerful and empowering. It is a new animated red that revels in pure joy, encouraging experimentation and self-expression without restraint, an electrifying, and a boundaryless shade that is manifesting as a stand-out statement. PANTONE 18-1750 Viva Magenta welcomes anyone and everyone with the same verve for life and rebellious spirit. It is a color that is audacious, full of wit and inclusive of all.

Leatrice Eiseman, Executive Director, Pantone Color Institute says, “In this age of technology, we look to draw inspiration from nature and what is real. PANTONE 18-1750 Viva Magenta descends from the red family, and is inspired by the red of cochineal, one of the most precious dyes belonging to the natural dye family as well as one of the strongest and brightest the world has known.

Rooted in the primordial, PANTONE 18-1750 Viva Magenta reconnects us to original matter. Invoking the forces of nature, PANTONE 18-1750 Viva Magenta galvanizes our spirit, helping us to build our inner strength.”

Ms Eiseman also says "The last few years were transformative in many ways in terms of people’s sense of self, and the way well- being, priorities and identity are being thought about. As a result, space has been created where we are free to explore and be accepted for exactly who we feel we are, whether it be in a cybernetic universe, a conventional space, or a magical blend of both."

Working with the AI tool Midjourney, Pantone is leveraging the bold magenta colour to explore a "Magentaverse" ecosystem, which will include immersive experiences in the colour world in partnership with interactive art exhibition company ARTECHOUSE. While the company has art spaces in Washington, DC and New York City, it will host the "Magentaverse" at its Miami Beach location. Beginning on Dec. 3, the immersive exhibition will be open to the public for the first time, with "immersive rooms with textures and interactions that plunge attendees into an array of visual, auditory, and tactile experiences."

Milana Hot Pink/Grey wallpaper by Olenka Design celebrates with the same vibrant hues,
verve for life and rebellious spirit as Pantone’s Viva Magenta.