Flower Power - in fashion, textile and in art

Flowers with all their evoking qualities and colours are key influencing factors in fashion as in art.

A glorious display of flowers at the Scoop London trade fair held at the Saatchi Gallery.  Described by biologists as the reproductive structure of flowering plants, the part of a plant that is often brightly coloured and has a pleasant smell, flowers are often the source of inspiration for fashion as well as in art.

Flowers are the reproductive structure of flowering plants, the part of a plant that is often brightly coloured and has a pleasant smell, with the promise of spring and with it the return of warmer weather, the emergence of blooming flowers is Mother Nature's to bring us optimism. 

Spotted at the recently concluded Scoop London trade fair a few days ago at the Saatchi Gallery in London (which coincided with London Fashion Week), Nordic knitwear brand Steinum by Johanna av Steinum showed this chunky knitted wool cardigan featuring a blooming rose on its bell-shaped sleeves.  The black background shows off the vibrant colour of the intarsia rose motif to great effect.

Currently on show at the Marylebone Hotel in London is a exhibition of flowers by London-based artist Chantal de Gaudio presented by the Rebecca Hossack Gallery.

On until the end of May, de Gaudio's unique artwork provide a welcome boost this Spring.   Here is a sampling of a few of her works.

In the world of fashion and textiles, with surface treatments, textures and prints being strong trends, flowers provide strong sources of inspiration for designers and material developers.  

With the promise of Spring in the air, blossoms were in full bloom recently at the Première Vision Paris trade fair (held 16- 18 February 2016 at the Parc des Expositions de Paris Nord-Villepinte).

Taking the cue from Mother Nature, the forum disiplay designs throughout the fair took on a garden theme, in particular flowers with all their evoking qualities as the main influencing factors of the Spring/Summer 2017 season. 

On textiles, at the forefront of trends, colours chracteristic of nature, and designs taken from plant life and in particular flora and fauna remain strong sources of inspiration for designers, textile and material developers.  

Read in full, click HERE.  

All photos by Lucia Carpio for My Fashion Connect Global.

PREMIÈRE VISION PARIS attracted 55,025 international visitors

PREMIÈRE VISION PARIS reports 55,025 international visitors amidst 
uncertain global economic and geo-political challenges.

The internationally acclaimed Première Vision Paris trade fair - often billed as the most influential trade event for decision-makers and professionals in the world of textile, leather and apparel trade experts - reported 55,025 people from around the world had visited the fair which was held 16- 18 February at the Parc des Expositions de Paris Nord-Villepinte.

Read in full, click HERE.
All photos by Lucia Carpio for My Fashion Connect Global.

Harris Tweed Celebrates UK Revival in London. Production soared to 1.7 million metres last year.

Harris Tweed, the celebrated cloth which a long time ago may have been synonymous with the "Miss Marple" look, continues to be a high fashion favourite today with many of the world’s leading fashion houses vying for the fabric as a staple of their A/W collections, recognising the quality that comes with the ‘Made in Britain’ tag.

Celebrating the UK’s revived love affair with the luxury hand-woven fabric as part of this season’s London Fashion Week, the sought-after Harris Tweed took pride of place at the Dover House in Whitehall to mark sustained global production growth over the past seven years - particularly in the UK market.

The guest list of VIPs who enjoyed a Hebridean gala on Monday night, February 22, with traditional Scottish music and fare, hosted by the Harris Tweed Authority and the Secretary of State, David Mundell, MP.

Outfits from UK designers such as Nigel Cabourn, Art Comes First and Walker Slater as well as two ensembles straight from Margaret Howell’s London Fashion Week collection were showcased on the catwalk. 

According to the Harris Tweed Authority, the UK market for Harris Tweed has grown exponentially over the past two years, with a significant increase in UK based orders.

 Across the entire sector in 2015, production of the unique and legally protected hand-woven cloth soared to 1.7 million metres.

Thanks to seasoned and new designers embracing the versatility of Harris Tweed it has witnessed a welcomed resurgence across many home collections.

As British designer Margaret Howell who showed at London Fashion Week on Sunday and has a long affiliation with Harris Tweed said: “A lover of wild open spaces, I feel an empathy with Harris Tweed. Weaving on hand looms creates a depth and complexity of texture that can’t be imitated by a mechanical process. The resilient wool, the designs in earthy colours – reflect the landscape, the climate and the skills of the local people who produce it.

“I’ve always been attracted by its authenticity, and chose Harris Tweed when designing my first winter jacket and overcoat. I’ve used it ever since.”

The renewed affection for the fabric in the UK as well as aboard is a testament to the skill and craftsmanship of the weavers, the work of the mills and Harris Tweed Authority who work tirelessly to promote and protect this iconic industry which is protected by an Act of Parliament and more recently a Grant of Arms.

Harris Tweed Authority chairman, Norman L Macdonald said: “The UK market really understands the quality and unique characteristics of Harris Tweed. We are so proud to see the cloth which is hand-woven at the homes of just 175 weavers on the islands of Lewis and Harris transformed in to stunning collections which are shown on catwalks of the world’s fashion capitals.

“We are grateful to have such support and loyalty from designers and fashion houses on our doorstep as well as our international clients.

“To celebrate in the UK capital at the start of London Fashion Week is a perfect way to mark our continued growth and the craftsmanship that still remains true to honouring the unique production methods of Harris Tweed.”

With the industry now estimated to be worth nearly £11 million, it plays a significant role - not only for employment on the Hebridean islands but also the industry’s contribution to both Scotland and UK economies.

Secretary of State for Scotland David Mundell said: “ Harris Tweed is a beautiful product – close to its heritage and geographic roots, yet setting trends right across the world."

All photos above by Stewart Bryden, issued on behalf of the Harris Tweed Authority by Weber Shandwick.

Iconic Harris Tweed Receives Ultimate Accolade

                            --- Grant of Arms awarded to further protect the Scottish cloth ---

Earlier this month, the Harris Tweed Authority announced that it was granted the ultimate seal of approval from Lord Lyon King of Arms, Dr. Joseph Morrow QC, who has bestowed upon the business a Grant of Arms.

Lord Lyon, with Norman MacDonald chairman of the Harris Tweed Authority and Letters Patent
Photo issued on behalf of the Harris Tweed Authority by Weber Shandwick.  

The luxury cloth was presented with the official Letters Patent at a presentation ceremony in Edinburgh on 10 February at the Court of The Lord Lyon at HM New Register House.

This honour, which complements the existing Harris Tweed Act of 1993, gives the cloth the lawful right to bear a Coat of Arms under complete protection against any unauthorised use.

It means that Harris Tweed, which is defined as cloth, hand woven only by the islanders of Lewis, Harris, Uist and Barra in their own homes, using pure virgin wool that has been dyed and spun in the Outer Hebrides of Scotland, is the only material in the world that can be presented as Harris Tweed and bear its renowned Orb Certification Mark.

Photo issued on behalf of the Harris Tweed Authority by Weber Shandwick.  

The arms incorporate the elements of the Harris Tweed Authority’s logo with the motto, “Guardians of the Orb”, appearing on the Letters Patent. The Authority also uses the Gaelic phrase ‘Ughdarras a Chlo Hearaich’, which translates as ‘Trustee of Harris Tweed’.

The prestigious award further strengthens the cloth’s position as a respected leader in the clothing manufacturing industry. 

Designer ApuJan's AW16 collection serenaded by live soulful musicians from Taiwan

London-based designer ApuJan’s AW16 collection presentation was certainly a show not to be missed. The presence of live music set a poetic tone of the show yesterday as one of the highlights of this season’s Fashion Scout event at Freemason’s House in Covent Garden.

Many of models had their faces obscured by oversized crochet bucket hats with a loose scalloped brim.  

The collection featured rose and floral prints as well as chunky knits for a chic interpretation of a feminine silhouette with long flowing shapes. 

Colours were mainly grey, blue and black, with occasional injection of bright blue and coral.  The use of textured knitting techniques featuring knitwear of varying weights as well as the emphasis on the feminine bodice display the designers understanding of the importance of modern comfort.

Not only were the clothes enticing, the models strode down the runway accompanied by sultry and soulful music. 

Led by singer Olivia Yan accompanied by a violinist and a cellist, the performance of five scores by the Taiwanese musicians was enhanced by the skilful talent of DJ Stephen.   

According to the musicians, the band was formed specifically for ApuJan's catwalk show, under the name of Project APJ but they have put out a couple of albums already and can be contacted on their website.

All photos by Lucia Carpio for My Fashion Connect Global.

Edeline Lee staged Autumn Winter 2016 collection at the Vinyl Factory

Edeline Lee’s presentation of her Autumn Winter 2016 collection during London Fashion Week was set against a backdrop of chequerboard and shredded paper at the On|Off exhibition at the Vinyl Factory near Carnaby Street, London.

The set design allowed guests to get up close and see the features of the designs.

Playing up black and white monochromes, the ensembles ranged from oversized trench coats, bold shaped tops, out-sized dresses and roomy trousers, to slim-fitting dresses and leggings, often outlined in contrasting colours, with whimsical flowers and prints. 

Canadian-born, London-based Edeline Lee graduated with a First from Central Saint Martins Womenswear and apprenticed in the studios of Alexander McQueen and John Galliano before working at Zac Posen in New York and as Head Designer for Rodnik in London.

All photos by Lucia Carpio for My Fashion Connect Global.

Little Shilpa's Autumn-Winter 2016 collection takes a cosmic approach

Orbiting around a cosmic theme, Little Shilpa's presentation at the Vinyl Factory in London launches outfits as satellites.  The epoonymous label of Shilpa Chavan offers handcrafted head-pieces, jewwellery and apparel, drawing inspiration from travels, interaction with various cultures and myriad points of observation.

The collection uses wool primarily, polyester and neoprene, and lace as well.  The fabric comes in a mixture of light pastel shades and striking neons, with similar treatment extended to the headpieces.  The range consists of sweatshirts, tracks and skirts with sportswear as the core of the execution.

All photos by Lucia Carpio for My Fashion Connect Global.

Italian fashion brands making a strong presence at SCOOP London

Neera

Italy is amongst the leading countries in the world when it comes to fashion, design and culture, and the umbrella term "Made in Italy" is, itself, synonymous with quality, creativity, craftsmanship, quality and finesse.  Milan, Rome and Florence commonly hold the tri-colour flag of green, white and red as the principal cities for Italian fashion houses and luxury brands.

 

Gala Gloves

Now come 21 – 23 February, Italian fashion and accessory brands and designer labels will be in London showing their Autumn/Winter 2016 collections as the SCOOP London fashion fair and exhibition at the prestigious Saatchi Gallery.  

Carbotti

Among them are Cettina Bucca and Martina Couture, both womenswear designers; knitwear line, Neera, handbag labels MYCHOICE, Massimo Frattasio and Carbotti and glove brands Gala Gloves, Sofia G and AMCardillo.

Neera’s handmade knitwear collections are characterised by a aristo-chic aesthetic, clean lines and a distinctive minimalism. Pure wool, merino wool, linen, cashmere, cotton are just some yarns created in their own plant. Today the Company is at the third generation of the Centrulli Family. Committed to environmental issues, their production uses only energy deriving from renewable sources, reducing their emissions by 49% in just 1 year.

Established in 1956, Carbotti is an Italian company manufacturing leather handbags and fashion accessories for upscale boutiques. Featuring classic and modern models, Carbotti handbags made in their own factory in Martina Franca, are targeted to the mid-high market, successfully selling through retailers and department stores. 

The Pellone family, among masters in the art of glove-making since 1930, established the Gala Gloves brand in 1991.  Based at Casavatore, a few minuytes from the historic centre of Naples, the Gala Gloves produced in Casavatore, just a few minutes from the airport and the historic centre of Naples. Always faithful to the rites of traditional Naples, the brand’s artisans perform the more than 25 steps needed to produce a pair of gloves. 

Dressing up for a special occasion? opt for the Up-do by michaeljohn

Polished hair and Up-dos are all the craze at michaeljohn

Chanel Couture Hair:   Michaeljohn sees 25% increase in requests for up-dos since Sam McKnight's brilliant croissant bun

Along with my peers in France these few days for the Première Vision Paris exhibitions (a series of must-see events for all in the fashion, textile, design and related industries), croissants are undoubtedly on my breakfast menu.

Last month on Janurary 26^th, when Karl Lagerfeld sent his models down the catwalk for Haute Couture, their hair, executed by session stylist Sam McKnight, was the star attraction.

Dubbed "the croissant", these tightly and precisely constructed architectonic 1940s giant rolls at the back of the head, heralded in a new era of very chic, very polished, sculptural hair.

McKnight’s hair statement resonated far beyond the grounds of the Grand Palais where the collection was shown. 

"This season's Chanel hair was inspired by beautiful illustrations by Karl and a Picasso sculpture. The final look was a modern interpretation of sculptural forms and classic silhouettes which reflected the collection.” And here at michaeljohn it’s signalled the start of a bold new era of dressed hair, up-dos, bridal and special occasion styling. Since then there’s been a 25% increase in demand for up-dos in the salon and the stylists are all busy perfecting their own couture-inspired versions.  “Fashion has become much more sleek and elegant than it was before,” says Max Coles, michaeljohn’s Creative Director. “Very shiny hair has come back, very well done and very neat. Especially that last Chanel show everything was so sleek, so neat and so polished: it was beautiful. We try to recreate this kind of idea.”

The salon team offer all kinds of permutations of the Chanel Couture look as well as up-dos of all varieties, buns, and French plaits.  Coles confirm that the team are happy to teach clients how to execute these styles at home themselves.

“We can do pretty much everything.  If you remember going back to the past, Breakfast at Tiffany’s this kind of style, all the women were very dressed up and the hair as well, we’re going back to this, its very feminine and women feel great about it because they really stand out, instead of messy and casual and greasy looking.”

Bridal hair and special occasions – from cocktail parties to full on grand balls - offer a unique opportunity for women to go to the hairdresser beforehand and have a bespoke session tailoring their hair to make the perfect entrance. “We’re looking at trends going into evening and also wedding hair,” continues Jay Rapata Senior Artistic Director in the salon. “There’s been so much half up half down since the Royal Wedding so we are now seeing something a bit more dressed and that’s where the salon comes in.”

Colour is also key to the Chanel Couture look. “It was all the natural shades, particularly the brunettes,” says Debbie Bhowmik, Lead Signature Colourist at michaeljohn. “It’s a big departure from the ombre, the dip dye for a colourist its beautiful shiny hair and it kind of enhances what a client’s got.” The rise of the brunette, from the Duchess of Cambridge to Chanel Couture’s model of the moment Kendall Jenner is a phenomenon that Bhowmik is enthusiastic about. 

All photos supplied by michaeljohn.co.uk

Pure London going from strength to strength with new show Off-beat layout and daily events

Contemporary fashion trade fair Pure London opened on Sunday, February 14 at Kensington Olympia, London with a new show layout presenting a refreshing approach.

Off-beat fashion in bold shapes and colours open the daily Main Stage Catwalk shows.

The event organizers i2i Events Groups showcase trends for Autumn/Winter 2016, featuring a wide selection of womenswear, footwear, accessories and for the first time, menswear as well, with 30 high-end menswear brands and designers.

Giant mural showing off figurative work by emerging artist Rudolf Humm.

Turkish fashion featured at the Main Stage Catwalk show.

Running until February 16, the new theme this season is “Pureism”, inspired by the art movement.  The new campaign imagery is formed of brushstrokes form Rembrandt paintings, supplied by the Rijksmuseum in Amsterdam.  

Stylish design-led labels on show at the Spirit Catwalk scheduled daily.

The daily Main Stage Catwalk shows feature fashion that are styled to echo the Pureism shapes and colours.  Separately, daily presentations on the Spirit Catwalk features stylish labels aimed trend-led audience.  There is also a programmed of scheduled talks and seminars throughout the three-day event. 

Marbek London jacket, Remus Uomo sweater and jumper and Glen Prince scarf.

Among the 30 menswear brands on show are Italian-inspired British brand Remus Uomo, as well as Britiosh sports-luxe brand SLIMS, international luxury Swiss brand Hanro and Italian brand AC Label.  US brand Clavon’s Wear is using Pure London to launch in the UK featuring designs popular among US TV shows celebrities.

All photos by Lucia Carpio for My Fashion Connect Global.