Bemberg™ celebrates the 100th edition of Pitti Uomo by forging its support towards the Istituto Secoli in Milan

As the men’s fashion week Pitti Uomo in Milan will celebrate its 100th edition with the return of its physical show from June 30th until July 2nd, Bemberg™  will showcase six menswear outfits from the cutting-edge collections created by young talents of the Milan fashion institute – Istituto Secoli.

A fashion film entitled “LA FORMA” featuring the talented students is launched to commemorate the occasion.

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Commissione della Forma

100% Bemberg™ fabrics, produced by Tessitura Grisotto of Italy, have been used in a printed version for the creation of these 6 looks comprising shirts, padded outerwear, and quilted sections. Bemberg/Bemberg™ , the brand name of the regenerated cellulose fibre Cupro, produced only by Asahi Kasei, is a fibre that comes from the smart and technologically advanced transformation of cotton linter pre-consumer materials and converted through a traceable and transparent closed-loop process. Its unique characteristics includes exceptional touch, soft and smooth as silk, like second skin, with brilliance and radiance.  It also has anti-static and breathable qualities, while being biodegradable and compostable.

Bemberg™ is also partner of C.L.A.S.S. the international ecohub founded by Giusy Bettoni in 2007 which has established itself as a reference point in the fashion and textile business for brands, designers, manufacturers, students and and all those determined to make fashion smarter.

European shows are rescheduled, cancelled or staged digitally

While it may seem optimistic or ambitious even to announce or organise 2021 trade shows in the current pandemic climate, trade event organisers recognise the continued importance of such professional events for business developments of the various sectors.  When physical shows are not possible, digital events take their place.

Paris Men’s Fashion Week and Haute Couture Week will still proceed this January but all shows and presentations will be held online only without live audiences, according to the Federation de la Haute Couture et de la Mode, due to Covid-19 restrictios in France and public gatherings are prohibited.

Although fashion houses and brands can still organise meetings as well as live shows with models, these are to be done behind closed doors, under strict coronavirus guidelines, including only a limited number of people can be present at the same time in any given space.

Paris Men’s Fashion Week runs from January 19 to 24 and reportedly the provisional calendar at the moment includes Louis Vuitton, Rick Owens, Issey Miyake, Dries Van Noten, Dior Homme, Paul Smith, Wales Bonner, Hermes, Vetements, Jil Sander, Thom Browne and Celine.

Haute Couture Week is running from January 25 to 27, with the provisional schedule opening on the Monday with Schiaparelli, Iris Van Herpen, Christian Dior and Giambattista Valli.  Following on the Tuesday will be Chanel, Stéphane Rolland, Alexandre Vauthier, Giorgio Armani Privé and Valentino. The third day will feature Maison Margiela, Elie Saab, Viktor and Rolf, Zuhair Murad, and Jean Paul Gaultier.

International audiences can access the shows on the Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode’s online platform at www.fhcm.paris.  

In Italy the winter editions of the Pitti Immagine Uomo and Pitti Immagine Bimbo respectively leading menswear and childrenswear trade shows, along side knitwear show Filati, all originally scheduled to take place in January, have now been pushed back to 21-23 February due to Covid-19. Organisers say the events based in Florence will encompass three extraordinary days of special events, installations and live digital features.

Also in February 2021, Copenhagen Fashion Week will be a fully digital edition while other related trade shows such as Revolver and CIFF have been cancelled thanks to restrictions of going development of Covid-19. This February digital show will allow brands to present their seasonal collections to an  international audience, between 2-4 February 2021 via Copenhagen Fashion Week's new digital platform on www.copenhagenfashionweek.com, which will be launched on 14 January. The show schedule has already been published and the talks program will be announced in mid-January.

Cecilie Thorsmark, CEO of Copenhagen Fashion Week says they hope the physical shows will return in August 2021.

Meanwhile in Paris, while Messe Frankfurt France recently announed the cancellation of their February 2021 textile trade shows, they are offering an alternative solution to the international industry fashion players with a new event from February 1 to 5 at the Atelier Richelieu, in the heart of Paris.

Texworld Evolution Paris - Le Showroom will allow buyers and designers to explore offers from a selected number of exhibitors from the sister events of Apparel Sourcing, Avantex, Leatherworld and Texworld Paris.

Upon invitation at the time slot of their choice, visitors will have direct access, in optimal conditions of comfort and security, to the textile and clothing collections arranged around two main areas:

• A Trend Forum imagined by the artistic directors of Texworld Evolution Paris, Louis Gérin and Grégory Lamaud, will offer to the buyers a creative inspiration book elaborated around a selection of textile and clothing samples that will become the fashion of spring-summer 2022.

• A Library will unveil, by categories, a precise selection of several thousands of fabrics samples and finished goods to be discovered in specially designed areas that will facilitate the professionals' journey.

Upon arrival at the showroom, buyers will be provided with a digital tool specifically developed to facilitate direct contact with manufacturers for expressing interest, requesting samples or quotations. Le Showroom is therefore an innovative response to ensure that this essential connection between the international garment industry and textile and clothing buyers is maintained, and to prepare for the July 2021 trade shows.

“Le Showroom is the first international professional textile event to be held in Paris within a year and offers a new way of organizing fashion sourcing, explains Frédéric Bougeard, President of Messe Frankfurt France. 

Also the international Première Vision Paris show for all sectors of the textile and materials industry will be holding a digital show for its February edition, presaging the continued health constraints on a global scale.

The PV Paris digital show will run from February 15 to 19, with the introduction of new services for the industry thus refleting the marked acceleration of the group's digitization. Première Vision will also be bringing online its new website, to be rolled out in several stages over the coming year, which will bring together all its trade shows and its own Marketplace platform.

Throughout the last few months, Première Vision has been engaged in supporting the international fashion industry as it faces the difficult challenges posed by the Covid-19 health crisis, introducing new and innovative e-commerce features to its Marketplace, and speeding the development of its digital system.

The organisers announced their December 2020 Digital Denim Week (held from November 30th to December 4th in lieu of Denim Première Vision) was successfully launched, allowing some 4,661 industry professionals (the number of unique visitors) to participate and build their denim collections for Spring-Summer 22. These included international buyers from the world's most creative fashion companies - fashion and luxury brands, pure players in jeanswear, web players, etc.

In comparison, the December 2019, Denim Première Vision held in London show, which was a physical event, welcomed nearly 2,000 visitors, they reported.

Pitti Uomo, Pitti Bimbo and Pitti Filati cancelled summer 2020 shows.

Pitti Uomo, the Italian trade show for menswear has joined the fate of Pitti Bimbo and Pitti Filati by the same organiser Pitti Immagine, has announced its cancellation to this year’s summer event.  It will next take place in January 2021.

The organisers said although they have originally moved the summer edition of the menswear show in Florence from August to September 2 – 4, it was in the end not feasible to host the event this year due to lack of participants and lingering difficulties faced by the industry due to the Covid-19 pandemic.

Pitti Immagine’s board of directors now have decided to concentrate their effort on the shows’ digital version, Pitti Connect, set to go live between the end of June and the beginning of July.
“It's much more than a virtual showroom,” said the General Manager of Pitti Immagine, Agostino Poletto, as reported in Fashion Network. “It is a sophisticated networking and marketing tool that will enable exhibitors to boost their visibility with tens of thousands of recognised buyers, to activate targeted, certified commercial contacts, receive support in their order management process, and stage live events and presentations.”  He adds that Pitti Connect “will showcase collections and products by theme, will promote emerging talents, stimulate debate on the hottest current issues, and feature collaborations and partnerships with the media and other fashion industry players.”

Innovative treatment of wool the highlight of International Woolmark Prize

Wool used in a variety of creative ways, with innovative treatments have won three designers top accolade at the 2017/18 InternationalWoolmark Prize

(L-R) Designers Matthew Miller, Christopher Bevans of DYNE and Ruchika Sachdeva of BODICE - winners of the International Woolmark Prize 2017/2018 on January 9, 2018 in Florence, Italy.
(Photo by Elisabetta Villa/Getty Images for the Woolmark Company) 

Matthew Miller’s winning collection has been described by Vogue Italia Editor-in-Chief
Emanuele Farneti as well-balanced with attractive price points.

Winner of the Menswear 2017/2018 International Woolmark Prize was British designer Matthew Miller.

At a special event during the Pitti Uomo menswear fair at Stazione Leopolda in Florence, Italy on 9^th January, Matthew’s winning collection was described by one of the judges Vogue Italia Editor-in-Chief Emanuele Farneti as well-balanced with attractive price points. “He showed a good combination between innovation, commercial viability and pieces which will be worn by men on the street," said Emanuele.

By taking up the idea of “form follows function” inspired by designer and philosopher Dieter Rams, Matthew added multifunctional elements for different environments, such as the addition of the garment belt system which acts as a way to turn the garment into an accessory in warmer climates.  Miller treated wool in a variety of ways, according to the IWS, including innovative treatments to create water resistant fabrics and has erased the need for plastic fastenings by using recycled material, such as waste marble.  Using Australian Merino wool ranging from 17.5 to 20.5 microns, Matthew developed the inherent character of each piece as his design philosophy.

The event also saw womenswear winner Bodice and Innovation Award winner DYNE awarded for their wool-rich collections.

Ruchika Sachdeva of Bodice produced an elegant collection honouring Australian Merino wool and the artisans of her country, India.

Representing India, Pakistan and the Middle East, Bodice by designer Ruchika Sachdevawas was  praised for her technique and the manufacturing process. 

Inspired by her grandmother who used to upcycle saris into quilts, Bodice addressed the issue of consumer waste in fashion with traditional techniques of recycling and cultural beliefs in the spiritual power of cloth to affect our well-being.   Judge womenswear designer Phillip Lim described Bodice's collection as "completely thoughtful". "From the ingredients and dyes used all the way to the application and everything in between, her collection really represents a modern woman."

Collaborating with hand weavers and encouraging them to take an unorthodox approach to traditional techniques, Ruchika Sachdeva produced an elegant collection honouring Australian Merino wool and the artisans of her country.  Bodice also worked with Bio-Dye in Sawantwadi, central India, which makes all colours from natural sources. The colour palette of navy and forest green mixed with pink and green pastels contains natural dyes and are safe for the skin - a nod to the ancient practices of Ayurveda. Completing the label's holistic approach, Bodice sourced buttons from renewable sources of coconut shell, seashell, and wood.

The collection of DYNE by Christopher Bevans comprised a technical snowboarding wardrobe, complete with an NFC chip in the water-resistant wool jacket to track users in avalanches and
ultimately bridge the gap between the brand and the consumer.

The Innovation Award powered by Future Tech Lab celebrates the collection with the most innovative and creative wool fabrication, process or development was awarded to DYNE by Christopher Bevans who according to the Woolmark Company demonstrated the most exciting approach to help reduce its social and environmental footprint. 

“For me he was definitely the leader in innovation,” said judge Miroslava Duma. “He really thinks about technology every step of the way.”

Inspired by learning to snowboard in the 1980s - in a wool bomber jacket - the DYNE collection  comprises a technical snowboarding wardrobe, complete with an NFC chip in the water-resistant wool jacket to track users in avalanches and ultimately bridge the gap between the brand and the consumer. DYNE describes itself as "liminal, as its garments are designed to operate on both sides of every threshold, and to break the existing barriers of fabric, fit and function."

The collection, crafted from Merino wool ranging between 17 and 19.5 microns, includes zip-up hoodies, track pants, trench coats and pullovers, treated so as to be water-repellent, with reflective overlays and inserts, functional pocket zips, laser-cut details and, in certain instances, two-way stretch.

The menswear and womenswear winners each receives AU$200,000 to help support the development of their business. They will also receive ongoing industry mentor support, Woolmark certification for their winning collection and the opportunity to be stocked in some of the world’s most prestigious department stores and boutiques.  DYNE receives AU$100,000 along with commercial opportunities.

Judges for the awards included Amber Valletta, Elizabeth Von Guttman, Emanuele Farneti, Julie Davies, Livia Firth, Liya Kebede, Miroslava Duma, Nonita Kalra, Phillip Lim, Riccardo Vannetti, Sarah Mower and Stuart McCullough along with representatives from the International Woolmark Prize retail partner network.

(Photos by Elisabetta Villa/Getty Images for the Woolmark Company)

Winners of the 2017/18 International Woolmark Prize Announced

 Just announced during the Pitti Uomo menswear fair at Stazione Leopolda this week in Florence are winners of the 2017/18 International Woolmark Prize.

Models on stage at the International Woolmark Prize 2017/2018 on January 9, 2018 in Florence, Italy.
(Photo by Elisabetta Villa/Getty Images for the Woolmark Company)

(L - R) Matthew Miller (Menswear winner from the UK), Christopher Bevans of Dyne (Inaugural Innovation award winner) and Ruchika Sachdeva  (Womenswear winner representing India, Pakistan and the Middle East ) at the International Woolmark Prize 2017/2018 event on January 9, 2018 in Florence, Italy. 
(Photo by Elisabetta Villa/Getty Images for the Woolmark Company) 

The womenswear, menswear and inaugural Innovation Awardwinners were announced after being judged by an international panel of movers and shakers and influencers of the fashion industry: Amber Valletta, Elizabeth Von Guttman, Emanuele Farneti, Julie Davies, Livia Firth, Liya Kebede, Miroslava Duma, Nonita Kalra, Phillip Lim, Riccardo Vannetti, Sarah Mower and Stuart McCullough along with representatives from the International Woolmark Prize retail partner network.

Emanuele Farneti, Giuseppe Angiolini and Samantha McCoach are seen backstage at the International Woolmark Prize 2017/2018 on January 9, 2018 in Florence, Italy.
(Photo by Elisabetta Villa/Getty Images for the Woolmark Company)

“Today (January 9^th) we saw the world’s best emerging designers present a true celebration of fashion design and innovation, as they shone the spotlight on Australian Merino wool,” said The Woolmark Company Managing Director Stuart McCullough.

 Livia Firth (L) and Six Lee (R) are seen backstage at the International Woolmark Prize 2017/2018 on January 9, 2018 in Florence, Italy. (Photo by Elisabetta Villa/Getty Images for the Woolmark Company) 

“Each year, the competition has been fierce and this year was no different. I would also like to commend the mills and spinners who supplied the labels with luxury fabrics and yarns and assisted in the development of innovative fabrications.”

More than 65 designers from more than 60 countries were nominated for this year’s award, with finalists representing six different regions around the world. The global finalists were SixLee and KYE (Asia), Blair Archibald and Harman Grubiša (Australia & New Zealand), Matthew Miller and Le Kilt (British Isles), L'Homme Rouge and David Laport (Europe), Antar-Agni and Bodice (Indian Subcontinent and Middle East) and DYNE and Zaid Affas (USA).

The menswear and womenswear winners each receives AU$200,000 to help support the development of their business. They also receive ongoing industry mentor support, Woolmark certification for their winning collection and the opportunity to be stocked in some of the world’s most prestigious department stores and boutiques, including Boutique 1, Boon The Shop, David Jones, Harvey Nichols, Hudson's Bay, Lane Crawford, LECLAIREUR, mytheresa.com, ORDRE, Parlour X, Ssense.com, Sugar and Tata CLiQ Luxury.  The Innovation Award winner will receive $100,000 along with commercial opportunities.

 (Backstage photos above and below by Elisabetta Villa/Getty Images for the Woolmark Company)

The Woolmark Company have had the support of Fondazione Pitti Discovery and Pitti Uomo, TONI&GUY hair specialists, makeup by MAC, ORDRE and Future Tech Lab for the 2017/18 International Woolmark Prize global final.