As the denim industry continues to navigate changing consumer expectations, sustainability challenges and the demand for greater product differentiation, the relationship between creative design and technical innovation is becoming increasingly important. Against this backdrop, Denim Première Vision will use its Milan edition, taking place on 25–26 November 2026 at Superstudio Più, to explore how collaboration across the supply chain can generate new directions for denim.
Bringing together 60 carefully selected exhibitors representing the entire denim value chain, the event will place material research and creative experimentation at the centre of its offering. A major highlight will be DENIM, RECAST., an ambitious collaborative project developed with avant-garde fashion label BOTTER, founded by designers Rushemy Botter and Lisi Herrebrugh.
More than a designer showcase, the initiative reflects a growing recognition that innovation in denim depends not only on new materials and production technologies, but also on closer interaction between designers, textile specialists and manufacturers. By bringing these different areas of expertise together, Denim Première Vision aims to demonstrate how creative concepts can be translated into commercially relevant material developments and garment solutions.
Bridging creative vision and industrial expertise
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| ©Photographer: Aliocha Boi / Stylist: Omaima Salem / Creative direction: Benjamin Grillon / For: BOTTER / With the contribution of HOWA CO. LTD |
DENIM, RECAST. explores new possibilities for denim through textile developments, experimental washes and finishes, printing, bonding and innovative garment constructions. At its heart is an open atelier designed to expose the research and technical processes that normally remain behind the scenes, from initial inspiration and material selection to experimentation, prototyping and garment development.
The project also offers a new perspective on BOTTER's established creative philosophy of Caribbean Couture, which draws on the cultural richness and resourcefulness of the Caribbean, combining these influences with precise tailoring, technical research and a strong commitment to environmental responsibility. Rooted in the designers' heritage, this approach considers clothing not simply as a product, but as an expression of culture and identity.
For BOTTER, the collaboration provides an opportunity to investigate how a familiar material such as denim can be reinterpreted through different textures, treatments and combinations. For the manufacturers involved, it offers a platform to apply their technical knowledge to a designer-led creative challenge, potentially opening up new applications for existing technologies and production capabilities.
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| BOTTER founders. |
“We are drawn to the way surfaces evolve under the influence of their environment and over time. This inspires us to experiment with textures and processes, allowing unexpected qualities to emerge from the material. It is an ongoing exploration of how a familiar material can take on new expressions,” said Rushemy Botter and Lisi Herrebrugh, founders of BOTTER.
The relationship between BOTTER and Première Vision dates back to 2018, when the designers won the Première Vision Grand Jury Prize at the 33rd Hyères Festival with their menswear collection Fish or Fight, selected by a jury chaired by Haider Ackermann. Their return through this new initiative reinforces a shared interest in craftsmanship, material innovation and the creative potential of textile development.
Making innovation visible
The open atelier will be a central feature of the Milan presentation, functioning as a combination of creative studio, material library and experimental laboratory. Rather than displaying only finished garments, it will reveal the different stages of development, including fabric research, experimental printing and bonding, washing tests, garment constructions and prototypes.
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| ©Photographer: Aliocha Boi / Stylist: Omaima Salem / Creative direction: Benjamin Grillon / For: BOTTER |
Early-stage trials will be presented alongside more advanced developments, illustrating how ideas are tested, adapted and refined through technical dialogue. Some investigations will result in dedicated materials and processes for BOTTER's forthcoming collection, while others will remain exploratory.
This emphasis on process is significant for an industry in which innovation is often communicated through finished products, new collections or technical claims. By making the experimentation itself visible, Denim Première Vision is highlighting the importance of specialist knowledge and the collaborative relationships required to turn creative ambitions into viable textile and garment developments.
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| ©Photographer: Aliocha Boi / Stylist: Omaima Salem / Creative direction: Benjamin Grillon / For: BOTTER |
The project brings together a carefully selected group of industry partners, each contributing a specific area of expertise.
ISKO and Kahiara are involved in selecting and developing the denim fabrics that will form the material foundation of the project and support BOTTER's upcoming collection. ACM Next Printing is investigating printing and bonding technologies to create new surfaces and material combinations.
Japanese specialist HOWA contributes its expertise in artisanal washing, denim garment production, knitwear and garment dyeing, while Tonello is exploring advanced washing technologies, including more sustainable processes and innovative finishes. M&J Genesis brings its knowledge of authentic denim laundry processes and manufacturing, supporting garment construction, development and finishing.
The research also extends to accessories and cross-category material applications. BAP Buttons is developing exclusive buttons made from antique coins, introducing distinctive details that reflect BOTTER's design language. Portuguese textile specialist Lemar, recognised for its expertise in swimwear fabrics, is investigating the combination of denim and swimwear, exploring the potential of different textile structures, performances and material identities.
Together, these contributions demonstrate how innovation can emerge from combining established manufacturing capabilities in unexpected ways, rather than relying exclusively on entirely new materials or technologies.
International sourcing reflects the breadth of the denim supply chain
Alongside the BOTTER initiative, Denim Première Vision will present an international sourcing platform reflecting the diversity of the global denim industry. Fabric and denim mills account for 60% of the 60 exhibitors, with garment manufacturers representing 16% and accessory suppliers 6%. The remaining offering includes specialists in chemicals and fibres.
The exhibitor profile underlines the continuing importance of fabric development and material expertise within the denim supply chain, while also providing access to garment production and complementary components.
The Mediterranean region will be strongly represented, with Italian and Tunisian manufacturers forming an important part of the offering. Türkiye will have a significant presence with 10 exhibitors, while Asia will also be well represented through seven Chinese companies, six Japanese mills and two exhibitors from Bangladesh. New participants include Sumitomo Chemicals and Kahiara.
Established industry names such as Sharabati, Pioneer Denim, Maritas, HOWA, Kuroki and Advance Denim will showcase the range of manufacturing and textile expertise available. The participation of Pakistani manufacturers Asghar Nine and Chottani Industries further broadens the geographical representation.
Responsible production will also feature through initiatives involving the European Recycling Project (ERP) and Chloris, reflecting the industry's continuing attention to sustainability and resource management.
“For the past ten years, our show has been committed to bringing together a carefully curated selection of exhibitors, with quality always at the heart of our approach. Our goal is to offer visitors an enriching and inspiring experience by showcasing the diversity of the denim industry across its entire value chain, from mass-market to premium and luxury segments,” said Fabio Adami Dalla Val, Show Manager of Denim Première Vision.
A broader role for the denim trade show
The Milan edition highlights an evolving role for Denim Première Vision: moving beyond the traditional function of a sourcing exhibition towards becoming a meeting point for creative development, technical exchange and industrial innovation.
The BOTTER collaboration is particularly relevant in demonstrating how designer-led experimentation can give manufacturers new perspectives on their capabilities, while offering designers direct access to the specialist knowledge needed to realise more ambitious concepts. Such exchanges can help strengthen the connection between design and production at a time when differentiation, material performance, craftsmanship and more responsible manufacturing are increasingly important to the industry's future.
By bringing together an international selection of suppliers with a hands-on exploration of creative and technical processes, Denim Première Vision is seeking to offer more than a snapshot of the current denim market. DENIM, RECAST. provides a platform to question established approaches to the material and explore how new ideas can emerge through collaboration across the value chain.
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