Canadian brand NONE OF MY BUSINESS SS23 Collection

Canadian brand NONE OF MY BUSINESS condones a strong, exaggerated silhouette for Spring/Summer 2023.

The adrogenous Eyes Wide Shut women's collection is a sequel to its predecessor in addressing the major social dilemmas our generation faces, explains the brand.  As the name suggests, the collection was inspired by the 1999 Stanley Kubrick movie of the same title which, since its release, has attracted a multitude of controversies and conspiracies.

In fact, the subjects of class, capitalism, power, and money inspired a deeper analysis into how these driving forces affect human interactions. 

The brand says extreme wealth often leads to the loss of touch with reality, abuse of power, and this desperate search for constant pleasure which we all subconsciously seek. 

When the established norms that exists in our society don’t apply, the dark and usually inaccessible parts of ourselves resurface no matter how grotesque they may be.

In the words of NOMB, the brand offers this safe space for those who don’t belong and who never got the chance to express themselves in the confines of our reality. Absurd stiffness in the garments, exaggerated silhouettes, and dramatic stances work together to create a contradiction between the conventionally attractive vs. the unattractive. 

NOMB invites you into this dramatic interpretation of the fine line that exists between fantasy and reality – the untold stories of the subconscious. The result is intentionally odd to allow the viewers to objectively suggest their own interpretation on the collection.

From My Mother’s Garden's limited edition prints inspired by the wonders of nature

Christmas is just around the corner and it is this time of the year that we particularly are thinking of our family.  Thus it is understandable that British brand From My Mother’s Garden, which only started in 2019, has been a hit with customers.  

Made of a lightweight sustainable fabric, this long robe/duster coat in one of
From My Mother's Garden's exclusive prints based on a magnolia tree. 

Created by Dorset boutique owner, Penny Callaghan was inspired by her mother’s garden and their close mother & daughter bond, and the happy times they have spent there together.

From My Mother’s Garden is a collection of limited edition kimonos, robes and womenswear featuring sustainable fabrics that capture the vibrant colours and magical beauty of nature.

From My Mother’s Garden’s reversible velvet kimono jacket with a print based on a dandelion clock
in blue and silver print with a midnight blue reverse.

From My Mother's Garden's semi-sheer scarf made of sustainable bamboo in an exclusive
 Wishes print in dark blue and cobalt shades features a dandelion clock. 

From My Mother's Garden Hooded Raincoat - Autumn Leaves
- made of a waterproofed recycled polyester and cotton mix. The raincoat has a detachable hood and a zip and popper fastening.

Founder Penny said the collection was launched just before the first UK lockdown. “Just when I thought everything was lost, I found that as we emerged out of Lockdown into Summer 2020, so did an enthusiasm for the collection. It seemed to resonate with customers either because it reminded them of the bond they had with their mother, or because they loved the nature-inspired themes and colours. Added to which I use where possible, sustainable fabrics and environmentally-friendly manufacturing techniques such as sublimation printing for minimal wastage,” explained Penny.

From My Mother's Garden Bamboo Harmony Scarf

From My Mother's Garden Lightweight Long Robe in a Hydrangea print

From My Mother's Garden Lightweight Kimono in a best-selling print: Waterlily

From My Mother's Garden is now selling in boutiques, art galleries and gift shops around the UK and on its website.

Paul Costelloe Autumn/Winter 2021 Collection celebrates 35 years on the London Fashion Week catwalk.

The Paul Costelloe Autumn/Winter 2021 Collection inspires me to get out of my comfy work-from-home casuals and dress up again like I used to, when going to the office was a regular affair.

I'm imagining myself putting on make-up, wearing seriously bold accessories, stockings and even proper shoes with heels.

“After a year of uncertainty, the Costelloe woman is bold, brave and optimistic”. says Paul Costelloe.

The Irish designer's Autumn/Winter 2021 collection showcased on February 19th as one of the opening day events at London Fashio Week is a reflection on the designer’s early days as a young designer in Paris in the late 60’s and early 70’s. 

With a sense of athleticism and freedom, Costelloe tailoring is back, in sculptured outerwear, sharp suiting and softly constructed eveningwear.

Colours hit all the right Autumnal tones, with yellow ochre’s, cedar greens, burnt oranges and midnight blues presented in bold checks, wool plaids and modern, geometric prints.

In house designed prints by William Costelloe are presented in full body suits and stretch leggings.

As ever, Paul has sourced the finest fabrics from our great artisans in Europe, with tweeds from Austria, silk organzas from France, and luxe flannels from Italy. Paul Costelloe Bags and Belts are presented in bold, bright structures that add to this powerful statement.

Alianna Liu's AW2020 Collection features tailoring along with puzzle game-inspired motifs

Although Paris-based designer Alianna Liu started her eponymous label only in 2018, her Autumn/Winter 2020 collection shows maturity and an understanding of what women want to wear everyday: well-made high quality designs.  She combines creativity with ingenuity and a good dose of easy-to-understand style .

Describing that at the heart of her collection is Alianna herself, she draws inspiration from fairy tales, emphasizing “our collective desire to remain children forever, even well into adulthood,” she said.  But the end result is very grown-up indeed.

Alianna’s new collection is very wearable, from school-girl suitings to knit tops, cardigans, blouses and billowing tiered skirts to tailored pant-suits with oversized drop-shoulder jackets and matching trousers, and long coats, as well as flattering cape-like jackets and sweaters.  

Alianna says she looks to the ordinary objects and events in life, seeing the extraordinary in the everyday.  Her new Autumn/Winter 2020 collection has been inspired by the puzzle game Tetris, explains the designer, based on her passion for video games by featuring a mix of cubism and pixel art, she created the prints, composed of tetrominoes and other motifs which were hand-drawn by designer.   Note the puzzle game-inspired embroidered motifs to the Napoleonic era-inspired collars, and highlights of silver thread, beads, and sequins.

The fabrics are from France and Italy.  She uses organdie, silk, satin, and velvet for the empire and mermaid flared dress, extolling the female shape. There is virgin wool for the oversize coat as well as cotton for comfort and ease.

“Working from the heart is the key to being a designer,” Alianna explains. “Thanks to my world travel experience, I am able to draw beauty from common life. I want my clients to look at what I have done and to feel what I feel.” In all her works, there is a boldness of colour and a uniqueness of thought, all tapered with her undeniable honesty, which is core to her philosophy as a designer.

After traveling the world, Alianna decided to follow her dream of becoming a designer, so she enrolled in the famous ESMOD Paris to study fashion design, patterning, and embroidery.  She presented her first capsule collection in Paris in 2018.

Pure London showcases Autumn Winter 2017 trends ahead of London Fashion Week

As the fashion buying season in the UK commences and before the fashion world descends upon London Fashion Week which opens in a week's time, the Pure London trade fair showcases the styles and trends for Autumn Winter 2017 at Kensington Olympia between 12 - 14 February.

As part of the highlights of the exhibition where more than 800 exhibitors across womenswear, menswear, footwear and accessories are showcasing under one roof, daily catwalk presentations play out new everyday luxury and directional smart designs from international and British brands.

Key looks include autumn transitional designs in natural and recycled fabric to kickstart the season, while minimalist pieces offer longevity beyond the season.

Dark tones along with muted colours and feminine, deconstructed shapes are pointing to a bold modern look.  On offer are architectural influences, clean lines and utilitarian fabrics.

Look for tactile fabrics including faux furs, wools, tweed, waterproof textiles and mottled surfaces.

For mid-autumn, the colour palette is a natural one; primitive and soft colours include ochre tones, blue contrasts, muted greens and deep browns.

Heritage outdoor styles will see chunky knits, matte textures and woodland tones on sports-inspired elements for a folkloric-centred look.

For winter, there are luxe tailoring and deep majestic jewel tones in dark shades of charcoal, complemented by metallic accents for a sophisticated, sensual winter palette.

Smart materials and inventive innovations lead the way for a tech-savvy trend in line with modern lifestyle.  

Voluminous shapes and stylished details reflect the modern digital age, while minimalist and maximalist styles nod to the past, present and future with subtle period references.   

According to WGSN's director of retail and buying, Sara Maggioni, who gave an overview of the main trends of the AW17 season, the four overarching themes are Design Matters, Earthed, Nocturne and INfusion.  Natural and recyled fabrics kickstart the season, she said, with the overt use of pulped fabrics, repurposed yarns and patched denims expected among the sustainable fashion mix.  While minamalist pieces and light layers for transitional dressing are played out in muted colours, as evidenced here.

All images © Lucia Carpio 2017

Prestige Fashion featured lingerie and womenswear brands at London Old Billingsgate

At the London Yacht, Jet and Prestige Car Show that took place at Old Billingsgate Market in early May, the Prestige Fashion Catwalk Show featured the collections of lingerie brands Raine & Bea and Sonata Rapalyte.  

Celebrity designer Raine & Bea showcased lingerie pieces similar to what they recently designed for singer Fleur East.  Sonata Rapalyte finished the lingerie show with their sheer lace designs, accessorised by jewellery brand Elvyra Design.

In the women’s ready-to-wear segment of the fashion event that formed the grand finale were designs by Monaco based Eva Roje who showed a classic leather collection.  While hand-made body jewellery from ANK Jewellery added sparkle to the event, fashion designer Dahlia Razzook showcased cocktail dresses, trouser and tops.  The Cyprus based designer, madebyZA showcased their chic jackets, dresses and blouses, and Nidhi Yasha presented hand embroidered jackets, dresses and skirts.  British brand Bianca Elgar, styled their beautiful and versatile silk scarves in two different ways on the runway.  Italian designer label Nana e’el’ by Nanaaleo finished the catwalk show with their elegantly hand-knitted dresses.

A selection of luxury swimwear brands was also the highlight of a runway show organised by Prestige Fashion, a partnership between Irina Dobbs (UFFR) and Joseph Bachman of Calico. 

Photos: Prestige Fashion