Kris van Assche of Dior Homme reflects on the house know-how at Paris Fashion Week

Kris van Assche marks his ten years at Dior Homme by shining the spotlight onto the fashion houses' technical know-how championed by its workshop located at 3, Rue de Marignan in the 8th arrondisement of Paris.

His reflections on the process and proportions form the basis of the Spring/summer 2018 collection, highlighting the learned deconstruction and then the reconstruction of the Dior Homme costume this creating impeccably controlled volume effects.

While the designer harks back to the house's traditions, he manages to produce a collection proposing a feeling of innocence emanating from a summer atmosphere, and resulting in a fusion of sportswear and tailoring.

Carved in black wool ottoman, a sculpted and close-fitting blazer inspires many variations, becoming in turn a long summer coat, a jacket without back or sleeves, and a tailcoat. The base of a Dior man jacket is cut to turn into a polo shirt or shirt, or attached directly to the waist of a wide pants creating an urban trompe l'oeil.

As an echo in the transition to adulthood, college details merge with the basics of tailoring: a jacket with bomber sleeves, a logo emblazoned with laurel branches printed on a sweater, or mesh with argyle patterns worn with naive Gothic jewellery.

Mounting points and stitching are used as ornaments, while a monochromatic ribbon displaying the workshop address appears along with the workshop logo, in detail on hooded coats and on the Bags in grained nappa leather.

Ribbed edges and sportswear stripes are among the other key details.

Drawn portraits, hooded silhouettes and dark orchids bring touches of cyan and yellow to a palette worn by vermilion red, burgundy, camel and sky blue.

Pictures courtesy of Dior.

Pure Versace SS18 – fresh attitude, easy energy and a passion

Milan Fashion Week Spring-Summer 2018: Versace

“This collection is like a homecoming. It’s about the passions that define Versace, the complexity of men, the energy of today.” Donatella Versace

Tailoring along with strong prints, silk shirts, tracksuits, biker jackets and bombers, parachute trousers and trench coats -  they are all there in Versace's SS2018 Collection shown at Milan Fashion Week, pulled together by the label's fresh attitude, easy energy and a passion that runs deep in the new collection.

Pinstripes are refreshed and remixed:  strong-shouldered tailoring, and shirts where different pinstripes are contrasted and clashed.

The new power of Versace prints: the utility of a tech blouson is contrasted with the romance of its “Balletto” print, while the “Angelo” print appears on a sharp quilted bomber.

Versace silk shirts are made modern, with two shirts cut up and combined, or the optical print shirt cropped to just show above the waist of black silk utility shorts.

Knits are playful, like the cotton knit red twinsets with a bead and crystal crown embellishment, or diagonal cut knits that add dynamism to the layers.   Biker jackets and pants are given unexpected softness in black silk, complete with quilted padding.

Silk pyjamas are the perfect luxury for day. A classic Versace logo looks totally new, embroidered in white stitches on a baby blue or pale pink T-shirt, worn with matching straight leg jeans.

Parachute pants have zips at the side for a volume that’s then gathered by drawstrings, while utility blousons have lattice lacing on the sleeves.

Leather trench coats are created from intricate patchworks of leather squares, the corners held as if by a bolt. They come in black or black-and-white check.

On the other hand, sports influences play their part.
Baby pink tracksuits are in cotton velour textured with a baroque jacquard, while stonewash denim jackets are cut and patchworked with Versace denim prints. Metal chains stitched through tailoring create an eloquent evening take on the pinstripe. The “Cornice” print appears on a sharply tailored silk blazer.

A special Womenswear capsule collection shows the unity of the Versace world: pinstripes, cut-and-clashed prints, rich embroideries. 

Discover more at: www.versace.com

Spring Summer 2018 Menswear - The Arthur Avellano way.

Arthur Avellano introduces his Spring/Summer 2018 menswear collection in latex and leather plus a hose of materials to convey a message of insolence.

This was Arthur Avellan's first fashion show during Paris Fashion Week.  Entitled Chute Libre, Arthur is inspired by films of Joël Schumacher (who commands a cult following,) "telling the story of a man who is
disconnected from the pretense of modern society, fascinated by the inherent slippage of the pressure of the social mask which muzzles our impulses".

Similarly, Arthur puts into perspective the subjects associated with fetishism:
latex, leather, spandex and transposes them into modern menswear featuring basics pieces based on sportswear as well as tailoring.

The 25-year-old Paris-based designer says he wants to bring his unique take on men's dressing, riding on the margins of the androgynous movement, applying a certain elegance to menswear.

It is in his use of latex that is inspiring.

In collaboration with specialized laboratories, Arthur injects originality into his brand thanks to an innovative textile research by developing a unique material, a hybrid latex with properties close to leather in look and texture, its drape and its unique reflection.  While using latex as if it is leather, he also combines it with neoprene for a "sensorial" look.

After studying at the prestigious Ecole Supérieure des Beux Arts in Toulouse and doing a training at the school of Le Chambre Syndicale, Arthur Avellano integrates the Atelier Chardon Savard.

In 2015, his graduate collection the FEAST OF TRIMALCHIO attracted wide acclaim and was  awarded Best graduate collection at the Who's Next trade fair.

Artthur Avellano has also been invited to participate in fashion weeks in New York, Milan and Vietnam.  In 2016 Arthur created his workshop, launched his eponymous brand and collaborated
with other labels, among them Neith Nyer.

All images from Autrement PR