Showing posts with label Paris Fashion Week 2024. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Paris Fashion Week 2024. Show all posts

Tuesday, 1 October 2024

Paris Fashion Week: ChoCheung's SS 2025 collection blending humour with glamour

For Spring/Summer 2025, CHOCHENG, the New York-based label founded by designer Cho Cho Cheng, takes inspiration from the timeless charm of French model-actress Capucine and the iconic film The Pink Panther, blending humour and glamour.  Here's a selection of ensembles taken from ChoCheung's SS2025 recent show during Paris Fashion Week.


This season's colour palette bursts with the vibrant energy of "fruit punch" hues—orange, lime, raspberry, pink, red, green, black, and white—evoking the playful boldness of 1960s French detective comedies.

CHOCHENG's hallmark attention to detail shines through intricate handsewn petals, braids, and ruffles, while hand-beaded crystals on cotton tulle ruffles nod to the opulence of fur collars. 

The collection continues the brand’s commitment to using natural and upcycled fabrics, featuring cotton crepe in shirts, cotton velvet for eveningwear, and cotton boucle in tailored pieces. A standout this season is lightweight cotton gabardine, perfect for crisp day-to-evening looks and spring tailoring.


Patterned fabrics also play a key role, with crystal-beaded hounds-tooth in orange, green, black, and white adding a striking, modern touch. Silhouettes strike a balance between structure and fluidity, embodying a harmonious mix of whimsical glamour and refined tailoring.

Once again, the Spring/Summer 2025 collection highlights CHOCHENG’s dedication to meticulous craftsmanship, with every piece reflecting the designer’s vision of elegant, playful fashion.


Photos by Li Dong courtesy of ChoCheung


Monday, 4 March 2024

Fashion Exhibition and Culture: "Sheer : The diaphanous creations of Yves Saint Laurent" all the rage in Paris

As exemplified by designer Anthony Vaccarello's latest collection for Saint Laurent and echoed in numerous shows (from Chloé and Courrèges to Givenchy) during this season's Paris Fashion Week, sheer and see-through fabrics have reemerged as a dominating trend for Autumn/Winter 2024 in the world of fashion.

"Sheer: The Diaphanous Creations of Yves Saint Laurent" (running until August 25 2024)
at the Musée Yves Saint Laurent in Paris 

Yves Saint Laurent championed the notion of transparency back in 1966 with his first see-through look and two years later his emblematic now-famous "see-through blouse," a chiffon creation provocatively worn without anything underneath as observed in the recent trends, highlighting the enduring impact of Yves Saint Laurent's designs with sheer fabrics retaining its powerful allure.

Vaccarello's emphasis on transparency serves as a connection between the past and present, prompting contemplation on the transformation of fashion aesthetics and societal norms.  In this autumn/winter 2024 collection, he prominently featured sheer fabrics, with a majority of models confidently showcasing bare breasts under translucent blouses, fitted T-shirts, and sleeveless tops. Some even adorned transparent pencil skirts, revealing high-legged knickers underneath.  The allure of Saint Laurent's designs has transcended the runway, captivating stars to don these daring creations on the red carpet during the current awards season.

The Musée Yves Saint Laurent in Paris is currently presenting a timely exhibition titled "Sheer: The Diaphanous Creations of Yves Saint Laurent" (running until August 25 2024). This exhibition spotlights the designer's groundbreaking exploration of transparency in fashion. In conjunction with concurrent exhibitions at the Fondation Louis Vuitton and Fondation Azzedine Alaïa, this cultural trifecta provides a distinctive diversion amid the vibrant activities of Paris Fashion Week.


Exhibition Catalogue
Forewords and essays: Elsa Janssen, Anne-Claire Laronde, Emilie Hammen, Shazia Boucher, Domitille Eblé, Judith Lamas, Alice Coulon-Saillard, Sophie Henwood. 
Graphic designer: Agnès Dahan. Photograph: Patricia Canino
Published by LIENART, 128 pages, 100 illustrations. On sale at the bookshop
.

This exhibition signifies the second installment of a narrative that commenced last summer at the Museum of Lace and Fashion in Calais.  With curator Anne Dressen serving as its artistic advisor, the "Sheer" exhibition has been crafted by Pauline Marchetti, an architect whose work delves into the interplay of perception and space.

Featuring approximately 40 textile pieces, the exhibition showcases iconic Yves Saint Laurent creations, such as the groundbreaking topless blouse from spring-summer 1968 and the feather-belted dress. Additionally, it includes more distinctive pieces, some sourced from the SAINT LAURENT rive gauche collections.

Furthermore, the exhibition unveils previously undisclosed aspects of the creative process, including patterns on tracing paper and a collection of drawings by Yves Saint Laurent influenced by the paintings of Goya.


Friday, 1 March 2024

Fashion Catwalk: Belgian designer Ariane Theunissen AW24 collection emphasises Cut and Volume

Belgian designer Ariane Theunissen's Autumn-Winter 2024 collection continues to explore the image of a liberated woman through strong, in entirely monochrome looks. 

It remains faithful to the brand's refined, sensual image, while bringing a breath of modernity to women's ready-to-wear.



This season, Belgian designer Ariane Theunissen emphasises cut and volume, revealing the power of her silhouettes at her catwalk show presented at the Palais de Tokyo during this Paris Fashion Week.


Ariane plays with transparency, combined with sculptural cuts to emphasize a shapely silhouette, contrasted with faux-furs and giant hats.




The designer explains the aim with this THEUNISSEN AW24 collection is to appropriate the clichés of a sometimes austere bourgeoisie, and play with them, by placing more daring garments revealing feminine curves. 

Photos from THEUNISSEN/Totem Fashion.

Monday, 26 February 2024

Fashion & Culture: Chanel show in London ending soon; Paris Fashion Week runs February 26 to March 5

From February 26 to March 5, 2024, Paris is once again the epicenter of an exciting array of runway events and presentations for its Fashion Week, showcasing the latest women's ready-to-wear collections for the upcoming Autumn-Winter 2024-2025 season.

In spite of the rain, Paris remains an enchanting destination for both tourists
and the worldwide fashion community. Photo by Lucia  Carpio.

Despite the forecasted rain showers during these few days, the unpredictable weather won't dampen Paris' allure as it captivates the attention of the global fashion community. The city is set to attract celebrities, international buyers, journalists, and influencers, reinforcing its status as a beacon of style.

A shop in the Carousel de Louvre, Paris, selling Paris 2024 Summer Olympics momentos and keepsakes.
Photo by Lucia Carpio
Beyond its prominent role in the fashion world, Paris is renowned as the city of love, gastronomy, and culture. It is also the host of the 2024 Summer Olympics.  This week, the City of Lights is poised to come alive with the dynamic energy of fashion shows presented by esteemed fashion houses, beloved designers, and emerging fashion stars. While attending these shows in person may pose a challenge, some brands are embracing virtual accessibility through their websites or social networks, ensuring that fashion enthusiasts worldwide can experience the event in real-time.

Speaking of Parisian fashion, Chanel, one of France's most revered design houses, will stage its fashion show on March 5th 2024 as one of the main events to close Paris Fashion Week. 

The sell-out exhibition "Gabrielle Chanel: Fashion Manifesto," at London's Victoria & Albert Museum
is closing on March 10th, 2024.
The V&A museum shop is stocked with souvenirs of the exhibition.
Photo by Lucia Carpio

Chanel's illustrious founder, Gabrielle Chanel (1883 – 1971), affectionately known as Coco, is hailed as one of the most successful "couturière" of the 20th century. Currently showcased at London's prestigious Victoria & Albert Museum (V&A) is the sell-out exhibition "Gabrielle Chanel: Fashion Manifesto," running since September 2023, and now concluding on March 10th, 2024 (after an extension from the original closing date of February 24th). 

Chanel's brand and personal style became synonymous with sophistication and luxury, making her a prominent figure among the fashionable elite.  The legacy of the House of CHANEL is intricately tied to the evolution of Chanel's iconic design style, a lasting influence that continues to shape the way women dress today.
Replicating the Chanel apartment on 31 rue Cambon, Paris, is a spiral staircase lined with mirrors at
the "Gabrielle Chanel: Fashion Manifesto" exhibition in the London's Victoria & Albert Museum.

Photo by Lucia Carpio
Although tickets have been sold out for months, gaining entrance is still possible by becoming a member of the V&A, ensuring immediate admission.  So hurry up if you still haven't seen this showcase on the life and works of Coco Chanel, who has taught the world how to dress tastefully, elegantly and with superb class.
Gabrielle (Coco) Chanel, photographed by Roger Schall for Vogue, May 1938.
Photograph: Condé Nast/ Shutterstock, 
courtesy of Victoria & Albert Museum, London, UK

Gabrielle (Coco) Chanel, was a pioneering fashion designer whose innovative concepts revolutionized the fashion industry in the early 20th century. Her design philosophy was grounded in simplicity, comfort, and functionality, deviating from the elaborate and restrictive fashion trends of her time.

Chanel's tweed suits are iconic, featuring boxy jackets with contrasting trim and slim skirts, providing a chic and modern alternative to traditional women's attire. 
Photo by Lucia Carpio

The key concepts of her designs are timeless elegance (she believed in creating pieces that could withstand changing trends and remain relevant over time), comfort and functionality (she challenged the prevailing corseted and constrictive styles by promoting garments that allowed freedom of movement), and innovative use of fabrics (especially jersey, which was unconventional in high fashion at the time; she transformed this humble material into luxurious and comfortable garments.)

Chanel's focus on comfort, functionality, and timeless elegance resonated with women of the upper echelons of society. Her designs offered a sense of freedom and modernity that appealed to those seeking a break from the elaborate and impractical fashions of the early 20th century.
Photo by Lucia Carpio

Her strengths also lay in her keen business sense, establishing herself as a successful entrepreneur. She launched the iconic Chanel No. 5 perfume and expanded her brand into various product lines, contributing to her lasting legacy.

The Chanel quilted handbag design with chain strap, and signature double-C logo.
Photo by Lucia Carpio

She pioneered the art of branding.  The interlocking C's of the Chanel logo became synonymous with luxury and sophistication. Chanel's branding was influential in creating a distinctive identity for her fashion house.  The Chanel 2.55 handbag, introduced in 1955, became a classic with its quilted design, chain strap, and signature double-C logo.





Chanel popularized the concept of the Little Black Dress, a versatile and timeless garment that became a wardrobe staple for women.

The V&A acquired this notably austere black worsted suit and hat from 1969 during a Christie's auction of Chanel's personal collection in 1978, a purchase made seven years following her passing. Gabrielle's challenging childhood unfolded in a convent, where the nuns taught her to sew. This early influence may elucidate why, as a designer, her colour palette consistently leaned towards the beige, black, and white reminiscent of the nuns' habits.
Photo by Lucia Carpio

Her tweed suits were revolutionary.  These iconic suits featured boxy jackets with contrasting trim and slim skirts, providing a chic and modern alternative to traditional women's attire.  Look closely and you see the intricate details of hand-craftsmanship, the epitome of haute couture.

During the 1920s, Chanel's presence was widely recognized in Britain. She frequently graced the society pages of British newspapers and magazines, often seen in the company of notable figures such as the Duke of Westminster, Winston Churchill and his son Randolph.

While Chanel was a French designer, Chanel's close relationship with London and Great Britain is well documented. She opened a boutique in London in 1927, marking her first venture outside of France. The London store helped expand her brand's international presence.

Additionally, Chanel drew inspiration from British menswear, incorporating elements such as tweed fabrics and collarless jackets into her designs. Her connections with the British aristocracy, including the Duke of Westminster, also influenced her work.

Chanel had said, no outfit is complete without jewellery, and hers carry her signature for timeless elegance, innovation, and incorporation of distinctive design elements. 
Photo by Lucia Carpio

In summary, Gabrielle Chanel's fashion design concept emphasized timeless elegance, comfort, and functionality. Her strengths included business acumen and iconic branding, and her signature looks, such as the Little Black Dress and tweed suits, continue to influence fashion today. Despite being a French designer, her close relationship with London and association with Great Britain played a role in expanding her brand globally.  

Photos by Lucia Carpio at the "Gabrielle Chanel: Fashion Manifesto," closing on March 10th, 2024 at London's Victoria & Albert Museum.