Exhibition: Offbeat Sari Exhibition at Design Museum gives insight into its evolution and transformation in recent years

Long been a national costume for special occasions, the Indian Sari, often spelled as "saree," is a traditional garment formed by a long piece of cloth, typically ranging from 5 to 9 meters in length, that is unstitched and draped around the body in various ways to form a graceful ensemble.  

Conventionally its non-conforming fluid form allows the wearer to reflect their own personality and creativity as well as social status through the use of different fabrics and textures.  Historically and traditionally worn by both men and women, the Sari has deep cultural significance in India and has been an integral part of country's national clothing for centuries. 

Reflecting India's rich history as well as the diversity and complexity of Indian culture, the origins of Sari can be traced back to ancient India, with references in historical texts and sculptures dating as far back as 100 BC. 

To gain insight into how the sari has evolved and adapted, the Design Museum in Kensington London is running "The Offbeat Sari" Exhibition until September 17th 2023 taking visitors on a journey to explore how this Indian traditional garment has evolved through time and gradually transformed into a more elaborate and elegant garment.

The exhibition is segmented into three main parts: Transformation, Identity and Resistance, and Materials, explaining how contemporary designers and wearers have reimagined the Indian costume, playing with the fabric to create more contemporary styles.   

According to the Design Museum's description, in the past decade the sari has been re-energised by a new generation of designers who are experimenting with new drapes and innovative materials,  across India's burgeoning cities.  

In recent decades, through the film industry, Bollywood has played a significant role in promoting Indian culture, including the traditional sari, both within India and on the global stage, serving as a powerful platform for showcasing Indian traditions, fashion, and lifestyle.   As shown at the exhibition, in the two photos above, designer Pero drew inspiration from Bollywood heroine Sridevi in the 1989 film Chandini (meaning moonlight). Her white European lace sari features floral embroidery and sequins, worn with an accompanying silk blouse.

Many Bollywood films depict scenes of festivals and celebrations, where characters adorn themselves in traditional attire, including saris.  

On the red carpet, Bollywood celebrities attending national and international events often choose to wear saris, adding a touch of elegance and representing Indian culture on the global stage. 

The exhibition "explores the creative, often unexpected ways in which the sari is a site for design innovation and an empowering vessel for self-expression in India today."  

As an incredibly versatile garment as the sari can be wrapped, knotted, pleated, tucked or divided in two, highlighting or concealing the natural curves of the body, young women today who previously associated the sari with dressing up have transformed it into contemporary everyday fashion, teaming the sari with sneakers even, in place of sandals, as seen in Bollywood films.  Shruti Kasat designed embroidered trainers to be worn with saris.  Her "Saree Sneakers" came about when she found it difficult to wear heels while looking after her toddler.

The Saree Sneakers by Shruti Kasat.

In the 19th century, during the British Raj, the Nivi drape, along with the standard pairing of a blouse and petticoat, became commonly perceived as the only way to drape a sari.  It remains the most popular drape to this day.

However, the adaptability of the sari makes it astonishingly rich, and there remains a wealth of undiscovered stories.  More than 100 styles of drape are worn throughout India, using saris that typically range from 3 to 8 metres, while many more sari drapes probably remain undocumented.

The Offbeat Sari exhibition also addresses the global problem of wastage caused by fashion as it is one of the most polluting industries of the world.  It highlights how contemporary sari designers are responding to this pressing problem by reclaiming, restoring and reweaving used saris into new garments.  Echoing this approach is in the Design Museum shop where a selection of fashion accessories made with pre-loved saris.

Dangling fan-like earrings made from pre-loved saris on sale in the Design Museum shop.

The exhibition concludes with a look on new materials.  While the sari is simply a textile, within lies the intricate integration of weave, texture, colour and surface that collectively form a canvas for designers and artisans to express their creativity as they draw on India's craft histories to inform new techniques. 

 As the knowledge of textile-making is passed down through generations, from silks hand-woven in Kanchipuram to stainless-steel sculpting in New Delhi, emergent methods of producing textiles in India today are not only innovative but also sustainable. Natural materials such as rain-fed organic cotton and indigo dye are being revived and cultivated from seed to cloth.

All photos by Lucia Carpio.