Thursday, 16 January 2025

Wool News: the Campaign for Wool and Cape Wools present Sustainable, Traceable South African Merino Wool in Pitti Imagine Uomo, Florence

This week, the latest edition of the menswear trade show, Pitti Imagine Uomo in Florence, set the stage for sustainably certified wool through a special event with the Campaign for Wool and Cape Wools, which championed the beauty, softness, unique crimp and traceability of South African Merino Wool.

The event, hosted at The British Institute in Florence on 14 January, saw the launch of a new Menswear capsule collection, created by one of South Africa’s best-known design-duo mmusomaxwell, (Maxwell Boko, Mmuso Potsane).  

As former International Woolmark Prize Winners and recipients of the Karl Lagerfeld Award for Innovation, and in keeping with their design aesthetic inspired by African heritage and contemporary culture, the ethically-focused label created a series of garments crafted in woollen cloth supplied by Moon, worsted cloth by REDA and knitwear yarns from Gerber & Co (SA).

The presentation also showcased Merino wool fibres, yarns and garment pieces supplied by Moon, Knoll Yarns, Gerber & Co, Core Merino, Lukhanyo Mdingi and Viviers, all selected to demonstrate South African Merino’s versatility, durability, soft handle, colour and lustre, to retailers, designers, buyers, specifiers and brands in attendance. 

Each innovative garment and design presented celebrates heritage, craftsmanship and local knowledge, sourced from different regions of South Africa cementing South Africa’s rightful place on the global fashion stage.

South Africa is home to around 8,000 commercial wool farmers, and just over 45,000 individual communal farmers. These communal farmers do not own their own land, and they farm on land allocated to them to run their sheep. They are dependent on their source of income from wool, which plays a very important role in ensuring the livelihoods of these communities. 

mmusowaxwell said, “Sustainability has always been at the heart of our design process. We are incredibly proud that our home, South Africa, offers a reliable source of sustainably certified wool, which meets the Sustainable Cape Wools Standard. Our first menswear collection reflects our affinity for tailoring and incorporates our signature asymmetric illusion layering.” 

Peter Ackroyd, the new Chairman of Campaign for Wool, said, “The South African Merino wool industry consistently generates high quality, environmentally sound products for international markets. The country has a rich history of sheep and wool farming from established woolgrowers who understand the importance of animal welfare and environmental excellence. Pitti Imagine Uomo offers a perfect platform to showcase some of the leading brands and manufacturers working with these yarns and fabrics. The brands selected for this particular presentation include Woolmark licensees Moon, REDA and Knoll Yarns, each offering unique product and quality assurance that have fully embraced transparency in the supply chain.” 

Deon Saayman, Chief Executive Officer, Cape Wools added, “I believe this is an exciting opportunity for the South African Wool industry, and our recent partnership with Oritain ensures South African wool can be verified globally and at any point in the supply chain using Oritain’s unique auditing methodology combining forensic science and data to detect naturally occurring elements in a product or raw material. As proof of origin, the Oritain Verification of Origin and Provenance mark can be displayed on labels with a unique QR code providing a direct digital link to the guarantee. Our wool consumers worldwide deserve to know where the garment or product they have purchased comes from. We are now the world’s leading supplier of sustainably certified traceable wool.”

Images from Campaign for Wool and Cape Wools.




Sustainability Collaboration: British Fashion Council Adopts Copenhagen Fashion Week's Sustainability Requirements

Copenhagen Fashion Week's Sustainability Requirements has been leading the fashion industry since its inception in 2020, and its introduction of a minimum set of standards that all CPHFW show & presentation schedule brands have had to conform to was adopted in January 2023.

Now the British Fashion Council and Copenhagen Fashion Week announce a new collaboration, joining forces to align their efforts to accelerate the industry's sustainability actions across the Nordic and British fashion markets. 

As part of the collaboration, the BFC will roll out the Sustainability Requirements framework developed by CPHFW. This will kick off with the BFC NEWGEN initiative in 2025, where the Minimum Standards will be embedded into the existing mandatory criteria for admission. Following an onboarding and piloting period, the full implementation will come into effect fully by January 2026.

BFC NEWGEN is the world leading designer programme which supports the best emerging fashion design talent and represents key voices in the British fashion industry. Applications are now open for highly creative designer fashion businesses that has been actively trading for less than 3 years.

Caroline Rush, Chief Executive, British Fashion Council said: "We are thrilled to align with the Copenhagen Fashion Week Sustainability Requirements across BFC NEWGEN, this builds on our existing Minimum Standards and reaffirms our commitment to driving positive change across the global fashion industry. This partnership is a significant step in ensuring that sustainability becomes integral to the future of fashion. Together, we are creating a framework that empowers emerging designer fashion businesses to lead the way and contribute tangibly to a more sustainable and responsible industry."

Cecilie Thorsmark, CEO of Copenhagen Fashion Week said:  "We are delighted to join forces with the British Fashion Council to further expand the reach of our Sustainability Requirements. This partnership not only fosters much-needed industry alignment but also underscores the unique potential of fashion weeks and councils to drive positive change within the industry. With the British Fashion Council, as an influential player in the global fashion landscape, we see a lot of potential to further amplify the impact of our collective commitment to sustainability."

This partnership is a key part of the BFC's ongoing work through its Institute of Positive Fashion (IPF). The IPF was launched as a think tank to address the fashion industry's environmental impact and aims to guide the industry toward sustainable practices, promoting climate action while serving as a platform for research, collaboration and education to accelerate positive change. 2025 marks five years of the IPF and this collaboration with CPHFW underscores the BFC's continued commitment to drive a more sustainable future. 

About the Sustainability Requirements 

The Sustainability Requirements were introduced by Copenhagen Fashion Week in close collaboration with their Knowledge Partners In Futurum and Dansk Fashion & Textile in January 2020. Since then, they have been updated during 2024 to reflect industry developments as well as changes in the EU policy landscape. The framework represents an essential part of CPHFW's sustainability strategy to drive comprehensive change in the fashion industry and was reviewed by their Advisory Board and an international panel of experts.

Since its launch, the Norwegian Fashion Hub, Oslo Runway and Berlin Fashion Week executed by Fashion Council Germany have embarked on the implementation of the Sustainability Requirements framework.

Meanwhile Copenhagen Fashion Week recently announced it had won the PETA Fashion Awards 2024, having gone fur-free. CFW has also removed wild-animal skins and feathers from the runways, reflecting its commitment to more ethical practices.⁠⁠


Wednesday, 15 January 2025

London Antiques Event: The Decorative Fair in Battersea Park London celebrates 40th anniversary 21-26 January 2025

The Winter Decorative Fair, the first major antiques and interiors event of the year, and London’s largest, longest-running design and arts fair now in its 40th year, when it opens doors on January 21 2025 at Evolution London in Battersea Park. 

Organisers say visitors will be greeted by 130 exhibitors on the ground floor who will be offering "an exciting array of fine and formal antiques and 20th century design alongside decorative and unusual pieces dating from the 1700s to the 1970s", adding that art and sculpture of all periods, collectable ceramics and glassware, silver, architectural and garden antiques, textiles, curios and jewellery can be found in abundance. 

The Decorative Fair Winter, running until January 26th 2025, will also welcome The London Antique Rug & Textile Art Fair, in its annual staging, with 15 specialist textile and carpet dealers showing upstairs on the mezzanine level.

The Foyer Display is The Architect’s Study, inspired by the drawings of classical architect George Saumarez Smith, whose work features in the Fair’s 2025 marketing imagery.  As shown in the photo above, the drawing was taken from the architect's Sketchbooks:  Collected Measured Drawings and Architectural Sketches. The presentation will inspire visitors with a showcase of furniture, art and objects suitable for a study, reading or office area.  All items come from dealers at the Fair and are for sale.

The Winter fair will feature a cross-section of the best antiques and period design on the market today, including furniture, lighting and mirrors as well as rugs and textiles, garden decoration, glassware, silver, ceramics, fine jewellery, folk and tribal art, vintage watches and couture. 

Seasonal favourites at the fair will also include fireplace accessories such as decorative fireguards, irons and grates; club fenders and log baskets/containers; mirrors and lighting are particularly in demand in January; cosy upholstered seating such as Howard chairs and Victorian sofas; useful occasional tables; glassware.

Friday, 10 January 2025

London retail: Louis Vuitton x Murakami Pop-Up opens in London blending retail with experience

Louis Vuitton is commemorating the 20th anniversary of its iconic collaboration with Japanese artist Takashi Murakami by reintroducing their legendary collection. This milestone is marked by the opening of a two-story pop-up store in London’s affluent Soho, running from January 9 to February 9, 2025.

Nestled in the heart of Soho, the Louis Vuitton x Murakami pop-up seamlessly combines kaleidoscopic artistry with luxury, celebrating the enduring impact of one of fashion’s most iconic partnerships.

The pop-up showcases a whimsical design inspired by Tokyo’s modular hotels, featuring black and pink colour-blocked floors that set a striking stage for more than 200 reimagined pieces. Seamlessly blending retail with experience, the store offers an archival display, a vending machine dispensing collectible gifts, a café, and a ‘care and repair’ station for vintage items.

First launched under the creative direction of designer Marc Jacobs, the collection merges Murakami’s vibrant colours and Superflat aesthetic with Louis Vuitton’s classic designs. Highlights include Monogram Multicolore rolling trunks and the Superflat Panda featured on trainers and keyrings, exemplifying the groundbreaking fusion of art and fashion.

Visitors can delve into an archival module displaying standout pieces from the original collections, such as the Eye Love Monogram and the 2003 Monogram Multicolore. Other treasures like the Monogram Dalmatien, Monogram Cerise, and Monogram Superflat are presented in flower-inspired casings as part of a bespoke exhibition.

Every purchase unlocks access to vending machines offering exclusive Murakami-designed prizes, including trading cards, stickers, and the Takashi Murakami Flower Go Walk portable game. Guests can also enjoy a film lounge outfitted with Murakami flower cushions while watching digitally enhanced Superflat animations.

The Louis Vuitton x Murakami Café adds a delectable dimension to the experience, serving baked goods and drinks in limited-edition cups and napkins adorned with Murakami’s designs. As the only café of its kind in Europe, it elevates the immersive celebration of this landmark collaboration.

Louis Vuitton x Murakami Pop-up location: 39 Brewer Street, London, W1F 9UD United Kingdom

Edited by Lucia Carpio.  Photo credit:  Louis Vuitton

Paris Textiles Fair: Première Vision Paris in February will centre on showcasing Know-How, Unique craftsmanship and Innovations

From February 11 to 13, 2025, Première Vision Paris will return to the Paris Nord Villepinte Exhibition Centre, gathering key players from the creative and sustainable fashion industry. From diffusion to luxury, this event offers trade visitors a unique chance to connect with experts from across the globe and explore the Spring-Summer 2026 collections.

This is the first of two scheduled Première Vision Paris events in 2025, with a spotlight on know-how - a term that encompasses practical knowledge, expertise, craftsmanship, and innovation, whether rooted in contemporary techniques or ancestral traditions. The event will showcase the latest advancements in textiles, leather, accessories, and design.

Exhibitors will include spinners, weavers, tanners, designers, accessory manufacturers, and garment makers from around 40 countries, including Italy, France, Spain, Portugal, Japan, the United Kingdom, Belgium, South Korea, Turkey, and China. Over 1,060 exhibitors will present their specialties and innovations, offering a comprehensive view of the industry's evolving landscape.

According to organisers, the fashion industry is at a pivotal moment, grappling with a "crisis of value and values." Confronted by economic, ecological, energy-related, and existential challenges, the sector faces a historic turning point. In this context, know-how serves as a vital touchstone, offering solutions for contemporary challenges. Preserved and reimagined by dedicated artisans, artists, industrialists, and a resilient new generation, know-how provides a framework for rethinking and resetting the fashion system.

"Committed and innovative, the key players in our industry are reintroducing circularity and regeneration, favouring alternative processes, smaller scales, sustainability, and long-term thinking, " says Florence Rousson, President of the Première Vision Management Board.  

"By expressing themselves through new creative approaches, valuing unprecedented lifestyles, and engaging with their time through social media, these actors are reinventing a sector in search of meaning. Bearers of culture, energy, and inspiration, they embody both historical and forward-looking richness, economic and intangible value, innovation and preservation. 

"This is why we have decided to place their know-how at the heart of the February 2025 edition and future February editions. From the fashion forums to the conference stages, craftsmanship will be celebrated from all angles, with contributions from experts, institutions, exhibitors, federations, schools, artists, and artisans. Present and future-oriented for all sectors, from diffusion to luxury, know-how stands as a major source of inspiration for rethinking the fashion of tomorrow,” says Rousson.

To showcase know-how at the fair, there will be an Inspiration Forum (Hall 5)*, where stories of interwoven craftsmanship related to the SS26 season will be unveiled, and a selection of leathers from French tanneries, dyed in the colours of the Première Vision range, will be showcased.

On the programme will also be 16 conferences and various "pitches" from exhibitors in the Tech Area, a keynote speech by Paul Mouginot, Scientific Advisor for Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode (FHCM) and guided tours on fashion technology.  The Maison d’Exceptions will be set up.  This is a dedicated space for showing artisanal craftsmanship, topped off with an embroidery demonstration.

The Origin of a Textile Lexicon will be launched, with the first chapter set to be published in early February, focusing on Fibres (synthetic, artificial, animal, etc.). This format catalogs and deciphers textile materials, identifying the characteristics of each fibre, from the most traditional to the most innovative.

New textile trends will be presented by the fair's fashion team, which highlights that the SPRING-SUMMER 26 SEASON offers a reflection on our lifestyles, habits and the impact of the fashion industry, under three themes: RE-FRESH, RE-SET and RE-STORE.

"This season, emerging trends highlight craftsmanship, versatility, innovation, and sustainability. There is a strong enthusiasm for lightweight, airy materials inspired by outdoor sports. Comfort is being redefined with cozy, flexible textiles, ranging from sportswear to streetwear. Sustainability takes center stage, with recycled and bio-based composite materials." says Desolina Suter, Fashion Director, Première Vision.

*The three themes can be explored at the Inspiration Forum:

RE-FRESH: The season delves into airy structures and textile craftsmanship, combining industrial techniques with natural solutions while addressing current climate challenges.

RE-SET: The season highlights satins adorned with virtuoso embellishments, showcasing the excellence of both industrial and artisanal know-how.

RE-STORE: The season focuses on indigo and practices of recycling and upcycling, promoting responsible industrial craftsmanship for sustainable fashion.

Mathilde Hiron, a finalist in the Accessories competition of the 38th Hyères International Festival of Fashion, Photography, and Accessories, will unveil her creations made in collaboration with French tanners for the occasion.

The Sourcing Solutions Forum (Hall 6) will also present the new directions for the Spring-Summer 26 season.

While there will be audio-guides available in French, English, Italian, Korean, Japanese, and Chinese, other tools to help buyers make decisions for their collection will include a new Accessories Index, designed to simplify accessory sourcing, as well as the PV Color Book presenting Première Vision’s own colour range.

To learn more about the Fashion Seminars, and the new "Fashion Resources" section, go to the PV website.

Thursday, 9 January 2025

Textile Fair: Texworld Apparel Sourcing Paris returns to former venue for February 10 - 12 2025

Texworld Apparel Sourcing Paris is set to make its return to the Paris-Le-Bourget exhibition centre from February 10 to 12 2025, showcasing its latest edition centered on the Spring-Summer 2026 season. 

Organized by Messe Frankfurt France, the event promises exciting innovations, including enhanced product offerings and redesigned visitor itineraries, for the international textile industry.

Photo credit: Messe Frankfurt France

Over 1,200 weavers and garment makers are gathered in Halls 2, 3, and 4 of the exhibition centre for this February 2025 edition. This return to a reimagined venue signals a fresh chapter in the visitor experience. According to the organizers, this edition will showcase the rich diversity of global sourcing, offering creative collections at competitive prices tailored to the fashion industry.

To enhance the sourcing experience, the organizers are leveraging their return to the Paris-Le Bourget Exhibition Centre to revamp and restructure the visitor areas. This includes reconfiguring the layout of sectors and services to foster new synergies between raw materials and finished products.

Hall 4 will feature areas dedicated to women’s wear, including sections such as All About Her, Embroidery & Lace, and Silky Aspect, with a focus on knitwear, silk, and lace. Hall 3 will spotlight apparel for the outdoors, with an emphasis on sportswear and casualwear.

Hall 2 will serve as a hub for relaxation, dining, and networking. It will also offer spaces for inspiration, including trend forums, product showcases, services, and the Agora—a venue for conferences and roundtable discussions.

This season, Texworld Apparel Sourcing Paris places a strong emphasis on innovations, sustainability, and creative initiatives. A highlight is the new “Initiatives” zone at the entrance of Hall 4, showcasing sustainable solutions like Bao Lan Textile’s pineapple leaf fiber fabrics, developed with Ecofa Vietnam, which boast antibacterial properties and UPF 50+ UV protection. This area will also feature the China Textile Information Centre’s trends forum and the Econogy Hub, focusing on sustainability initiatives in the textile sector.

The event also shines a spotlight on international exhibitors. Key participants include China, Turkey, India, Korea, and Taiwan, alongside alternative sourcing regions such as Malaysia, Singapore, the United Kingdom, and Egypt. Notable contributors include Dutch companies like Quality Textile, Nooteboom, and Verhees Textiles in the cotton sector and Korean knitwear specialists such as O.N.K. and W-Tex. The Denim sector sees growth this year, with around 30 exhibitors, including major players like Winwin Textile from China and NZ Denim from Bangladesh.

Apparel Sourcing expands its global reach, with a special focus on African producers, including companies from Ethiopia, Rwanda, and the Arise Integrated Industrial Platform presenting Togo, Benin, and Gabon. Near Sourcing is also highlighted through Foursource, which represents exhibitors from Eastern Europe, Portugal, and Morocco. Over 500 exhibitors will present finished products, fashion accessories, and clothing, with national pavilions hosted by countries like China, India, Pakistan, and Bangladesh, as well as a return of five Ukrainian companies supported by their textile association.

To enhance the visitor experience, Messe Frankfurt France has introduced three exhibitor tailored initiatives. The Econogy Finder trail identifies over 80 sustainable textile suppliers, while the Small Quantity itinerary highlights 200 exhibitors specializing in limited runs ideal for capsule collections. Lastly, the Hand Made itinerary showcases 130 exhibitors offering authentic, handmade products, all easily searchable via the fair’s online directory and app.

Edited by Lucia Carpio.  Photos courtesy of Messe Frankfurt France.

Wednesday, 8 January 2025

London Textiles Fair: TLTF a key destination for fashion designers, buyers, and brands

The London Textile Fair (TLTF), boasting 400 British and international exhibitors, is the UK's premier platform for fashion fabrics, apparel accessories, print studios, vintage archives, and garment manufacturers

Scheduled to take place on January 14 and 15 2025 at the Business Design Centre in Islington, central London, TLTF is a must-attend event for industry professionals, offering unparalleled opportunities for networking and exploring the latest trends.

One of the standout features is The Print Design Hall, a vibrant hub of creativity where international design studios present their newest surface pattern and print collections. This space is an essential destination for fashion designers, buyers, and brands seeking distinctive and innovative designs, from bold florals and abstract motifs to cutting-edge digital artwork.