Charity Post: SATCoL and Retail Partners Unite to Reduce Waste, Support Sustainability, and Fund Vital Charity Work

The Salvation Army’s trading arm, Salvation Army Trading Company Ltd (SATCoL), is a leader in driving positive social and environmental impact. With a longstanding commitment to reuse and recycling, SATCoL operates a nationwide network of charity shops, donation centers, and clothing banks, working alongside community groups, businesses, local authorities, schools, and individuals—all united by a shared mission to help others and protect the planet.

Partnering with brands and retailers, SATCoL accepts excess, returned, and end-of-line stock of clothing and home goods, reselling them in its charity shops across the UK. This collaboration offers brands an opportunity to reduce storage costs, free up warehouse space for new stock, and divert more products away from disposal.

As a call to action, SATCoL produced a photoshoot with leading fashion industry photographer Camille Sanson and Fashion Stylist Karl Willett.  
Photo: SATCoL

By extending the life cycle of these items, SATCoL and its partners contribute to reducing waste and greenhouse gas emissions while raising vital funds for charity. In addition, SATCoL’s investment in modern processing centers and innovative textile recycling technology enables large-scale reuse and recycling solutions never seen before in the UK. The organization also supports businesses in amplifying their sustainability efforts by promoting their partnerships and shared commitment to creating lasting change.

To highlight the impact of corporate donations, SATCoL recently collaborated on a photoshoot with renowned fashion photographer Camille Sanson and stylist Karl Willett, known for his work with celebrities at the Grammy Awards, Met Gala, and Vanity Fair.

Reflecting on the project, Karl Willett shared:  "It was a pleasure to be part of the Corporate Donations shoot—a scheme making a tangible impact by diverting everyday items from landfill and championing sustainability."

The campaign showcases the style and potential of second-hand fashion, electronics, and home goods—categories SATCoL is eager to receive. The organization has gained industry-wide recognition for its work in helping brands achieve their sustainability goals and promoting the benefits of second-hand shopping.

Shaunacy Burne, Corporate Partnerships Manager at SATCoL, emphasized the importance of these collaborations: "We are working with businesses to repurpose obsolete, end-of-line, and faulty stock, ensuring these products are reused rather than discarded. Not only do we help brands meet their CSR objectives through sustainable solutions, but the donations we receive are sold in our retail outlets to raise essential funds for our parent charity. We’re actively seeking new partnership opportunities—together, we can significantly reduce waste and keep more items out of landfill. Get in touch; we’d love to hear from you."

Points of View: Fashion at a Crossroads: Tariffs, Sustainability, and Innovation Are Reshaping the Industry

As global trade policies shift, the fashion and beauty industries find themselves navigating an increasingly complex landscape. With rising tariffs, evolving legislation, and shifting consumer demands, brands must rethink their strategies to remain competitive.

Kiko Gaspar, an strategy expert in communications with international experience in fashion, lifestyle, and design, offers insight into these transformations and their impact on global brands.

The Trifecta of Challenges Facing Fashion and Beauty

The fashion and beauty industries are contending with a trio of pressing challenges. First, increasing tariffs on Chinese imports imposed by the U.S. and EU are raising costs for companies that rely on overseas manufacturing. Brands which dominate fast fashion, are particularly affected. As production costs rise, the price of goods is expected to follow, pushing consumers toward more affordable alternatives.

Second, the growing popularity of secondhand fashion is reshaping consumer behavior. Younger, environmentally conscious shoppers are prioritizing sustainability, leading to a boom in resale platforms. Legislative measures, such as the Americas Act, are further fueling this trend by offering incentives for recycling and reuse, aligning with the global push toward sustainability.

“The evolving landscape of tariffs and legislation is transforming the fashion industry,” says Kiko Gaspar. “Fast fashion is under increasing pressure, while secondhand fashion is emerging as a viable alternative. This is a pivotal moment for brands to embrace resale and rethink their approach.”

Tariffs and Sustainability: A New Market Dynamic

The impact of rising tariffs on fast fashion is undeniable. Stricter regulations on Chinese imports are forcing fast fashion retailers to reassess their pricing models or absorb narrower profit margins. Higher costs for budget-friendly fashion could significantly affect millions of consumers who rely on these products.

“With tariffs creating financial pressure, we’ll likely see a shift in consumer behavior,” Gaspar notes. “Brands must innovate and explore new strategies to stay relevant in an increasingly price-sensitive market. Those heavily reliant on Chinese manufacturing face both a challenge and an opportunity to diversify their supply chains.”

Governments are also actively supporting sustainability initiatives. The proposed Americas Act introduces tax incentives for businesses in the secondhand fashion sector, encouraging long-term growth for resale platforms and eco-conscious brands.

At the same time, fashion companies are under greater scrutiny due to stricter environmental regulations. In March 2025, the EU implemented supply chain transparency requirements, mandating that brands disclose their entire production process, from raw materials to finished goods. While this initiative enhances consumer trust, it also imposes additional financial strain on companies already contending with higher costs.

The Rise of Secondhand Fashion and AI-Driven Resale

As fast fashion grapples with these obstacles, the resale market is poised to flourish. Platforms like ThredUp, Poshmark, and Vestiaire Collective are capitalizing on the rising demand for affordable, sustainable fashion.

“The growth of secondhand fashion isn’t just a passing trend—it’s the future,” Gaspar asserts. “Consumers are increasingly aware of their environmental impact, and brands must adapt. As tariffs disrupt fast fashion, resale platforms are uniquely positioned to meet the needs of modern shoppers while promoting sustainability.”

Additionally, AI-driven resale platforms are transforming the shopping experience. Advanced technologies improve product selection, quality control, and personalization, enhancing customer satisfaction and attracting new buyers. AI-powered trend forecasting tools also help brands anticipate demand shifts, reducing unsold inventory and waste.

The Future: Innovation and Circular Design

Fashion and beauty brands are also under mounting pressure to integrate circular design principles. Companies are investing in recyclable materials, take-back programs, and other sustainable initiatives to encourage responsible consumption.

As digital tools become essential for streamlining operations and adapting to new market dynamics, the future of fashion lies at the intersection of sustainability and innovation.

With extensive experience working with global icons like Vivienne Westwood and supporting emerging Ukrainian creatives on the world stage, Kiko Gaspar understands the industry’s evolving landscape firsthand. 

“These changes mark a new era for fashion—one that demands agility, consciousness, and forward-thinking strategies,” Gaspar concludes. “Now is the time for brands to pivot, innovate, and embrace the opportunities created by today’s challenges.”

As global trade policies continue to evolve, the fashion and beauty industries must remain adaptable. By embracing sustainability, transparency, and innovation, companies have the chance to build a profitable future that is socially and environmentally responsible.

Paris Fashion Week: MOSSI unveils AW 25/26 collection: A Bold Fusion of Couture Craftsmanship, Sculptural Silhouettes, and Poetic Expression

French fashion brand MOSSI unveils its Autumn/Winter 2025-2026 collection, a striking exploration where ready-to-wear embraces couture craftsmanship.

Through draping techniques, architectural pleats, and bold layering, each piece becomes a dialogue between structure and fluidity. MOSSI’s DNA is expressed through sculptural silhouettes, marked by asymmetry and deconstruction—key signatures of the house. 

This season, the signature pleats take on new forms as belts, while iconic elements from the MOSSI wardrobe subtly appear throughout the runway.

Knitwear takes centre stage, offering infinite freedom of movement and drape, lending itself to a true exercise in style. Meanwhile, corduroy is reimagined through a subtle play on textures, balancing sensuality and precision.

Colour becomes a true field of exploration. Deep shades of blue and brown, worked on fabrics of varying thickness, blend and layer seamlessly. Some appear in gradient effects, evoking the shifting shadows of twilight, enhancing the depth and richness of the collection.

Parasols emerge as one of the major inspirations this season. Both protective and poetic, they influence volumes and transform the silhouette into a space for personal expression.

Finally, MOSSI’s “emotional print”, originally created with bold brushstrokes, has been reworked, enlarged, and refined to become another signature of the house, adding an expressive dimension to each piece.

MOSSI continues to dress with singularity, infusing each creation with an elegance that is both contemporary and timeless. More than just a collection, FW25 is an invitation to experience fashion and fully embrace it every day.

As a Paris-based luxury ready-to-wear brand founded by designer Mossi Traoré, Mossi is renowned for its ethical and socially engaged approach, the brand merges French couture traditions with global influences from countries such as India, Japan, and Mali. Committed to inclusivity, MOSSI offers accessible elegance while championing social mobility through fashion.

Beyond crafting exquisite clothing, MOSSI empowers underprivileged youth through its couture training programmes, with Les Ateliers Alix—an official partner of Chanel—playing a pivotal role in this mission. The brand has garnered prestigious accolades, including the 2020 Pierre Bergé Prize, and has collaborated with esteemed institutions such as La Redoute, Lalique, and Adidas.

Among its latest endeavours, MOSSI has launched the Le Vestiaire collection, now available at the Printemps Haussmann department store in Paris—a line that embodies the house’s signature elegance and couture craftsmanship.

Designer Mossi Traoré

Additionally, MOSSI’s work will be showcased in the exhibition Infiniment Bleu at Château Borély in Marseille from 7 March 2025 to 15 February 2026. This immersive journey explores the depth of blue through fashion and craftsmanship.

Designer Mossi Traoré has also created an exclusive collection for CASETiFY, bringing fashion-forward designs to phone cases and tech accessories. Launching in mid-March, this collaboration seamlessly blends style and innovation.

As Les Ateliers Alix marks its 10th anniversary this year—named in honour of Madame Alix Grès, a key inspiration for Mossi Traoré—the school continues its mission of preserving couture craftsmanship. Located in Villiers-sur-Marne, it offers a three-year training programme in haute couture techniques, showcasing the art of couture in the Parisian suburbs.

Runway visuals: Collective Parade

Millinery News: Katherine Elizabeth presents ladies' hats for Spring and Summer 2025

As spring ushers in warmer days, our focus naturally shifts to outdoor celebrations and stylish occasions.

The Bridgerton Garden headpiece made from Dupion silk, and adorned with leaves,
a pink peony and Japanese blossom. 

Perfectly timed, British millinery designer Katherine Elizabeth has unveiled her latest Spring/Summer Collection, drawing inspiration from both architecture and the beauty of nature.

Clarence Hat made from white sinamay straw, black and gold polybraid with a white arrow quill, gold tipped.

Elis Hat made from Sinamay straw, this headpiece features a lovely light pink peony.

Staying true to her signature style, Katherine offers a hat for every wearer and event. From classic designs adorned with blooming florals to sleek, understated elegance and striking sculptural pieces that turn heads for all the right reasons.

This collection is perfect for weddings, race days, summer soirées, and garden parties, says the designer.

Each hat is a unique, handcrafted creation, meticulously designed by Katherine and her talented team. Every piece can be customized to reflect individual style and preferences, ensuring a personal touch.

Goodwood Hat - a headpiece is made from black and red
latticed paradisal straw,
adorned with black Biot pom-poms.

Using and selecting the finest fabrics and trimmings are selected, the design team delivers quality with refined finish.

A graduate of the Surrey Institute of Art and Design, Katherine honed her craft under the renowned Stephen Jones, contributing to Dior’s runway collections and John Galliano’s Paris boutique. She later collaborated with Catherine Delaney in theatre and film before establishing her own millinery house in Clerkenwell, later moving to the iconic Oxo Tower.

Her work has been showcased at Fortnum & Mason during London Craft Week and Coutts Bank for London Fashion Week. She is also a member of the prestigious Walpole British Luxury group and has guest presented for the BBC’s Royal Ascot Ladies Day.

Rosa Halo Crown headband made from fucshia silk fabric and embellished with Swarovski crystals, and a hand-made bow to adorn the back of the piece.

Bucklebury Hat Made from fuchsia sinamay, and edged in rose gold,
finished off with an array of beautiful peonies and freesias.

“My designs are deeply influenced by sculptural art, architecture, and nature. Every hat I create is like a conceptual sculpture—no two are ever the same. A hat shouldn’t be worn out of obligation; it should empower and inspire confidence. My goal is to craft pieces that enhance both the wearer’s features and outfit, transforming each hat into a true statement piece, " said Katherine.

Beatrice hat made in summer fuschia,
straw sinamay and adorned with garden flowers.

"Whether it’s Royal Ascot, Henley Royal Regatta, the Irish Races, the Epsom Derby, weddings, garden parties, or simply a desire for a stunning headpiece—Katherine Elizabeth Millinery is home to exceptional, handcrafted millinery.”

All photos courtesy of Katherine Elizabeth Millinery

Sustainable Textile News: Alliance for European Flax-Linen & Hemp Accelerates Sustainable Transformation with Certification Upgrades, Digital Traceability, and Industry Innovation

Flax-linen and hemp are two premium natural fibers recognized for their sustainability, durability, and versatility. They play a significant role in eco-friendly fashion, sustainable living products, and innovative industries.

A presentation on SS26 materials during Première Vision Paris February 2025

With 60% of flax-linen used in fashion and 30% in home, interior, and lifestyle products, the Alliance for European Flax-Linen & Hemp—the leading agro-industrial organization in the sector—has declared 2025 as the year to accelerate its sustainable transformation.

During the recent Milano Unica (February 4–6, 2025) and Première Vision Paris (February 11–13, 2025) textile trade fairs, the Alliance outlined its strategic action plan for the Fashion and Home markets. This plan includes the evolution of Flax-Linen certifications, the launch of a digital Flax-Linen Traceability Platform, the publication of impact datasets alongside a new environmental footprint calculation tool, scientific validation of Flax-Linen's functional properties, and the introduction of a Flax-Linen & Hemp sourcing platform.

These five initiatives will be implemented with the support of a fully European agro-industrial value chain.

The Alliance said it remains dedicated to innovation, creation, and sustainable development, promoting transparency through two key origin-traceability certifications—Masters of Linen™ and European Flax™. These certifications reinforce European expertise and enhance industry credibility.

Over the coming year, the Alliance's holistic strategy will comprehensively address socio-environmental challenges and regulatory requirements, aiming to position European Flax-Linen and Hemp as the world’s preferred sustainable fibers.

Flax-Linen Certifications: Evolution and Reinforcement

The Alliance is updating its Flax-Linen certifications with a new identity, revised standards, and specific deployments:

Masters of Linen™: While retaining its name, this certification will undergo a transformation with a new logo, tagline, and a broader scope that includes both company and product standards. It will be open-source and audited by independent third-party certification bodies. Applications have increased by 36% over the past five years.

Masters of Flax Fibre™ (formerly European Flax™): Reflecting a 755% growth in demand over the last five years, this certification has been renamed to align with an updated agricultural standard. It features a new logo, tagline, and promise.

Digital Traceability and Blockchain Innovation

After three years of collaboration with industry stakeholders, the Alliance has developed the Flax-Linen Traceability Platform in partnership with TextileGenesis - Lectra. This digital tool capitalizes on certified fibers, utilizing a blockchain-based, tokenized system (Fibercoins™) to verify authenticity throughout the supply chain. The platform maps every production stage, ensuring full transparency.

By May 2025, retail brands will gain access to this platform, allowing them to register their orders for certified European Flax-Linen. The initial rollout will begin with French, Belgian, and Dutch scutchers, who collectively produce 75% of the world’s flax fiber.

Impact Data and Environmental Footprint Assessment

The impact datasets for the Masters of Flax Fibre™ certification are now available in key reference databases such as the Higg Index, the European PEF database (EF 3.1), and ecoinvent. Additional datasets for flax transformation (from fiber to yarn) are being developed and will be published in the European PEF format within the year.

With pilot companies and its partner Glimpact, the Alliance is creating a dedicated tool to:

Calculate product footprints using the European PEF methodology.

Provide key data to downstream customers.

Identify areas for improvement and track progress towards sustainability goals.

These efforts aim to enhance transparency and sustainability across the entire value chain.

Scientific Validation of Flax-Linen’s Environmental Impact

An expert international committee is conducting scientific research to validate the functional and environmental properties of Masters of Flax Fibre™-certified fibres. Notably, the HYDRA Marine Sciences laboratory is examining the biodegradability of certified European Flax fibers in marine environments. The findings, set for release in Q1 2025, will address both positive and negative claims while contributing to global research on microfibers and microplastics in marine ecosystems.

The Return of the Linen & Hemp Dream Lab

The "Linen & Hemp Dream Lab" is relaunching its digital platform, offering access to a diverse range of European Flax-Linen and Hemp-based innovative materials, textiles, and technical solutions. This resource is available to designers, creative teams, stylists, manufacturers, and buyers worldwide, supporting applications across Fashion, Home, and Technical & Composite textile sectors.

With these transformative initiatives, the Alliance for European Flax-Linen & Hemp is reinforcing its leadership in sustainable fibre innovation, setting new industry standards, and fostering greater transparency across the global textile industry.

Textile Fair Report: Texworld Apparel Sourcing Paris Sees Surge in Global Attendance, Highlights African Sourcing and Industry Innovation

The 56th edition of the Texworld Apparel Sourcing Paris trade fair, held from February 10 - 12, 2025, welcomed over 8,500 international visitors—an increase of 10% compared to the February 2024 edition. Attendees explored the latest collections and forged business connections with 1,250 exhibitors from 32 countries during the three-day event at the Paris-Le Bourget Exhibition Centre.

Billed as Europe’s largest marketplace for fashion textiles and apparel, the fair reaffirmed its status as a premier global sourcing destination for mid-range fashion buyers and suppliers. Organizers at Messe Frankfurt Paris emphasised its role as an essential hub for industry professionals seeking high-quality materials and partnerships.

The event has firmly positioned itself as a key meeting point for designers, buyers, and suppliers of fabrics and finished products. It also highlights Europe’s continued significance in the global fashion industry, with France, the UK, Italy, Spain, and Germany ranking as the top five visiting countries.

After several years of market adjustments, international participation saw a resurgence, with more global buyers returning to Paris. While French attendance remained steady, the event demonstrated Paris’s resilience in an increasingly unpredictable fashion landscape.

“The global market is undergoing a major transformation,” noted Julien Schmoll, Marketing and Communications Director at Messe Frankfurt France. “Beyond geopolitical and commercial challenges, we’re witnessing a shift from entry-level segments to a more qualitative offering, which now dominates global clothing consumption. We’ve restructured our trade fairs to cater to mid-range markets, curating a diverse, high-quality, and competitively priced selection in a setting designed to foster business connections.”

This year, a spotlight was cast on African sourcing, which is becoming an increasingly attractive option for buyers. Nine Ethiopian companies participated in the event, securing promising commitments from European brands. Maryse Mbonyumutwa, founder of the Rwandan group Pink Mango—the first African manufacturing platform for sustainable and ethical brands—reported positive engagements:

“We’ve had promising discussions with representatives from several European brands that may soon establish local partnerships with us,” she said.

On the buyers’ side, the fair facilitated dynamic exchanges. Bangladeshi manufacturer NZ Denim met nearly all its European clients, including Celio, Okaïdi, Kiabi, and Jules at the fair. “The show allows us to engage with design teams about materials for future collections,” said Najam Us Saqib, R&D Manager at NZ Denim. “Buyers also use their time in Paris to stay informed on innovations like Ackala Coton, a naturally coloured cotton we introduced this year.” This eco-friendly material was featured in the Econogy Tour, which highlighted exhibitors adhering to ecological and social sustainability standards.

Texworld Apparel Sourcing Paris attracted a diverse range of visitors, from mainstream brands to haute couture houses. 

A materials manager from a major French general clothing brand shared: “We visit the fair to meet our Indian, Turkish, and Chinese suppliers, monitor trends for future collections, and fulfill designers’ sample requests.”

Haute couture brands adopted a similar approach. Livia Stoianova and Yassen Samouilov, founders of On Aura Tout Vu, attended the fair to connect with Chinese and Indian suppliers. “We were looking for materials and suppliers for a show production company we support and advise,” they explained. “We started with recommendations from Louis Gérin and Grégory Lamaud, Texworld Apparel Sourcing Paris’s artistic directors and the minds behind Néocène, the spring-summer 2026 trend book. For a first visit, we discovered some truly creative and inspiring materials.”

The next edition of Texworld Apparel Sourcing Paris, will take place September 15-17, 2025, and will include the key sectors Avantex and Leatherworld, held at the Paris-Le-Bourget exhibition centre with  a similar layout to the February edition.

All photos: Messe Frankfurt Paris/Texworld

Fashion Collaboration: Hancock of Scotland x Harti Art: "Wearable Art at Its Most Dashing"

Hancock of Scotland has partnered with contemporary pop artist Harti to introduce a unique collection of luxury outerwear infused with bold artistic expression. Debuting earlier this year at Pitti Uomo menswear fashion event in Florence, this exclusive collection features meticulously handcrafted raincoats that seamlessly merge traditional tailoring with Harti’s vibrant, graphic artwork—transforming classic rainwear into wearable masterpieces.

The Hancock x Harti collection bridges two centuries of craftsmanship with a contemporary artistic vision, redefining the possibilities of outerwear. Rooted in a shared dedication to excellence and creativity, these limited-edition coats—only 100 of each style, the Trench Coat and Parka—are a true testament to meticulous artistry. Each piece comes with a certificate signed by Harti, underscoring its exclusivity.

 Harti says: “Fashion has always been a medium for self expression, but this collaboration takes it a step further. Each coat is a piece of art that invites conversation. It’s not about  blending in - it’s about standing out and making your voice heard.” 

Designed to be unisex, the coats are available in sizes Small to XXXL and are made to order, offering a fully bespoke experience. Due to the artisanal process, lead times are approximately 4–6 weeks from order placement. 

Harti, an exciting new talent in contemporary art, is known for his large scale acrylic on canvas works that explore themes of psychology, philosophy, and human  nature.  With a background in clinical neuropsychology and a passion for composition, Harti’s interdisciplinary approach to art challenges the viewer to reconsider how they interact  with the world.  

His work has been showcased internationally, including at the Saatchi Gallery in London,  and exhibitions in Venice and Seoul.

With a forecast predicting changeable weather here in the UK, this may be a good time to invest in a Hancock x Harti trench.  (For more details, contact email pd@alexander-manufacturing.com or order online at HartiSWIM.com.)