NIKOLAJ STORM COPENHAGEN wins Zalando Sustainability Award at Copenhagen Fashion Week

Danish fashion label Nikolaj Storm Copenhagen has won this year’s Zalando Sustainability Award which was inaugurated last year as part of Copenhagen Fashion Week jointly with Zalando (a Berlin-based multi-national E-commerce company) to implement a more sustainable vision in fashion.

This season, the nominations were opened to international applicants, and the shortlist included  two UK-based brands: Mother of Pearl and Teatum Jones in addition to Nikolaj Storm Copenhagen, which is known for creating infinity collections drawn on inspiration from the streets, music, culture and the zeitgeist of the world. 

Nikolaj Storm Copenhagen limited collections will drop based on creativity and not based on seasons,  and all clothing items can be mixed and matched across collections, creating endless options for everyone, men and women.

With a unique unisex approach to a luxurious wardrobe, Nikolaj Storm aims “to encourage people to express themselves and bring colours and smiles back to our everyday runway.”  

Nikolaj Storm wants to empower everyone to feel good in their body, their clothes and with themselves.

Based in the heart of Copenhagen, Nikolaj Storm is sold through their own web shop as well as in selected commission-based stores in Copenhagen and Berlin.  Designer Nikolaj Storm also likes to do stage wear for musicians and up-coming talents forging everlasting friendships between the company and artists. 

The Zalando Sustainability Award proceedings took place in the Royal Danish Playhouse on August 12th 2021, the third day of Copenhagen Fashion Week, and was hosted by Cecilie Thorsmark, CEO Copenhagen Fashion Week with support from Anaheta v. Berenberg, Buying Director and Designer of Zalando and in the presence of the judges including Dio Kurazawa, Co-founder of the Bear Scouts, and invited guests.

Soeren Le Schmidt SS22 collection at Copenhagen Fashion Week

Danish designer Soeren Le Schmidt is most commonly associated with red carpet designs for celebrities in Denmark and abroad, but it is also a formidable fashion label for skillfully executed  tailoring. 

This season, the SLS collection showcased during Copenhagen Fashion Week (August 9 - 13 2021) is as usual, based on old school tailoring, therefore presenting high quality and skillfulness, alongside with a rockabilly and a new playful edge throughout the collection, experimenting with coarse metal buttons and solid silver zippers. 

The catwalk show took place at the highly anticipated sustainable, luxury hotel, Villa Copenhagen, which is continuing on the history of its former purpose as Danish Central Post & Telegraph Office.

Soeren Le Schmidt’s new looks were played out against hip hop music from the nineties, adding an underground vibe to the show.  

The designer's way of interpreting the concept of 'pattern manipulation', together with his graphics and asymmetry in design, inspired from architecture, are evident during the show. 

The gender fluid looks were occasionally styled with edgy details such as heavy chains across the genders, and centered around the use of sustainable materials that included pure wool  mixed with raw denim, alongside 100% sustainable furniture fabric, presented on a dynamic silhouette and a range of designs this season, including dresses, blazers and trousers.

International Design Trade Fairs in China for interiors and sustainable lifestlye return in the autumn

Design China Beijing returns this September for a four-day event, featuring international design names and local design talent, bringing together the industry's largest concentration of architectural and design thought leaders to share ideas and exchange global perspectives, according to organisers. 

Design China Beijing, 2020.

Taking place from 24th to 27th September 2021 as part of the Beijing International Design Week, the fourth edition of Design China Beijing will focus on the theme of "Nature, Nurture and Sustainable Beauty" to be expressed through sustainable design materials and industrial research.

As part of the Design Shanghai portfolio, which now covers three key cultural and commercial hubs in China, Design China Beijing will be followed by Design Shenzhen,  launching for the first time from 9th to12th December 2021. 

Organisers expect these events in the international design landscape further strengthen China's position as the world’s biggest design market. With innovative projects being developed across Beijing and Shanghai, led by the world’s key players in design and architecture, further establishes China’s significance to the global design community. 

A programme of  talks by some 30 design icons and global thought leaders, including Amanda Levete, Morag Myerscough, Teresa van Dongen, Satyendra Pakhalé, Dayong Sun and Shanshan Qi, to name but a few, will form highlights of Design China Beijing.

Set across 12,000² metres of the National Agricultural Exhibition Centre, one of the largest exhibition centres in Beijing, the event exhibits over 100 designers including some of China’s most exciting brands, both established and emerging, as well as the latest products from leading global design brands showcasing their commitment to regenerative design. 

Sustainable Lighting, Hutong.

The fair will focus on the theme of Nature, Nurture and Sustainable Beauty which will be expressed with sustainable design materials and industrial research, including not only architectural and urban innovation but also new modes of cultural and social interaction through design. 

A main ambition of the fair is seeking to engage not just the designer and industry but also the broader audience and bring awareness to the expanded technological, cultural, social and economic field of sustainability. 

Design China Beijing plays a pivotal role in this year’s global design calendar, as one of the leading international design trade events with a physical presence following the pandemic, according to the organisers.

Design China Beijing’s Show Director, Zhuo Tan comments: “After all the challenges we have been through over the past three years, Design China Beijing has developed into a hub of architectural and design innovation and has built a strong reputation in the design industry.  In the 4th edition of Design China Beijing, we would like to go beyond original designs and industrial research, and to deepen our understanding of 'sustainability' through designs from our exciting exhibitors and features.”

Copenhagen Fashion Week announces partnership with Norwegian fashion industry aligning sustainability requirements

Two Nordic nations joining forces to drive the message of sustainability at a time when climate change is deemed a "Code Red" emergency for our planet (according to the just-published IPCC report) is to be commended.

Today, 10 August 2021, at a press event taking place before the opening show of Copenhagen Fashion Week, CEO Cecilie Thorsmark announced that CPHFW's 2023 Sustainability Requirements will be implemented in the Norwegian fashion industry through a partnership with the industry organisation Norwegian Fashion Hub and the Norwegian fashion event Oslo Fushion Festival. A process that will lead to even more alignment and connectivity across the two Nordic countries and their industries.

"As a national fashion event, we have an obligation to contribute and shape new mindsets and practices for a more inclusive, equal and sustainable fashion culture. Working with sustainability, both in social and environmental aspects, the biggest impact is made through collaborative partnerships. I have great respect for the work Copenhagen Fashion Week has done with the 2023 Sustainability Requirements, so when Oslo Fushion Festival decided to set new sustainability standards for the event and the participating brands, it was natural to reach out to Cecilie Thorsmark to see how our organisations could collaborate", says Elin Carlsen, CEO of Oslo Fushion Festival.

"It is essential that the Norwegian industry contributes towards a more sustainable future for fashion. To be traceable and transparent in the process, we see the need for an international framework that is useful and educational for brands of all sizes. Therefore, we are proud to partner up with Copenhagen Fashion Week and Oslo Fushion Festival", says Elin Kathrine Saunes, CEO of the Norwegian Fashion Hub.

"When we launched the 2023 Sustainability Requirements in the beginning of 2020, one of our greatest aspirations was to pursue partnerships with other organisations and fashion weeks due to the tremendous potential of the framework in being rolled out more broadly. We are thrilled to see this aspiration come to life and to announce our first partners outside of Denmark to achieve greater industry alignment. It's a big milestone for us to see the requirements gaining recognition and we are excited to build on this step in the future", says Cecilie Thorsmark, CEO of Copenhagen Fashion Week.

The partnership includes the implementation of CPHFW's 2023 Sustainability Requirements to 60 Norwegian companies that are members of the Norwegian Fashion Hub as well as approximately 30 brands that participate in Oslo Fushion Festival. By using the framework, companies will be able to determine their current standing among six strongly interlinked focus areas for conducting responsible business.

The 2023 Sustainability Requirements were launched by CPHFW in close collaboration with CPHFW's Knowledge Partner In Futurum in January 2020. They represent an essential part of CPHFW's sustainability strategy to drive comprehensive change in the fashion industry and were reviewed by their Advisory Board and an international panel of experts.

Since its launch, the biggest trade fair in Denmark - Copenhagen International Fashion Fair (CIFF) - announced the implementation of the framework as first partner to collaborate with CPHFW on their roll-out. In May 2021, the government funded the "Fremtidens Tekstiler" programme and selected the requirements as the framework to train 50 SMEs to lead to further action. 

This season, Copenhagen Fashion Week (August 9 - 13 2021) have partnered with YouTube to ensure their runway shows can be experienced live by a global audience to drive forward a message that Copenhagen Fashion Week is a leading curator of incredible voices of innovation, positivity, influence and change, said the organisers.

The full schedule is being livestreamed across YouTube.com/Fashion, YouTube.com/Copenhagenfashionweek, and YouTube.com/Live  alongside the organisers' livestream on copenhagenfashionweek.com.

The Copenhagen-based brand (di)vision opens Copenhagen Fashion Week with their SS22 collection, taking inspiration from lounge silhouettes mixed with a workwear aesthetic. From a sustainable mindset the SS22 collection is created exclusively with handpicked deadstock fabrics.  

Designer Q&A's with a topline list of industry leaders

Also this season there will be a host of new interviewers for the Designer Q&A live after every show, exclusively on the copenhagenfashionweek.com and on CPHFW YouTube channel, participated by some of the industry's most influential movers and shakers, including Vogue Paris and W Magazine.

Among the interviewers are: Angela Koh of T Magazine at New York Times who will be in discussion with emerging designer (di)vision; while Gro Curtis of V Magazine and V Man shall catch up with Han Kjobenhavn on their SS22 collection.  Kati Chitrakorn of Vogue Business shall connect with Holzweiler in Norway and Heloise Salesy of Vogue.fr shall do backstage interviews with Rotate and Saks Potts on their inspiration for the upcoming season.

The schedule for the SS22 season is not limited to simply catwalks.  The schedule will include official ceremonies, opening breakfasts, dinners, cocktail hours, film premieres, off schedule designer presentations, lunches and tours. Some of their highlights include a breakfast event with Creative Denmark to launch their White Paper on Sustainability in the Fashion Industry, the Zalando Sustainability Award announcement and also an official menswear dinner partnering with Highsnobiety to conclude this season on the final night.

See the full line up listed on the schedule HERE.

 

British designer Rory Hutton creates new scarfs with interior design and stately homes as main theme

British textile designer, artist and historian Rory Hutton is launching a new range of silk scarfs, created with interior design aficionados in mind.  The collection draws inspiration from two distinct sources; the Aesthetic home inspired by 19th century tastemakers William Morris, Oscar Wilde and their artistic circle, as well as a whimsical take on the grand rooms of the stately home.

Blue Aesthete Scarf by Rory Hutton inspired by iconic 19th century tastemakers.

These classic 90x90cm silk scarves feature an iconic quote from William Morris (the iconic designer of the Arts and Crafts Movement) - Have nothing in your house which you do not know to be useful or believe to be beautiful - which has been lino-printed in an Arts and Crafts style font. 

The quote was frequently used by Irish poet and playwright Oscar Wilde in his lectures on taste and decoration, and perfectly sums up the Aesthetic approach to interior design, and is just as relevant to designers and decorators in the 21st century as it was in the 19th century, said Rory.

Green Aesthete Scarf by
Rory Hutton.

Alongside the quote is a classic Sussex chair. Based on vernacular furniture and designed by Philip Webb this chair was the must have item of artistic furniture for the aesthetic decorator.

The design also features sunflowers in Chinese style vases. Sunflowers are one of the most iconic emblems of the Aesthetic movement and were used widely on all kinds of household wares. Many followers of the movement collected blue and white Chinese and Japanese porcelains, James McNeill Whistler and Dante Gabrielle Rossetti among them.

The Stately Home is the theme of another collection by Rory Hutton.  

Scarf in 90 cm x 90 cm - Rococo Hounds by Rory Hutton.
All his scarfs, along with shawls, greeting cards and accessories are available on his website,
a perfect place for sourcing gifts for Christmas and all occasions.

These elaborate prints feature ornately framed portraits of family dogs, rococo side chairs, humped back sofas, flamboyant bouquets influenced by floral designer Constance Spry and gilt pier glasses in the Chinoiserie taste. All elements combine to create an elaborate whimsical pattern.

In developing these designs Rory Hutton drew on his collection of sketchbooks where he has recorded details from visits to stately homes and auction houses over many years. The designer’s signature lino cut prints have a lively and characterful appearance with many playful details to delight.

Rory Hutton begins his creations as drawings, which are turned into linocuts and hand-printed before being digitally composed and coloured. The designs are then sent to Lake Como in Italy where they are digitally printed on to the finest Italian silk.  His collections have included luxury scarves, ties, pocket squares, bow ties and also socks.  His prints have also been licensed by museums and galleries for use on a number of complementary products including tote bags, greetings cards, stationary, ceramics and even soap.  

Shoreditch Design Tringle 2021 to take place in London 18 - 26 September; The Royal Exchange to host The Makers' Market 20 - 24 September

London art and design event organisers are banking on improved social and economic conditions this autumn to bring back physical participation, albeit with online options, when pandemic restraints are more relaxed.

One of them is the Shoreditch Design Triangle, due to return with a wide spectrum of different design-led happenings, reflecting the flourishing creative sector that has taken root in the area, which is international in spirit and permissive in attitude, announced the organisers this week.

Visitors can expect a blend of both experimental and formal ideas, in the guise of product launches, exhibitions, installations, workshops, talks, tours and a few culinary delights, they reported.

Shoreditch is a modern mixed-use inner-city environment located in East London, a stone's throw from the financial district known at the City.  The event is the perfect platform to navigate the area, whether on foot, or on a bicycle (more environmentally-attuned) , and residents, creative industries, the arts, retailers, restaurateurs, party-goers and international visitors all join in. 

With both international and national travel being difficult to plan, organisers are also scheduling an array of different digital experiences to support the event, from online exclusives to event live streams. 

In celebration of 30 years of continuous production of the Balzac armchair by Matthew Hilton, shown here with an ottoman, SCP will exhibit a Special Anniversary Edition of the chair.  It is fully sustainable and upholstered in collaboration with Kvadrat. The Balzac will also be shown in several other locations across London; with Paul Smith in collaboration with Tibor fabrics, at Christopher Farr in collaboration with House & Garden,
and at Kvadrat in a new fabric by Peter Saville.

“We have a dedicated Virtual Events section on our website to promote digital events. Our team is making every effort to ensure the Shoreditch Design Triangle 2021 is accessible to as many people as possible, whether in person or remotely.

International in Spirit, Permissive in Attitude

 

The Shoreditch Design Triangle was first created in 2008 when SCP (a prominent design and furniture retailer in the area) and a few other local companies and designers got together to co-promote their activities during the London Design Festival. Since then, the creative industry in the area has thrived and the SDT has grown into a much larger district - in some years hosting up to 60 different events. Although it has grown, the core ideas behind the SDT remain - local collaboration, community spirit and embracing new ideas. 

Confirmed exhibitors todate include:  Adorno, Ally Capellino, Ella Doran, Floor Story, Hay, Jasper, Morrison Shop, Kingston University, Kvadrat, Labour & Wait, Lee Broom, Milagros, Mosaic Factory, Nolii, Pearson Lloyd, Peer Gallery, SCP, Solid Floor, Studio Tucktite, Tactile Baltics, Takram, Tala  and Toast.

Meanwhile The Royal Exchange, the beautiful and historic building at the heart of the City and home to some of the world’s most coveted luxury brands, is celebrating its 450th anniversary throughout 2021. 

During London Design Festival, from Monday 20th September to Friday 24th September 2021, The Royal Exchange will host The Makers’ Market, a platform for design-led brands and makers to exhibit and sell in a specially created pop-up space on the historic building’s Mezzanine.

 

As one of the first trading centres in the world, The Royal Exchange will display new products from a wide range of creative disciplines, which could include glassware, ceramics, leather, woodwork, and anything between. 

 

Designers are invited to apply for a space at The Makers’ Market at The Royal Exchange. There will be no charge for successful designers to exhibit and sell in the space. Products should not have been seen before, and should be available to purchase.

Noël Coward: Art & Style has opened at London’s Guildhall Art Gallery

The exhibition Noël Coward: Art & Style presently on show at the Guildhall Art Gallery gives valuable insight into the life and theatre, stage and on-screen work of the Master, and specifically into his vestiary style, and how he and his circle of influential luminaries have impacted fashion and culture, from his time up till the present day.

As a unique partnership between the City of London Corporation, The Noël Coward Foundation, and The Noël Coward Archive Trust, the exhibition was finally opened in mid-June this year, delayed from its original 2020 planned dates due to Covid restrictions.  Now running until 23 December 2021, the exhibition marks the 100th anniversary of Noël Coward’s London West End debut as a 19-year-old playwright, and also highlights his multi-faceted talent as a composer, director, actor and singer.

Bringing together never-before-seen materials from the Coward Archive, there are original pieces from Sir Noël’s productions, his homes and personal wardrobe, plus original artworks by the playwright himself and his designers. 

There are original set and costume design sketches, original vintage dresses by couturiers Molyneux, Hartnell and Stiebel, as well as contemporary fashions by designers influenced by Coward such as Georgina von Etzdorf and Anna Sui.

Other artwork included were by Oliver Messel, Cecil Beaton, Doris Zinkeisen, Oliver Smith, Gladys Calthrop, Clemence Dane, William Nicholson, and Rex Whistler.

Wendy Hyde, Chair of the City of London Corporation’s Culture, Heritage and Libraries Committee, said in an August 2020 interview that this free and widely anticipated exhibition is “a must-see for anyone interested in visual art, costume and stage design, and the history of British theatre, as well as admirers of Coward’s plays, songs and films.”

Additionally Brad Rosenstein, curator of Noël Coward: Art & Style, said Coward is especially celebrated for his verbal wit, and that his original productions were also visual feasts for their audiences, a vital element of his theatrical world shaped by the extraordinary designers with whom he worked, and his own brilliance as a director. “These productions had an international influence on fashion and were reflected in Coward’s personal style – from his wardrobe to home décor – and just like his plays and songs, still seem fresh, contemporary, and surprising today,” he said.

According to Elizabeth Scott, the City of London Corporation’s Principal Curator, Guildhall Art Gallery, Noël Coward was an icon of his time, and the exhibition features some remarkable pieces of art, costume, and memorabilia to pay tribute to Coward’s enduring style and legacy. 

Photos by Lucia Carpio (C)