Thursday, 19 December 2024

New Role: Peter Ackroyd Appointed Chairman of Campaign for Wool, Succeeding Sir Nicholas Coleridge

Peter Ackroyd MBE has been named Chairman of the not-for-profit Campaign for Wool*, with immediate effect, succeeding Sir Nicholas Coleridge CBE

King Charles III, the organisation’s Patron, continues to champion its mission.

Sir Nicholas Coleridge CBE (L.) and Peter Ackroyd MBE (R>)
Campaign for Wool 

Ackroyd, who has been the Campaign's COO since its inception in 2009, brings over 50 years of experience in the textile industry. His distinguished career includes roles as President of the International Wool Textile Organisation and Global Strategic Advisor for Australian Wool Innovation/Woolmark Company. Since the 1970s, Ackroyd has dedicated himself to advancing the wool industry through business development, research, innovation, and global marketing. He is highly regarded for his expertise in yarn, woollen, and worsted fabric sectors.

Sir Nicholas steps down as Chair to focus on his roles as the 43rd Provost of Eton College and Chair of Historic Royal Palaces. Reflecting on his tenure, he remarked, “What I thought would be a three- or four-year role turned into 14 wonderful years. It has been immensely rewarding, but it is time to hand over the reins. Peter, with his unparalleled knowledge of the international wool sector and our close collaboration over the years, is the perfect successor. I leave the Campaign in exceptionally capable hands.”

As Patron, King Charles III continues to advocate for wool’s natural, sustainable, renewable, and biodegradable properties, which align with his environmental priorities.

Ackroyd will focus on addressing critical challenges facing the wool industry, including the European Union’s Environmental Footprint (PEF) legislation. This framework, part of the EU’s forthcoming Digital Product Passports set for 2026, may undervalue wool’s environmental benefits, such as biodegradability and renewability, while insufficiently addressing issues like microplastic pollution caused by synthetic fibres.

“Now more than ever, wool-producing nations must unite to raise awareness about the environmental harm caused by synthetic fibres,” said Ackroyd. “At a time when global waste levels are unsustainable, we are seeing an alarming rise in synthetic materials, disinformation, and greenwashing by fast-fashion brands.”

The announcement follows a milestone year for the Campaign for Wool, which orchestrated over 20 events during Wool Month in October, engaging over 3,000 participants from farmers and manufacturers to designers and retailers. Its “Check it’s Wool” consumer campaign resonated widely across the textile sector.

Additionally, the Campaign launched a three-year collaboration with Aardman Animations to promote British and New Zealand wool through the beloved character Shaun the Sheep. The initiative, titled “Shaun Loves Wool,” highlights wool’s benefits in flooring and sustainability, aiming to educate consumers on its positive impact on the planet.

Ackroyd’s leadership promises to steer the Campaign through an evolving global landscape, ensuring wool’s legacy as a natural and sustainable resource endures.

*The Campaign for Wool is a not-for-profit international organisation that aims to raise awareness amongst consumers about the unique and sustainable properties of wool as a natural fibre and promote the many ways and products in which it can be used.  His Majesty King Charles III first conceived the initiative in 2008, when he was The Prince of Wales, and then it was formally launched to consumers in 2010. As a serious environmentalist, His Majesty believes wool's natural, renewable origin and highly technical structure offer fashion and interiors many superior benefits.  The Campaign for Wool are affiliates with British Wool, The Woolmark Company, Cape Wools and Campaign for Wool New Zealand.

Fashion Trade Fair: SCOOP LONDON returns to Olympia West, Kensington - February 9 - 11 2025

The Autumn/Winter '25 edition of Scoop is set to return to Olympia West in Kensington from 9–11 February 2025, once again reestablishing itself as London’s premier curated showroom event.

Under the expert curation of Founder and Managing Director Karen Radley, this season promises a fresh roster of talent, featuring exciting new faces among the line-up of international designers and lifestyle brands, all carefully selected to captivate buyers and visitors in an intimate and contemporary setting.


Karen Radley says, “Scoop is all about celebrating innovation and individuality. I am always on the lookout for designers who are pushing boundaries and setting trends in contemporary fashion. Each collection in this season’s lineup brings something fresh and unique, ensuring Scoop remains a beacon for newness and creativity in the industry. We are delighted to showcase such a wonderful selection at this season’s show!”

Among the new names in this season's Scoop is Artlove, which was founded in Paris in 2017.  Artlove is set to present a vibrant collection that cultivates the spontaneity of a feminine and easy-to-wear aesthetic. Committed to meticulous craftsmanship, Artlove’s clothes are inspired by the vivacious spirit of creativity, for a wardrobe imagined in Paris and to be enjoyed joyfully everywhere. Their dresses, knitwear and separates are designed in a palette of options to reflect individual personality. Each outfit is a work of art in itself, ready to be styled according to the wearer’s mood. 

Also making its debut at Scoop is iconic Spanish streetwear brand Loreak Mendian. Founded in Donostia over 25 years ago, Loreak Mendian means “flowers in the mountains”, and is faithful to its roots today by advocating for the power of design to create timeless and durable pieces. Driven by culture, their collections are inspired by artistic expressions; music, art, and graphic design, balance practicality with style, offering versatile urban apparel for both men and women that embodies the spirit of sustainability.

ALIX the Label

ALIX the Label, renowned for its luxurious take on wardrobe essentials, will also be showing for the first time. Designed ‘for those with a hint of rock and roll in their DNA’, this season’s highlights include leopard-print dresses paired with crisp sneakers for a laid-back look, and bold oversized blazers that can be styled with sky-high heels for a night out.

Orfeo Paris will unveil a collection that effortlessly blends structured tailoring with dreamy feminine charm. Expect tailored blazers, chic dresses, and cosy knitwear designed with precision and a keen eye for detail. Each piece captures the essence of Parisian sophistication while remaining approachable and practical for everyday wear.

Love Letter

For buyers seeking new jewellery designers, Love Letter’s latest collection, "The Divine Feminine," is an ode to feminine power and mystique. The line features jewellery pieces that harmonise celestial and earthly elements, with gemstones like rainbow moonstones, copper turquoise, malachite, amethyst, and carnelian taking centre stage. 

Also debuting, The Little Words Project is known for its handcrafted beaded bracelets featuring inspirational phrases. These customisable accessories promote kindness and positivity, encouraging wearers to “pay it forward” by gifting them to friends or loved ones in need of encouragement.

Travaux en Cours is set to impress with its chic and functional range of bags and hats.  Designed in France and woven in Italy, their unisex hats, crafted from durable woven paper that mimics straw, are available in a variety of colours, making them an ideal addition to any wardrobe.

Fancy Palas

Other new designers poised to catch buyers’ attention include My Beachy Side, Artemis Muse, Fancy Palas, Mirto, and Sunny Studio. 

Scoop favourites, such as Cocoa Cashmere, Dr. Bloom, Dream Catchers, Sophie + Lucie, Sofie Schnoor, Quinton Chadwick, Mou, Eribe, Dedicated, and Dr. Denim, will showcase their latest collections. 

Meanwhile, returning brands Dixie, Pom Amsterdam, Vilagallo, Nooki, Humility, and FRNCH promise to delight with their distinctive offerings.  

The much-anticipated Autumn/Winter '25 edition of Scoop will take place from 9–11 February 2025 at Olympia West, Kensington. 

For more information, click HERE. 

Monday, 16 December 2024

Textiles fair report: Denim Première Vision Delivers New Trends and Industry Innovations for Global Attendees in Milan This December

Denim Première Vision—the premier international gathering for denim industry professionals—was held on December 4th and 5th at Superstudio Più in Milan. The event attracted 2,610 trade visitors from across the globe, including Italy, France, Germany, the United Kingdom, Spain, the USA, the Netherlands, Switzerland, Turkey, China, and more.

Held under the patronage of the City of Milan, the two-day event served as a dynamic hub for the denim industry, showcasing innovation, creativity, and emerging trends. According to the organizers, it provided fashion brands and professionals with the chance to connect with global experts and explore the latest collections and innovations for the Spring-Summer 2026 season.

The event featured 71 exhibitors from 14 countries, including Japan, Italy, France, Portugal, Switzerland, and Turkey. The exhibitor profile included 63% Denim Spinners and Weavers, 27% Manufacturers and Finishers, 6% Services and Technologies, and 4% Accessory and Component Manufacturers.

Florence Rousson, President of the Première Vision Management Board, highlighted the event’s vibrant atmosphere and high-quality offerings. She noted, “Denim is evolving with unique versatility, spanning from casual to sophisticated, and is more than ever establishing itself as a cornerstone of the luxury sector.” 

"Today, it reflects the overarching aspirations of our entire industry: combining excellence, sustainability, and innovation. This edition of Denim Première Vision embodied an exceptional collective energy, with a resolutely forward-looking spirit. In a global context marked by uncertainty, the success of this event highlights our industry’s strong determination to maintain its momentum of collaboration and innovation. Attendance met expectations, both in terms of volume and the remarkable diversity of profiles."

The two-day fair featured a comprehensive programme of fashion seminars, conferences, and talk sessions, offering insights into the future of denim and sustainable fashion. Among these, denim expert Julieta Mercerat (Première Vision) led the fashion seminars, while a series of talks by industry leaders delved into transformative trends and solutions shaping the denim world. 

Denim Première Vision underscored its role as a hub of education, innovation, and collaboration for professionals committed to pushing the boundaries of the denim industry.

A notable addition this season was the Pitches—interactive sessions where exhibitors showcased their latest technological innovations and sustainable initiatives. These events created a collaborative space for dialogue, idea-sharing, and problem-solving, addressing critical challenges facing the denim industry while charting new directions for its future. 

Key Themes and Highlights:

Sustainability and Innovation: On stage, experts emphasized innovation in washing, dyeing, and sustainable materials. Highlights included the presentation of BIOAWAKE by Orta, which demonstrated eco-friendly denim advancements, and Andrea Venier's Zero PP concept, exploring new ways to eliminate plastics in denim production.

Craftsmanship Meets Technology: Discussions focused on combining traditional expertise with modern technology to minimize environmental impact without compromising quality. Blue Jeans Lavanderie showcased advancements in sustainable washing, while the "Made in Italy" ethos of quality and innovation was a recurring theme.

Culture and Design: Amy Leverton, founder of Denim Dudes, explored the influence of pop culture, social movements, and memes on denim design, forecasting trends for 2026.

Global Market Dynamics: Sociocultural challenges and market growth strategies for denim in the Middle East were examined, along with discussions on how women are reshaping fashion trends and stylistic norms.

In addition, the Denim Fashion District showcased collections from emerging designers and talents, offering visitors an inspiring glimpse into the creativity driving the future of denim.

The event also provided a platform for networking and business development, with the aisles buzzing with opportunities to forge partnerships and explore innovative products presented by exhibitors, spanning spinners, weavers, manufacturers, finishers, technology services, and accessory makers.

Ultimately, Denim Première Vision underscored its role as a hub of education, innovation, and collaboration for professionals committed to pushing the boundaries of the denim industry.

Denim Première Vision will return to Superstudio Più in Milan on May 21-22, 2025, spotlighting the Fall-Winter 2026-27 Denim season.

Saturday, 7 December 2024

Colour Trend: Mocha Mousse - A Deliciously Evocative Shade Named 2025 Colour of the Year

How enticingly rich it is! The trend forecasting consultancy Pantone, the global authority on colour, has unveiled Mocha Mousse as its Colour of the Year 2025.

According to Pantone, Mocha Mousse (PANTONE 17-1230) embodies a sophisticated and earthy elegance that can shine on its own or act as a versatile anchor for diverse palettes. From minimalist designs to intricate, detailed creations, this adaptable hue offers endless possibilities across industries that prioritize colour.

Describing the shade as a "sophisticated mellow brown," Laurie Pressman, Vice President of the Pantone, highlights its "inherent richness and sensorial warmth."  She notes that its comforting, indulgent quality resonates with our collective yearning for simplicity, connection, and shared pleasures. This evolution from last year’s Peach Fuzz—a similarly comforting tone—reflects a continued emphasis on themes of solace and grounding.

Leatrice Eiseman, Pantone’s Executive Director, calls Mocha Mousse an "unpretentious classic" that aligns with a growing preference for products that are seasonless, gender-neutral, and versatile. This trend reflects both rising living costs and the increasing focus on sustainability.

In fashion terms, this colour trend embodies the concept of quiet luxury, reflecting a preference for understated opulence through warm, inviting tones exuding confidence and elegance.

Since 1999, Pantone has selected a Colour of the Year to capture the essence of the cultural moment and the year ahead. The choice, drawn from Pantone’s extensive color library, is determined by the team’s global explorations, interviews, and analysis of visual trends.


Wednesday, 4 December 2024

Art exhibition: Messums London presents Fabian Peake's new collection of work from December 7th 2024 to January 11th 2025

Messums London is showing a bold, immersive exhibition by London-based multidisciplinary artist Fabian Peake from December 7th to January 11th 2025.

Known for his rich interplay of painting, sculpture, drawing and textiles, Peake, who was born in Rustington, Sussex in 1942, has crafted a distinct artistic language that melds his visual and poetic practices. With this collection of work, Peake welcomes viewers into his imaginative world, where personal memories and unexpected imagery collide. 

This inaugural exhibition at Messums London showcases Peake’s recent paintings alongside historic relief works, offering a unique glimpse into his playful visual language. Fabian Peake's career launched in the vibrant 1960s art scene following his studies at the Royal College of Art. 

His practice is deeply influenced by a fascination with the wall as a foundational element; his multi-disciplinary approaches are all extensions of painting, but all involve a concord with the wall, anchoring his exploration of flatness, illusion, and the delicate boundary between two and three dimensions.

The result is a body of work that resists conventional classification, bringing together text, symbol, and colour in a resonant dialogue that challenges viewers to explore the powerful connections between image, word, and memory. Peake indeed aims for the conflict between images, requiring argument and discomfort rather than harmony. 

The abstraction of images outside their context provides a liminal space for each part to be considered in its relationship to the other. Once familiar objects propose new relationships. ‘Outside the Chord’ is a testament to Peake’s inventive and enduring practice, inviting all who attend to glimpse the world through his singular lens.

“Outside the Chord is a reference to the habit of jazz musicians, when improvising and playing on a chord sequence, they often refer to 'playing outside the chord'. In other words, given a set of chords, they tease them and dance round in endless invention, just touching base here and there. Touching the shoulders of the chord. It's all rather like how I like to make paintings and other things.” - Fabian Peake

Peake’s paintings combine images from memories formed around everyday objects, encounters and familial references that create a sense of nostalgic curiosity and poetic reverie. The conception of a painting involves careful selection of images which are then mulled over in the form of notebook sketches or worked drawings. These often-repeated, weightless images – including the pointing hand, lifted from signs informing passers-by of a location; amorphous abstract shapes; the bespectacled profile of the king of Belgium, taken from a coin; and randomly numbered rulers – are seen floating on the canvas and are often engulfed by texts appropriated from his poems, the writing painted in reverse. Peake’s wooden wall-based relief works are abstracted, sign-like sculptures. Their execution is reminiscent of folk art in their hand-made quality but, finished in thick glossy colours, they abandon any specific cultural or practical meaning, leaning instead to a more personal and playful application. It is perhaps this comfort with creativity at large which gives his paintings their most compelling component. They are vessels containing a melee of thoughts that can be picked up independently or examined in conjunction to others. Their easy presence beguiling the deeper intent to reach into what is real and what is suggested. To find magic in what is imagined and unexpected, according to Messums London at 28 Cork Street, London, W1S 3NG UK.

Image from Messums London.

Art exhibition: Messums London presents Kitty Shepherd's new work until December 7th

From now until December 7th, Messums London is hosting a new highly anticipated series of vessels and tiles by internationally recognised British ceramic artist, Kitty Shepherd (b. 1960). 

Known for her bold use of colour with slip, Shepherd’s practice is centred around her manual dexterity and exceptional craft aligned with her passion as an observer of cultural ephemera, and the emotional attachment we feel for inanimate, immediate items that conversely form an integral and lasting part of our collective experience and identity.

There is an innate juxtaposition between the timelessness of the extraordinarily fine craftsmanship involved in the creation of Shepherd’s ceramic pieces and the shapes she chooses to employ, and the transient, mass-produced consumer objects that form the subject matter of their vibrant surface decoration.

“I believe that many of the objects we are attracted to today have been with us all of our lives. They may live deep inside our DNA, quite literally the fabric of who we are. I continually ask myself what are my favourite things and also the following questions: Why these objects? What power do they hold for me? What meaning? What memories do they conjure up? What emotions? And most importantly, what stories do I tell myself about them and through them? How have they become a part of who I am and what part of me do I leave behind in them?” – Kitty Shepherd

Shepherd’s work makes unexpected – often humorous – connections between iconic images and designs that she recalls as cultural milestones; for example, the Zoom Lolly Vase (2020), in which she places the repeat motif of a Zoom ice lolly over a backdrop of the CND peace logo – global consumer capitalism meeting international political activism, turning an innocent children’s treat into a sinister reminder of the pervasive impact and quasi-fetishisation of the arms race in the second half of the 20th century. 

The result is art as a form of play, involving the reframing of objects within a world of attention and manipulation of context; a context standing in a metaphorical relation to the world of everyday life.

Image from Messums London 

MESSUMS LONDON of 28 Cork Street, London, W1S 3NG is a 2,000 sq ft exhibition space on Cork Street behind the Royal Academy. It hosts a rolling programme of exhibitions for our contemporary artists, and is run under the umbrella MESSUMS ORG.

Sunday, 1 December 2024

International textiles trade fair: Heimtextil (14 - 17 January 2025 in Frankfurt, Germany) to feature key trends for 2025/26

Heimtextil, the international trade fair focused on home and contract textiles, will be held from 14 to 17 January 2025 at Messe Frankfurt, located at Ludwig-Erhard-Anlage 1, 60327 Frankfurt, Germany.

This event will gather global brands to showcase emerging trends in fabrics and textiles, while spotlighting innovations in sustainability across the industry. Attendees can explore a broad range of products, including bedding, rugs, curtains, fibres, yarns, and upholstery fabrics.

For the 2025/26 season, Heimtextil introduces three key themes under the title "Future Continuous", curated by the trend forecast agency Alcova Milano:  

Naturally Uneven: Celebrating the raw beauty of natural materials like linen, hemp, jute, wool, and nettle through handcrafted processes.

Radically Restructured: Highlighting innovative and recycled fibres designed for superior industrial processing with a minimal ecological footprint.

Regenerative: Embracing circulation and regeneration with bio-based, upcycled, or recycled materials, including fibres from hemp to wool.

Patricia Urquiola

This edition also features a special immersive design experience in Hall 12.0, conceptualized by renowned international designer Patricia Urquiola. Titled "among-us", this sustainable installation will be accompanied by talks where Urquiola will delve into the season's themes. Highlights include a live event on the Retail Stage (Hall 12.1) and a discussion with Simon Keane-Cowell during the Architonic Live Talk on the Texpertise Stage (Hall 4.0). Full details are available in the online event calendar.

For the Heimtextil event programme, click HERE.

In Hall 3.1, the DecoTeam will offer creative interior decoration and design presentations, while the neighboring Design Lounge, powered by DecoTeam, will serve as a hub for international industry networking. 

The lounge will feature community-focused initiatives and top brands such as Brink & Campman, Designers Guild, Fine, Golze1873, Haro-Teppiche, Kadeco, and Theko.

Images courtesy of Heimtextil.