Helmut Lang's multi-functional Autumn/Winter 2021 collection

As we gradually transition into the post-pandemic world, we’ll be looking for clothing that is easily adaptable and flexible for our “new normal” lifestyle.

The New York-based fashion brand Helmut Lang’s Autumn/Winter 2021 collection offers the right respond by focusing on creating pieces that are multi-functional and multi-seasonal, in the timeless genre that is typical of Helmut Lang.

Inspired by ski attire and weatherproof garments, functional and hi-tech materials such as double neoprene and Astro-foil are used for their water resistance and wind proofing qualities, adding padded and quilted details, while giving a sci-fi appearance through their matte, silver and reflective surfaces.

True to the brand’s heritage, both men’s and women’s collections sport timeless silhouettes and reconstructed styles using innovative materials and mixing signature Helmut Lang details such as straps, layered fabrics and patchwork.

Key items include a men’s puffer vest in a matte cotton nylon fabric with contrasting silver accents, a tracksuit made from slightly sheer nylon, fleece pieces in experimental patchwork, women’s zippered neoprene leggings, and classic sporty silhouettes such as a hoodie, long-sleeved T-shirts and polo shirts in unexpected materials.

Additionally, the brand, offers the essentials that make the foundation of a wardrobe, reinterpreted through the Helmut Lang DNA by using the brand’s staple fabrics: denim, leather, and jersey. Deconstructed basics feature cutouts and detachable sleeves, iconic padding and strapping details.

For Men’s, a casual over-shirt silhouette was re-interpreted in structured shiny lambskin, with biker jacket details, such as zippers and diamond quilted lining.

Additionally, the brand, offers the essentials that make the foundation of a wardrobe, reinterpreted through the Helmut Lang DNA by using the brand’s staple fabrics: denim, leather, and jersey. Deconstructed basics feature cutouts and detachable sleeves, iconic padding and strapping details.

Key pieces include the Women’s Smooth Rider Suit, re-interpreting the suit by introducing this feminine yet casual version. Made with cotton twill fabric with comfort stretch, the jacket is cropped like a double-breasted blazer silhouette and is paired back with a micro-mini wrap skirt with elastic tie and buckle closure, adding more utilitarian features. 

Other classic Helmut Lang silhouettes include a drapey long-sleeved dress with cut-out details and interlock T-shirts with adjustable and detachable sleeves, allowing for multiple ways of wearing the pieces. 

All photos from Helmut Lang.

Paul Smith modernises classic tailoring for AutumnWinter 2021, presented at Paris Fashion Week

British brand Paul Smith, rcognised as one of the most successful designers of all from the UK, presented as part of the digital Paris Fashion Week this season a video of its new Autumn/Winter 21 collection for menswear, but chose to release their new womenswear collection as static fashion shots. It is a collection where the designer brand takes one on a journey through the subcultures that have signposted the house’s design director Paul Smith’s career.

Nevertheless, the menswear video displays the movement of the featured classic shapes and fabrics for the season, with many of the tailoring and coordinating knitwear, ensemble suiting pieces and patterns crossing over to the womenswear collection, resulting in androgynous gender-neutral looks in some cases. 

After a turbulent year in a pandemic-laden world filled with uncertainties and unknowns, this Paul Smith autumn winter 2021 collection upholds our expectation of a brand that is known for its masterful tailoring and suits, dependable timeless looks that will satisfy existing customers as well as appeal to a new generation of potential customers.

The womenswear collection features 20 ensembles for autumn/winter '21, of which many can be pre-ordered on the Paul Smith official website for a limited time (until the end of Paris Fashion Week on March 10th).

Look for outerwear, where oversized macs, a reversible sheepskin and a refined black wool coat, based on the popular Opera Tuxedo, are all updated versions of timeless styles that should be found in everyone’s wardrobe.

The fabrics and techniques of tailoring have been applied to more casual shapes to create everyday pieces with a refined edge. 

This is seen in an oversized shirt cut from soft wool, a cropped bomber jacket created from recycled wool with silk lining, and coordinated jacket and trouser sets that pair relaxed shapes with smart tailoring fabrics.

When suits do appear they are softer in construction for added comfort. A new suit shape with a four-button blazer and 1970s references is a key style for the season. It is offered in gold, as well as checked and striped options.

As with every Paul Smith collection, patterns, checks and stripes are prevalent. A modernised paisley revives another Paul Smith signature pattern and appears on new dress shapes, knitted jumpers and a collection of bags.

Tartan tailoring and check patterns bring to mind 1970s ska and striped mohair knitwear is part punk, part preppy, with vegan potato starch buttons on the cardigans adding an ethical edge.

Presenting a familiar Paul Smith pattern in an innovative new way, the new Painted Stripe bag series is an expressive take on the Artist Stripe motif, which has been added to high quality leather backpacks, totes and cross-body bags.

All images courtesy of PAUL SMITH.