Sunday, 24 September 2023

Art Exhibition: Rio Kobayashi, Peter Pilotto and Christopher De Vos Caballero among key designers exhibiting at Cromwell Place during London Design Festival

As part of the annual London Design Festival (LDF), held this year 16 - 24 September, the Brompton Design District -  an affluent part of London that includes the Victoria and Albert Museum - typically features the work of designers, artists and creative professionals, providing them a platform to showcase their innovative and cutting-edge design concepts during the annual LDF.  

The Brompton district hosts a series of exhibitions, installations and presentation in showrooms, shops, galleries and institutions across the whole area.

One such venue is the Cromwell Place which has 14 gallery spaces, across five Grade II listed townhouses, and a programme of arts exhibitions and events.

Among the highlights is MANUS MANUM LAVAT, One hand washes the other  by East-London based artist, designer and maker Rio Kobayashi.  Though this is his first solo exhibition, Rio has involved many other creators to form a collaborative show and event space to create a convivial living space.  

Rio's exhibition features his craftsmanship primarily in wood carving and his sense of fun injected into everyday objects that are also practical as well as aesthetically creative.  Bringing together design pieces that reflect his deep sense for relationships, his works on display are results of collaborations and the gallery space will co-exist as a living room for people enjoying the company of design objects and designers. From DJs, to chefs, graphic designers and artists, the exhibition will give a little insight into what is most essential to Rio and his work – bringing people together and having fun.

Rio's belief is that happiness is achieved by creating a life of quality both in the materialistic world and in our internal worlds.  Note his collaboration with Austrian audio specialist Wiener Lautsprecher Manufaktur (WLM ) for its wood encased amplifiers and speakers.  Thus when one enters his exhibition space, there's soul-enhancing music playing to entertain visitors.

There's a fish table - Fatty Tuna - an oak table  featuring a fish painted by artist James Hague, and comes complete with a detachable fin that can double up as a cutting board. A modula sofa designed with Flavia Brandle covered with new fabrics by Peter Pilotto and Christopher de Vos of Phase 2, who are also showing Cromwell Place. Peter and Christopher also supplied fabrics for Rio's lanterns.







Rio was born of mixed heritage in Japan (Austrian-Italian-Japanese) to an artisan family, and was later trained as a cabinet maker in Austria. He lived and worked in a number of different cities around Europe before setting up his own practice in London.






Phase 2 is the collaboration between Christopher De Vos Caballero and Peter Pilotto that represents a new collection of homewares, furnishings and clothing explore the interaction between fashion and interiors, and highlighting the collaboration between designer and producer. 

The duo ran the Peter Pilotto fashion brand for 14 years and decided to rethink their creative business  2020.

Following extensive travelling through Latin America, reconnecting with Christopher's half Peruvian, half Belgian roots, Phase 2 is the result of 2 years of developing a new concept which explores the exchange between the surroundings and self-expression, between the spaces we inhabit and the clothing we wear.

The designers were inspired by Christopher's grandfather who was a topographer and collection of minerals.  The exhibition includes a range of homewares with motifs informed by minerals such as malachite, pyrite and black opal.  Works include hand-knotted rugs made in Nepal, jacquard weaves from Italy for upholstery, hand-painted and lacquered furniture made in England, embroidered velvets for screens and soft furnishings and digitally printed throws and clothing.

Untold Beauty: Korean craft and design - hosted by Lloyd Choi Gallery.  In recent years, whilst South Korea’s dynamic pop culture has become an international phenomenon, the country has seen a new movement, reviving the aesthetic in art and design of the Joseon dynasty (around the time of the 14th century), a distinctive time in Korean craftsmanship.

Designers, makers, and artists are finding inspiration from traditional forms, materials, processes and in traditional values of that dynastic period, holding these at the core of their contemporary practices, exploring the current return to Joseon’s contemplative aesthetic: featuring ceramics, furniture, textile, and woodwork, including the Moon Jar.


Peruke Projects presents Itinerant Practices featuring the works of three artists who lived and worked in Singapore at the same time.  They are the multi-displinary artists Hélène le Chatelier, American painter Lydia Janssen and British artist Piers Bourke.  The show is built in relation to the individual negotiations between "back home" and "now", according to text provided, culminating in a richly woven tapestry of memoirs of cross-culturalism, identity, transnationality and hybridism.

Hélène Le Chatelier’s Missing Part underscores resilience as a commonality of our human condition. Lydia Janssen draws from previous exhibitions Spotlight and Yellow Brick Road, and developing new sketches titled The Rectangles, investigating what it means to belong and feel at home. Piers Bourke’s Fan series were developed as a result of his time living in Singapore. The convergence of cultural influences of living and traveling in Southeast Asia led him back to the fundamentals of working with paint on paper and canvas. 

In the Pavilion Gallery, showcasing for the first time is a roster of artists that comprise Canopy Collections. Entitled Full House is an exhibition of new works by 22  international artists ranging from the emerging to some of the most established names in the contemporary art world., uniting under one roof a broad diversity of expressions, backgrounds and aesthetics.


The focus of Canopy Collections for the past three years is to provide a supportive and accessible environment for artists and collectors alike, through carefully curated exhibitions of unique works of art. Full House invites the audience "to re/discover both the variety and mutuality of the artistic practices they represent, celebrating art in its various forms, and "as a vector for exchange and community building."  

The line up of artists include David Batchelor, Charlotte Beaudry, Richard J. Butler, Thomas Cameron, Celeste, William Cobbing, Lara Davies, Benedikte Klüver, Sarah Lederman, Anastasia Lopoukhine, Daniel MacCarthy, Ellie MacGarry, James William Murray, Irvin Pascal, Dan Rees, Marianne Thoermer, Grace Tobin, Ian Whittlesea, Aethan Wills, Salomé Wu, William Stein.

All photos by Lucia Carpio.

Friday, 22 September 2023

Fashion: Simone Rocha and Levi's collaborate with Cros clogs

Footwear brand Crocs is once again in fashion, collaborating with major fashion movers and shakers.

This September, British fashion designer Simone Rocha featured bejewelled Crocs in her SS24 collection show during London Fashion Week.

Simone Rocha and Crocs collaboratively explore the creative juxtaposition of femininity and utilitarianism to bring life to new designs that join up both brands' DNA and aesthetic embracing the  unexpected. The collaboration consists of three Crocs styles reimagined with signature Simone Rocha pearls, crystal and jet beading, some with inbuilt Simone Rocha embellished socks. 

Now jeans and clothing brand Levi’s is celebrating the 150th anniversary of its 501 jeans by collaborating with Crocs in a capsule collection that emphasizes self-expression and versatility, combining both comfort and style.

The three-piece range from the Croc x Levi’s collection draws inspiration from traditional Japanese craftsmanship and denim artistry, featuring an updated version of the classic Crocs’ All-Terrain Clog.  Each pair is wrapped with a tie-dye printed denim inspired by Japanese Shibori dyeing technique  and Sashiko stitchng - a traditional Japanese embroidery technique, and a red contrast sole. In tribute to Levi's iconic jeans, a Red Tab can be found on each right shoe, along with Levi's button shank hardware.  There are also eight custom-made Jibbitz charms inspired by Levi's archives: '60s counterculture and archival Levi’s graphics' for wearers' own customisation.

The Levi’s x Crocs collection is available online and in select Levi stores as well as on Crocs’ site and wholesale partners.

Monday, 18 September 2023

Street Style: London Fashion Week September 2023

The weather is playing havoc on London this week.  So how do the fashionistas brave the rain this September Fashion Week in the capital? The motto is to boldly go and be theatrical.  Have fun with it.

HOLZWEILER September 2023 Street Style 
(Deborah Iona Photography, British-Fashion Council) 

HOLZWEILER September 2023 Street Style 
(Deborah Iona Photography, British-Fashion Council) 

HOLZWEILER September 2023 Street Style 
(Deborah Iona Photography, British-Fashion Council) 


HOLZWEILER September 2023 Street Style 
(Deborah Iona Photography, British-Fashion Council)

HOLZWEILER September 2023 Street Style 
(Deborah Iona Photography, British-Fashion Council)


SUSAN FANG September 2023 Street Style
(Deborah Iona Photography, British-Fashion Council) 

SUSAN FANG September 2023 Street Style
(Deborah Iona Photography, British-Fashion Council)

HOLZWEILER September 2023 Street Style 
(Deborah Iona Photography, British-Fashion Council)

Sunday, 17 September 2023

Art, Design & Cultural Events: London Design Festival 16 — 24 Sept 2023

London Design Festival 2023 is in full swing and this September, the LDF programme over 9 days is spread across 13 districts, outdoor sculptures, solo exhibitions, two church installations, insightful talks and much more.  It is an experience for all the senses, including AI-enhanced smells, artful feasts for the eyes in Greenwich and sounds and textures come together in an ode to Shoreditch’s industrial legacy.  

Click HERE for free digital guide.

London designer Yinka Ilori is a keynote speaker at  Global Design Forum
at the V&A Museum.
Photo from Global Design Forum website.

Plus, the Global Design Forum at the Victoria & Albert Museum (V&A) in South Kensington, is the LDF’s curated thought leadership programme, celebrating design and the minds shaping its future.  The programme features the challenging and exciting topics that designers face today, including regenerative futures; new possibilities in digital design; identity and inclusivity; design to shape behaviour; connecting communities; participation in design and design for crisis and recovery. Speakers from the global design community share new perspectives on how design can be more accessible, inclusive, sustainable and at the forefront of change.  The sessions are hosted at the V&A Museum on 16, 17, 20 and 21 September 2023.

Created in association with Artichoke and supported by Bloomberg Philanthropies, "Aura" installation by Pablo Valbuena at St Paul's Cathedral examines the potential of time, sound and light to create a contemporary response to this Christopher Wren masterpiece.  ‘Aura’ listens to the sound, voices and music generated in St Paul’s and materialises them into a spectral, three-dimensional aura.
Image from London Design Festival

One of the headline LDF events is "Aura" by France-based Spanish artist Pablo Valbuena inside the St Paul's Cathedral, EC4.  "Aura" is a live installation that transforms the sounds present in the Cathedral into a pulsating line of light projected at an architectural scale. The piece is deeply intertwined with the context and fabric of the cathedral. It introduces new ideas while seamlessly integrating into the building and its daily life as if it had been part of the original design.

Another headline event is ‘Halo’ by Moritz Waldemeyer at St Stephen Walbrook, EC4

"Halo" by Moritz Waldemeyer integrates two complementary
layers to create an immersive experience.
Images by Ed Reeve from London Design Festival

"Halo" is a transcendent light installation nestled within the storied architecture of St. Stephen Walbrook Church. This historic landmark, also designed by the Sir Christopher Wren, stands as a symbol of London's resilience and enduring spirit, rising from the ashes of the Great Fire of London in 1666. 'Halo' thoughtfully integrates two complementary layers to create an immersive experience. The first layer features a meticulously designed conical pendulum, carefully embedded with integrated lights. Suspended from the apex of the church, the pendulum traces a celestial-like path around the church's central attraction – the renowned altar. Created by acclaimed artist Henry Moore, this travertine marble masterpiece invites viewers into a shared space of contemplation and admiration.

One of the special projects during LDF is "Nice to Meet You Again" by Morag Myerscough at
Shoreditch Electric Light Station, N1.
Image from London Design Festival
Morag and MINI (one of the motor brands under BMW group) are united by their "shared values of imaginative space utilisation." They integrate their designs with the surrounding environment to create captivating experiences. These values shape the installation, "providing a fully immersive journey into a future where spaces are adorned with abundant greenery and teeming with vibrant life."

Until Tuesday, there are talks at the installation that invites visitors to explore a luscious urban world where tradition meets technology. The installation exudes a contagious sense of optimism and positive energy, mirroring MINI's signature 'go-kart feeling' and playful nature. 

Morag, born and raised in Holloway, London, has now embraced life in the countryside but has always been captivated by how colour, pattern and words can alter the urban environment and the public perception of spaces.  This collaboration with MINI amplifies the brand's commitment to creating dynamic and positive mobility solutions that reflect the energy and diversity of both rural and urban life.

Coinciding with LDF is the Shoreditch Design Triangle cultural event  with a programme of design-led happenings that are representative of the vibrant creative scene that flourishes in the area.  Shoreditch's transformation from historically a working-class and industrial area to a hub of creativity, culture and innovation, can be traced back to the 1990s when artists, musicians, and creative entrepreneurs began to move into the area, attracted by its affordable rents and industrial spaces. This influx of creative individuals laid the groundwork for the neighborhood's transition into a creative and design-focused community.

Saturday, 16 September 2023

Exhibition: V&A stages first UK exhibition dedicated to the work of Gabrielle ‘Coco’ Chanel

The name Chanel needs no introduction.  And it is the pioneering designer Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel behind the name who paved the way for a unique elegance that continues to influence the way women dress today.  Now the iconic designer  is the focus of a major exhibition dedicated to her work at London's Victoria and Albert Museum (V&A).

Gabrielle Chanel, 31 rue Cambon, Paris, 1937. Photo by Roger Schall
Courtesy of Victoria &Albert Museum, London


(c) Victoria and Albert Museum, London
This first UK exhibition - Gabrielle Chanel. Fashion Manifesto* - dedicated to the celebrated French couturière was opened on Saturday September 16 2023 and will run until 25 February 2024 and to-date, tickets are already sold out until Christmas. (Tickets at vam.ac.uk/chanel)

Gabrielle Chanel. Fashion Manifesto charts the evolution of Coco's iconic design style and the establishment of the House of CHANEL, from the opening of her first millinery boutique in Paris in 1910 to the showing of her final collection in 1971.

Marion Morehouse, wearing a black crepe romain bolero dress with fringed and paillette embroidered skirt by Chanel. Published in Vogue US, 1926. Edward SteichenCondé NastShutterstuck
Courtesy of Victoria &Albert Museum, London

Lithograph of CHANEL No.5 fragrance 
by Sem (Georges Gouarsat, dit) (1863-1934),
published in The New York Times,
16 December 1924 © Paris Musées,
Musée Carnavalet, Histoire de Paris
Courtesy of V&A Museum, London
Featuring almost 200 looks seen together for the first time, as well as accessories, perfumes and jewellery, the exhibition explores Chanel’s pioneering approach to fashion design. She was the original influencer; her iconic designs – the little black dress, the jersey separates, the costume pearls, the tweed suit and Chanel No 5 perfume – are symbols of luxury, style, sexuality and power even to this day. 

Based upon the Gabrielle Chanel. Fashion Manifesto exhibition organised by the Palais Galliera, Fashion Museum of the City of Paris, the exhibition is re-imagined by the V&A, with more than 100 new objects including 60 new looks. 

It features rarely seen pieces from the V&A’s collection, alongside looks from Palais Galliera and the Patrimoine de CHANEL, the heritage collections of the fashion House in Paris. Highlights include one of the earliest surviving Chanel garments from 1916; original costumes designed by Chanel for the Ballets Russes production of Le Train Bleu in 1924; outfits created for Hollywood stars Lauren Bacall and Marlene Dietrich; an early example of Chanel's ground-breaking evening trousers and ensembles from Chanel’s final collection of 1971.


(c) Victoria and Albert Museum, London

Chanel designed first and foremost for herself. By creating clothes fit for an independent and active lifestyle, she anticipated the needs and wants of the modern woman. Through ten themed sections, the exhibition explores Chanel’s innovative approach to fabric, silhouette and construction, and will examine how she drafted a new framework for fashion in the 20th century. 

Showcasing a stunning array of some of Chanel’s most notable designs from her sixty years in fashion, the exhibition analyses her professional career, the emergence and the development of her style, and her contribution to the history of fashion. The exhibition also highlights Chanel’s British inspirations, such as her adoption of tweed, partnerships with British textile firms and textile factory in Huddersfield.

Coinciding with the V&A exhibition, the BBC  features a documentary Coco Chanel Unbuttoned, available on BBC iplayer (if watching it in the UK).  According to thee BBC, this documentary weaves together the truth of Chanel and her work, based on a series of intimate interviews with her biographer Paul Morand, and voiced by La Boum and Braveheart actress Sophie Marceau. With animation and unprecedented access to the House of Chanel archives, never before has a film managed to get to the heart of her enduring legacy like this one. 

*Gabrielle Chanel. Fashion Manifesto
Exhibition presented in partnership with Palais Galliera, Fashion Museum of the City of Paris,
Paris Musées
With the support of CHANEL
The Sainsbury Gallery
16 September 2023 – 25 February 2024

Thursday, 14 September 2023

Fashion: London Fashion Week opens with city wide celebration

Starting on Friday 15th, this season's London Fashion Week schedule boasts 51 catwalk shows, 17 presentations, 69 events and 37 digital activations which are available to watch on the official Digital Hub.

Top names to feature fashion shows include 16Arlington, Burberry, JW Anderson, KNWLS, Molly Goddard, Richard Quinn, ROKSANDA and Simone Rocha.

To view the full schedule, click HERE.

On September 14 at 8:00pm BST, Vogue UK is bringing its very own fashion fantasia to the West End (theatre land of London) – and everyone can tune in to watch the pages of the magazine come dramatically to life at Theatre Royal Drury Lane. 

Vogue World: London is masterminded by BAFTA- and Olivier-winning director Stephen Daldry, show director Emily Burns and creative producer Fran Miller alongside the Vogue team.  The evening will run the gamut of the performing arts – opera and ballet and theatre – with turns from a galaxy of stars ranging from Kate Moss to Sophie Okonedo, Ian McKellen to Stormzy.

Contributing looks for the performers and guests are from 16Arlington, Ahluwalia, Burberry, Charles Jeffrey LOVERBOY, Erdem, Maison Margiela and SS Daley, among dozens of other design luminaries.

To tune in to the Vogue livestream show, click HERE.

While tickets have sold out,  Vogue World: London is livestreamed around the world. Head to www.vogue.world to watch the main performance then shop all of the looks from the night after the final bow.

Meanwhile there are City Wide Celebrations during London Fashion Week with a range of fashion events, offering a curated programme of unique experiences, activations and promotions available to redeem both online and across London. 

Note the launch of London-based luxury brand L Saha's newest collection, the opening of Furious Goose's first ever physical store and BAV TAiLOR is offering an exclusive gift with orders.

You can also experience 'A History of Runway' alongside a collection launch from Jayne Pierson, as well as getting 15% off orders in store and online at NOK NOK

Click HERE for full details.

Exhibition: Ditchling Museum of Art + Craft celebrates textile designer-founders of the modernist period

Two designers considered among the most significant textile creatives in the UK's modernist period, will be honoured in a major exhibition this autumn, at the Ditchling Museum of Art + Craft*.

Hilary Bourne and Barbara Allen setting up loom (used in The Lady 1951)
Image: Ditchling Museum of Art + Craft

Located in the Lewes District of East Sussex, England, Ditchling Museum of Art + Craft will be marking ten years since its major redevelopment with the opening of the exhibition: Double Weave: Bourne and Allen's Modernist Textiles, specifically on the museum's co-founder Hilary Bourne (1909 – 2004) and Barbara Allen (1903 – 1972), her partner in life and creative practice.

Double Weave: Bourne and Allen's Modernist Textiles is on from 16 September 2023 to 14 April 2024.

The two designers ran an internationally successful textile studio, designing and making a variety of fabrics for the UK's top retailers, such as tweed for Fortnum & Mason, furnishing fabric for Heals and scarves for Liberty’s. 

The turning point in their career came in 1951, when they won the competition to design and make curtains for the newly built Royal Festival Hall. They went on to win commissions to make the costumes for the multi-Oscar winning 1959 film Ben Hur and the interiors of the UK’s first jet planes.

In short, they were two of the most significant textile designers of the modernist period, yet they remain largely unknown - until now.  The exhibition will give space to their story. It will speak to the invisibility of women as leading modernist designers, as well as how women's intimacy informs creative pursuits, and it has been brought together by a series of curators.

Hilary Bourne and Barbara Allen's Royal Festival Hall Sample 1951 Photo Credit Sara Morris
Image: Ditchling Museum of Art + Craft

Curator, cultural producer and academic E-J Scott is spearheading the project and in a style reflective of the vast and vibrant women’s networks of the time. 

E-J has assembled a collective of the country’s most inspiring fashion and textile historians to co-curate the show: Jane Hattrick (dress historian), Shelley Tobin (textile curator and dress historian), Veronica Issac (course leader MA Fashion Curation at UAL), Jane Trais (women’s historian) and Susanne Rowland (costume historian).

Objects on display will be from Ditchling Museum of Art + Craft’s collection, with some key loans from other institutions. Work by two contemporary artists will complement the exhibition. 

An immersive installation by textile artist Omeima Mudawi-Rowlings will greet visitors in the Introductory Gallery, featuring textiles coloured with natural dyes using techniques pioneered by Bourne and Allen. It will explore her own experience as a Black deaf artist with Sudanese heritage, using layering of text and images in English, BSL and Arabic. The experience of being seen and not seen, and of textiles often being dismissed as "domestic" or "women’s work" is part of this story.

Sussex-based weaver and dyer Poppy Fuller Abbott has created a collection of textile samples in the style of Bourne and Allen’s work which will be used as handling samples in the exhibition.  Visitors can also watch a film of Poppy at work on the loom. 

Steph Fuller, Director, Ditchling Museum said “In this 10th year since the creation of Ditchling Museum of Art+ Craft in its current form, it’s the perfect moment to celebrate Hilary Bourne our co-founder, and showcase the fantastic Modernist textiles she created with her partner Barbara Allen.  This is a rare chance to see this work and discover their Modernist legacy, alongside a new textile installation by Omeima Mudawi-Rawlings which references their lives and techniques, bringing them into a new contemporary context.”

*Ditchling Museum of Art + Craft is home to a permanent collection that showcases the work of artists and crafts people living and working in Ditchling – a village which nurtured some of the 20th century’s most innovative and creative ideas in crafts and design. The museum presents two new exhibitions a year alongside the permanent collection.