Adeline Ziliox’s “Crystal Skin” collection unveiled at Paris Fashion Week

"What is Inside, See it Outside"

Where the clothing conceals the body of the woman, the designer Adeline Ziliox unveils it with her "Crystal Skin" Collection.

Transparency assumed, body unveiled and femininity affirmed, here is the DNA of the Collection.

The technical materials, which are often found in the work of the designer, like neoprene, 3D mesh fabrics reinforce this line ultra-feminine, elegant and with streetwear inspirations.

And now PVC confirms the contemporary and avant-garde look of Adeline Ziliox's Spring/Summer 2019 collection.

All photos by GREG ALEXANDER

French frou-frou thrills. Roger Vivier: Spring/Summer 2019 Presentation During Paris Fashion Week

Feminine, chic, elegant.  So thrillingly French. What’s not to like even for the woman who has everything; there’s always room for more footwear and frou-frou fun, if they are as desirable as  Gherardo Felloni’s new Spring/Summer 2019 Collection for the luxury Parisian footwear and accessories brand  Roger Vivier.

The new collection presented during Paris Fashion Week a few days ago is a “cinematic homage to Parisian Distinction”. 

Under the banner of Hotel Vivier, it is indeed an ode to women, carrying the essence of the brand in all their diversity and beauty, that started with a journey of exploration into the archives of the Maison, to inspire a new creative vocabulary for the Vivier woman.

Note the sparkle of the bejewelled buckles, the strategically placed feather, the ornate bows and the folds of the rose, from slippers to the kitten heel, the gamut of jewel and candy colours, and the matching or mix-and-match handbags.

According to Gherardo Felloni the creative director of the Parisian brand, women are like flowers in a garden - romantic but sometimes abandoned – where many varieties have taken their rightful place, in freedom.

But equally enticing for the modern woman are the sneakers and handy cute knapsacks that receive the same feminine treatment.  That very imagination and rich variety of women are at the heart of a living and breathing world for the presentation of the collection.

“Hotel Vivier is a place like no other, where women reveal all the richness, complexity, beauty and intensity of their personalities. Just as I went on a journey of discovery over the years to capture their many facets, my guests will make their own discoveries at every turn and inside every room, meeting the characters who inspire me every day.”  – Gherardo Felloni

Stepping through the doors of the ‘Hotel Vivier’ is like walking into a sequence of scenes from a film. At the intersection of fiction and reality, the experience feels both familiar and unexpected. It is a fascinating place where visitors are invited to discover the world of Roger Vivier.

According to their press release, Gherardo Felloni creative director of Roger Vivier believes that the essence of Roger Vivier can be distilled into three fundamental pillars: silhouette, colour and exclusivity.

Each one is articulated in new ways. The distinctive silhouette is enhanced by a low kitten heel creating a modern look with couture flair. When it comes to colour, Felloni never shies away from it. The rich colour palette carried through the collection is not just a bold style statement, it is a powerful vehicle to project the joie-de-vivre and positivity that have always been part of Roger Vivier’s DNA.

Exclusivity, the final essential ingredient articulated by the designer in his collection is a nod to Monsieur Vivier’s creations, unique works of art commissioned for special occasions that showcased exceptional craftsmanship, unbridled creativity, elaborate shoes embellished with feathers, crystals, knotted threads.

At the heart of the collection, the Très Vivier creations continue a long tradition of unapologetic elegance, displaying the same head-turning qualities as the legendary pumps that took the fashion world by storm in the 1960s.

The large square buckle in polished metal pays tribute to the aesthetics of the original pump, while a myriad of materials and textures brings Vivier sophistication, and the new Très Vivier bag with an oversized buckle is designed to be perfectly paired with the pumps.

The Très Vivier Strass Pump

All photos by Francois Durand/Getty Images For Roger Vivier - taken at the Roger Vivier Presentation Spring/Summer 2019 during Paris Fashion Week on September 27, 2018 in Paris, France. (Photos 

British Fashion Council Launches China Partnerships Strategy in Shanghai with Ambassadorial President David Beckham

What has David Beckham been up to in Shanghai this week?
For one thing, he's been helping the British fashion industry to break into the vast Chinese market.
So Victoria is not the only one with global fashion credentials in the Beckham camp these days.

In his new role as the British Fashion Council’s (BFC) Ambassadorial President, David Beckham has launched the organisation’s China Partnerships Strategy supported by Stephanie Phair, BFC Chair; Dylan Jones, BFC Chair of Menswear and Caroline Rush, BFC Chief Executive.

The strategy was launched at a lunch attended by existing and potential new key partners, invited by the BFC and Mr Beckham. Guests included Xia Ding, President of JD International Fashion; Paul David Haouzi, President & Executive Director Trinity Group; Claire Chung, China General Manager Yoox Net-A-Porter, Patrick Tsang, Chairman Tsang Group and Judy Liu, Managing Director China Farfetch.

The lunch, hosted at The Middle House Shanghai confirmed £500,000 worth of deals including JD.com and Ruyi’s co-sponsorship of the BFC/GQ Designer Menswear Fund, JD.com’s support for the BFC/Vogue Designer Fashion Fund and support from Britain’s Department of International Trade.  In addition to deals done, the BFC continue to explore the next stage of their innovative partnership with VIP.com and their long-term partnership with Fung Retailing Group.

The development of the BFC’s China Fashion Business Network is a key pillar of development for the next 12 months, and many attendees at the lunch pledged their support to assist the BFC create a network of credible partners across investment, licensing, manufacturing, property, communications and retail in China.  As Stephanie Phair, BFC Chair commented: “China has always been a key market for British designers, from emerging businesses to established brands. There is a growing appetite for British fashion in China."

David Beckham, BFC Ambassadorial President said: “Promoting the British fashion industry in China is an important part of my new role with the British Fashion Council. I hope that through events like today we are able to shine a light on the incredible creative talent we have in the UK and promote that talent on a global scale. The opportunity in China for connecting creatively and driving investment into British fashion is huge. Today we are able to show real commitment from Chinese businesses to future fashion leaders in the UK and in parallel, share our experience, knowledge and platforms with emerging Chinese designers.”

The BFC’s China Partnerships Strategy is focused on three key areas and solidifies the organisation’s commitment to making access to the Chinese market easier for British designer businesses: 

Support for emerging talent with mentoring on the Chinese market Partnerships of Fashion Weeks; stimulating demand through content and access, in relevant cases supplying that demand through retail partnerships in the UK and China.Network development of investors, creatives, influencers, media, retailers and high-net worth individuals to partner with British designer businesses on local growth strategies.

At the lunch hosted by BFC Ambassadorial President David Beckham at The Middle House Shanghai, a Memorandum of Understanding was signed by Dylan Jones, BFC Chair of Menswear and Editor of British GQ, Caroline Rush, BFC Chief Executive, Xia Ding, President of JD International Fashion and Francis Srun, Executive President of Ruyi International Group that confirms funding, mentorship and additional opportunities to develop partnerships for the shortlisted designers into China.

Xia Ding, President of JD International Fashion said: “The UK is now increasingly recognized by Chinese people as a global fashion centre and JD is proud to serve as the most convenient channel for British designers to reach China’s many discerning fashion consumers.”

Francis Srun, Executive President of Ruyi International Group commented: “Aside from a range of joint initiatives in offline retail and e-commerce, Ruyi’s extensive collection of global brands are already working closely with JD and we are confident that this network will give a strong boost to designers supported by the BFC/GQ Designer Menswear Fund.”

The BFC/GQ Designer Menswear Fund is the UK’s biggest menswear prize for emerging talent.  The prize was established in September 2013 following the success of the BFC/Vogue Designer Fashion Fund providing one designer with a £150,000 grant to provide necessary infrastructure to take them to the next stage of their business and significant value in kind services as part of a bespoke, high level mentoring support programme over a twelve-month period.

Craig Green for Moncler, unveiled in Milan for 2018-19.

Dylan Jones, BFC Menswear Chair and Editor of British GQ, commented: “We are delighted to re-instate the BFC/GQ Designer Menswear Fund thanks to JD.com Inc. and Ruyi who have committed to two years of support for our brilliant emerging menswear designers.

The last British designer to win the BFC/GQ Designer Menswear Fund was Craig Green, a talent and business that has gone from strength to strength.”

Rado announces the winner of Rado Star Prize UK

David Knowles named winner of the Rado Star Prize UK

The various shows and events including designjunction that marked this September’s London Design Week have come to a close but for one designer, his design journey continues after winning a prestigious prize from the Swiss watch maker Rado.

This year, a panel of distinguished judges have awarded the second edition of the Rado Star Prize UK to David Knowles who impressed the judges with his entry “GC18” – a coffee table inspired  by  the   Giant’s Causeway in Northern Ireland, a unique landscape of stunning natural beauty. 

The inspiring place features interlocking hexagonal columns of ancient black basalt staggering out of the ocean, forging a majestic pathway of multi-faceted levels.

Knowles’ GC18   coffee  table responds  to  that landscape’s  aesthetic elements resulting in a furniture piece that is tactile, intriguing and thought-provoking; consequently inspiring mindfulness. 

“It has been a great opportunity to showcase my design at Rado Star Prize UK.  I am honoured to  win  the award, especially to have been judged by a panel I admire  so much.  I hope  this  will  be  the  start  of  setting  up  my  design  career”  comments David Knowles,  winner  of  Rado  Star  Prize  UK  2018. 

Knowles, a  3D  Design  student  from Northumbria University received £5,000 and a True Thinline Plasma as a prize for his winning project. GC18 was selected from a shortlist of ten designs, with each entry responding  to  the  theme  ‘On  Time/Time  Off’.

David Knowle, left, with Hakim El Kadiri, Bethan Gray
and Will Sorrell.

 The  theme  explores  the  concept  of passing  time,  enriching  life,  and  products  that  enhance  user’s  awareness  of  where they spend their time. 

Rado CEO Matthias Breschan commented: “The creativity and thought present in this year’s Rado Star Prize UK entries is very impressive. I am pleased that Rado can help to promote the work of young designers such as David, the Rado Star Prize UK is a great example of Rado’s continued dedication to design.” 

“This  second  edition  of  the  Rado  Star  Prize  UK  has  challenged  the  judges  with  a fantastic selection of projects.” commented designjunction Event Director, Will Sorrell.  The stellar line-up of judges who selected the winner included award-winning designer Bethan Gray; Head of Design at John Lewis Philippa Prinsloo; Vice President of Product Management at Rado Hakim El Kadiri; Founder of Arts Thread Katie Dominy and designjunction Event Director Will Sorrell. 

LONDON show ROOMS Paris at TRANOÏ WEEK / SS19

LONDON show ROOMS Paris at TRANOÏ WEEK  for the Spring/Summer 2019  season opens on Wednesday 26th September until Tuesday 2nd October 2018 at a New Venue: 22 rue de la Roquette, 75011 Paris, France
Hours: 10.00 – 19.00 (closing at 18.00 on 02.10.18)

Here are the fashion designers showing there: -
Alighieri | BITE | CAMILLA DAMKJAER | Edeline Lee | Eudon Choi | ISOSCELES
Luna Del Pinal | Marta Jakubowski | NABIL NAYAL | PHOEBE ENGLISH | Räthel & Wolf
Roberta Einer | Sabry Marouf | Supriya Lele
Fashion East: ART SCHOOL | ASAI | Yuhan Wang

Textile and leather companies won top prizes from the industry they serve

Italian wool mill Marini Industrie has won the PV Fabrics Grand Jury Prize 2018 at this September’s PV Awards held during the prestigious Premiere Vision group of trade fair in Paris specifically for global experts and professionals from the textile, garment and fashion industries.

Head judge – the talented Belgian designer Olivier Theyskens – commanded the Prato-based Marini for producing “the most outstanding, symbolic and pertinent fabric of the season.”

In the same event, the PV Leather Grand Jury Prize 2018 went to FC Creacio I Innovacio of Spain, for offering “the most exceptional, symbolic and pertinent leather of the season.”
The Spanish company also won the PV Leather Fashion Smart Creation Prize 2018.

The prize presentation ceremony celebrated the 10-year anniversary of the awards which were created in 2008 to highlight the most creative and innovative work of companies exhibiting at Première Vision Paris from the leather and fabric industries.

Witnessing the event held on 19th September at Parc des Exposition were influencers, movers and shakers of the whole fashion industry -weavers, tanners, designers, buyers, as well as international journalists, who congregated at the Forum PV Perspectives (Hall 5) observing eagerly to discover the winners of the 8 prizes of the 10th PV Awards, and to celebrate textile and leather excellence.

To select the products to be awarded, influential personalities from the international fashion scene responded to Première Vision's invitation and submitted their new developments to an exceptional jury headed by Olivier Theyskens who, after having successfully shaped the destinies of Rochas, Nina Ricci and Theory, has made his re-entry on the Paris stage with his own eponymous label in 2016.

Here is the full list of the 2018 WINNERS:

THE 4 PRIZES FOR PREMIÈRE VISION FABRICS

• The PV Fabrics Grand Jury Prize 2018 goes to Marini Industrie (Italy) for the most outstanding, symbolic and pertinent fabric of the season.

• The PV Fabrics Handle Prize 2018 goes to Texlover (Italy) for the fabric allying the most astonishing tactile and behavioural qualities, the fabric that touches the emotions.

• The PV Fabrics Imagination Prize 2018 goes to Stylem – Zen Kiwami (Japan) for the boldest, most original, most amazing fabric in terms of decoration, technique, finishing, innovation or technology.

• The PV Fabrics Fashion Smart Creation Prize 2018 goes to Toray Industrie (Japan) for the most creative responsible fabric.

The 4 PRIZES FOR PREMIÈRE VISION LEATHER

• The PV Leather Grand Jury Prize 2018 goes to FC Creacio I Innovacio (Spain) for the most exceptional, symbolic and pertinent leather of the season.

• The PV Leather Handle Prize 2018 goes to Naturca By Aysen Butik (Turkey) for the leather combining the most amazing tactile and behavioural qualities, the leather that touches the emotions.

• The PV Leather Imagination Prize 2018 goes to Ckd Cetinkaya (Turkey) for the most daring, original and amazing leather in terms of decoration, technique, finishing, innovation or technology.

• The PV Leather Fashion Smart Creation Prize 2018 goes to FC Creacio I Innovacio (Spain) for the most creative responsible leather

All photos © Lucia Carpio 2018

Recycled Cashmere and Velvet from recycled polyester for H&M’s new Conscious Exclusive Collection

This autumn, H&M is launching its debut Conscious Exclusive A/W 2018 collection showcasing a range of sustainable fabrics, including recycled cashmere and velvet made from recycled polyester.  The Conscious Exclusive A/W 2018 is available online 

from 27 September on hm.com.

Inspired by a lost fragment of an ancient tapestry, the collection merges the life and journey of lost historical artefacts with the latest in sustainable fabric innovation, proposing dramatic yet romantic silhouettes and a modern edge.

“The Autumn/Winter collection of Conscious Exclusive started with a desire to create a statement coat in a sustainable material that could be worn for both those special occasions and day-to-day life, but then evolved into something more substantial by merging the journey of historical artefacts with a modern design sensibility,” says Ann-Sofie Johansson, Creative Advisor at H&M.

"Fabrics in this collection, like recycled cashmere, the new velvet made from recycled polyester as well as the use of leftover ECONYL® from the previous collection.  In addition, organic silks and cottons are used.  The quality and textures not only complement the designs but highlight the fabric innovation that H&M is closely involved with. The velvet, for instance, has taken years to develop in order to create a high enough calibre that we were happy with,”  says Cecilia Brännsten, Environmental Sustainability Manager at H&M group.

In addition to women’s ready-to-wear, the range includes lingerie, shoes and accessories that balance drama with sophistication, allowing the modern pieces to be worn for party season, but also for more laidback yet luxurious-feeling days.

Key items include a sweeping full-length black coat with an oversized collar and striking waist-high side slits made from a recycled wool blend, and an all-over sequinned flower jacket made from recycled PET bottles, while the long printed dress with voluminous sleeves and deep v back in 100% organic silk will also turn heads.

Overall, the colour palette consists of black, off-white, dusty rose pink, mustard yellow, dusty blues and a touch of light grey.

Accessories include sculptural earrings made from recycled plastic, black sock booties made from recycled polyester and slingback stilettos with ribbons made from recycled polyester and TENCEL™, a large printed scarf with long fringes in a TENCEL™ blend, a black shoulder piece with recycled velvet circles attached to long ribbons and a black sequinned hoodie.