Kris van Assche of Dior Homme reflects on the house know-how at Paris Fashion Week

Kris van Assche marks his ten years at Dior Homme by shining the spotlight onto the fashion houses' technical know-how championed by its workshop located at 3, Rue de Marignan in the 8th arrondisement of Paris.

His reflections on the process and proportions form the basis of the Spring/summer 2018 collection, highlighting the learned deconstruction and then the reconstruction of the Dior Homme costume this creating impeccably controlled volume effects.

While the designer harks back to the house's traditions, he manages to produce a collection proposing a feeling of innocence emanating from a summer atmosphere, and resulting in a fusion of sportswear and tailoring.

Carved in black wool ottoman, a sculpted and close-fitting blazer inspires many variations, becoming in turn a long summer coat, a jacket without back or sleeves, and a tailcoat. The base of a Dior man jacket is cut to turn into a polo shirt or shirt, or attached directly to the waist of a wide pants creating an urban trompe l'oeil.

As an echo in the transition to adulthood, college details merge with the basics of tailoring: a jacket with bomber sleeves, a logo emblazoned with laurel branches printed on a sweater, or mesh with argyle patterns worn with naive Gothic jewellery.

Mounting points and stitching are used as ornaments, while a monochromatic ribbon displaying the workshop address appears along with the workshop logo, in detail on hooded coats and on the Bags in grained nappa leather.

Ribbed edges and sportswear stripes are among the other key details.

Drawn portraits, hooded silhouettes and dark orchids bring touches of cyan and yellow to a palette worn by vermilion red, burgundy, camel and sky blue.

Pictures courtesy of Dior.

Punk goes on a Hawaiian Getaway - Dsquared2 Men's and Womenswear Spring Summer 2018 Collection

The guys and dolls of next summer have a penchant for leather, according to Dean and Dan Caten of Dsquared2, but with a twist.
Imagine this scenario:  The punk rocker takes a Hawaiian holiday, returns to join the Boys Scouts, then goes to the Proms.  That sums up the multi-persona of the Spring Summer 2018 collection shown by Dsquared2 a couple of weeks ago at Milan Fashion Week.


While the designers exploit the 50s silhouettes, the look is given an edgy take where biker leather trousers and calf-hair leopard-spotted jackets are teamed with Hawaiian prints on shorts, shirts and denim jackets, displaying a curious eclectic mix of different genres, crossing different paths.

Slick black 50s pieces are contrasted with denim and pastel in a wardrobe destined for a quick city-break.  An oversized leather cardigan is worn on top of a bonded double face leather polo with stripes, gossamer fine tulle sleeveless t-shirts are trimmed with ruffles. A satin bomber jacket shimmers, from its colourful floral design defined in tonal sequins - the sleeves profiled in a row of the same western buckles on the boots. Sweatshirts feature soft leather sleeves.

Then riding on a boys-scout outing theme, the look is enhanced with embroidery patches appliqued on cotton drill shirts.  But the edgy touch by way of a punk-rocker continues.

A parallel theme runs in the womenswear range, with Hawaiian prints on soft leather jeans, jackets and miniskirts, worn with slouchy biker jackets. Flirty full tulle skirts and dresses are covered in transparent plastic. The western style buckles from the men's boots trim a zip-up bodice dress, appear in rows on jackets and sweatshirts and at the top of the hybrid bootie that melds a buckled goth boot with a flip flop.

Floaty long tulle skirts are swathed in ruffles. Multi-dimensional flowers are attached to black ribbons for chokers and bracelets.

A series of pastel shade 50s style prom tuxedos featuring rows of ruffles on shirts and coordinating neck ties and ribbons.

Image Source : Dsquared2 supported by info from beautypress.com

Big Cat spotted at the Art & Antiques Fair, London - on show till 2 July

Making an impact at the Art & Antiques Fair currently held this week at London Olympia until 2 July is this giant sculpture of a cat made in resin.

Fibula - The Big Cat (limited edition) by LOLEK measures H222 x 250 x 110 cm Resin 1/8
represented by Paris Art Web.

Photo 

© Lucia Carpio 2017 

It is one of the highlights brought to the capital by the critically acclaimed Chicago-based show, The Sculptural Objects Functional Art and Design Fair (SOFA), taking up an area dedicated to celebrating contemporary three-dimensional art and design.

The Big Cat at the Gallery level at Olympia London.  In the background is a selection of modern artwork on show from Signet Contemporary Art.

Fibula - The Big Cat is by French artist Lolek (Laurent Wilga Lerat ) who was born in Paris in 1984.
Cats, abstract animals and people are often the subjects of his art work, some of which are also on show at the fair in the Paris Art Web stand up on the Gallery level.

A more user-friendly size would be this Groovies Cat in Bronze measuring H51 x 74 x 35 cm.

An eclectic mix of pieces drawn from antiquity to the present day are drawing art enthusiasts and collectors. Equally enticing are original sketches, modern pop culture art and luxury designs that integrate art with architecture and interior design, including furniture, glassware, ceramics, mirrors, lighting, art, clocks, rugs, tapestries, jewellery, silverware and sculpture.






















All photos © Lucia Carpio 2017 

Pure Versace SS18 – fresh attitude, easy energy and a passion

Milan Fashion Week Spring-Summer 2018: Versace

“This collection is like a homecoming. It’s about the passions that define Versace, the complexity of men, the energy of today.” Donatella Versace

Tailoring along with strong prints, silk shirts, tracksuits, biker jackets and bombers, parachute trousers and trench coats -  they are all there in Versace's SS2018 Collection shown at Milan Fashion Week, pulled together by the label's fresh attitude, easy energy and a passion that runs deep in the new collection.

Pinstripes are refreshed and remixed:  strong-shouldered tailoring, and shirts where different pinstripes are contrasted and clashed.

The new power of Versace prints: the utility of a tech blouson is contrasted with the romance of its “Balletto” print, while the “Angelo” print appears on a sharp quilted bomber.

Versace silk shirts are made modern, with two shirts cut up and combined, or the optical print shirt cropped to just show above the waist of black silk utility shorts.

Knits are playful, like the cotton knit red twinsets with a bead and crystal crown embellishment, or diagonal cut knits that add dynamism to the layers.   Biker jackets and pants are given unexpected softness in black silk, complete with quilted padding.

Silk pyjamas are the perfect luxury for day. A classic Versace logo looks totally new, embroidered in white stitches on a baby blue or pale pink T-shirt, worn with matching straight leg jeans.

Parachute pants have zips at the side for a volume that’s then gathered by drawstrings, while utility blousons have lattice lacing on the sleeves.

Leather trench coats are created from intricate patchworks of leather squares, the corners held as if by a bolt. They come in black or black-and-white check.

On the other hand, sports influences play their part.
Baby pink tracksuits are in cotton velour textured with a baroque jacquard, while stonewash denim jackets are cut and patchworked with Versace denim prints. Metal chains stitched through tailoring create an eloquent evening take on the pinstripe. The “Cornice” print appears on a sharply tailored silk blazer.

A special Womenswear capsule collection shows the unity of the Versace world: pinstripes, cut-and-clashed prints, rich embroideries. 

Discover more at: www.versace.com

Spring Summer 2018 Menswear - The Arthur Avellano way.

Arthur Avellano introduces his Spring/Summer 2018 menswear collection in latex and leather plus a hose of materials to convey a message of insolence.

This was Arthur Avellan's first fashion show during Paris Fashion Week.  Entitled Chute Libre, Arthur is inspired by films of Joël Schumacher (who commands a cult following,) "telling the story of a man who is
disconnected from the pretense of modern society, fascinated by the inherent slippage of the pressure of the social mask which muzzles our impulses".

Similarly, Arthur puts into perspective the subjects associated with fetishism:
latex, leather, spandex and transposes them into modern menswear featuring basics pieces based on sportswear as well as tailoring.

The 25-year-old Paris-based designer says he wants to bring his unique take on men's dressing, riding on the margins of the androgynous movement, applying a certain elegance to menswear.

It is in his use of latex that is inspiring.

In collaboration with specialized laboratories, Arthur injects originality into his brand thanks to an innovative textile research by developing a unique material, a hybrid latex with properties close to leather in look and texture, its drape and its unique reflection.  While using latex as if it is leather, he also combines it with neoprene for a "sensorial" look.

After studying at the prestigious Ecole Supérieure des Beux Arts in Toulouse and doing a training at the school of Le Chambre Syndicale, Arthur Avellano integrates the Atelier Chardon Savard.

In 2015, his graduate collection the FEAST OF TRIMALCHIO attracted wide acclaim and was  awarded Best graduate collection at the Who's Next trade fair.

Artthur Avellano has also been invited to participate in fashion weeks in New York, Milan and Vietnam.  In 2016 Arthur created his workshop, launched his eponymous brand and collaborated
with other labels, among them Neith Nyer.

All images from Autrement PR

Turning excess fabrics into sartorial luxury

British menswear brand SIR PLUS uses surplus menswear fabrics and crafts them into tailored pieces that suits formal as well as smart casual occasions.

It all started when the founder Henry Hales, noticed excess materials let out on the streets whilst walking down Jermyn St. - the London street famous for sartorial flare.

He soon decided he could use this surplus fabric to make boxers.

From this sustainable approach, the once only boxer brand is now offering collections ranging from casual to formal wear as well as various accessories.

Now, SIR PLUS sources from the UK and Europe, buying the finest surplus fabrics to make their products.

The key pieces include the Nehru Waistcoats and Jackets, featuring the distinctive mandarin collar inspired by the Indian Prime Minister Jawaharlal Nehru. The outerwear assortment is a selection of different jackets, from the utility, workman, and cotton gilet, which is a sleeveless spin on the classic bomber.

The formal wear collection, perfect for Royal Ascot and weddings, features both double and single-breasted waistcoats that come in an array of colours, some having the options of a piping finish. The new pale blue & pink waistcoats have become the most popular this season, due to customer demand, says the brand. To finish, SIR PLUS offers a range of formal trousers available in both a herringbone and a pinstripe design.

Glamping in style in bell-shaped tents

With such wonderful weather afforded by a heat wave currently in the UK, there is no need to travel to foreign lands to have an enjoyable vacation, especially if you can maximise the warm weather and be at one with nature.  And if you love the idea of camping in the great outdoors but do not fancy sleeping rough in a cramped tent, Boutique Camping has the answer for "glamping" enthusiasts.

The range of Sandstone bell tents makes camping feel more like staying a luxury hotel while having all the comfort of home.  Available in three sizes – 4m, 5m and 6m – they are the perfect size for couples after a luxury outdoor haven.  However, the largest 6m tent can sleep up to eight adults comfortably on airbeds, giving this tent the feel of a luxurious open-plan bedroom, which is great for festivals or glamping slumber parties.

Made from 100% natural, breathable cotton canvas, the  Sandstone bell tents are also mould and rot proof, and water-repellent. And just in case the weather does turn, there are extra-strong pegs tincluded in the pack to make the tent sturdy in windy weather and bad conditions!

Finished in the classic sandstone colour, these vintage-style bell tents can be assembled by one person, according to Boutique Camping, with everything needed for assembly included in the pack. They have also updated their design this year with a host of new features.
At the base, you’ll find a heavy-duty zipped-in ground sheet that gives you the option to unzip and roll up the sides while you lounge, letting the air flow in and around you. You’ll also be kept cool and comfortable thanks to the four zipped windows and air vents at the top.

But if you fancy traveling overseas for a bit of luxury camping, the National Geographic offers  a list of options.  Just don't call it Glamping.