Rest in Peace, Karl Lagerfeld!

Karl Lagerfeld was one of the greatest creative giants in the world of fashion.  When he wasn't able to attend the Chanel Haute Couture SS2019 show last month, news abound that the German couturier’s health was not in good form. We are very sad to learn that our dearest Karl, the Kaiser of the fashion world, described as fashion’s first global superstar designer, and Chanel's creative director for three decades,  has died today.  He was 85.

So grateful I had the opportunity to attend a couple of his Chanel shows in Paris and even visited Coco Chanel's Rue Cambon apartment.  I've always admire his forward thinking in leading the fashion world with elaborate staging of his catwalk shows .  I had also heard him talk in conferences.  He was a quick thinking, inspirational speaker, and is known for his outspoken controversial comments.  But if you were  King Karl, you would speak your mind too. 
Karl Lagerfeld, may you rest in peace.

Karl Lagerfeld's fashion and jewellery designs along with portraits of celebrities photographed by the designer himself were on display in the Mademoiselle Privé exhibition - a tribute to Coco Chanel - held at the Saatchi Gallery in London in 2015.
Photo by Lucia Carpio.

Edward Crutchley and Colovos are winners of the 2019 International Woolmark Prize

IWP picture.

Congratulations to UK fashion designer Edward Crutchley and Colovos (husband and wife duo Michael and Nicole Colovos) of New York who are the winners of the menswear and womenswear 2019 International Woolmark Prize, presented at Lindley Hall during London Fashion Week . Crutchley was also announced the winner of the Innovation Award, celebrating the most innovative or sustainable approach to systems production, materials, textile design or product design.

Both winners will each receive AU$200,000 to help support the development of their business, and will also receive ongoing industry mentor support, Woolmark certification for their winning collection and the opportunity to be stocked in some of the world’s most prestigious department stores and boutiques, including Boon The Shop, David Jones, Harvey Nichols, Hudson's Bay, Lane Crawford, LECLAIREUR, mytheresa.com, ORDRE, Parlour X and Takashimaya.

There were12 finalists at this year’s competition who were selected from more than 300 entrants.  The finalists came from all over the world, including ALBUS LUMEN – Australia; ANGEL CHEN – China; Brandon Maxwell – United States; CMMN SWDN – Sweden; Colovos – United States; DANIEL w. FLETCHER – United Kingdom; EDWARD CRUTCHLEY – United Kingdom; i-am-chen – Hong Kong; Nicholas Daley – United Kingdom; Willy Chavarria – United States; Yohei Ohno – Japan; and YOUSER – Korea.

The award was judged by a panel of top experts made up of the industry movers and shakers including Alber Elbaz, Tim Blanks, Laura Brown, Sinead Burke, Gwendoline Christie, Julie Davies, David Fischer, Colette Garnsey, Marc Goehring, Gert Jonkers, Floriane de Saint Pierre and Sara Sozzani Maino along with representatives from the International Woolmark Prize retail partner network.

The impact of Brexit on UK fashion and textiles industry strongly dependent on international trade.

Due to the United Kingdom's high level of exports, reliance on international talent, and dependence of raw materials from abroad, the UK textiles, apparel, and footwear industry will be one of the hardest hit by the UK leaving the European Union in March 2019, according to the industry highly dependent on international trade.

The British Fashion Council, which organises London Fashion Week, quite understandably
recently came out in support of a second Brexit vote to avoid a no-deal exit.
Photo © Lucia Carpio.

The British designer-cum political activist Katharine Hamnett's slogan T-shirts reflect the sentiment of many in the UK textile and fashion industry.  Words like "CANCEL BREXIT", "FASHION HATES BREXIT" and "SECOND REFERENDUM NOW" say it all.

According to a report by the UK Trade Policy Observatory, some 63 percent of clothing designers and 55 percent of UK-based luxury-goods makers are engaged in exports, and around 10,000 EU citizens are employed in the UK fashion industry.

British quality fabrics sought after in the global marketplace.
Photo © Lucia Carpio at Premiere Vision Paris.

At the Fashion Roundtable, a lobbying body of consultants formed to advise the UK government on matters relating to Brexit respondents, some 80 percent of respondents said that they felt Brexit would be bad for fashion in the UK and European Union. The prospect of Brexit has also started to affect fashion companies in other countries, particularly those being paid in sterling, which has fallen by around 12 percent against the euro and 10 percent against the dollar since the Brexit referendum in 2016.  Consultants at Fashion Roundtable found 96 percent of business leaders in the British industry voted to stayin the EU.

London Fashion Week is big deal for Britain's booming fashion industry, with revenues for women's ready-to-wear rising by 5.5 percent to 30.9 billion pounds in 2018, according to market analyst group Mintel.

However, uncertainty surrounding Brexit, due to take place on 29 March, is causing great concerns to designers and British fashion houses who fear leaving the EU without a deal could be catastrophic for the industry's exports.

"The industry is anxious and worried and uncertainty is never good for the mood of anyone, let alone an industry based on freedom of movement," Tamara Cincik, founder and CEO of consultancy firm Fashion Roundtable, told AFP.

"Retail is already dealing with huge losses to footfall on the high street with the growth of online sales outlets. No deal will mean that we are stuck at borders or goods won't get in."(AFP)

Fashion Scout presents unisex brand Tolu Coker while Anya Hindmarch hosts Weave Project among highlights at London Fashion Week

Fashion Scout Merit Award winner London-based Tolu Coker debuts today during this season's London Fashion Week, featuring her unisex (genderless) autumn/winter 2019 collection at the Freemason Hall.

A graduate from Central St Martins, Coker's designs centres around inclusivity, diversity and social responsibility.  This image above released by Fashion Scout says it all.

Meanwhile, handbag designer with an eco conscience Anya Hindmarch is hosting her Weave Project in the Brewer Street Car Park, London from February 16 - 19.  The art installation will celebrate the new Neeson collection featuring a giant and interactive neon-blue, hand-netted tube by artist collective Numen/For Use,.  Visitors can climb through to experience the installation from unexpected and surreal angles.

Red a key colour for SS 2020 at Premiere Vision Paris February 12 - 14 2019

All photos by Lucia Carpio in Paris.

Paris Spreading the Love of Shopping for the visiting Chinese Tourists

As Chinese communities around the world are still celebrating the Lunar New Year (from Feb 5 - 19 this year), Paris retailers are laying out the RED carpet, so to speak to appeal to tourists from the retail world's most prolific shoppers of the moment - the Chinese, who are visiting en masse during this auspicious time the City of Lights.  They are everywhere, from the hub of luxury shops, the celebrated Faubourg de St Honore to the city's iconic department store, the Galeries Lafayette.
Chinese will be celebrating their own special day for lovers on 19th February this year, the last day of the Year of the Pig new year celebrations.  And the language of choice for their endearing message?  Not their native French, but Chinese and English even. Happy Shopping everyone! Happy Valentine's Day!

All photos © Lucia Carpio February 2019 in  Paris.

Sportswear goes Green at Première Vision Manufacturing Feb 12 - 14 2019

As we become more health conscious and learn more on maintaining our overall well-being and engaging in appropriate sport activities, our demand for good reliable sportswear grows.

At the Première Vision trade fair in Paris opening on February 12th, specialist sportswear manufacturers are presenting their latest products to the industry in the Manufacturing sector.

Naia showcased a selection of sportswear made by its customers using Eastman Naia™ cellulosic yarn, a cellulose diacetate filament, at Première Vision Paris in September 2018.
Naia™ is responsibly sourced from sustainably managed pine and eucalyptus plantations, ensuring no deforestation. Eastman holds FSC® and PEFC™ Chain of Custody certification, and all wood pulp suppliers have FSC® and/or PEFC™ Chain of Custody as well.  Photo © Lucia Carpio.  

Bulgarian company Natalia is promoting technicity  which it advises goes hand-in-hand with sustainability: “This is currently our number one priority. We aim to include a sustainable approach at all stages of the production process, from the choice of material to the services via the manufacturing,” explained Tsveta Slavova, the sales director of Natalia, founded in 1926.  Present for the first time at Première Vision Manufacturing – Proximity, Hall 6, this vertically-integrated circular knitting company meets high social and ecological responsibility standards (Iso 14001 and 9001, Bsci, Step by Eco Tex, among others).

Natalia's range of knitwear come in simple jersey, interlock, flannel, piqué or ribbed knit is coloured using dyes free from azo colouring agents. Pattern printing is done using colorants and inks that are Eco Tex 100 certified. “Our primary market, Germany, attaches great importance to that requirement.”  Natalia produces tee-shirts, sweat shirts, jogging pants and polo shirts for Gerry Weber and Hallhuber in a lifestyle vein. Its expertise in the area of finishes – anti-pilling, antibacterial, fire resistant, reflective – has opened up new horizons. The company provides technical anti-transpiration tee-shirts to the German army. In all, its production capacity is approaching 150 000 knitted items per month.

At Triwool, the company is also working towards sustainable manufacturing. “Brands we work with, such as Zara or Marks & Spencer, now respect very strict codes of conduct,” said Sandra Costa, the quality manager.  To comply with its customers’ requirements, this Portuguese manufacture of circular knitted fabrics has working on obtaining two labels: Ocs (Organic Content Standard) and Rcs (Recycled Claim Standard). The first applies to organic materials, while the second concerns the monitoring of recycled primary materials throughout the entire production process.

The Athleisure line of its fellow Portuguese company, Soeiro, is also tending towards responsible production. The sweaters made by this Portuguese manufacturer, which produces 90,000 items per month, are now offered in lyocell and viscose. Its women’s jogging pants are knitted in a jersey certified “Renew prime”, using bi-elastic and recycled nylon fibres. “Our clients, which are mainly European, Canadian and American, are sensitive to primary materials that respect the environment and well-being,” notes Ana Oliveira, the sales director.

The same perception of the sector has been seen at another Portuguese company, Toddler: “The sportswear manufacturing market is growing, driven by a durable trend and the quest for “green” products. Today, holding Gots certification is practically compulsory,” explains Sérgio Santos, the company’s sales director. Toddler produces technical clothing for the outdoor, fitness and yoga sectors as well as the casual fashion sector. Its manufacturing process includes cutting-edge technologies: ultrasonic bonding, laser cut-outs and flatlock seams – which has contributed to its reputation.

PREMIERE VISION MANUFACTURING – PROXIMITY – HALL 6 - Parc des Expositions, Paris, France. February 12 - 14, 2019.