Textile and leather companies won top prizes from the industry they serve

Italian wool mill Marini Industrie has won the PV Fabrics Grand Jury Prize 2018 at this September’s PV Awards held during the prestigious Premiere Vision group of trade fair in Paris specifically for global experts and professionals from the textile, garment and fashion industries.

Head judge – the talented Belgian designer Olivier Theyskens – commanded the Prato-based Marini for producing “the most outstanding, symbolic and pertinent fabric of the season.”

In the same event, the PV Leather Grand Jury Prize 2018 went to FC Creacio I Innovacio of Spain, for offering “the most exceptional, symbolic and pertinent leather of the season.”
The Spanish company also won the PV Leather Fashion Smart Creation Prize 2018.

The prize presentation ceremony celebrated the 10-year anniversary of the awards which were created in 2008 to highlight the most creative and innovative work of companies exhibiting at Première Vision Paris from the leather and fabric industries.

Witnessing the event held on 19th September at Parc des Exposition were influencers, movers and shakers of the whole fashion industry -weavers, tanners, designers, buyers, as well as international journalists, who congregated at the Forum PV Perspectives (Hall 5) observing eagerly to discover the winners of the 8 prizes of the 10th PV Awards, and to celebrate textile and leather excellence.

To select the products to be awarded, influential personalities from the international fashion scene responded to Première Vision's invitation and submitted their new developments to an exceptional jury headed by Olivier Theyskens who, after having successfully shaped the destinies of Rochas, Nina Ricci and Theory, has made his re-entry on the Paris stage with his own eponymous label in 2016.

Here is the full list of the 2018 WINNERS:

THE 4 PRIZES FOR PREMIÈRE VISION FABRICS

• The PV Fabrics Grand Jury Prize 2018 goes to Marini Industrie (Italy) for the most outstanding, symbolic and pertinent fabric of the season.

• The PV Fabrics Handle Prize 2018 goes to Texlover (Italy) for the fabric allying the most astonishing tactile and behavioural qualities, the fabric that touches the emotions.

• The PV Fabrics Imagination Prize 2018 goes to Stylem – Zen Kiwami (Japan) for the boldest, most original, most amazing fabric in terms of decoration, technique, finishing, innovation or technology.

• The PV Fabrics Fashion Smart Creation Prize 2018 goes to Toray Industrie (Japan) for the most creative responsible fabric.

The 4 PRIZES FOR PREMIÈRE VISION LEATHER

• The PV Leather Grand Jury Prize 2018 goes to FC Creacio I Innovacio (Spain) for the most exceptional, symbolic and pertinent leather of the season.

• The PV Leather Handle Prize 2018 goes to Naturca By Aysen Butik (Turkey) for the leather combining the most amazing tactile and behavioural qualities, the leather that touches the emotions.

• The PV Leather Imagination Prize 2018 goes to Ckd Cetinkaya (Turkey) for the most daring, original and amazing leather in terms of decoration, technique, finishing, innovation or technology.

• The PV Leather Fashion Smart Creation Prize 2018 goes to FC Creacio I Innovacio (Spain) for the most creative responsible leather

All photos © Lucia Carpio 2018

Recycled Cashmere and Velvet from recycled polyester for H&M’s new Conscious Exclusive Collection

This autumn, H&M is launching its debut Conscious Exclusive A/W 2018 collection showcasing a range of sustainable fabrics, including recycled cashmere and velvet made from recycled polyester.  The Conscious Exclusive A/W 2018 is available online 

from 27 September on hm.com.

Inspired by a lost fragment of an ancient tapestry, the collection merges the life and journey of lost historical artefacts with the latest in sustainable fabric innovation, proposing dramatic yet romantic silhouettes and a modern edge.

“The Autumn/Winter collection of Conscious Exclusive started with a desire to create a statement coat in a sustainable material that could be worn for both those special occasions and day-to-day life, but then evolved into something more substantial by merging the journey of historical artefacts with a modern design sensibility,” says Ann-Sofie Johansson, Creative Advisor at H&M.

"Fabrics in this collection, like recycled cashmere, the new velvet made from recycled polyester as well as the use of leftover ECONYL® from the previous collection.  In addition, organic silks and cottons are used.  The quality and textures not only complement the designs but highlight the fabric innovation that H&M is closely involved with. The velvet, for instance, has taken years to develop in order to create a high enough calibre that we were happy with,”  says Cecilia Brännsten, Environmental Sustainability Manager at H&M group.

In addition to women’s ready-to-wear, the range includes lingerie, shoes and accessories that balance drama with sophistication, allowing the modern pieces to be worn for party season, but also for more laidback yet luxurious-feeling days.

Key items include a sweeping full-length black coat with an oversized collar and striking waist-high side slits made from a recycled wool blend, and an all-over sequinned flower jacket made from recycled PET bottles, while the long printed dress with voluminous sleeves and deep v back in 100% organic silk will also turn heads.

Overall, the colour palette consists of black, off-white, dusty rose pink, mustard yellow, dusty blues and a touch of light grey.

Accessories include sculptural earrings made from recycled plastic, black sock booties made from recycled polyester and slingback stilettos with ribbons made from recycled polyester and TENCEL™, a large printed scarf with long fringes in a TENCEL™ blend, a black shoulder piece with recycled velvet circles attached to long ribbons and a black sequinned hoodie.

Prints, Colours and Patterns at Decorex 2018

Above, top to bottom, Waves - Linwood fabrics and wallpaper; Deya Meadow by Matthew Williamson at Osbourne & Little; Studio Damask by Timorous Beasties.  All printed in the UK by John Marsh using Hewlett-Packard Latex Ink Technology.

Design by Annie Sloan's print and colour Specialist.

Photos © Lucia Carpio 2018

Tom Dixon unveiled new headquarters at The Coal Office, King's Cross, London

The Coal Office -  British designer Tom Dixon’s new headquarters - was unveiled during London Design Festival, with a breakfast reception at its new Restaurant on premises.

The Coal Office’s Gallery, Reception, Shop, Factory and Restaurant have been transformed into ELECTROANALOGUE exhibition spaces, showcasing a variation of digital interpretations.  Tom Dixon's latest interior products are showed off to great effect in the historical architecture of the Coal Drops Yard.


All Photos © Lucia Carpio 2018

Data Experts suggest UK Brands re-think strategy to celebrate the best of UK fashion

While London Fashion Week has put world focus on the best of UK fashion, data from customer relationship experts at Optimove suggests retailers should use the event to build long term relationships rather than focus on sales.

Photo © Lucia Carpio 2018

Optimove* data has found there is no dramatic change in online purchasing during Fashion Week, while also suggests that for most retailers the impact of sales will not be significant.  This is despite retailers try to drive a sales boost with ‘see now, buy now’ initiatives from brands such as Topshop and Burberry; or getting involved by sponsoring after-parties, pop-up shows and events.

Instead, Optimove said retailers should be focusing the development of long term relationships that can provide future value.

Pini Yakuel, founder and CEO of Optimove, comments: “Featuring in London Fashion Week is a great asset for many brands as it helps them to reach a wider audience.  However, focusing on boosting sales directly through showcasing at Fashion Week could quite possibly be a fashion ‘faux pas’. 

“Fashion is a passion industry: it brings together people with a shared love for style and design, and brands can utilise this to build a relationship with customers that lasts beyond Fashion Week. Simply aiming to sell more during this one week means that brands will miss out on connecting with customers and cultivating lasting brand loyalty and increasing customers’ lifetime value. 

“For the more valuable work of offering customers real value, brands need to communicate in an emotionally intelligent way.  Retailers should be able to identify a particularly fashion-forward customer and give them sneak peeks to an exclusive collection, access to limited editions or treat them to VIP/Concierge experiences, for example. 

Pini continues: “This means moving away from general demographic assumptions and towards segmentation based on behaviour analysis.  The data which helps brands to build up a fuller view of their customers is the most valuable thing to come out of London Fashion Week, because it can help retailers develop a relationship based on ongoing exchange of value.”

*Optimove is the Science-first Relationship Marketing Hub, used by over 300 customer-centric businesses to drive measurable growth by scaling customer engagement.

Textile experts to judge this year’s TexSelect Awards in Paris at Première Vision Designs

Helen Palmer, director of textiles, materials & knitwear at WGSN and her team at WGSN will be choosing a winner for a new award this year, the WGSN TexSelect Textiles of the Future Award.

“As Foundation Sponsors of TexSelect, we decided to do more for TexSelect and the young designers it supports, as well as raise awareness of the world-critical issue of sustainability. WGSN is all about the future and future creativity and helping to showcase upcoming talent, so this new award and everything it stands for is a perfect fit for us,” said Helen in an interview with TexSelect.

Separately Natasha Lenart of Victoria Beckham and Eda Karadogan of Ipekis are judging this year’s The Woolmark Company TexSelect Award.

“This is such a wonderful opportunity to encounter young designers with boundless creativity that hasn’t yet been influenced by the day-to-day of the working industry,” says Natasha Lenart, who is fabric and knitwear development manager at Victoria Beckham.
Eda Karadogan from historic Turkish company Ipekis is equally enthused: “I am excited to be judging The Woolmark Company TexSelect Award. It’s such a good way to discover new talent and to support them.”

The winner of The Woolmark Company TexSelect Award will receive £1,000 plus ongoing support from The Woolmark Company and opportunities to learn about developments.The Woolmark Company has supported TexSelect since the charity was founded more than 40 years ago, with the Award established in 2011. It recognises design excellence in fabrics created with 60% or more Merino wool, whether presented as printed, woven, knitted and/or mixed media fabric.

Other awards also to be announced on Thursday 20 September in the DESIGNS FACTORY area of Première Vision Designs, Hall 5, will include the Fashion Prize, Interiors Prize (donated by Clothworkers' Company), Pattern Prize (donated by Liberty London Fabrics), and Colour Prize (donated by mode...information and Pantone).

Also to be announced are the Marks & Spencer TexSelect Fashion Textile Award, and the Worshipful Company of Woolmen TexSelect Design Innovation Award for Wool in Interiors.

Elka's AW18 Sea Crew collection honours the heritage of the hard-working fishermen and sea crews of the North Sea.

The weather is turning and the north wind will soon start to blow and bite.  Spare a thought for those who bear the brunt of the cold when their work takes them out to the cold north sea.

I'm thinking of fishermen who throughout history have always mended their workwear with patches whilst at work in the harsh conditions of the rough seas. These patches bear testimony to years of fighting and working in often inhospitable conditions. These patches act as badges of honour and can signify the duration of one’s service.

Since the foundation of the brand Elka in 1958 one of their main objectives has been the outfitting and protection of Danish fishing fleets. Thus the Sea Crew collection is a reinterpretation of designs that have kept fishermen dry for 60 years.

Built with original 320g OEKO-TEX® standard 100 PVC fabric and high frequency welded seams Elka makes sure that every jacket from the Sea Crew collection meets the same exacting standards that we send to sea.

The original PVC collection has been the heart of our DNA since the company’s inception, and that the company takes pride in making clothing that is durable and waterproof enough to be worn by fishermen on the North Sea.

Handmade in their own factories since the beginning their materials are OEKO-TEX® certified and the Original PVC Collection still utilises their classic designs with bonded seams and raglan sleeves for maximum flexibility and waterproofing. After sixty years of sending these jackets out to sea the company declares proudly that their garments still stand up to the test every time.

Read in full on the Textile Innovations page.  Click HERE.