Happy Easter!

UK Easter gift spending expected to be worth £590m this year.  Brits top the global chocolate eating charts, according to Mintel .  Just Love these decorated Viennese-style chocolate eggs available at The Delaunay Counter.

Happy Easter everyone.  
Hope you’ll all be eating a lot of chocolates during the holidays, and rightfully so, you will be in good company.

According to Mintel Global New Products Database (GNPD), there has been a delicious 23% rise in Easter chocolate launches over the past year* providing a plethora of chocolate choice for Easter egg hunts across the globe.

The countries leading the way in Easter chocolate innovation include Brazil, which accounted for 11% of global Easter chocolate product launches in 2017, followed by the UK, South Africa, Germany (each with a 10% share) and France (9%).

However, it seems no one loves chocolate quite as much as the Brits across the globe. The average Brit devoured 8.4 kg worth of chocolate in 2017.  Hot on the heels of the Brits, Switzerland consumed 8.3kg, closely followed by Germany at 8.2kg.  Within the top 10 chocolate per capita consumers, Russia experienced the biggest increase at 2.2%; meanwhile, Austria reported the sharpest decline at -1.9%.

Reflecting the importance of seasonal products as a whole, in 2017, almost a quarter (23%) of global chocolate launches were positioned as seasonal, such as Christmas, Easter, Valentine’s Day and Halloween.

Overall, the US and Germany lead in terms of total chocolate new product development (NPD), each accounting for 8% of new product launches in 2017. This is followed by France (7%), the UK (5%) and Brazil (4%).

Marcia Mogelonsky, Director of Insight, Mintel Food and Drink, said:“Easter represents one of those ‘permissible indulgence’ moments where consumers enjoy giving and receiving chocolate treats. The holiday also marks a time for increased innovation in confectionery as consumers seek new and novel products. In the UK, for example, Easter eggs flavoured with beer or stout, which were the rage in past years, have given way to new alternatives such as gin-and-tonic flavoured eggs. In Germany, the introduction of vegan Easter bunnies and eggs reflects the growing popularity of a plant-based diet in that country.”

Tom Dixon among iconic British brands to set up flagship in Coal Drop Yard, King's Cross London

Coal Drop Yard on Granary Square, in the heart of the regenerated King’s Cross of London is deemed to be the most trendy shopping destination in the capital when it opens in October 2018.

In Victorian London, the capital was powered by coal, and Coal Drops Yard was its coal store, “designed to handle the eight million tonnes of coal delivered to the capital each year, these extraordinary structures were a feat of Victorian engineering,” according to the King’s Cross website.
Thanks to Heatherwick Studio, Coal Drops Yard has retailed its brick viaducts, cobbled streets and rich ironwork.
Photo © Lucia Carpio 2018.

King's Cross station. Photo © Lucia Carpio 2018

To-date, a number of leading British fashion and lifestyle brands and international luminaries have announced they will be moving or are setting up flagships there.

This April, internationally renowned British design brand Tom Dixon Studio will plant its latest and most ambitious flag yet, in the heart of King's Cross and will contribute to an ever expanding network of creatives and technologists from the likes of Central St. Martins and LVMH to Google and Spiritland.

Other notable British brands setting up retail there include Paul Smith , Lost Property of London, Cheaney, Form & Thread and Universal works, attracted to the cobbled street and Victorian red bricks of the industrial Coal Drop Yard, will is intermixed with contemporary architecture of the surrounding office blocks and desirable residential buildings.

Photo from Tom Dixon.

Against this industrial backdrop, The Coal Office will be Tom Dixon’s new home for its latest multi-disciplinary experiments, innovations and collaborations, functioning as a live Studio combining shop, workshop and office all under one roof, with the culinary delights of a brand-new restaurant and roof terrace.

A selection of the latest products by TOM DIXON.

Photo from Tom Dixon.

Tom Dixon says: 'For us it was imperative not just to find a new office or shop. It was vital to find a new home. London isn't just another city. It is where it all started. We will use these 17,500 square feet in this incredible location as a platform to broadcast our latest ideas in interior design, product innovation and experiments in food, functionality and future living.'

In Victorian London, the city was powered by coal, and Coal Drops Yard was its coal store, “designed to handle the eight million tonnes of coal delivered to the capital each year, these extraordinary structures were a feat of Victorian engineering,” according to the King’s Cross website.

Glorious lace at Christopher Kane's AW 2018-19 and from the House of Darquer in France

Lace has been part of European fashion for a very long time, and remains as relevant today as it was centuries ago.

Recently in the February 2018 edition of London Fashion Week, lace was featured profusely in British designer Christopher Kane’s Autumn/Winter 2018-19 collection.

Reflecting the interior strength of the Christopher Kane Girl with an external display of power, the collection evolved from last season to become less cheeky and more subversive this season.

“It's about strength of character shown by the strength of the clothes. It all started with the illustrations from The Joy of Sex and More Joy of Sex, by Chris Foss and Charles Raymond. They're both a textbook study and a sensuous display of line drawing, almost in 'coffee table book' form that's both weird and really everyday. All of which always intrigues me,” says the talented Christopher Kane.





Catwalk Source & Images from Christopher Kane



Meanwhile at the Premiere Vision Paris textile fair also in February, French lace house Darquer showcased their latest lace creations for the congregating fashion industry.  Designer Frédéric Ruminy’s latest on offer includes beautiful lace in two tones, also lace made with denim effect as well as lace in cotton blended with cashmere to lovely results.

The "Millennium" collections includes a selection of white & black lace designs, evocative of the heritage of Maison Darquer, while among its heritage are the highly sophisticated Chantilly lace that have stood the test of time.

Darquer was established in 1840 in Calais, and is the oldest and most renowned lace company in France. In this regard, it has an exceptional collection of lace samples of all styles and periods.

Today, Maison DARQUER is very much a modern company as it continues to develop a wide range of services to meet the needs of today's markets with a new “See now Buy Now” website for immediate delivery.

Maison DARQUER is very much a modern company as it continues to develop a wide range of services to meet the needs of today's markets with a new “See now Buy Now” website for designers to choose designs, place orders and for immediate delivery.

Darquer lace photos by Lucia Carpio.

Darquer opened its Paris showroom in 2017, in a former 18th century private mansion Hotel de Vibraye, classified as an historic monument, on 15 rue Vielle du Temple in the 4th arrondissement.

The showroom features the entire collection  of its famous 7 points Chantilly lace  as well as the novelties, Cornely, Beyroux and "hand made embroideries  ".  It is also possible for buyers and fashion designers to develop their own made to measure patterns using Dacquer designs as starting point.

Pictured right,  at the 2017 Cannes Film Festival, fashion model Sara Sampaio wears a sexy creation by  Francesco Scognamiglio realized with an  evanescsente lace from Maison Darquer.

Showroom and Cannes Film Festival photos from Dacquer.

SEAQUAL ™ - The fibre created from marine plastic waste

While products made of plastics have penetrated all areas of our lives, from toys to household and kitchen items to packaging and many, many more, today sadly, much of plastics are also found discarded in the sea or washed up on shores and beaches, and plastic pollution affects marine life, eco systems and even our health. 

While recent research reveals that plastic at sea turns into toxic fish food and harm marine life and the environment, plastics floating in the oceanic accumulation zones, known as ‘garbage patches’, carry chemical pollutants whose levels seem high enough to pose a health risk to organisms that ingest them.  It is also estimated that 8 million tonnes a year of detritus end up as sea sludge, 80% of which sinks to the bottom.

Recognising that urgent action is required quickly to tackle marine plastics pollution, a Spanish company of textile fibres has recently unveiled its commitments to initiate a new eco-friendly yarns called SEAQUAL ™ filament yarn made out of plastic waste retrieved from the ocean.

From plastic waste to filament yarns.
Photo © Lucia Carpio 2018

Seaqual 4U’s ingenious plan is to dredge then upcycle plastics from the bottom of the sea and turn them into fibres and yarns.  The company partners with some 400 fishing boats off Spanish coasts that help it to collect the plastic waste.

The company has thus set up a virtuous chain involving various stakeholders in the textile industry including spinners, weavers and brands.

To read in full, click HERE.

Roberto Cavalli Autumn/Winter 2018 interplays strength and fragility for women and men.

British designer Paul Surridge’s Autumn/Winter 2018 collection – his second for the Italian fashion house Roberto Cavalli - explores the interplay between men and women.

He explains in a recent interview before the catwalk show at Milan Fashion Week in February that the collection was inspired by Sharon Stone’s character, Catherine Tramell, in Basic Instinct, it is also a celebration of the timeless codes of Roberto Cavalli, featuring patterns borrowed from the animal world, including leopard prints and others derived from lynx, lizard and crocodile with furs and exotic skins.

While the silhouettes are emphatic, Surridge shows off his knack for tailoring with artfully cut jackets and coats and trousers for his and hers. 

Look for stretch wools, silks and clinging evening knit dresses with feather patterns in streamline silhouettes, contrasting with billowing chiffons, flirtatious drapes and transparent bouclé.

Denim becomes precious, keyed with embroidery or used as a palette for tailoring in fine wool or luxurious crocodile and python skins.

Other colours speak simultaneously of luxury and strength - violet, scarlet and graphic black.

With a strong focus on Italian artisanship, there are superlative working of leather, beading and embroideries and inspiration drawn from the ombréd surfaces of Murano glass, colouring chiffon dresses and tailored separates. An interplay between strength and fragility.

Menswear plays with the same codes - leathers, denims, animalier - but reinterpreted through a masculine idiom. Finely tailored overcoats combined with the sensuality of silky shirts and leather, atop a strongly-chiselled ankle-boot in polished leather or savage crocodile.

Information source and Images: Cavalli

Tactile leather and skins showcased at Premiere Vision Paris Leather Fair

So often we see signs to remind us not to touch any of the exhibits on display when we visit a gallery or exhibition.  But when you have materials that are provocative with interesting surfaces and novel textures, tactile encounters between exhibit and visitor should be encouraged.  And that was the case at the Premiere Vision Paris Leather Fair, February 12 – 14 at Villepinte, Parc des Expositions in Paris.

Cutting-edge leathers, suede and skins showcased at the trade fair revealed that leather trends for the Spring Summer 2019 fashion season combine ingenuity with clever and playful developments.

And what better way to explore the myriad of ingenue quality than by touching the materials to get a sense of the new novelties through touch.

Much of the new developments have been influenced by the animal kingdom, from python and crocodile skins to furry pelts, highlighting prints and embossed patterning, and shiny surfaces, giving fresh insights on contemporary creations.  

Photo © Lucia Carpio 2018

BRAND NEW Star Wars™ | Po-Zu footwear announced

Building on the successful launch of the Star Wars™ Po-Zu co-branded footwear collaboration last year,  British eco-footwear brand Po-Zu - known for their environmental and Vegan-friendly footwear made with ORGANIC cotton and Pinatex (PINEAPPLE leaf-fibre) - has announced the launch of their first  Spring – Summer 2018 footwear collection for women & men.

The new Star Wars™ Po-Zu co-branded range is expanded with the addition of a vegan-friendly ‘RESISTANCE Lo’ low-cut organic cotton canvas sneaker with a metal Rebel Alliance badge at the ankle and the famous Po-Zu Foot Mattress™ in sole for comfort.

Joining the sneaker range: the women’s SQUADRON slip-on, which features an elasticated top panel, metal Rebel Alliance badge and ribbed heel counter in metallic silver Pinatex with metallic linen, are lined with organic cotton and in tune with a huge VEGAN trend in footwear.  The full Star Wars™ | Po-Zu range includes many Vegan-friendly designs alongside traditional leather boots.

Sven Segel, Founder of Po-Zu, commented that he is thrilled to continue "with their galactic ride for the second season."  He said: “I was truly inspired by the Star Wars: The Last Jedi and the new characters – and love fusing sustainable materials into some of these timeless pieces."