New Wave Chinese Designers on World Stage and "Fashion China" Book launch

Fashion design talent of China are projecting their creativity on the world stage and a new book is published this month to coincide with an international fashion trade fair in Shanghai - the capital of forward fashion of China.

After a successful bout in London exhibiting as part of Fashion Scout at the Freemasons' Hall, a group of new wave Chinese fashion designers have decamped to Paris for two weeks in March, meeting buyers and press at different showcases, including at the Tranoi de la Bourse, Tranoi Carrousel du Louvre, Fashion Scout Paris and the Museum of Friendship at Touba L'annexe.

To kick start, the designers will be staging a "China New Wave" Showroom presentation from 3 - 5 March at the White Project Gallery at 24 rue St Claude in Paris.  They are Da Zhang, Xiao Li, Haizhen Wang, Angel Chen, Yirantian Guo, Tianmo Wang and Renli Su.

Design by Angel Chen featured as one of the ONES TO WATCH at Fashion Scout in February 2015.
Photo by Lucia Carpio for My Fashion Connect.

Coinciding with the showcase will be the launch of a new book called Fashion China authored by Gemma A Williams, on 4 March, also at the White Project Gallery.

Published by Thames & Hudson, Fashion China is reportedly the first highly-illustrated introduction to the contemporary Chinese fashion scene.

A showcase for a hotbed of design talent, featuring 41 brands and designers selected by the author together with a panel of industry insiders and experts.  Fashion China features over 350 illustrations that demonstrate why and how Chinese fashion is unique and cutting-edge - from opulent couture to avant-garde minimalism, and from bold patterning to street chic.

The book is also out in time to coincide with Chic 2015 International China fashion fair due to take place in Shanghai this month.

In her foreword, Chinese media powerhouse Hung Huang (television host, author, actress, the publisher of fashion magazine iLook and one of the most widely-read bloggers in China) champions the ambitions of Chinese fashion.  Author Gemma Williams features each designer's background in an interview format, revealing their training, inspirations, aspirations, outlook to design and life, as well as how they view their work in the context of the global fashion industry.

Long of great importance to the international luxury market, and renowned as a manufacturing base for western clothing brands,   Fashion China reflects China’s place on the world stage today and, in particular, it’s growing cultural and artistic confidence, and the coming of age of their design tour de force.

Many of the designers featured in the book trained at world-renowned fashion colleges (including Huishan Zhang, Uma Wang and Qiu Hao, who all trained at Central St Martins in London) and are at the vanguard of an increasingly globalised contemporary fashion industry, whilst also opening up Chinese culture to new audiences.

As supermodel Liu Wen puts it in the book, ‘fashion has always been about sharing art and culture and this book will be a great reflection of what China has to offer.’ Original, authoritative and ahead of the curve, Fashion China is an essential new must-read for design students, buyers, retailers and fashionistas everywhere.

Author

Gemma A. Williams is an Irish-born fashion curator and writer currently living in London. Her practice creates and promotes fashion narratives, with a particular emphasis on emerging fashion designers and markets. She has worked for Alexander McQueen, Modemuseum in Antwerp, Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York, London College of Fashion and the British Council.

Inspiring London venues for showcasing fashion design talent

Viewing new designer collections in inspiring London venues adds to the excitement and allure of the whole experience. 

Komodo

J.C Middlebrook

Belt by Black and Brown London

The Catwalk Edit event which took place at the start of this season’s London Fashion Week which finished last Thursday was once again staged at the historical Chelsea Old Town Hall on the celebrated King’s Road.  

Price Eco Design

It boasts of atmospheric event halls with original oil paintings, marble columns, chandeliers and marbled floors that form the perfect setting for the organisers to present some 60 brands and to stage eight catwalk shows during the one-day event.  

Against the grand setting, the atmosphere was kept casual and relaxed, with designer garment racks and display tables set up around a catwalk allowing visitors meet designers and view their new ranges in a unique atmosphere.

Founder of The Catwalk Edit, Joseph Bachman, comments “We are again pleased with the positive response from brands, retailers and press.  Our aim is to source great brands from around the world to kick-off LFW in style and for these talented designers’ to have an opportunity to showcase their collections in our fashion capital.”

Quoi Alexander

Fashion Scout presented a host of award-winning Ones to Watch and emerging designers at their habitual venue at the Freemasons’ Hallset on Great Queen Street between Covent Garden and Holborn.  In classic art deco style, Freemasons is the HQ of United Grand Lodge of England featuring imposing bronze doors weighing over one tonnes, and mosaic work on ceiling cove.  

Minju Kim - One To Watch

Angel Chen - One To Watch

James Kelly - Merit Award Winner

Robert Wun

Clio Pepplatt

Left and above, Minju Kim

This season, among the designers on show at Fashion Scout was Holly Jayne Smith presented by the British Council as seen below, showcasing her latest collection, a result of a one-month long stint last November in Casablanca hosted by the Moroccan Casa Moda Association  of Fashion Design.  Holly, a graduate of Birmingham City University, was winner of the Graduate Fashion Week International Residency Award in June 2014.

 

Inspired by the colours of Morocco, Holly Jayne Smith's new collection features Moroccan hand-made metal ornaments and rich brocade fabrics.

London-trained (Central St. Martin) Chinese designer Shao Yen had opted for the 260-year-old RSA House at John Adam Street as shown below.    RSA stands for the Royal Society for the Encouragement of Art Manufactures and Commerce. 

 The Great Room of the RSA shown above provided Georgian splendour to showcase Shao Yen’s team of models who stood on low pillars to allow visitors to preview the ensembles in close proximity.  Natural light filtered down from the domed glass ceiling illuminate the huge celebrated paintings including The Progress of Human Knowledge by James Barry, creating also an intimate setting.

Meanwhile the ME London Hotel on The Strand in the heart of the West End and two minutes from Somerset House was the venue chosen by a number of young designers and brands.

Above and below, Vielma's Dark Tales at the ME London Hotel 

Here at the main elegant semi-circular entrance of the contemporary cutting-edge hotel designed by Fosters and Partners was Vielma London’s Dark Tales AW15/16 collection.

All photos by Lucia Carpio for My Fashion Connect.

Marks and Spencer and Lulu Kennedy collaborate on new capsule collection

Marks and Spencer is launching an exclusive capsule collection by Fashion East and Lulu & Co founder Lulu Kennedy MBE for Indigo Collection, my favourite brand at M&S.

Thus I have high hopes for this new 19-piece range which will hit 33 selective stores across the UK from 15 May 2015, featuring denims, bright Caribbean colours, washed-out fabrics and a selection of global-inspired accessories.

M&S had previously featured Kennedy as one of the celebrities  in its 2014 "Leading Ladies" campaign and referred to Kennedy as the British fashion industry's "Fairy godmother" for her knack of taking unknown designers and turning them into fashion stars through her non-profit venture Fashion East that mentors young talent including launching the careers of Henry Holland, Simone Rocha and Jonathan Saunders.  They are now top stars at London Fashion Week.

Texworld Paris saw slight increase in visitor numbers

After four days of brisk business, Texworld Paris, encompassing its sister show Apparel Sourcing Paris, saw  another successful season for the textile fair held 9 - 12 February at the north Parisian suburb of Le Bourget.

Embroidery skills and young design talent were on show at Texworld.  
Photo courtesy of Texworld/Messe Frankfurt Paris. 

Under the title of "Presence", the fair presented fabric developments and new trends for Spring Summer 2016 from 626 exhibitors. 

A total of 13,639 visitors from 111 countries attended according to the organisers.

While France saw an increase of 13% in visitor numbers and the UK recorded a rise of 3%,   elsewhere in Europe, Italy, Portugal and Germany saw a slight fall, whilst Spain remained steady, supported by its numerous fashion brands.

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Eley Kishimoto unveils new designs for Southerden Patisserie and Cafe

Southerden Patisserie and Café designed by ELey Kishimoto and Studio MacLean

Having a great design environment to enjoy good food is one of the greatest pleasures of life.

London design duo Eley Kishimoto, well known for their pattern designs for fashion, lifestyle products and interiors, have fitted out a gourmet patisserie and cafe house in collaboration with long-term creative partner, Studio MacLean.  The newly-opened Southerden Patisserie and Cafe (at 72 Bermondsey Street, London, SE1 3UD)  is covered from floor to ceiling in a bold graphic Venice pattern from EK's new wallpaper collection (most recently unveiled at the Decorex interior trade fair held in London last September) and complemented by Studio MacLean’s technical lighting solution. 

The new Southerden Patisserie and Cafe, set in the beautiful heritage of Bermondsey Street, opposite the Fashion Textile Museum, is just a stone's throw away from the local landmark - the Shard building and is well placed among new restaurant openings and markets nearby.

Southerden Patisserie and Cafe offers a bespoke selection of delicacies (including salted caramel doughnuts), all served with Monmouth Coffee, specialty teas and Matcha beverages.

The Eley Kishimoto partnership was forged in the 1990s, starting in the fashion world with the launch of its first womenswear collection; this proved to be such a success that the company has continued to produce its own ELEY KISHIMOTO line ever since.  Their impressive credentials include working with Louis Vuitton, Marc Jacobs, Alexander McQueen, Alber Elbaz and Jil Sander, to name but a few.

Photos courtesy of Eley Kishimoto, by Chris Tubbs

Ghurka brand luggage launches in UK and supports Gurkha Welfare Trust

On March 16, 2015 American leather goods firm, Ghurka will launch its first international presence inside the famous Fortnum & Mason store in London’s St. James’s district. The opening marks the brand’s 40th anniversary and coincides with Gurkha 200, the 200th anniversary of Gurkha service to the British Crown.  The Ghurka curated space will feature a robust assortment of its daytime and travel goods, humidors, watch collector boxes and outdoor sporting items. Also available will be a selection of elegant accessories including wallets, pouches, and wash bags. 

The Ghurka collection will be showcased on Fortnum and Mason’s third floor
and displayed in fixtures that have been shipped from the Ghurka showroom in New York.

“Fortnum & Mason is the perfect partner for our European launch,” says Pam Bristow, Executive Vice President of Marketing and Brand Strategy at Ghurka. “The Piccadilly store is an international icon, a benchmark for excellence, and represents the commitment to quality we hold as our standard.”

Later this spring, Ghurka will debut their G200 Collection, a capsule assortment of three styles from the Ghurka archives re-imagined in partnership with The Gurkha Welfare Trust, Britain’s leading charity dedicated to providing support for impoverished ex-Gurkha servicemen and their dependants. The bag designs utilize the famous green wool used in Gurkha uniform jackets in place of the brand’s signature twill, and will be lined in red as a nod to the military flash worn by the soldiers. The range will be retailed exclusively at Fortnum & Mason in the UK, with 25% of all sales benefitting the Trust. Further to this, a bespoke “Officer’s Field Set” consisting of a picnic table, two field chairs, a green wool blanket, two pillows and a picnic umbrella – all created by Ghurka master furniture craftsman Richard Wrightman – will be debuted. These will be sold at auction with 100% of proceeds benefitting the Trust.

“We are delighted to form this new relationship with Ghurka, whose very name demonstrates their high regard for the ex-servicemen we support,” states Karen England, Director of Fundraising & Communications for The Gurkha Welfare Trust. “The quality of Ghurka’s products rivals the exceptional standards of Britain’s Gurkha soldiers, and through our partnership we hope to raise significant funds in support of elderly and infirm veterans in Nepal.” 

Première Vision Paris gathered some 58000 international visitors to view new offerings for SS2016.

Photo by Lucia Carpio for My Fashion Connect.

Première Vision Paris (previously known as Première Vision Pluriel) has evolved with the re-branding of all of its six inter-related sub-divisions of industry sectors.  Reporting high attendance of some 58,000 visitors from around the world, the organisers announced its latest edition a success.

The show was held at the exposition centre in Paris Villepente 10 – 12 February, where the presentation of colours, innovative textiles, accessories and creative designs, and related materials and leather for the Spring Summer 2016 season made an impression on the international audience.

Click HERE to read more.