BLOSSOM PREMIÈRE VISION had much to offer, though attendance hamperd by national strikes

It was a bit like organising the Christmas lunch.  A lot of hard work went into the preparation and all the ingredients were in place to ensure the success of the event, hoping that people would show up to enjoy all the fruits of lovelies laid out for all.  But somehow there were some unwelcome spoilers that made the occasion  challenging.

Organisers of the Blossom Premiere Vision show in Paris, which was held December 11 and 12 at the Carreau du Temple, had put all their strengths into showcasing the spring-summer 21 pre-collections of luxury materials from 120 luxury and high-end brands, 3.5% more than last year’s, but attendance dropped by some 20% compared to the December 2018 show, due to nationwide strikes in France.  Transport strikes and disrupted road, rail and air traffic prompted some of the show's pre-registered French and international visitors to postpone or curtail their visits.  

Nevertheless this December edition had followed several previous highly-successful editions marked by notably strong growth (+20% between December 2017 and 2018; +3.5% between July 2018 and 2019).

In total exhibiting this December were 82 weavers, 28 tanners and 8 makers of accessories and components.  A new Smart Creation conference dedicated to responsible fashion was reportedly successful, as it focused on consumer expectations in terms of sustainable fashion, and for the first time, a concrete decoding of the latest eco-responsible materials and highlights for each market were presented.

Visitorship was of extremely high-quality, despite a decline from the 1,100 attendees at the December 2018 event, said the organisers of Blossom Première Vision which welcomed 827 visitors, primarily from France (84% of visitors), Italy (9%), UK, Belgium, the Netherlands and Germany, on the hunt for exclusivities and high-end creativity to design and develop their spring-summer 21 pre-collections.

The lightness of summer gives weavers and tanners the opportunity to explore new combinations: added fluidity, fine knits, yarn blends, plays on transparency. Leathers are simpler and finer. Airy fabrics reveal subtle densities and handles.

Highlighted materials included vibrant light surfaces along with subtle radiance embellishment. From textile accessories to silkies, compositions create shines that are sometimes discreet, sometimes as palpable as plastic. Metallics are slipped into leathers. There were plays on transparency and cut-yarn motifs enlivening powdery, pearly fabrics.

The next Blossom Premiere Vision will feature the Autumn Winter 2022 season, and will take place July 1 & 2 2020 CARREAU DU TEMPLE, Paris.

Photos @Alex Gallosi / Blossom Premiere Vision

Inspiring hand-woven contemporary textiles enrich modern lives.

Thanks to modern technology, our daily life has become more efficient, and thus we should be left with more time to slow down and admire crafts that are lovingly made by hand.  As we wake up to the global crisis of throw-away plastics, hand-crafted home furnishing textiles remind us the joy of appreciating things that take time to make and indeed can last a long time.

At 100% Design trade fair in London, held in September at Olympia in Kensington, I met woven textile designer Pamela Print who had her weaving loom set up in her stand so she could demonstrate her craft.  She is the genius behind her wonderful hand-woven furnishing textile collection that included wall hangings, throws and cushions that she produces for her own brand.  

As a designer and weaver who is passionate about sustainability, Pamela Print is keen to demonstrate her eco credentials, as all her products are totally sustainable as her products are all in 100% wool.  

For example, the cushions front is made in merino lambswool and the back fabric  is in Harris Tweed while for the filling she uses eco-friendly British fleece (Dorset Horn.)

Pamela graduated from Central Saint Martins in London with a BA in Textile Design, and is an alumni of TexSelect (a London-based charity that nurtured and promoted UK textile graduates for some 50 years) through her career was launched 14 years ago after particpating at Premiere Vision trade fair in Paris.

Pamela worked for many years in textile and garment supply companies like Dewhirst and for top brands and retailers including Topshop and Marks & Spencer - before relocating to Brussels for seven years.  Recently she and family decided to move back to the UK.  

But Pamela has brought Brussels back with her through her geometric patterns that were inspired by architecture in Brussels with art deco influences.  But while on the loom, ideas are developed, she said.

With a studio set up outside London in the historical village of Writtle where her designs are developed and sampled, she has also got an agreement with Bristol Weaving Mill where small batches can be produced to order.

Also exhibiting at 100% Design was Lydia Forman, whose hand-woven upholstery fabric designs won her a place in the Design Fresh area of the trade fair held in September at Kensington Olympia in London.  

Lydia was one of 30 designers selected by curator Barbara Chandler, design editor of Homes & Property at the London Evening Standard, to showcase their breakthrough design talent. 

Lydia brings a vibrant modern aesthetic to complex traditional weaving skills, creating cushions, upholstery fabrics, hangings, and flatweave rugs in yarns that include cotton, silk and Lurex.   

She juxtaposes geometric structures with bright floral colours. Weights and textures are explored using different yarns and weaving techniques.

Inspiration ranges from the colours of Kew Gardens to the rigid repeating facades of contemporary architecture.  To showcase some of her colourful textile products was a vintage Ercol sofa and chair  at 100% Design which were covered in her fabrics.        

A graduate of Loughborough University this year with a BA degree in Textiles: Innovation and Design, specialising in Woven Textiles, Lydia Forman was also awarded First Prize in the 2019 Loughborough University Enterprise Award.

All photos by Lucia Carpio.

Première Vision Paris Organisers gearing up for February 2019 edition

Come this February, fashion, textiles and design professionals around the world as well as all interested in the latest technology in materials, garments and accessories, will be heading to Paris for another edition of Première Vision Paris.

Among highlights on the show programme will be new initiatives supporting young design talent, including the hosting of the finalists from the 34th Hyères Festival of Fashion, Photography and Fashion Accessories competition as well as a collaboration with young designer DAWEI - a 2018 and 2019 Designers Apartment talent – whose design will manifest as the show's hostesses’ outfits.  Dawei Sun is known for pairing his  Chinese roots with years of experience in Paris working with the likes of Balenciaga, John Galliano and Cacharel with an East meets West point-of-view.

Organisers for Première Vision Paris, due to take place 12 to 14 February at Parc des Expositions in Villepinte, north of Paris, advised that some 1,777 international exhibitors from 50 countries, including 161 new companies, will be on hand to showcase their latest and the most relevant on offer.

Organisers also revealed that the show will see an overall increase of 3% in exhibitor numbers, as compared to the February 2018 event.  As in previous events, the February show will be covering yarns, fabrics, leather, designs, accessories and manufacturing to meet the diverse needs of the respective industries.

Scheduled in the February edition will be the Third edition of the highly popular WEARABLE LAB platform, which is dedicated to Fashion Tech.  This year, the Augmented Man will be set up in partnership with the Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode to shed light on innovative materials, technologies and services. 

Spotlight will also be shed on exceptional artisanship and know-hows in the MAISON D’EXCEPTIONS section – now in its eighth edition, as well as sourcing solutions under PREMIÈRE VISION MANUFACTURING; and surface and textile designs under PREMIÈRE VISION DESIGNS.

To help industry professionals in their decisions for putting together their new collections, there will also be a programme of exclusive fashion seminars from the Première Vision fashion team to decode key trends for the Spring Summer 2020 season.  Additionally a selection of special meetings dedicated to topical issues will take place, and for those interested in new developments in the leather industry, there is a new collaboration between the French luxury leather goods brand Ephyre and Première Vision Accessories.  These are just a few of the highlights.

All photos from the February 2018 Premiere Vision Paris show by Lucia Carpio.

Première Vision Paris to highlight close association between sport and fashion this September

PREMIÈRE VISION PARIS: SPORT GAINS GROUND 

AT PREMIÈRE VISION PARIS:  A FIRST- EVER SPORT & TECH SECTOR, INFORMATIVE FORUM, AND EXCLUSIVE PROGRAMME!  

"From mass market to luxury houses, everyone needs sports,"
says Pascal Monfort, fashion consultant of sport and
lifestyle founder of Trends Marketing REC agency.
Photo taken at Premiere Vision Paris 2017.
Photo © Lucia Carpio  

The association between sport and fashion has never been closer.  Today thanks to new technology and innovation, functional performance is integrated into fashion and textiles development.

Thus in the next edition of the fashion and textiles fair Première Vision Paris, due to take place 19 – 21 September at Villepinte, Paris, the show will dedicate new spaces to highlight sport and technical innovations on offer from exhibitors, to assist ready-to-wear brands looking for innovative products to develop their high-performance fashion pieces.

Fashion and sports are closely associated.
Photo from Premiere Vision Paris 2017.
Photo © Lucia Carpio 

The new spaces will include a dedicated fashion decoding system, and a specific conference programme.

Trade visitors and industry professionals should look out for:-
• A SPORT & TECH sector in the heart of Hall 6 at Première Vision Fabrics.
• A SPORT & TECH trail available on the show's mobile app available to download
• A SPORT & TECH forum (formerly the Tech Focus Forum).
• A dedicated program of conferences in the SPORT & TECH forum, moderated by Pascal Monfort, founder and director of the Trends Marketing REC agency.

Monsieur Monfort, a notable fashion consultant specializing in sport & lifestyle, acknowledges that the communion between sport and fashion has reached its maturity and all areas are affected.

"From mass market to luxury houses, everyone needs sports, and they take real risks if they try and give it up. Refusing to integrate sneakers into a collection today is almost dangerous.  You can also see that a sports spirit is mixed in with fashion too," he said in an interview with Première Vision Paris.

"Yes, and the entire sports world has been summoned. Athletes walked straight into the fashion universe. They sit in the front row of the runway shows. Their reach is immense and covers all parts of the world, far more than celebrities.

"In addition, sporting events also dictate fashion calendars with, for example, the creation of capsule collections for soccer’s World Cup or the America’s Cup.  This has transformed the needs of brands. 

Premiere Vision Paris 2017.  Photo © Lucia Carpio 

M. Monfort continues: "The new generation of artistic directors in major houses like to work with technical fabrics and materials that previously caused no excitement for people outside of the sports world. We used to want comfortable materials. Now they also have to be efficient and ultra-technical."

The complete interview can be found on the Première Vision website and in the Cloud of Fashion Newspaper #3.

Paris Federation of High Fashion and Premiere Vision trade fairs to join forces to support young fashion talents.

Top quality fabrics are key to the creation of high fashion.  Thus it has come as welcome news that two top French companies responsible for promoting world class fashion materials and quality creative designs should join hands for a valuable cause, with the common goal of bolstering Paris’s position as fashion capital of the world.

Première Vision February 2018 held at Parc Des Expositions, Villepinte, Paris.
 Photo © by Lucia Carpio.

An agreement has been made between the Fédération de la Haute Couture de La Mode and Première Vision - the two leading companies in Paris which share common goals that focus on the international developments of their trade events; a support for creative fashion and young designers and a strong stand and engagement regarding the fashion industry’s key structuring issues, such as Fashion Technology and Responsible Creation.

 Designs SS 2018 by Ziad Nakad
shown at Paris Haute Couture Fashion Week.
Photo: Kirsty Sparow / Getty Images for Ziad Nakad

The agreement, which took effect on 1 January 2018 and announced on 15th February 2018 at the conclusion of the latest edition of Première Vision trade fair,  is aimed at strengthening the existing close links between the two companies, with the goal of supporting young creative companies, providing them with training and helping them develop creative and innovative fashion.

This partnership is structured around 3 main areas, according to the announcement:
• Paris World Fashion capital
Developing a programme of initiatives and joint lobbying efforts with the international community and its institutions to enhance Paris attractivity.
• Innovation accelerating the development of Fashion Tech and its players thanks to the first major and dedicated platform: the WEARABLE LAB, a key new development of Première Vision.
• Young Creative talent - supporting the future of creative fashion of young designers and companies selected by the Fédération de la Haute Couture de la Mode during the Paris Fashion Week®.
Première Vision will in turn support the young designers at participation at their trade fairs, specifically in the DESIGNERS APPARTMENT and NEW NOW for emerging brands in their search for creative materials - fabrics, leathers, components - and partners to manufacture their collections.

New denim fabrics catering to consumers' demand for better fit and eco -friendly qualities

Denim Première Vision Paris, 14th to 15th November 2017

Come Mid-November, the textile and fashion industry’s best known denim producers will be showcasing their latest collections and developments at Denim Première Vision Paris , which will take place at the Paris Event Center, Porte de la Villette, from 14th to 15th November 2017.

Exhibitors that present their new fabric qualities and novel developments have the discerning consumer at the heart of their innovations.

Hyosung's Xplay creora® Fit2 with Bossa

Korean company Hyosung, believed to be the largest elastane producer in the world, are to promote their new Xplay collection with creora® Fit2 in partnership with Bossa, one of Turkey’s largest integrated textile companies.

With production facilities in Adana,  Bossa (just celebrated 66 years of innovation and leadership) offers high quality products and services in its range of yarn, dyeing, weaving, and denim finishing processes.

“Our   reputation   was built   on  innovation  and  delivering unique consumer value.  Hyosung’s creora Fit2  has allowed us to create   the  Xplay  bi-stretch   collection   for   the   most flattering yet comfortable fitting denim” according to Mrs Müge Tunceren, Product   Development  &  Marketing Manager of Bossa.

“We are targeting brands & retailers who want to   enhance   consumer   loyalty   through   better   fit   and superior comfort.


Hyosung’s creora Fit2  is a proprietary  technology, using a  creora®  yarn for 360 -degree stretch, offering sleek and flattering fit.

“We developed creora® Fit2 4 way stretch to meet consumer’s needs, looking for better fit  and a flattering  silhouette.”   commented  David   Jang,   creora® ‘s  Marketing   Manager   for   denim.
“We partnered with Bossa to develop the next generation of denim as consumers will realize its value  as soon as they start wearing it.”

VICUNHA TEXTIL 

VICUNHA TEXTIL 

Another exhibitor is is Brazilian denim company VICUNHA TEXTIL which is focusing on performance fabrics that add value to create flexibility for the consumer.

Anticipating the continuous popularity of an active lifestyle, demanding products that offer versatility  between  office  and  leisure  Vicunha Textil is offering a new range of denim qualities for Spring- Summer 2019.

The EVER WHITE range offers sustainable  water  based  stain  resistant  finish  on  3  white  articles: the  finish  is ZDHC approved and non-fluorinated so fits perfectly into the sustainable ethics of VICUNHA.

VICUNHA TEXTIL 

The collection ranges from the compact appearance of ‘Comaneci’ to the heavier characterful twill of ‘colour jeans stretch’.

VICUNHA TEXTIL 

The ECO RECYCLE range offers recycled yarn of various weights in rigid and stretch, produced by using reduced  water, reclaimed  energy and  minimal resources in BCI cotton that supports the growing concern of the customer for a sustainable approach to fashion.

The robust new article  ‘Outlander’  underlines  VICUNHA’s  continuing  commitment  to  sustainability  whilst maintaining a classic true denim appearance.

Additionally, soft touch fabrics aimed mostly at the ladieswear market offer a range of denim and non denim  options  with special  finishes  and  a  luxurious  touch.






Images: creora® / Bossa and VICUNHA

Paris Textile trade fairs report record attendance

As today's retailers continue their discussion and debates over the importance of bricks and mortar retailing as opposed to the increased popularity of online trading, trade fairs catered for the textile and fashion industry that offer face-to-face interactions are proving their continued relevance for conducting business.

As organisers at Messe Frankfurt France have reported this week, European fashion brands remain very keen on attending their recently held trade exhibitions, namely TEXWORLD and TEXWORLD DENIM  PARIS, APPAREL SOURCING, AVANTEX, SHAWLS & SCARVES – The ACCESSORIES SHOW-CASE, (the shows focusing on textiles, materials, components, trimmings and manufacturing for the fashion and accessories industry), have recorded 13.9% more visitors than the show held in September 2016, to the tune of 15,473 visitors in total.

According to Michael Scherpe, President of Messe Frankfurt France, the record turnout at these fairs, held at Le Bourget, Paris from 18 to 21 September 2017,  was "unexpected": after two years of lacklustre performance, buyers were in need of renewal and a change in fashion codes; the outlook was proactive and buyers were drawn to new products, he said.

There was a sharp increase of 15% in attendance and the top 5 countries that sent buyers and trade visitors included France, the United Kingdom, Spain, Italy and Turkey respectively. The ranking that was identical to that of September 2016, with strong growth for all except France, which remained unchanged.  Germany came in 6th position, up by 18.7%, followed by Belgium up by 4.8%. 

“We found the September 2017 show to be extremely busy. From the very first day of the show, there was a wind of change blowing through the shows. (There was) A fresh appetite for the industries of fashion. Global ready-to-wear firms were certainly present, ready to get down to serious and enthusiastic business at the stands. Exhibitors welcomed the attendance, even from the European luxury sector. The same goes for the return by Americans (+19,38)” says Michael Scherpe, President of Messe Frankfurt France. 

The organisers pointed out that the joint trade fairs' artistic backdrops, the segmentation of the shows, and the scheduling of fashion shows and seminars along with the wide ranging exhibits all helped to enrich the experience of visitors and demonstrated that the show was open and appealing to all fashion brands.

On the "Small Quantities" circuit, large international luxury companies were set side-by-side with major global ready-to-wear brands, including young designs.  The quality of the materials was one of the discoveries welcomed by visitors.

China (with the largest contingent of weavers at Texworld Paris) was one of the main attractions, as confirmed by Zhang Tao, the Secretary General of CCIPT TEX. The improvement in the business models of domestic firms, as advocated by the Chinese government, aims to continue working towards genuine fashion products, to develop technical innovation and to emphasise sustainable development, said Mr Tao at a press conference.

At the “From Workshop to Shop” exhibition, organised by the Chinese government under the auspices of the CCIPT TEX, some 30 ensembles from 10 Chinese ready-to-wear brands were arranged around a space that, using virtual reality, immersed the visitor in the production sites. These brands for women’s and men’s ready-to-wear: Aiyimei, Upper , Bosideng, Hodo, Bridge Group, Dragon Silk, Heyi, Nikky, Top Garment, Sankei, Renoir and Yinchuan Binhe Ruyi, are already established in China and, are using the trade fair as a springboard to extend their presence on the world market.  A display of ever-more specialist skills from these 12 clothing manufacturers can also be seen at the show.

One of the highlights in the ELITE segment, an area dedicated to firms offering a wide range of tailored services, was the demonstration by a specialist attired in traditional Chinese brocades woven by hand using the traditional method of the Tujia ethnic group from the Chinese regions of Hunan and Hubei .

Upscaling was widely adopted at stands representing Turkish weavers, while the a wide range of cotton and embroidery from India was on offer, as well as quality prints from South Korea, the comprehensive offer, even technical products from Indonesian exhibitors all drew visitors’ interest. Creativity was the overall achievement recognised at TEXWORLD PARIS, said the organisers. 

Texworld Denim was a new addition this season, with nearly 80 exhibitors for materials and clothing production to celebrate its grand opening.  The area allowed makers of fabrics and manufacturers in one area to make contact and to network. 
Another area Business Beyond Borders, a partnership that fosters business contacts between players in the textile and clothing industry and small manufacturing firms, set up by Eurochambres, also met with resounding success, said organisers. Some 200 meetings were held in the dedicated space involving 258 companies from 42 countries.   
Three conferences and round table discussions took place at TEXWORLD PARIS: the sector for future clothing, Ex-aequo, the trends for autumn/winter 18/19, new technologies and new skills.

Dates for the next TEXWORLD, Avantex, Apparel Sourcing, Shawls and Scarves and TEXWORLD DENIM: 11, 12, 13 & 14 February 2018 Paris Le Bourget.

Photos: from Texworld / © Lucia Carpio 2017 

Lenzing launches EcoVero™ - new standard in eco-responsible viscose

Lenzing introduced their EcoVero™ viscose fibres to the global textile and fashion industry at the international Premiere Vision Paris show in September 2017.

Acknowledging that the fashion industry requires more transparency, while consumers today expect responsible retailers and brands to know their supply chains and be able to trace product origins, the Austrian company - Lenzing - a stock exchange-listed cellulose fibres manufacturer - has announced the launch of a new standard brand - EcoVero™  - to set the new benchmark in viscose fibres.

Garments made of Lenzing™ EcoVero™ on show at Premiere Vision Paris in September 2017.

With a special manufacturing system, Lenzing can identify Lenzing™ EcoVero™ fibres in the final garment, long after the textile processing and conversion steps have been completed.  This ability means that retailers and brands can rest assure that the eco-responsible viscose fibers used in their garments can be verified and authenticated as the original , and not just any generic viscose that might not be in line with their sustainability goals. 

Lenzing CCO, Robert van de Kerkhof said in a press conference held at the Premiere Vision international textile fair held in Paris in September that for too long consumers have been concerned with environmental threats raised in the so-called "dirty fashion" report, and other issues such as marine litter, pollution and waste, growing water scarcity, accelerating climate change have affected consumer confidence.

Lenzing VP of Textile, Amit Gautam, added that value chain transparency is a trend seen not only in the textile industry but also in the food industry.  While consumers' awareness of the environment is increaing, they are more and more interested in the origin of the products they buy.  

Lenzing™ EcoVeroTM fibres set a new industry standard in sustainable viscose based on the use of these sustainable wood sources (FSC® or PEFC® certified) and an ecological production process with significantly lower emissions and water impacts than conventional viscose.

With this special identification technology for Lenzing™ EcoVero™ fibres, Lenzing provides a one-of-its-kind solution for the fashion industry and its supply chain to respond to consumer demands for reliable visibility of product origins that can be traced back to the fibre, said Lenzing's Gautam.  He said Lenzing enforces strict environmental standards during viscose production and has invested heavily over the years to achieve eco-resposible production processes.  Lenzing™ EcoVero™ fibres, which are made from wood that comes from sustainable forestry plantations,  are certified with the EU Ecolabel, a world-leading environmental manufacturing standard which is awarded only to products that have a significantly lower net environment impact to comparable products in the market.

Well known retailers are teaming up with Lenzing to advance their sustainability strategies with traceable Lenzing™ EcoVero™ fibres.

For one Scandinavian retailer, Gina Tricot, Lenzing™ EcoVero™ fibres are the solution for viscose fibres.   Fashion photos shown here are examples from their current collection.

Gina Tricot's Brand Director Anna Appelqvist (pictured here) said at the Lenzing press conference in Paris, "Supply chain transparency is getting to be for us more and more important as customers want to know which kind of material is used for their garments. 

"As viscose is a very important fibre for our womenswear range, the new identification technology from Lenzing used in EcoVero™ fibres will mean we will have full supply chain transparency and our customers will welcome that and can be assured that they are buying eco-responsible viscose garments", she said adding that they are launching new T-shirts with this special EcoVero fibres this autumn. 

Another retailer from Sweden, Lindex are also considering to take Lenzing™ EcoVero™ fibres into their collection. "EcoVero™ fibres show concern for the origin of raw material as well as having a reduced environmental impact in the production process. We hope that this initiative will drive the development towards producing more sustainable viscose in the industry", explains Production Sustainability Manager Anna-Karin Dahlberg.

Lenzing's initiative is also supported by the German brand ARMEDANGELS, as its CEO Martin Höfeler had commented that as a radically responsible fashion brand this is a great match for them and they are excited to be working with Lenzing to include EcoVero™ in their future product range.