Carlota Barrera's "The Matador and the Fisherman" debut menswear collection

Spanish designer Carlota Barrera explores a dialogue between the purpose of beauty in the matador costume with its marked silhouette in contraposition to the practicality of fishermen's attire in her first menswear collection.

Carlota's love for craftsmanship shone through her use of different manual techniques in the collection. It's a way of stating the important role of these crafts in the Spanish tradition, nowadays in danger of disappearing.

Entitled "The Matador and the Fisherman", the presentation was held on July 12th 2018 as part of the Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Madrid summer 2019 show.

The designer played out the concept of masculinity versus femininity, with a sense of serene beauty on a strong silhouette. The colours have been taken from the soil and the sea, according to Carlota: earth, blue, green, red, ivory.  

The ensembles boldly featured detailed embroidery of flowers, corals and seaweed morphed into abstract motifs ornamenting traditional Spanish tailoring updated with modern techniques of design and making.

Concentrating on natural fibres and leather work in this collection, the designer works with a number of Spanish artisans such as Steve Mono for shoes made of Ubrique leather, Javier Sánchez Medina known for reviving traditional basket weaving using natural materials, such as bamboo, straw, wicker, fibre, and rattan, and Anónima by CM for hand embroidery.

Inspired by the confrontation of the man against the beast, the collection questioned which of the two embodies each role: on one hand, through the Spanish tradition of bullfighting, and on the other with the work of fishermen who fight against storms and marine beasts.

Born in northern Spain, Carlota Barrera was trained at the prestigious Central Saint Martins and Instituto Europeo di Design. She also recently completed her studies with the Master in Menswear at the London College of Fashion and developed her professional skills working with the renowned designer Carmen March.

Lamborghini previews Spring-Summer 2019 at Milan Men's Fashion Week

What could form a better team – fast, stylish cars and stylish clothing for the fashionable man of status.

Collezione Automobili Lamborghini presentation of its Spring-Summer 2019 menswear collection during Milan Men's Fashion Week 2018 on June 16, 2018 in Milan, Italy.
(All Photos by Stefania M. D'Alessandro/Getty Images for Lamborghini)

On the occasion of Milano Moda Uomo fashion week held in the Italian historical city last week (15 – 18 June) the luxury sports car brand Lamborghini previewed their 2019 Spring Summer Menswear collection in the historic Palazzo Gavazzi at 23 Via Montenapoleone.

In the unique setting of the courtyard a Huracán Performante and a Huracán RWD Coupé formed the perfect setting for the clothing collection.

The 2019 Spring Summer Collection features the sartorial expertise of the Sant’Agata Bolognese brand combined with the technological know-how as well as the passion for detail of the Lamborghini team responsible for the creation of every single item.

The result is a contemporary top-quality menswear collection delivering a total look that encapsulates the brand’s unique concepts: informal luxury, futuristic approach and designer of experiences.

Design and brand identity are the essence of the Collezione Automobili Lamborghini 2019 Spring Summer Collection, whose must-have items share the same style codes of the Lamborghini super sports cars.

Note the SuperLight Trench in breathable windproof and waterproof blue technical fabric, featuring hexagonal-pattern lining, under-collar, and quilted sleeves echoing the Urus seat stitching motif.

Another is the Techno Camo Blouson in jacquard nylon with exclusive Lamborghini camouflage graphics a mat-glossy finish fabric, and a bold 3D motif delivering a highly dynamic effect.

There’s the iconic Supercar Jacket in supple back leather with hexagonal stitching on the elbows is a must-have essential for fast driving enthusiasts to enjoy a Lamborghini super sports car or, why not, a newly restored Miura out of the Lamborghini Polo Storico inaugurated last year.

Collezione Automobili Lamborghini continues its special partnerships with Enzo Bonafè for handcrafted shoes, Hettabretz for leather jackets, Intertrade Group for fragrance creations, with Mizuno for lifestyle and running shoes, with Swiss Prestige Cosmetics for cosmetics, and with TecknoMonster for high-end carbon fibre luggage brand.

Also worth noting is the Khaki Cotton Jacket with visible stitching and sartorial details evocative of super sports car design and hexagonal-pattern lining. Also complementing the total look are sweaters and polos with the URUS #sincewemadeitpossible claim embroidered on the left shoulder or under the collar; jacquard Mako cotton t-shirts and polos with hexagonal pattern;  aluminum colour cotton chinos and five-pocket khaki trousers in cotton with inlay stitching creating a triple Y motif forming the iconic Lamborghini hexagon.

Also on display was the limited edition P5X triathlon bike co-branded with Cervélo along with Lamborghini's Authentic Living furniture line created in collaboration with Riva 1920, a company specializing in the production of solid wood design furniture,  and designed by star-architect Karim Rashid.  

The new furniture range includes the Klip desk, the Finesse bookcase, the Klutch chair, the Speed table, the Dynamik divan and the latest Inkline and Rivar sideboards; all characterized by sinuous elegant design boasting superior craftsmanship and the finest natural and authentic materials, such as solid walnut wood and black leather.

All Photos by Stefania M. D'Alessandro/Getty Images for Lamborghini.

From sportswear to made-to-measure attire, Britain’s gents outperformed ladies in the realm of fashion.

Father’s Day will soon be upon us and as London Fashion Week taking hold in the capital these few days, the latest menswear research from Mintel reveals interesting fashion facts about the nation’s dedicated followers of fashion. 

From their love of sportswear to made-to-measure attire, last year Britain’s gents outperformed their female counterparts in the realm of fashion, according to Mintel's recent study.

The UK men’s clothing market grew by an estimated 3.5% in 2017 to reach a dapper £15.0 billion, as sales of menswear outperformed sales of womenswear. Nevertheless, menswear remains around half the size of the womenswear market which is valued at £28.4 billion, accounting for 26% of total clothing sales.

Making good strides, Mintel forecasts that menswear will grow by a stylish 11% between 2018 and 2022 to reach £17.1 billion. In 2018 alone, men’s clothing sales will grow by an estimated 2.9% to reach £15.4 billion.

When it comes to splashing the cash on fashion, men are proving to be the biggest spenders. Over half (53%) of men spent £50 or over on their last shopping trip, compared to only 39% of women. Male shoppers (18%) are also significantly more likely than women (12%) to have spent over £100.

Looking for the perfect fit, half (49%) of Britain’s male shoppers are interested in getting clothes tailored to their body shape. This comes as a third (33%) of men have returned clothes because they don’t fit well.

Proving quality counts, men are more likely than women to be prepared to spend more on quality clothes that last, with 70% of male shoppers agreeing with this, compared to 64% of female shoppers. The  importance of buying quality clothes rises to 76% of men aged 16-34.

Men are increasingly shopping around for clothing, with supermarkets and online-only retailers now particularly popular. Overall, 35% of men have bought clothes from a supermarket in the last year, whilst 35% have shopped with an online-only retailer.

Looking for ‘Mr. Average’, 27% of male shoppers aged 16-24 want the clothing retailers they shop at to use models that represent the average person, this compares to 16% of men on average.

They may be rich and famous, but it seems their influence may not extend too far, as Mintel research reveals that the use of a celebrity encourages less than one in ten (8%) men to shop with a specific retailer.

Winning the race, there has been a big increase in young men buying sportswear, as 29% of men bought sports clothing in the last three months*, compared to 19% in the three months to December 2016.

Over a third (34%) of male shoppers agree that positive product reviews would encourage them to shop with a specific retailer. This rises to almost half (49%) of men aged 25-34.

UK’s fast-fashion brand QUIZ is trialling a new menswear collection

First there's QUIZ, now look out for QUIZMAN.

UK’s omni-channel fast-fashion brand – QUIZ - is launching QUIZMAN.com as a standalone ecommerce site to trial a capsule collection of fast-fashion menswear.

With the growing success of QUIZ’s occasion wear and dressy casual wear for women, QUIZ is launching its first ever capsule collection of menswear for men who want a transitional day-to-evening look.

The new capsule collection caters to the well-dressed man with a selection of items including shirts, blazers, denim, trousers and smart outfits to complement any occasion, according to the company's executives.

Sheraz Ramzan, Chief Commercial Officer at QUIZ added: “The QUIZ brand is increasingly recognised as a leading omni-channel destination for the latest looks at fantastic value prices. As the brand grows in awareness, we are exploring extending our offer to fashion conscious men with the exciting launch of this capsule collection aimed at men who want a tailored look for any occasion, whether that’s an important work meeting, a day at the races, a party or a night out. We look forward to seeing the reaction to this exciting trial.”

To support the launch of the menswear capsule collection there will be dedicated social channels where fashion savvy men can get their style inspiration and receive regular updates on the latest looks.

The collection has been overseen by QUIZMAN buyer Harry Butt, former buyer for menswear chain, Slaters.

The collection will be available online via QUIZMAN.com. 

Milan Fashion Week Autumn-Winter 2018-19: Giorgio Armani Menswear Collection / Emporio Armani Collection

Giorgio Armani Menswear Collection for Autumn-Winter 2018-19; for the man who is comfortable in his own skin.

As shown at Milan Fashion Week in January, Giorgio Armani employs freedom of expression and love of synthesis to explore an imaginary world of action and elegance, inhabited by men who are proud but gentle in their movements.

Men who dress carefully, without frivolity, and who express themselves through nonchalant gestures, in a natural dialogue between body and clothes.

The eight button double-breasted jackets with peak lapels emphasise waist and shoulders, outlining a toned physicality. 

The trousers are fluid, cargo or jogger. The long coats and high-necked bomber jackets bestow a relaxed elegance. The accessories are strong in character: sturdy boots, large, soft backpacks, and hats with earmuffs.

The research focuses on texture: luxurious but never showy, it is expressed through craft materials and processes that make surfaces soft to the touch and opaque in appearance, testament to a life already lived. 

There is a narrative inherent in the colour range: a progressive movement designed to surprise, it opens with cashmere-type muted tones and shades, before fading into light khaki, grey and, finally, solidifying into black, with unexpected touches of emerald and ruby.

Milan Fashion Week Milan Autumn-Winter 2018-19 Emporio Armani Menswear Collection

Emporio Armani Autumn-Winter 2018-19 collection has a decisive, urban spirit, with an emphasis on the idea of new elegance: precious but not frivolous.

The label is a hub of individuality that encourages everyone to be themselves; an identity which is characterised by the projection of one's own personality, finding character, strength and uniqueness in the differences in each of us.

The city wardrobe has a dynamic tone, combining the innovation of the lines with that of the materials. 

The slender and sharp silhouette is evidenced in small-shouldered, double-breasted suit jackets, worn with flowing trousers, a wool trench coat with technical buckles, and a seamless kimono-style bomber. 

The outerwear pays homage to the world of mountain hiking and outdoor activities, with curly-haired sheepskin coats and pony-effect goatskin jackets.

Surfaces are treated and processed to produce tactile effects: chenille sweaters with fade-out patterns, and jacquards with stylised trees and clouds creating a poetic camouflage-effect on sportswear; butterfly wings flutter like flowers on new tuxedos.

The palette is a dense amalgam of greys, blacks and deep blues, energised by the pure white of shirts, the cool tones of greens and blues and the metal accents of gold and bronze. 

Accessories are functional, but come in refined materials: shoes with sharp lines, and capacious handbags featuring embossed patterns.

Source/Images: beautypress/Giorgio Armani / Emporio Armani

Turning excess fabrics into sartorial luxury

British menswear brand SIR PLUS uses surplus menswear fabrics and crafts them into tailored pieces that suits formal as well as smart casual occasions.

It all started when the founder Henry Hales, noticed excess materials let out on the streets whilst walking down Jermyn St. - the London street famous for sartorial flare.

He soon decided he could use this surplus fabric to make boxers.

From this sustainable approach, the once only boxer brand is now offering collections ranging from casual to formal wear as well as various accessories.

Now, SIR PLUS sources from the UK and Europe, buying the finest surplus fabrics to make their products.

The key pieces include the Nehru Waistcoats and Jackets, featuring the distinctive mandarin collar inspired by the Indian Prime Minister Jawaharlal Nehru. The outerwear assortment is a selection of different jackets, from the utility, workman, and cotton gilet, which is a sleeveless spin on the classic bomber.

The formal wear collection, perfect for Royal Ascot and weddings, features both double and single-breasted waistcoats that come in an array of colours, some having the options of a piping finish. The new pale blue & pink waistcoats have become the most popular this season, due to customer demand, says the brand. To finish, SIR PLUS offers a range of formal trousers available in both a herringbone and a pinstripe design.

Record year for UK menswear brand Douglas spells quality tailoring is still on-trend

Smart, quality tailoring never goes out of (Men's) fashion, and in the commercial world, good style makes good business sense too when it's a family-run operation.

Such is the example set by UK menswear fashion house, Douglas & Grahame which has announced 2016 sales figures as exceptional for brand Douglas in the UK.

Reportedly, Douglas has seen consistent year on year sales growth since its launch 90 years ago, and 2016 has been no different.   Staying true to its tradition of design integrity and high standards of quality making, bosses at the family-run company are confident that 2017 is set to be another year of growth in sales.

“Our philosophy underpins changing fashions with the solid foundations of smart, quality tailoring, style and attention to detail."

The continued success of the brand can be pin-pointed to their dedicated focus on giving a voice to the vast numbers of men who still want to be stylish and on-trend when they hit their 30s and beyond, according to the firm's UK managing director Anton Jenkins.  He said: “Our philosophy underpins changing fashions with the solid foundations of smart, quality tailoring, style and attention to detail.
“We have recognised that men are more style conscious than ever and that for many men shopping is no longer perceived as a chore which is why we ensure that the stylish Douglas collections are stocked in high quality independent menswear retailers.

“We are a family business and we pride ourselves on fostering and maintaining great relationships, particularly with our stockists” Anton explained.

“We want our stockists to reflect our high quality status so we put enormous value in our day-to-day discussions with them. Their communication and feedback as the frontline of our brand is vital to the growth of Douglas.”

The company's ongoing success is proof that family-run business can be productive - contrary to a recent report by Office for National Statistics (ONS) which found that family-owned businesses and companies run by the founders- reltations tend to be substantially less productive than firms with outside owners and managers.  The ONS made this conclusion after studying management practices across more than 700 manufacturing businesses, then compared the results against the ownership of the businesses.

In its third generation of private ownership, the Finlay family continue to drive Douglas & Grahame’s future - infusing its rich history with modern design and delivering high quality, on-trend collections to an exclusive group of partners, producing clothing under a number of leading menswear brands supplied to retailers across the country from its UK headquarters in Shenstone near Lichfield.   Its state-of-the-art 250,000 square foot headquarters that include a warehousing and logistics base have a production capacity of over 1 million garments.
The company sells all of its brands through a large network of wholesale customers as well as its own e-commerce site and retail outlets, operated directly and through franchise partners.

Pure London showcases Autumn Winter 2017 trends ahead of London Fashion Week

As the fashion buying season in the UK commences and before the fashion world descends upon London Fashion Week which opens in a week's time, the Pure London trade fair showcases the styles and trends for Autumn Winter 2017 at Kensington Olympia between 12 - 14 February.

As part of the highlights of the exhibition where more than 800 exhibitors across womenswear, menswear, footwear and accessories are showcasing under one roof, daily catwalk presentations play out new everyday luxury and directional smart designs from international and British brands.

Key looks include autumn transitional designs in natural and recycled fabric to kickstart the season, while minimalist pieces offer longevity beyond the season.

Dark tones along with muted colours and feminine, deconstructed shapes are pointing to a bold modern look.  On offer are architectural influences, clean lines and utilitarian fabrics.

Look for tactile fabrics including faux furs, wools, tweed, waterproof textiles and mottled surfaces.

For mid-autumn, the colour palette is a natural one; primitive and soft colours include ochre tones, blue contrasts, muted greens and deep browns.

Heritage outdoor styles will see chunky knits, matte textures and woodland tones on sports-inspired elements for a folkloric-centred look.

For winter, there are luxe tailoring and deep majestic jewel tones in dark shades of charcoal, complemented by metallic accents for a sophisticated, sensual winter palette.

Smart materials and inventive innovations lead the way for a tech-savvy trend in line with modern lifestyle.  

Voluminous shapes and stylished details reflect the modern digital age, while minimalist and maximalist styles nod to the past, present and future with subtle period references.   

According to WGSN's director of retail and buying, Sara Maggioni, who gave an overview of the main trends of the AW17 season, the four overarching themes are Design Matters, Earthed, Nocturne and INfusion.  Natural and recyled fabrics kickstart the season, she said, with the overt use of pulped fabrics, repurposed yarns and patched denims expected among the sustainable fashion mix.  While minamalist pieces and light layers for transitional dressing are played out in muted colours, as evidenced here.

All images © Lucia Carpio 2017