Showing posts with label Paris Fashion Week. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Paris Fashion Week. Show all posts

Friday, 27 September 2019

MOOHONG SS 2020 collection interplays between femininity and masculinity.


The MOOHONG Spring/Summer 2020 collection by Seoul designer Moohong Kim shown this week in Paris shines a light on his knack for tailoring – classic menswear tailoring even, developing from a study in structural form versus deconstruction possibilities and explore a range of possibilities in asymmetrical cuts. 



Although the collection has been described as an “inter-subjective experiment to create an ideological project which incorporates fashion as a means of artistic and social expression”, it is a very wearable range inter-playing the contrast between femininity and masculinity.  

Using  multiple shapes, the collection is built on a layering and transformative format, which answers very well to today’s consumers’  affinity with personalisation and individualism. 


Moohong uses classic menswear fabrics such as wool for his oversized jackets and exaggerated pin-striped suits and tailored separates, along with cotton shirts and silks, accented with folds, drapery and asymmetry.





Thursday, 21 March 2019

DDP streetwear label in collaboration with Neith Nyer in Paris: A clashing of universes or a cohesive love affair?

The French streetwear label DDP's new AW2020 collection was conceived with the collaboration of Neith Nyer,  and unveiled at Paris Fashion Week in February.
Described as "a brutal car crash with tender lovemaking",  the inaugural collaboration was designed with the intensity of a clashing of patterns, layering of various proportions, marked by floral prints and madras checks,  fleece, knits and leather, oversized sportswear shapes, puffa jackets, along with drawstring detailing taken from active sports.   The collection carries this spirit of accumulation, searching for cohesion between clashing universes.  



The new collection isn’t just about two brands working together, it is an attempt to create an aesthetic that blurs the lines between the new and the old, luxury and streetwear, a genre that Neith Nyer creative director Francisco Terra does very well, working closely with DDP Founder Laurent Caillet and their shared obsession with flea markets have influenced their ideas. "We thought of a digger," explains Francisco. "She's a girl who obsessively bargains, she runs from the club early morning to get the best deals at the garage sales."


The creative process guiding this collection reflects the same dynamics: through their research, the designers excavated hundreds of DDP archive pieces, some of them dating from the mid 90s. (DDP was launched in 1995 by LAURENT CAILLET with partner DIDIER MAUROUX.)



Individually, the pieces are commercial and adaptable.  It's in the use of fabrics in an unconventional, almost perverted way that provokes.  Fleece is treated to look moth-eaten, then employed to craft byzantine corsets and bizarre flowers. Padded nylon is the base of mini skirts while knitted jackets are spray painted.

The cartoonesque shoes were done in collaboration with Naomi Hille, while Florence Tetier designed this seasons jewelry, a cosmic assembly of iridescent bubbles.

The collection is under the auspices of the iconic figure of the eggman, one of the most memorable visual elements of DDP, whose face is burned on jersey and hand-sewn on hoodies. This character, revived for the collection, serves as the symbol of « Neith Nyer and DDP », a brand that stands for playfulness and inclusiveness. 

Tuesday, 9 October 2018

GAMUT collective unites five fashion designers show a different reality, an original way of creating.

At a glance some of the clothes look familiar, as something we already own, or what people wear in the street.  Elsewhere, they are quirky and conceptual.  That’s the beauty of these clothes from the GAMUT collective which unites five fashion designers and friends, all graduates of La Cambre (School of Art and Design) in Belgium. 


Their first collection, presented on 28 September 2018 at La Station – Gare des Mines in Paris, initiates a thoughtful dialogue between the respective universes and fields of expertise of its members.

A  visit  to  the www.collectifgamut.com site  opens  the  door  to  an  organic  labyrinth  that  randomly  produces  collages,  layers  of  images,  confrontations  of  scales,  themes  and  moods.

Here,  you  see  photos  of  the  clothing  being  manufactured,  pictures  of  everyday  life,  taken  in  the  street,  at  night,  during  the  day,  on  the  go  or  at  home.  Mixed  with  this  raw  material  are  shots  of  the  first  GAMUT  collection,  taken  regularly  each  month  during  the  process  of  their  creation.  Neither  advertisements  nor  tools  of  seduction,  these  images  are  simply  reflections  of  reality.

On a single silhouette, we can make out an interpretation of a traditional suit, invaded by technical elements and worn with GAMUT top-stitched cowboy boots and a travel bag crafted from recuperated scarves, which we also find on a ruffled skirt or trousers.

The personal visions of each member of the collective coexist and converse in a coherent wardrobe in which the suit is revisited in several forms, sometimes organic, sometimes conceptual, deconstructed, radical or meticulous…

Each member’s know-how is fully exploited to give life to an open wardrobe where the pieces navigate between men and women in a permanent movement that announces a new, spontaneous aesthetic in contrast with current trends.
The  collage  format  also  makes  its  mark  on  the  collective’s  choice  of  materials:  traditional  woollen  cloth  with  tennis  stripes,  featured  in  the  entire  collection,  comes  head  to  head  with  technical  waterproof  canvas  and  jerseys  printed  with  black  and  white  photos  of  the  striped  suit  cloth  from  the  rest  of  the  collection,  worn  on  models.



On an oversized silhouette,  the  word  GAMUT  is  splashed  across  dresses,  tops  and  shorts.  A  line  of  knitwear  in  coloured  cashmere,  with  the  same  construction  principles  as  the  rest  of  the  collection,  adds  a  radiant  touch  to  the  overall  work.

Somewhere  between  quirkiness  and  realism,  the  GAMUT  silhouettes  juxtapose  extremely  rigorous  and  understated  pieces  with  sparkling  gloves  or  ultra-large  visor  caps.

Trained  in  the  Belgian  style,  the  members  of  GAMUT  tweak  the  hallmarks  of  traditional  clothing,  from  a  man’s  waistcoat  to  an  evening  gown,  from  a  tailored  coat  to  a  white  shirt,  by  way  of  a  technical  parka  and  a  rustic  wool  jumper.

The  collection  is  presented  on  a  cast  of  models  in  line  with  the  collective  and  La  Station  –  Gare  des  Mines,  which  was  covered  in  red  plastic  for  the  occasion.




This  inclusive  sample  of  today’s  youth  projects  energetic  and  powerful  attitudes  that  correspond  to  the  ambition  of  GAMUT:  to  show  a  different  reality,  an  original  way  of  creating,  a  field  of  possibilities.   And it works as one collective, cohesive collection.

GAMUT  thanks  the  Antwerp  brand  Adult,  which  lent  three  shoe  models  for  the  runway  show  on  28  September  2018.  The  rest  of  the  accessories  (high  and  low  cowboy  boots,  backpacks,  travel  bags,  caps,  belts)  were  developed  by  GAMUT.

Photos by Etienne Tordoir / Info: Autrement PR

Monday, 1 October 2018

Adeline Ziliox’s “Crystal Skin” collection unveiled at Paris Fashion Week

"What is Inside, See it Outside"

Where the clothing conceals the body of the woman, the designer Adeline Ziliox unveils it with her "Crystal Skin" Collection.

Transparency assumed, body unveiled and femininity affirmed, here is the DNA of the Collection.

The technical materials, which are often found in the work of the designer, like neoprene, 3D mesh fabrics reinforce this line ultra-feminine, elegant and with streetwear inspirations.

And now PVC confirms the contemporary and avant-garde look of Adeline Ziliox's Spring/Summer 2019 collection.

All photos by GREG ALEXANDER

French frou-frou thrills. Roger Vivier: Spring/Summer 2019 Presentation During Paris Fashion Week


Feminine, chic, elegant.  So thrillingly French. What’s not to like even for the woman who has everything; there’s always room for more footwear and frou-frou fun, if they are as desirable as  Gherardo Felloni’s new Spring/Summer 2019 Collection for the luxury Parisian footwear and accessories brand  Roger Vivier.

The new collection presented during Paris Fashion Week a few days ago is a “cinematic homage to Parisian Distinction”. 
Under the banner of Hotel Vivier, it is indeed an ode to women, carrying the essence of the brand in all their diversity and beauty, that started with a journey of exploration into the archives of the Maison, to inspire a new creative vocabulary for the Vivier woman.

Note the sparkle of the bejewelled buckles, the strategically placed feather, the ornate bows and the folds of the rose, from slippers to the kitten heel, the gamut of jewel and candy colours, and the matching or mix-and-match handbags.

According to Gherardo Felloni the creative director of the Parisian brand, women are like flowers in a garden - romantic but sometimes abandoned – where many varieties have taken their rightful place, in freedom.

But equally enticing for the modern woman are the sneakers and handy cute knapsacks that receive the same feminine treatment.  That very imagination and rich variety of women are at the heart of a living and breathing world for the presentation of the collection.
“Hotel Vivier is a place like no other, where women reveal all the richness, complexity, beauty and intensity of their personalities. Just as I went on a journey of discovery over the years to capture their many facets, my guests will make their own discoveries at every turn and inside every room, meeting the characters who inspire me every day.”  – Gherardo Felloni

Stepping through the doors of the ‘Hotel Vivier’ is like walking into a sequence of scenes from a film. At the intersection of fiction and reality, the experience feels both familiar and unexpected. It is a fascinating place where visitors are invited to discover the world of Roger Vivier.

According to their press release, Gherardo Felloni creative director of Roger Vivier believes that the essence of Roger Vivier can be distilled into three fundamental pillars: silhouette, colour and exclusivity.

Each one is articulated in new ways. The distinctive silhouette is enhanced by a low kitten heel creating a modern look with couture flair. When it comes to colour, Felloni never shies away from it. The rich colour palette carried through the collection is not just a bold style statement, it is a powerful vehicle to project the joie-de-vivre and positivity that have always been part of Roger Vivier’s DNA.

Exclusivity, the final essential ingredient articulated by the designer in his collection is a nod to Monsieur Vivier’s creations, unique works of art commissioned for special occasions that showcased exceptional craftsmanship, unbridled creativity, elaborate shoes embellished with feathers, crystals, knotted threads.

At the heart of the collection, the Très Vivier creations continue a long tradition of unapologetic elegance, displaying the same head-turning qualities as the legendary pumps that took the fashion world by storm in the 1960s.

The large square buckle in polished metal pays tribute to the aesthetics of the original pump, while a myriad of materials and textures brings Vivier sophistication, and the new Très Vivier bag with an oversized buckle is designed to be perfectly paired with the pumps.
The Très Vivier Strass Pump
All photos by Francois Durand/Getty Images For Roger Vivier - taken at the Roger Vivier Presentation Spring/Summer 2019 during Paris Fashion Week on September 27, 2018 in Paris, France. (Photos 

Sunday, 12 August 2018

Jewellery for dramatic effects from BaroQco at Paris Fashion Week

Forget minimalism and austerity if you want to take the cue from jewellery designers Imelda and Eduardo whose label BaroQco is best associated with the notion that to be unique you have to be different.

Presenting their Haute Couture jewellery creations this month at Paris Fashion Week for Fall/Winter 2018-19, the designers celebrate their Dutch, Chinese Indonesian and Portuguese roots and embrace diversity as the foundation to their inspiration and creation.

The name of their label, BaroQco comes hails from the Baroque era when European cultural movement takes the turn from simplicity to lively and exuberant detailing.

According to the designers, BaroQco has a unique grandeur with an ability to surprise while achieving a sense of awe. Imelda and Eduardo started to create jewellery as they were looking for a tiara or crown for their wedding day and the search led them to creating their own and from there they expanded the range to include necklaces, cuffs and bracelets, and earrings.


Master painters like Vincent van Gogh and Pierre-Auguste Renoir inspire the designing couple.
« AS WE EMBRACE THE IMPRESSIONISM, WE STRIVE NOT ONLY FOR THE OUTER BUT ESPECIALLY FOR THE INNER-BEAUTY. IN OUR CREATIONS WE WANT TO PUSH BOUNDARIES OF ARTISTIC TECHNIQUES. AND THEREFORE THE BAROQCO IS A BOOK WITHOUT AN END. »
The stones used include opal and Swarovski crystals, and all the metalwork and gold are nickel free, the usage of non toxic plating to makes the jewellery more ecofriendly.